Looking for the proper fabric for trousers

[Velahrn]

Hello, this is my first post here.

I am going to order a bespoke Indy-style trousers and looking for the right cloth. It has to be wool. As far as I know a cavalry twill would be the most accurate weave.

There are some companies, English mostly, that still make and sell cavalry twill fabric. Unfortunately, most of them are in the rage of weight 600 g/m. Which is a little too much for me for the trousers. Yes, that weight would be great, but for a winter trousers only, and I am looking for something more universal, at least spring and fall suitable.

I found that one company, the Dugdale Bros, produce cavalry twill in a more appropriate weight - 450 g/m (or just about 16 oz if you like) https://shop.dugdalebros.com/cavalry-tw ... lry_twill/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is this the correct color in your opinion? Has anyone any experience with this wool mill or this particular fabric?

Best regards

[Indiana Jeff]

Welcome aboard!

Based on what I see on my computer, that fabric color is a bit on the light side, could be a good LC look, but the ROLA color is generally considered to be a bit darker.

Where are you located? Back in 2012 I bought fabric to have trousers made. I found a site in the US, but I don't remember from where exactly. I'll dig around and see if I can find from where I ordered.

If you want to go the bespoke route, Indy Magnoli is an option you should explore. https://www.magnoliclothiers.com/advent ... -p-39.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

[Indiana Jeff]

There are a couple of options for fabric here. No necessarily cavalry twill.

https://www.fabric.com/buy/0725749/100- ... aupe-brown" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Regards,

Indiana Jeff

[Dalexs]

Based on what I see on my computer, that fabric color is a bit on the light side, could be a good LC look, but the ROLA color is generally considered to be a bit darker.

And there in lies the problem, computer screens will never all look the same, especially when "we" are talking about screen accurate...
everything is pretty much based off of screen grabs and is subjective...

Except for those lucky enough to have a pair of old Noel Howard pants...

You should see if they can send you a sample of the fabric. That would give you a better idea.

[Velahrn]

Welcome aboard!

Based on what I see on my computer, that fabric color is a bit on the light side, could be a good LC look, but the ROLA color is generally considered to be a bit darker.

Where are you located? Back in 2012 I bought fabric to have trousers made. I found a site in the US, but I don't remember from where exactly. I'll dig around and see if I can find from where I ordered.

If you want to go the bespoke route, Indy Magnoli is an option you should explore. https://www.magnoliclothiers.com/advent ... -p-39.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

I live in Poland so I am interested mostly in European (or at least European-based distribution) textiles, because I don't like paying duties or import taxes .

And thanks for that link! But the way, in the place where I live, bespoke trousers made by a fine tailor is about 150 USD, so even cheaper than Magnoli clothes.

That's the tweed trousers made by my tailor and they are IMO a good base for the upcoming Indy trousers , just without cuffs and braces.

https://imgur.com/a/VjkFhgp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

AFAIK the proper trousers should be like:
- high waist
- taupe/fawn color
- wool
- pleated (two pleats?)
- belt loops
- military back pockets
- buttons, not zipper

?

[tomek9210]

What about Wested trousers? Tailor can adjust them to you perfectly.

I live in Poland too. If you want to chat about Indy stuff in Polish, let me know

[indygr]

Welcome aboard!

Based on what I see on my computer, that fabric color is a bit on the light side, could be a good LC look, but the ROLA color is generally considered to be a bit darker.

Where are you located? Back in 2012 I bought fabric to have trousers made. I found a site in the US, but I don't remember from where exactly. I'll dig around and see if I can find from where I ordered.

If you want to go the bespoke route, Indy Magnoli is an option you should explore. https://www.magnoliclothiers.com/advent ... -p-39.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

I live in Poland so I am interested mostly in European (or at least European-based distribution) textiles, because I don't like paying duties or import taxes .

And thanks for that link! But the way, in the place where I live, bespoke trousers made by a fine tailor is about 150 USD, so even cheaper than Magnoli clothes.

That's the tweed trousers made by my tailor and they are IMO a good base for the upcoming Indy trousers , just without cuffs and braces.

https://imgur.com/a/VjkFhgp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

AFAIK the proper trousers should be like:
- high waist
- taupe/fawn color
- wool
- pleated (two pleats?)
- belt loops
- military back pockets
- buttons, not zipper

?

Hi there,

In my opinion this fawn color is not the correct one. Too light as it seems from the picture. The ROTLA trousers were more of a taupe-brown color almost dark stone. You should keep looking at various wool fabric suppliers at Saville Row or any other place in UK. For sure they have swatches available but some fabrics to be produced in a specific colour, will require a minimum batch to because they are not a usual choice.

Take a look at the below links:

https://www.yorkshirefabric.com/product ... ol-suiting

https://standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/ ... lry-twill/

https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/2 ... alry-twill

https://www.yorkshirefabric.com/collect ... ol-suiting

Brgds
Indygr

[Dalexs]

I have a sample piece of Noel Howard Raiders fabric, which reminds me... I really should find...
but based on MY monitor, I'd say that Yorkshire Stone looks pretty close.

Again, using monitor screens shots can be very subjective...
And, are you trying to replicate what you see on screen, or what the pants really look like.

[Velahrn]

Hi there,

In my opinion this fawn color is not the correct one. Too light as it seems from the picture. The ROTLA trousers were more of a taupe-brown color almost dark stone. You should keep looking at various wool fabric suppliers at Saville Row or any other place in UK. For sure they have swatches available but some fabrics to be produced in a specific colour, will require a minimum batch to because they are not a usual choice.

Take a look at the below links:

https://www.yorkshirefabric.com/product ... ol-suiting

https://standevenfabrics.co.uk/product/ ... lry-twill/

https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/2 ... alry-twill

https://www.yorkshirefabric.com/collect ... ol-suiting

Brgds
Indygr

Hello

Thanks for such a detailed answer!

Unfortunately, two of that option in unavailable. The Macculloch fabric is out of stock and the Standeven site requires you to be a tailor to order.

Also I want to share a surprising fact. Magnoli Clothiers sells not only RTW Indy trousers, but also a fabric for it! I emailed that about the details and weight, but their color seems pretty accurate to me.

https://www.magnoliclothiers.com/cavalr ... p-383.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have a sample piece of Noel Howard Raiders fabric, which reminds me... I really should find...
but based on MY monitor, I'd say that Yorkshire Stone looks pretty close.

Again, using monitor screens shots can be very subjective...
And, are you trying to replicate what you see on screen, or what the pants really look like.

Honestly I am not sure I just hope that the differences would be so small that they can be mitigated.

[Canyon]

I also have a sample piece of the Noel Howard pants from the Temple of Doom/Last Crusade pair that I bought from him.