Decided to go with G&B custom. Any tips/recommendations?

[Solo4114]

So, after much pondering, I decided that I'm going to pick myself up a G&B Expedition, fully custom tailored, in dark brown goatskin. They say it'll take 'em about 12 weeks or so (plus shipping time -- appx. 4-5 days), but that's alright by me. I can wait. Besides, April in Philly can still be brisk temperature-wise.

So, does anyone have any tips, recommendations, or suggestions? I have a regular tailor, so I can go to him for sizing (and actually, I need to stop by and talk to him about other stuff). That, at least, will not be a problem.

They don't seem to have a "Raiders vs. TOD vs. LC vs. KotCS" set of options and such, so I'm curious as to what they tend to do with their jacket specs, or if I should make special requests?


I figure I'll probably go with square side "rings", and I hear they do solid stitching on the straps. I'm not particularly concerned with brass vs. nickel as far as the zipper goes (I never noticed any differences in the zippers while watching the films). Aside from that...um....I dunno. Maybe under-arm gussets so the jacket still hangs properly when I move my arms. I don't plan on asking for any pre-distressing (I plan to own this jacket a LONG time and beat the tar out of it myself).

Any other things I should keep in mind? Any special considerations with G&B? I know they're supposed to run a little big with the standard sizes, but I figure by giving them custom measurements, it ought to fit me just fine. Any special discounts for letting them know the fine folks at Indygear/COW sent me their way?

[Texan Scott]

Depending on the Rep. you are working with, they sometimes alter the length of the sleeves to your specs. If you supply the length, they will get you to sign a form saying that the jacket is now custom sized, and non-returnable, but you may know that already. The other option I would suggest that is well worth it is to add a hidden snap at the bottom of the storm flap. The first one I ordered was a dark brown goat hide jacket like the one you will receive, and I'd asked them to make the pockets slightly larger than normal, and they did. G&B is quality, through and through. Gussets are usually standard issue.

[Michaelson]

Well, first of all, custom is custom, so the 'running large' folks have commented about does not apply here. (as an aside, I've NEVER had them run large, size wise, but that's just my experience with them)

Secondly, you're REALLY going to be happy with what comes your way.

Gussets are usually standard, but it's always a good idea to still mention you want them.

Confirm with them exactly what they want regarding specifications, then take THOSE specs to your tailor for proper measurement.

Agreed on the snap at the bottom of the storm flap.

Otherwise, prepare to be tickled!

Regards! Michaelson

[whipcracker]

This is one exciting project! I am excited for you! Do post pics when it comes, lots of them.
I don't recall having seen a custom Expdition before. Just what exactly can they customize I wonder besides the sizing, pocket flaps, collar size? At any rate I am sure that you will love the jacket. I think that's what G&B means Giddy and Bouncing (with joy).

[Forrest For the Trees]

Sounds great. I've stayed away from G&B only because of the sizing issue, but a made-to-measure G&B sounds like a winner. Yeah, it is a Raiders jacket, so no need for any design-related customization, but I will put in a vote for the hidden snap at the bottom of the storm flap, if you are more concerned with functionality than screen accuracy. Can't wait to see the results of this order!

[Solo4114]

I'll definitely post pics once the jacket comes in!

I was toying with the idea of the snap at the bottom. Especially given how it's been a bit windy and cold here lately, having that extra bit of protection will help.

Question: my Wested Raiders doesn't have a snap at the top. Does a standard G&B have a snap at the top? I wouldn't expect it. Is it worth adding one to the top as well? I'm not particularly concerned either way since I think that having a snap at the bottom will help keep the flap closed when I want it to), but figured I'd ask.

--EDIT--

Oh, and for the record guys, having a totally made-to-measure custom tailored jacket adds another $250 to the base price. apparently they can do some changes like "tall" sleeves on a regular body and such, and that's $98. That kicks the cost of a goat-hide Expo from $488 up to $738 for a full custom job.

[Ken]

I got an expedition custom back when they were charging much less for the privilege but I think its still probably worth it - its the best fitting Indy jacket I ever had and like others have said super durable. Even if you try to distress it its gonna be tough.

The other thing I love about them at G&B is that they have amazing customer service. I once exchanged over ten emails regarding a jacket in a single day - I challenge you to do that with some other vendors.

Ken

[Texan Scott]

You can go either way with it. It is Raiders style, so technically there were no snaps on the jacket, so that was the reason for the hidden snap at the bottom. It keeps it closed just fine. Of you can do what Nebraska S did and add them both. His are visible, like the LC jacket, or I suppose both could be hidden. Personal choice there.

[CM]

I own 3 G&B's, one an Indy. Mine have not run large and are true to size. I am a thin to medium frame.

In terms of custom options, if it were me I'd go:

Move the pocket next to the zip without the windflap about 3/4 of an inch further from the zip. The current model places the pocket too close to the zip.

Get them to run the zipper further down the jacket like the film version.

I would add facings simply because I prefer them to not having them.

I think the G&B is a sensational jacket.

I wish they would make a half-belt.

[Solo4114]

So, wait, how far down does their zip go? And I thought zipper facings were pretty standard?

[Hollowpond]

I think the G&B is a sensational jacket.

I wish they would make a half-belt.

+1 What IS up with all these jacket vendors not offering a half belt? I want one in the worst way and right now its either Magnoli or Aero, which is fine, but I wish more vendors had an off the rack version of these awesome jackets!

Travis

[CM]

I think the G&B is a sensational jacket.

I wish they would make a half-belt.

+1 What IS up with all these jacket vendors not offering a half belt? I want one in the worst way and right now its either Magnoli or Aero, which is fine, but I wish more vendors had an off the rack version of these awesome jackets!

Travis

Yes Travis, I know this is an Indy site but how great would it be to get one of our better makers to produce a good, affordable half-belt - It'd be 1950 again. And that's good enough fo rme.

[coronado3]

In Raiders, the zipper goes all the way to the bottom of the jacket and didn't have the leather facings. G&Bs expo does not have the facings per the film jacket but the zipper tends to end about an inch or inch and a half from the bottom. Not a big deal unless you are a SA fanatic.

So, wait, how far down does their zip go? And I thought zipper facings were pretty standard?

[coronado3]

Or hit the vintage clothing shops - if you live near a fairly big city!

For half-belts?

TNO makes their version of the surrogates jacket.

Milos Bisara makes one as well. In fact, for $850 I think Milos will make just about any custom jacket. Don't hang your hat on that number, but every time I ask, the price is $850...

[Solo4114]

In Raiders, the zipper goes all the way to the bottom of the jacket and didn't have the leather facings. G&Bs expo does not have the facings per the film jacket but the zipper tends to end about an inch or inch and a half from the bottom. Not a big deal unless you are a SA fanatic.

So, wait, how far down does their zip go? And I thought zipper facings were pretty standard?

Gotcha. I'm not an SA stickler, but that seems like a rather small request, so I'll raise it. Zipper facings I definitely want, having dealt with a shredded Wested liner already. I'm looking to make both the exterior AND interior of the jacket last a LONG time.

[Dr. Nebraska S.]

Solo4114: I'm looking forward to seeing your jacket! I've invested in just one leather jacket, and it's the G&B Expedition. As others have said, there are no leather facings, no snaps on the storm flap, and the zipper ends about an inch before the bottom of the jacket. But I've never had problems with the lack of facings, and I've solved the zipper-gap issue for myself: I had exterior metal snaps (pewter or "rust" colored) installed a few months later, but G&B can install hidden snaps if you request it. Personally, I like having the snaps--they close the gap between the bottom of the zipper and the bottom of the jacket, and I like to think of it as a hybrid of the functionality of the LC/CS storm flap snaps but with a Raiders' take (if that makes any sense).

Please be sure to include your photos of the finished project in our thread on G&B jackets over here, too:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48537

My G&B has become like a second skin to me--I just realized while typing that I'm even wearing it now. I've included photos of mine and my experiences with it over in that thread, as well as several others including their great examples, too.

Enjoy your project--and Dave Marshall is really a stand-up guy!

Best wishes,
Nebraska Schulte

[Solo4114]

I'll definitely post pics when I finally get it in. First thing I have to do, though, is get over to the tailor and get my measurements!

I'm not as concerned about the shorter zipper. I just noticed on my old Wested Raiders that it's the same deal -- the zipper ends about 1" from the bottom of the jacket itself. Go figure!

I'll probably add the hidden snaps for functionality's sake. Heck, if I'm customizing everything else, why not that, too? And I think I'm gonna go with the leather facings for the zip. I just like the idea of it a bit better, especially having caught my liner in the zipper before.



Man, I'm all excited about this now! Too bad I'll have to wait 12 weeks from when I order!

[Michaelson]

You'll especially like having the snaps if/when you get into cold winter winds. Nothing says 'cold' like moving air through an unprotected zipper. That's what the storm flap was made for in the first place....but if it's not secured, it's just another piece of leather out there flapping in the wind.

Regards! Michaelson

[Michaelson]

That's the joy of having a middle aged spread. That never happens.

Regards! Michaelson

[Texan Scott]

I own 3 G&B's, one an Indy. Mine have not run large and are true to size. I am a thin to medium frame.

In terms of custom options, if it were me I'd go:

Move the pocket next to the zip without the windflap about 3/4 of an inch further from the zip. The current model places the pocket too close to the zip.

Get them to run the zipper further down the jacket like the film version.

I would add facings simply because I prefer them to not having them.

I think the G&B is a sensational jacket.

I wish they would make a half-belt.

I have often wished G&B had the skin choices and textures that a few other vendors have, like naked cowhide, etc. That would really put them over the top.

[Michaelson]

They USED to when the Expedition first came out. It just wasn't cost effective, and a lot of stuff got discontinued due to low or no sales of a particular hide.

For example, the very first Expedition I ever owned was made out of deerskin.

Regards! Michaelson

[Solo4114]

Huh. A deerskin jacket. Interesting! How'd it wear/hold up?

[Texan Scott]

They USED to when the Expedition first came out. It just wasn't cost effective, and a lot of stuff got discontinued due to low or no sales of a particular hide.

For example, the very first Expedition I ever owned was made out of deerskin.

Regards! Michaelson

I remember that. You often talkedabout how the sleeves seemed to be getting longer for that particular type of skin.

[Michaelson]

Yep. Every time the jacket got warm, the sleeves stretched out at least 2 inches or more in length!

Once it cooled after being hung on a hanger, they returned to original length.

REALLY weird leather. As nice as it was, I really didn't care for that feature.

Regards! Michaelson

[Solo4114]

Ok, got my measurements yesterday after a visit to the tailor.

Another question:

What can y'all tell me about the lining of a G&B? What's the material, how thick is it, etc.? How durable is it? Should I make any requests about it?

My Wested lining is totally shredded at this point, and I felt was not well put together, nor made of particularly durable material. I have suit jacket linings that hold up WAY better.



Come to think of it...maybe I'll get some suit jacket lining from my tailor and send it to G&B!

[Forrest For the Trees]

I don't know if they do a cotton lining, but that is my preference by far on an Indy jacket. My Westeds have the cotton body and satin sleeves, which look sharp and work just fine, but I have an older Wings with all cotton lining (sleeves included) and it is my favorite. Shame that jacket doesn't fit, though. Satin and nylon linings feel a little too slick for me.

[Dr. Nebraska S.]

Doing a search on here for "Expedition jacket lining", it appears to be a nylon twill lining:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32817&hilit=expedit ... ket+lining

I really like the satiny feel of the lining, and it seems to breath just fine to me. I don't recall ever hearing anyone having problems with the lining on the Expedition tearing--but you may want to search the boards. In the past year and a half that I've had mine (which isn't all that long, but worn frequently), I've not had any problems with the lining, nor with the zipper ever getting caught in it.

Best wishes,
Nebraska Schulte

[Solo4114]

Hmm. Interesting. Their website says it's a "twill lining", but not what the material is. Guess I'll have to call and ask.

[Texan Scott]

Its a type of nylon twill, not the same as cotton twill.

[Solo4114]

Hmm...I'd be curious to see how well that stands up, and how it matches up with the liners of my suit jackets...

[Indyzane]

Its a type of nylon twill, not the same as cotton twill.

I think the nylon twill is the same that Tony used?

[Texan Scott]

It's tough stuff and breathable. Similiar to the material the TN uses. TN has three different thicknesses of lining material that they used to line their jackets, a thin, medium and thicker weight type twill.

[gladd96]

If I were doing a custom order I'd seriously consider going with a silk liner. I have no idea how durable it would be but you can't beat the feel and breathability. I thought G&B offered silk liners in one of their A2 variations but I could be mistaken. If their nylon twill is the same that Tony used on the CS jackets I don't think you can do much better in terms of durability. One thing I've observed about jacket liners orer the years is that there are those that are loose and there are those that fit close. The loose ones are the ones I've had problems with as they tend to get tugged at with more momentum or snagged on something. I've never owned a G&B but what I gather is they finish things out at a high level so I would guess they take the time to fit the liner to the jacket.

[mimesis]

Hey, how can you order custom at G & B? How much are they charging?

[Michaelson]

Oh, and for the record guys, having a totally made-to-measure custom tailored jacket adds another $250 to the base price. apparently they can do some changes like "tall" sleeves on a regular body and such, and that's $98. That kicks the cost of a goat-hide Expo from $488 up to $738 for a full custom job.

[mimesis]

Thank you very much, missed that!

[Michaelson]

[Solo4114]

Quick update:

Just got off the phone with Jessica at G&B's sales dept. She had a few bits of info.

1.) No leather facings. Apparently it'd alter the pattern too much to add them.

2.) Underarm gussets come standard. No need to specially request them.

3.) They're happy to send you a swatch of the liner material if you want. You can send them a swatch if you want custom liner, but if it's too thick to go through the machines, they won't use it.

4.) The cost for made-to-measure (I wouldn't call this "custom tailored" exactly) is the aforementioned $738. If you add a hidden snap, it goes up by $18 for a total of $756.

5.) For measurements, I gave them the following:

- Chest
- Over-the-shoulder measurement.
- Each individual shoulder.*
- Shoulder measurement from the blade.*
- Collar to waist measurement.
- Collar to where a suit jacket would hit (mid-backside).*
- Sleeve

* they didn't ask me for these measurements, but my tailor took them so they'd have as much info as was available.

She also asked me for waist and hip measurements, which I unfortunately did not have on hand.


You'll have to sign and return a signed copy of their "custom leather policy," which basically acknowledges that your jacket will not be refundable or returnable.

[CM]

You used to be able to get them to put in facings. I hate not having them on my otherwise great G&B.

[Solo4114]

I just report what they told me. >shrug< I figured they could do it, but maybe they don't anymore.

[Michaelson]

I wouldn't worry about it. As I've said before, I've never had any issues with not having the facing in any of my Expeditions in all the years I've owned them.

That said, also bear in mind that it would require more leather too, and with the current increase in cost of leather would definitely increase the price of the jacket even more!

As an aside, last I heard from G&B, their current delivery times are out to May now.

Regards! Michaelson

[Solo4114]

So, for the latest step in the saga, I FINALLY put in an order for an off-the rack-jacket (40R) in dark brown goat. It'll ship Monday. I gave them my measurements, and they sent me back the measurements of a 40R. Turns out I'm pretty close to their stock measurements, although the waist is about 2" less and the length is about 1" less. I'll try the off-the-rack and likely still go with the custom, but it should give me a better sense of how things fit. Pics forthcoming once I get the jacket.

[whipcracker]

Solo, did you ever get the custom Expo? I was going back through some older threads and I didn't remember hearing an end to your own jacket saga...

[Michaelson]

He hasn't been online since April 29th.

Regards! Michaelson

[whipcracker]

didn't notice that, thanks M. (really are a great knower of things) I hope he's ok.

[Indiana Joe]

Huh. A deerskin jacket. Interesting! How'd it wear/hold up?

Wow. Did this post bring back some memories! Indydawg had a deerskin and let me borrow/wear it for a few months...comfy jacket! Hard to describe but it didn't feel warm when the temperature went up, and it kept me toasty when the temp went down. Also, the skin seems to begin molding itself to my form--when I gave the jacket back to Indydawg, it was easy to see the shape of my shoulders, arms, and chest. I've owned G&B lamb, goat, and cowhide Expos and had never anything like that.

Just typing this makes me recall that I never got a chance to see the photos that Sergei took of G&B making my jacket...he happened to be at the facility when then were constructing it and mentioned he had the pictures. Those were some good jacket memories of back when I was getting into the hobby!

[Michaelson]

I had one of the prototype deerskin Expeditions. I loved the jacket, but the sleeves never COULD keep their length after getting warm. Once I took the jacket off, they returned to regular length.

It also picked up stains and absorbed smells like a sponge. If I went to a restaurant, it reeked of cooking smells for a week.

Nice leather, but for the kind of jacket it was made to be, it really didn't work out. It went back and goatskin entered my life.

Regards! Michaelson

[Dr. Nebraska S.]

, do you have any photos of that deerskin Expedition?

Best wishes,
Nebraska Schulte

[Michaelson]

Luke, that was well over 10 years ago, and I JUST got my first camera phone two weeks ago...so, no.

Regards! Michaelson

[Kevin Anderson]

Luke, that was well over 10 years ago, and I JUST got my first camera phone two weeks ago...so, no.

Regards! Michaelson

And your daughter has had your digital camera for...about eight years?
Good luck ever getting that back! May be time to buy another? They're very cheap nowadays!