The story of the jacket to be worn by Harrison Ford and his stunt doubles in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom has a few interesting twists.

First was the selection of Anthony Powell as the Wardrobe Designer and Joanna Johnston as the Assistant Costume Supervisor for Temple of Doom. (Take note of Johnston’s involvement here because her name will come up again in the future of Indiana Jones’ production history.) Powell was responsible for all wardrobe used in the production. He had previous experience working with Raiders costumer Bermans and Nathans (BN).

For Temple of Doom, Lucasfilm licensed the jacket before production began for the purposes of product placement. As a result, the design was effectively given to the license holder and not the wardrobe designer. While several companies were approached, one had some limited experience with the design—Cooper. If you’re wondering why the original jacket maker for Raiders, Peter Botwright, was not brought back for the sequel, according to Botwright himself, his company had worked on a Bond film between Raiders and Temple of Doom. This went against their agreement with BN to not take film work without BN’s involvement, so Botwright was out of the running for Temple of Doom.

Neal Cooper previously claimed to have submitted prototype jackets to Deborah Nadoolman for Raiders. While this could not be substantiated in any way beyond anecdotal recollections by David Hack, founder of U.S. Wings, the design used by Cooper exhibited a remarkably detailed knowledge of the jacket design at the time Deborah Nadoolman left Los Angeles and before Peter Botwright created his final design.

Cooper’s design was virtually identical to the cloth Raiders mock-up made by Western Costumes (WC). The Cooper design had the short bi-swing pleat opening, smaller pockets, and slightly lower shoulder yoke design of the WC mock-up. This mock-up was, at the time of pre-production on Temple of Doom, in the property of Berman and Nathans. Ford was fitted by Cooper several months before pre-production began and jackets were prepared.

Now for some interesting twists on some old stories. Noel Howard consistently stated that to the best of his knowledge, the Temple of Doom jackets were supplied by a French company. He was also always very clear that he did not know the name of the company, but that he knew for a fact that Peter Botwright had nothing to do with supplying jackets for Temple of Doom. it was determined that they were arranged via a well established product placement and promotions company in Los Angeles.

Powell was not given the opportunity to make real design changes to these jackets like he would on Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade five years later. Though he had some more basic issues with Temple of Doom jackets. He did not care for the oversized brass zippers with the pulls on “the wrong side.” The zips were removed and replaced with smaller, left-handed nickel zips. The d-rings would not hold the side straps, so they were replaced with 1” equestrian headcollar buckles (military-style with double-roller spikes rather than prongs) obtained from Abbey Saddlery.

Powell had another problem once Ford arrived on set. The jackets were too big. During the time that had elapsed between Ford’s fitting by Cooper and the beginning of production, Ford had lost weight. Additionally, the jackets were lined with a heavy nylon weave that was inappropriate to the shooting location and which Ford reportedly hated. Powell attempted a solution that while unique, didn’t quite work out the way he planned. Powell’s team created a lining from cotton that did fit Ford and sewed them into 3 of the marginally larger shells. While these appeared to fit better, the armholes were too tight for Ford and he refused to wear them. As a result, Ford can be seen wearing either a Cooper (loose fitting with uncomfortable nylon lining) or Vic Armstrong’s Raiders jacket (tight, trim fit).

Reportedly, the specs of the Cooper jackets in Temple of Doom were as follows.

Length of jacket (length of storm flap)	22 3/4″
Length of nickel zipper	21″
Cargo pocket dimensions	6″ tall x 5″wide with the flap measuring 2 3/4″ down the center
Collar description	Collar edge ‘slightly rounded’
Cargo pockets placement	2.5″ from zip or storm flap and 2.5″ from bottom of jacket
Side straps placement	Bottom of straps are 5″ from the bottom of the jacket
Storm flap width	1.5″
Suggested sleeve meaurement	2″ below bottom of jacket as worn
Side strap buckles	Pronged buckles in antique brass. For added screen accuracy, do not get eyelets placed in strap, as the film jacket only had holes in the leather for the buckle prongs