America's obsession with beef is killing leather

[Michaelson]

https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/markets ... spartanntp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Interesting article!

Regards! Michaelson

[Forrest For the Trees]

Really interesting. This is a shame. I don't eat much meat, and I generally think people should simply cut back on how much the eat, but leather is a natural bi-product of the meat industry and it should not be wasted. There is something to be said for using the whole animal. And leather can last generations, like a well-made hard-wearing jacket. Strange that the vegan/vegetarian diets have not changed the amount of meat we eat, but have impacted fashion so much.

[temple_runner]

Eat more meat = cheaper leather jackets is what I got out of that

[Trenin]

Interesting. I make leather goods and use cowhide from time to time. Mostly I prefer other leathers, but cow is the bedrock staple. I’d rather not own a jacket than wear a pleather jacket, personally.

[Indiana Jeff]

I wonder how much of the decline in demand for leather goods is a byproduct of prices being so high five years ago.

If I spent $5-600 on a leather jacket five years ago instead of $2-300, I'm not going to be in the market for another one now. If I had paid $2-300 back then, maybe I would.

I would also bet the jacket/shoe makers who raised their prices five years ago have not subsequently lowered their prices significantly now that leather is so cheap. It's an opportunity to increase their profit margin. Except the higher prices are keeping demand low.


Regards,

Indiana Jeff

[CM]

I'm not surprised. In my city of 5 million, I rarely see leather jackets being worn. Certainly not by men. I don't think this is ideological it is an aesthetic position. People I've spoken to don't like the look of them. None of my male friends own one or would wear one. I've owned over 60 leather jackets so I have done my bit for the cause.

[davidd]

I would also bet the jacket/shoe makers who raised their prices five years ago have not subsequently lowered their prices significantly now that leather is so cheap. It's an opportunity to increase their profit margin. Except the higher prices are keeping demand low.

I suspect that Indiana Jeff is spot on with this observation. I just checked the price for a pair of Aldens. Still out of my price league.

I also believe CM is correct: it's an aesthetic, or "style" choice. Leatherwear, like jackets, that were hot in the 1980s, are simply not considered fashionable.

I learned a new term: "athleisure," shorthand for "athletic leisure wear." Like, people wearing sweatpants and lycra tank tops everywhere except for at the gym. M'kay, look, if that's how society is dressing these days, no wonder there's no demand for leather. Same reason there's no demand for felt fedora hats. We've become a nation, and a world, of slobs... "because it's comfortable."

[Mulceber]

I learned a new term: "athleisure," shorthand for "athletic leisure wear." Like, people wearing sweatpants and lycra tank tops everywhere except for at the gym. M'kay, look, if that's how society is dressing these days, no wonder there's no demand for leather. Same reason there's no demand for felt fedora hats. We've become a nation, and a world, of slobs... "because it's comfortable."

Yep, but the ultimate example of atheleisure is people wearing yoga pants everywhere - a not-so-subtle way of letting the rest of us know that they do yoga (whether or not they actually do).

One thing about that article didn't add up for me: the author partly attributed to decline to the idea that a lot of these hides have blemishes from the long lives of the cattle. That doesn't add up at all: most leather produced in the US is either top grain leather (where the top surface is shaved off to remove blemishes) or bonded leather (basically the particle board of leather). Blemishes in the leather wouldn't be a factor there. Meanwhile, full grain leather (the stuff that preserves the original surface of the skin) is produced for leather aficionados, who overwhelmingly LIKE having a leather with more character. It's at the point where Aero Leather advertises its "real deal A-2 leather" (http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/prod ... .php?id=89" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) that comes with blemishes. So, there's no reason why blemishes would be a factor in hide sales.

[CM]

I learned a new term: "athleisure," shorthand for "athletic leisure wear." Like, people wearing sweatpants and lycra tank tops everywhere except for at the gym. M'kay, look, if that's how society is dressing these days, no wonder there's no demand for leather. Same reason there's no demand for felt fedora hats. We've become a nation, and a world, of slobs... "because it's comfortable."

Yep, but the ultimate example of atheleisure is people wearing yoga pants everywhere - a not-so-subtle way of letting the rest of us know that they do yoga (whether or not they actually do).

One thing about that article didn't add up for me: the author partly attributed to decline to the idea that a lot of these hides have blemishes from the long lives of the cattle. That doesn't add up at all: most leather produced in the US is either top grain leather (where the top surface is shaved off to remove blemishes) or bonded leather (basically the particle board of leather). Blemishes in the leather wouldn't be a factor there. Meanwhile, full grain leather (the stuff that preserves the original surface of the skin) is produced for leather aficionados, who overwhelmingly LIKE having a leather with more character. It's at the point where Aero Leather advertises its "real deal A-2 leather" (http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/prod ... .php?id=89" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) that comes with blemishes. So, there's no reason why blemishes would be a factor in hide sales.

Tbat's true, but journalism often gropes for answers and most leather jackets would be smooth mall sold versions if they were popular.

[Mulceber]

That would explain a lot, CM.

[CM]

What I think is interesting is that there are quite a few middle aged men buying artisan leather jackets from places like Aero or Himel or Goodwear which cost $1000 or more per jacket and are super well made and rustic, with creases and blemishes all part of the veg tanned leather fetish. Horsehide remains the most popular, it seems. It's got the glamour and period accuracy sewn up (no pun intended). But this enthusiasm remains boutique and will clearly never move all that cowhide.

[davidd]

What I think is interesting is that there are quite a few middle aged men buying artisan leather jackets from places like Aero or Himel or Goodwear which cost $1000 or more per jacket ....

And then there are a few "middle aged men" who don't have a grand to drop on a new "artisan leather jacket" (or whose spouses would inflict grievous bodily harm upon them if they did) so we... I mean they ... pick up pre-owned Willis & Geiger versions on eBay for under a hundred bucks. Which also doesn't do anything to keep the new cowhide moving.

I think the leather industry needs to focus on bringing back the "Emma Peel" look to get leather sales back on the rails:

https://i2-prod.birminghammail.co.uk/in ... n-1965.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CM]

[xmasters]

If you've got the money go for it and enjoy the things you enjoy. Nobody is getting out of here alive.

[Cajunkraut]

People I've spoken to don't like the look of them. None of my male friends own one or would wear one.

My theory is that price aside, it's because 75% of the commercially-available leather jackets out there look like overly-distressed nubuck abominations of some original design. The typical mall-quality "bomber" jacket. Everything else seems to fall under the glove-soft fashion racer category. Not a whole lotta incentive for seasonal off-the-rack purchases.

True leather jacket aficionados will take the time to research designs and manufacturers and are prepared to pay a premium.

[CM]

People I've spoken to don't like the look of them. None of my male friends own one or would wear one.

My theory is that price aside, it's because 75% of the commercially-available leather jackets out there look like overly-distressed nubuck abominations of some original design. The typical mall-quality "bomber" jacket. Everything else seems to fall under the glove-soft fashion racer category. Not a whole lotta incentive for seasonal off-the-rack purchases.

True leather jacket aficionados will take the time to research designs and manufacturers and are prepared to pay a premium.

Don't think the mall issue applies to this problem. If leather jackets were cool again in a broader sense, there would be a huge amount produced and sold in a variety of looks. The reality is the market reflects what is popular. In the 1980's, just about every guy had a leather jacket, be it a baggy horrific marble finished A2 or a customer made black cross zip biker. They were everywhere.

I wear a few $1000 plus custom made leather jackets and the younger staff at my work (under 30) dislike them - they are my 'old man' jackets because only old guys would wear leather jackets.

I think if there's a hit movie with a protagonist wearing a leather jacket it may change that perception. But it wont be an 80 year-old Harrison Ford in a new Indy film, should that happen.

[Indiana Jeff]

I wear a fair number of different leather jackets, mostly movie related. I work on a college campus and my students very often compliment me on the different jackets. Now, they may be thinking, "That's a cool "old guy" jacket" but none the less, I get compliments from the 20-something crowd.


Regards,

Indiana Jeff

[Michaelson]

Must be a regional thing. Winter comes on, I see as many leather jackets on old and young alike, as well as fedoras, so not much changes in my neck of the woods. Leather still has a following here in Tennessee.

Regards! M

[CM]

Nice to hear. It may well be regional. And it's probably also about what town, even within a country.

I think the US tradition of A2's and G1's has also helped establish leather jackets as something many men have worn when young and it's part of your story. We don't have any of that.

[Prodigal Son]

You don't really see good leather.
You don't really see good designs.
You don't really see the above two things at reasonable prices.

I went into a Wilsons Leather recently, just to see, since I was at a big outlet mall-type place. I didn't see a single thing I'd spend money on. I think one coat had nice leather, but the design wasn't really all that hot.

That glove-soft garment leather somebody else mentioned here is a big turn-off for me. And you see them in that café racer design every where leather jackets are sold.

I remember about ten years ago, this guy was making jackets on the cheap. His company was called Film Jackets.com. What ever happened to him? I bought a Bruno Half Belt from him and man, that leather is still nice. He had the right idea. I guess he went out of business. But I think I paid something like 250 for that jacket is sharp. It makes me look like a stud... almost. But still, perhaps if jacket makers would do that, then old Wilsons Leather might start making some sales.

[Indiana Jeff]

Rick at filmjackets did delve into jacket making and put out really nice jackets. He ran into supply chain problems. I also have the Bruno half-belt in the buffalo hide he offered in 2013 and it continues to be a great jacket. I have a few of the jackets they produced and all have held up well and get compliments whenever I wear them.


Regards,

Indiana Jeff

[whipwarrior]

That glove-soft garment leather somebody else mentioned here is a big turn-off for me. And you see them in that café racer design every where leather jackets are sold.

That reminds me of a jacket I saw in a high-end Bay Area fashion retailer about 10 years ago. It was a tissue-thin lambskin racer jacket that I could have ripped with my hands. I did a double-take when I saw the staggering $3500 price tag. I was actually wearing my Wested CS novapelle at the time, and this obscenely-priced chamois rag was as thin as the cotton lining in my Indy jacket. I couldn't believe anybody would pay that exorbitant price for such a flimsy garment. A stiff wind would have shredded the leather! I'll take a sturdy cowhide jacket ANY day!

[CM]

Surely, if there is a solid market for something there is a solid product to satisfy that market. Simple economics.

I may be wrong but I can't help thinking the reasons there leather jackets are often poor today is because it's likely that's all what's left of the market interest. If you look at eBay you can see that there were so many thicker, well made mall jackets produced by Banana Republic and Gap and even Wilsons (when they were good) 20 to 30 years ago.

[Michaelson]

I've always put it down to the mindset of the manufacturers.

Let's face it, leather jackets are supposed to be bullet proof and survive a nuclear blast. They aren't a 'single season throw away' item that we'll just go out and replace in a year.

That mindset is not making any money for a leather jacket maker.

Built in obsolescence is a real thing, and there are a few things in life that are more 'permanent' than a well made leather jacket.

Folks with deep pockets aren't phased by the high priced but super thin and easily shredded jackets, as many times they're worn just a few times, then cast aside for the 'next new thing'. Money and longevity are no objects in their thinking.

What a buyer needs to do is research a potential vendor and see what THEY'RE saying about their jackets. If they throw in lines like 'this is something you'll be proud to hand down to your grand kids....', then they may take a bit more pride in the making of the jacket than one who things of them as just seasonal items that are to be worn a couple times, then replaced next year.

It's all in how they're marketed, and who the market is aimed at.

JMO, and based on dealing directly with several leather jacket vendors over past few the decades.

Regards! Michaelson

[whipwarrior]

Speaking of durable leather goods, Wested will soon be offering a sturdy leather version of Indy's satchel, as an alternative to the classic canvas MK-VII bag. They replied to an e-mail enquiry for more details:

They are made by the Wested team in-house and will be available from Saturday 19th Oct on the website. They will be on sale for £49 and available in pre-distressed hide, black or brown hide.

So the cost is basically $60 + shipping. That's a bargain! I'm buying it in pre-distressed hide, which should nicely compliment my novapelle LC jacket!

[Michaelson]

As I understand it, the new bag will be officially revealed at the October 19th Wested Weekend Adventure, as seen here in their FB page.

https://www.facebook.com/events/367220747281048/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Regards! Michaelson

[whipwarrior]

I'm envious of everyone who attends the Wested Adventure weekend! Wish I could go!

[Michaelson]

Same here.

I was also surprised no one posted an announcement about it in the Events section of it occurring.

Isn't anyone one here going?

I took care of that.

Regards! M