jacket for a more athletic person

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anzepirnat
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jacket for a more athletic person

Post by anzepirnat »

Ok, so I've been going through this wonderful forum for an hour and I've been thinking for hours but I still cant get on top of my situation.

So a couple of weeks ago I decided that I want a leather jacket, after browsing web for some time, I went to see Indiana Jones movie to relax. And then it hit me, that Indiana has a pretty nice jacket. So shortly after that I found wested… .

I'd prefer a jacket that is a bit more fitted. I have rather thin waist 35in compared to chest 44in, I'm 5'11'' and weigh 200. My arms are around 16in when flexed I don't think that's a problem, but please inform me if it is. So I was thinking about Raiders maybe?. But I'm not sure whether I should go for the hero version. I read that it was made for Harrison Fords 'V shaped' body type which maybe could benefit me. But I'm not a huge fan of the loose back. The LC jacket also looks good to me but its a bit more 'baggy' or so I've read.

I want it to be as durable as possible and not to warm, usable for up to 60 Fahrenheit (15 celsius) with T-shirt and to about 30 maybe even 20 Fahrenheit (0 celsius) with thick pullover. Is horse hide a good idea? Oh, and it's probably worth mentioning that I'm looking forward to wearing basically all the time, except summer of course.

I'm also not sure about the measurements. Does 26in back and 26in sleeve sound good considering my height, my wingspan is 193cm (76in).

Thank you so much for reading through all this, it really means a lot to me and it helps me a lot.

Have a nice day,
Anže
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Michaelson
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by Michaelson »

First of all, WELCOME! :TOH:

Second of all, GOOD heavens you're going to get flooded with suggestions, so strap in tight and wait for the tsunami! :CR:

You're definitely going to be needing a bespoke jacket to fit your frame, and you have several good vendors to choose from....from Wested (of course), to Steele and Jones, among others!

They're great to work with, and will definitely fill the needs you have.

I'll now step back and let those who have have had recent dealings with these folks give you the feedback you need.

Once again, glad to have you aboard!

HIGH regards! Michaelson :M:
CM
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by CM »

Yep everyone will have a view on this. There's the screen accurate fit versus how do you like your jackets to fit. Given Harrison was a scrawny guy (six one 170 pounds) screen accurate not so possible for you. The look of this movie jacket is largely based on having a screen accurate body. But if that doesn't matter, great!

Probably worth noting that apart from some scenes in The Temple of Doom, the Indy jacket is essentially a baggy jacket with wide shoulders and floppy leather. It is not a slim fit 1930's half-belt.

I would recommend a few things.

Work out how you like your jackets to fit before picking one. I would base my measurements on a denim jacket or something similar that fits the way you like and find a jacket that corresponds in sizing. Measure the sleeve length along the side of the sleeve from the collar seam to the end hem.

I am six two - I need a 26.5 inch back to suit my taste. Harrison's film jacket was about 23 inches and was cut funny so this may not be relevant to your needs.

Lots of different sizes will actually fit you but the question is how well? I am six two with a 42 inch chest and a 32 inch waist 185 pounds - I prefer a 26.5 back, 26 inch sleeves (I have a 190 wingspan), 23.5 pit to pit. All those measurements can vary by an inch either way and the jacket will still fit ok.

I would think you may need 27 inch sleeves - you could contact Wested with your measurements and see what they recommend. The shoulders on these are wide so this means the sleeve length can be a touch shorter.

My favourite hide is goat, it is lightish but hugely strong. Leather doesn't provide much warmth, so you need insulation (a fleece, etc) if you want that.

People have strong views on this stuff :TOH:
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by xmasters »

anzepirnat wrote:
I'm also not sure about the measurements. Does 26in back and 26in sleeve sound good considering my height, my wingspan is 193cm (76in).
Sounds good. Order a Temple of Doom jacket. It's the most slender and fitted. What you're loooking for basically.
anzepirnat
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by anzepirnat »

Probably worth noting that apart from some scenes in The Temple of Doom, the Indy jacket is essentially a baggy jacket with wide shoulders and floppy leather. It is not a slim fit 1930's half-belt.
Yes, I'm ok with a bit off baggyness I want it to be comfortable of course. The raiders HERO might still be my best option, or the normal raiders.
Sounds good. Order a Temple of Doom jacket. It's the most slender and fitted. What you're loooking for basically.
I don't like the ToD jacket so much because its pockets are so small.

As far as the leather goes, does horsehide look good on indy jackets, or is the goat hide a better option.

Thanks a lot.
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by Michaelson »

Depends on the vendor.

The HH from Steele and Jones has been fantastic looking, and can be ordered in a thinner hide than most.

That said, though, goatskin works all across the board in tensile strength, weight, AND water resistance.

Regards! Michaelson
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by xmasters »

anzepirnat wrote:
Sounds good. Order a Temple of Doom jacket. It's the most slender and fitted. What you're loooking for basically.
I don't like the ToD jacket so much because its pockets are so small.

As far as the leather goes, does horsehide look good on indy jackets, or is the goat hide a better option.

Thanks a lot.
Anže
If you're having your jacket custom made from any vendor you can request for the pockets to be slightly larger than screen accuracy for the practical element.

If you want a slim fit look I would stay away from the Raiders hero jacket (or westeds version of it). It has slim fit arms but unzipped it's not as good a look with the added space in the mid section. This is why the ToD jacket is better for your needs.
anzepirnat
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by anzepirnat »

goatskin works all across the board in tensile strength, weight, AND water resistance
Ok, I guess I'll choose goat hide than. Do I have to treat it with some waterproofing stuff of some kind, when I get it, or is it already water-resistant enough. And after that, with what should I treat it and how often? I heard once or twice a year with pecards dressing.
If you're having your jacket custom made from any vendor you can request for the pockets to be slightly larger than screen accuracy for the practical element.
They said that they can do it.

Thank you all! I'm going to go for ToD with goat leather.
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by Michaelson »

You won’t have to do much of anything to goatskin as it has such tight pores it tough to get it to accept much of ANYTHING in terms of conditioning.

I’m a long practitioner of Pecards leather lotion, but for hides like goat or kangaroo I’m had very good results with the conditioner sold by US Wings.

Your jacket will let you know when it’s required, but a once a year before the start of the season is a good benchmark. Some folks need it more often, others every couple of years. It all depends on how it’s used and where you live.

That said, goatskin takes a LONG time to distress if you’re going for that look in short order, but ages nicely with regular wear and use over the years.

Regards! Michaelson
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by Mark Raats »

Specific ordering is the way to go and while I have not got a Wested, I do have Wings, Magnoli and Steele and Jones Jackets all fit to my size. For my money, the S&J Horse leather is strong enough to weather abuse and is not too heavy (or hot) and it won't rip. I am 6ft 4 and weight about 208 lbs and I wear a 35inch trousers and I am 100% happy with all of the jackets I own.

Take your time and order according to your size. You are not the same measurements as Harrison so go with a solution that gives you a jacket that fits and looks the part.

MARK
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by Jeremiah »

Michaelson wrote:You won’t have to do much of anything to goatskin as it has such tight pores it tough to get it to accept much of ANYTHING in terms of conditioning.

I’m a long practitioner of Pecards leather lotion, but for hides like goat or kangaroo I’m had very good results with the conditioner sold by US Wings.

Your jacket will let you know when it’s required, but a once a year before the start of the season is a good benchmark. Some folks need it more often, others every couple of years. It all depends on how it’s used and where you live.

That said, goatskin takes a LONG time to distress if you’re going for that look in short order, but ages nicely with regular wear and use over the years.

Regards! Michaelson
Goat has lanolin oils in it which is why it doesn't absorb much. has nothing to do with tight pores.
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Michaelson
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by Michaelson »

Don't shoot the messenger! Just repeating what Peter Botwright and the local tannery (established 1946) told me years ago. :lol:

Like you, I guess they also know what they’re talking about since they work(ed) with it every day.

I’m positive lanolin is also a factor in the final equation, as it's even added to kangaroo hides before shipment, and that's considered the MOST water resistant hide available....though lanolin was never mentioned by the aforementioned sources. :-k

Their explanation was due to the size of the animal, the pores of the hide were smaller, and therefore before addition of any treatment to an already naturally water resistant material (note, I didn't say 'water proof'). Depending on the hide, sometimes they're even leather treatment resistant. :? ;)

This website has an interesting explanation about it, as it was explained to me this not only can define the softness of the leather, but also how much moisture (fluid, vapor) can pass through the hide before any leather treatment has been applied.

The type tanning/pigment application also affects water resistance on open pored hides, as seen in the 'porous leather' video in the link below.

https://www.leather-dictionary.com/inde ... _follicles" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Anyway, back on the rails and back to the discussion and question of the OP.

Regards! M :TOH:
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by CM »

anzepirnat wrote:
goatskin works all across the board in tensile strength, weight, AND water resistance
Ok, I guess I'll choose goat hide than. Do I have to treat it with some waterproofing stuff of some kind, when I get it, or is it already water-resistant enough. And after that, with what should I treat it and how often? I heard once or twice a year with pecards dressing.
If you're having your jacket custom made from any vendor you can request for the pockets to be slightly larger than screen accuracy for the practical element.
They said that they can do it.

Thank you all! I'm going to go for ToD with goat leather.
Since the 1980's I have treated my jackets with dressing every 5 to 8 years and sometimes for breaking in, I wash them in the washing machine without any damage - cold water a little detergent. I have treated most of my 50 plus jackets this way over 30 years without issue. Of course there will be folks with different stories and strictures.
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by fifthchamber »

As a bodybuilder/trainer still, I'd recommend the S&J HH Crusade.....It's custom fitted, which is always better...The "standard" off the rack variations of all these jackets can cause issues if your body isn't "standard" (Whose is?) shape...I've been impressed most by the Steele and Jones jacket they made for me...
Arm size is no issue, my shoulders fit easily into it, and my chest is 46 inches or so, waist is about the same as you, 34-35ish although I'm only 5'8" or so, same weight, 215lbs....I've been delighted by the jacket they made for me...
They'll ask for some pics in other jackets, and sizes to get your jacket balanced and sized right, but they nailed mine, and I'm confident they'd do the same for you....That's my recommendation ;)
anzepirnat
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Re: jacket for a more athletic person

Post by anzepirnat »

I actually already ordered it. But I think that I would do the same again because while GB is still in Europe union I don't have to pay a lot of taxes. And I didn't want to spend a lot of money (I'm a student). And they did the custom fit over chest, sleeves and back length.

I'll post some photos once I get it.
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