Vintage Sears Hercules Halfbelt

Forrest For the Trees · Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:12 am

Sorry, mods, for this being off-topic. This style jacket has been discussed here, so I thought it would be worth sharing...

The jacket gods must be smiling on me, because I just scored big time on ebay. I have been lusting over vintage 1940s style half belt leather jackets for the past few years. The one I have wanted more than any other is the Sears Hercules label. I considered spending a lot of money on an Aero, and searched on ebay almost daily. I have been outbid more times than I can count, and I just about gave up. And then, the jacket of my dreams showed up just a few days ago with an opening bid of $250. There were no other bidders, and I won the jacket for the opening price! I could tell by the listing and the photos that the sellers measurements were wrong. I had no idea if the jacket would really fit!

It arrived yesterday, and it is so perfect, it scares me. The jacket is nearly pristine. It is over 60 years old, but looking at the jacket makes me feel like I am traveling back in time. The leather is nearly perfect and the lining is 100% intact and all original. The talon zipper and pocket zipper work like new! Even the labels are crisp. An Aero repro of this jacket would cost almost $800! Enough gushing and on to the pictures...

Front, Unzipped:
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac20 ... Front1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Front, Zipped
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac20 ... Front2.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Back, Flash
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac20 ... Flash1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Back, No Flash
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac20 ... tural1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Collar and Label
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac20 ... Label1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Front, Worn, Unzipped
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac20 ... Unzip1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Front, Worn, Zipped
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac20 ... rnZip1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Back, Worn
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac20 ... nBack1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The color is a very dark brown. The jacket was dry and stiff when I got it out of the box. It relaxed like crazy with a single coat of Pecards. That stuff works wonders! Thanks for looking.

Cheers.

TheExit148 · Post by **TheExit148** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:27 am

Looks great and in great condition is another feat in its own! I love the half belt jackets, a classic look. Enjoy the jacket

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:47 am

BLAST....can't see the photos yet...the server filter at work keeps us from viewing on photobucket..

But, 250!?!?!?!?! MAN, that's awesome! And a great find, too!

Congrats...GLAD to hear your pleased with it...

Regards!
Indydawg

Forrest For the Trees · Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:54 am

Dawg, just wait till you see the photos...

I'm still in shock. I've been outbid on jackets just like this with a maximum bid of $500, that weren't in nearly as good shape. This jacket is almost new, but it is 60 years old. It blows my mind.

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:58 am

Ahhh...you're killin' me, Forrest...

Too much "waitin" lately...waitin' for my Wested...waitin' to see these pics....everybody waitin' on their Legend jackets..

The Chipmunks song has not had this much meaning in a while...

"Hurry Christmas, hurry fast!!!"

Indydawg

Forrest For the Trees · Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:01 am

So, not only am I blown away at the condition, but also the fit. As I said, the seller totally botched the measurements, but I had a hunch it might fit just by looking at the proportions in the photos he posted.

Seller listed the following:
Pit to pit: 22.5 inches
Back length: 27 inches
Sleeve length: 23.5 inches

Going by the above measurements, the jacket would fit well enough in the chest, be too long, with sleeves that were too short!

I knew something was wrong.

Here are the actual measurements:
Pit to pit: 22 inches
Shoulder to shoulder: 19 inches
Back length: 24 inches
Sleeve length: 25 inches

In other words, exactly my size. It's like winning the lottery.

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:06 am

Dude...I was watching the EXACT same jacket!! I didn't bid on it PRECISELY because of the "off" measurements...figured the guy didn't know what he was doing, so I just passed...

I'm stoked for you, dude...you're right...a jacket in as good a condition as this one sounds, made as well as they were back then...

I try not to envy...but you're makin' it hard

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:07 am

Oh...and those measurements would also be perfect for ME!!!

So...if you ever get the crazy notion to sell her...well, you just let me know!

High Regards!
Indydawg

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:09 am

I officially hate you!!!

Congrats. A vintage half belt is HIGH on my jacket list!

Travis

Forrest For the Trees · Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:31 am

Indydawg wrote:Dude...I was watching the EXACT same jacket!! I didn't bid on it PRECISELY because of the "off" measurements...figured the guy didn't know what he was doing, so I just passed...

I'm stoked for you, dude...you're right...a jacket in as good a condition as this one sounds, made as well as they were back then...

I try not to envy...but you're makin' it hard

That's too much. I almost didn't bid. The guy's pictures were weird. It was on a much too skinny dress-maker's dummy torso, so it looked huge in the shoulders and chest. That coupled with the messed up measurements made me think that it wouldn't fit, so why bother. But then the seller included two photos of the jacket laying flat. I looked at the proportions and thought, well, that might work!

Sorry, Dawg. I'll try to send my good jacket mojo your way.

Forrest For the Trees · Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:32 am

_- Thanks. I thought you would appreciate it.

Hollowpond- I completely understand. I almost hate me too right now!

TheExit148 · Post by **TheExit148** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:35 am

I bet he measured the arm length from the arm pit area, thats why the measurement seemed so short.

Forrest For the Trees · Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:38 am

TheExit148 wrote:I bet he measured the arm length from the arm pit area, thats why the measurement seemed so short.

Good thought, but no. Underside of sleeve from armpit to cuff is 17 inches.

Gorak · Post by **Gorak** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:18 pm

Very nice..congrats..now I want one!

Rundquist · Post by **Rundquist** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:45 pm

Congratulations. The jacket looks tailor made. You couldn't have done better, you basterd!

Flyderf · Post by **Flyderf** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:26 pm

Very nice find. Nothing beats 'real' vintage.

Joeyeah_right · Post by **Joeyeah_right** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 3:28 pm

Wow! Lovely looking jacket!!

I'd love to get one of those myself one day.

Joe

Post by **Indy Magnoli** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 4:00 pm

Congratulations! That is a real score!

Kind regards,
Indy

kwad · Post by **kwad** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 4:35 pm

Forrest,

That jacket is amazing!!! Good catch.

However, everytime you post a picture of yourself, the first thing I think is "Hey, he looks NOTHING like Billy D.!"

Forrest For the Trees · Fri Dec 17, 2010 5:01 pm

Lando is just awesome.

Rick Deckard · Post by **Rick Deckard** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 5:09 pm

Beautiful jacket! I love the dark brown. Is that cowhide?

I love vintage stuff, esp. from the WWII era. I am currently wearing a British military issued (circa 1940) Timor watch. It's simple, elegant, and after 70 years (and being serviced, of course) keeps great time.

I am of the opinion that a lot of things made back then, and pretty much up until we started importing garbage from China, were of a higher quality. How, then, would you compare the quality of construction to other modern jackets you own? I'm not so sure the quality issue applies to garments as much, but I'm curious to hear your opinion nonetheless.

Again, great jacket!

Forrest For the Trees · Fri Dec 17, 2010 5:50 pm

Hmmm... good question.

I'd say that the quality of the construction on the Hercules jacket is just as good as the construction on my Tony Nowak jacket, that is to say, excellent. The stitching is great, although there is a little bit of wandering on one of the collar tips. Also, I own an LL Bean A-2 Flying Tiger goatskin from 1989 back when they were made in the U.S. and the construction is just as good. This is my first Horsehide jacket, so I have nothing to compare it to.

Here's the thing, though. This jacket was made and produced by Sears. An American department store. According to a catalog from 1947 posted over at the Fedora Lounge, this horsehide jacket sold for $18.95. That's about $200 of today's dollars (about what I spent on ebay

) Anyway, you couldn't walk into any department store or mall or American chain retailer today and buy anything like this. Designed and made in California? Horsehide? Trim fit and numbered chest sizes? Classic and timeless design? Forget it. To get something this good, you've got to go to independent craftsmen who are custom making these one at a time, like Nowak, Chapman of Good Wear, or high-end producers such as Aero. And to be sure, those folks are turning out jackets as good, if not better, than this vintage jacket.

Post by **Tennessee Smith** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 6:01 pm

Forrest that is one awesome jacket. Talk about hitting the lottery!!!

My next Non-Indy jacket will be a Schott Cafe Racer 141... I think

Bemo · Post by **Bemo** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 6:56 pm

Gorgeous jacket and perfect fit! Too bad G&B or USWings doesn't make one of these.

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:19 pm

Forrest...I have finally seen the picsz

Two things:

1) I hate you..
2) I am SO happy for you..

Dude...that jacket is fan-freaking-tastic!!!!

Nicely done!!

Long John Tinfoil · Post by **Long John Tinfoil** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:18 pm

Oh that's just great! Now I'm going to be putting these on my watch list along with all the other goodies I need everyone else to overlook!

Sometimes the Fairy Godmother Department is on the job.

Don't forget to send a thank-you card.

LJ

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Sat Dec 18, 2010 9:58 am

Awesome find! Good for you. I've been trolling looking for the same or very similar jacket for some time. Same boat: either find them in the wrong size, too old/beat up, or get outbid. Perseverance pays off. Time to start trolling again....

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Forrest For the Trees · Sat Dec 18, 2010 10:31 am

That's the take-away here, Jeff, perseverance! I have literally been typing "Horsehide Jacket" into ebay every day I have had access to a computer. It's been about two years. Anyone who recognizes the jacket as being horsehide will list it properly. Other searches become pretty frustrating. I'm done searching (for now!). With this vintage half belt, the Nowak CS, and the Wested lamb Raiders, I'm covered. I have 5 other leather jackets that I really need to purge from my collection. Maybe after the holidays...

Post by **Holt** » Sat Dec 18, 2010 10:38 am

love it!! and I really dig that lining. Cool jacket!! Congrats!

Forrest For the Trees · Sat Dec 18, 2010 11:06 am

The lining rocks! It is a burnt orange rayon. It has a really nice feel, no loose threads, no runs or tears, just a few faint sweat stains. The only thing I miss is an inner pocket, but I'm not going to dare complain!

An interesting thing about the lining, is that it is not attached, nor was it ever, to the bottom of the lower back panel. I don't know why it would have been designed this way, but it does give you access to the underside of the leather inside the jacket.

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Sat Dec 18, 2010 9:46 pm

Coming back to this thread again...still hating you...

To me, THAT is Indiana Jones' Jacket. More period correct and IMHO more bad-A!!!

I will have a jacket like that someday! I, like Bink, am more interested in a period accurate Indy. I have MY period accurate Indy hat;

A jacket just like that is the next BIG piece of my puzzle. Congrats again.

Travis

Forrest For the Trees · Sun Dec 19, 2010 12:32 am

Travis- Cool hat. What is it?

So after wearing this jacket for the past two days, I can start to appreciate horsehide. It molds to your body like no other leather. The creasing in the sleeves is just awesome. My Nowak cowhide feels luxuriously soft next to this, and my Wested lamb feels like a limp rag. I was out shopping yesterday and a sales person stopped to tell me what a great jacket I was wearing. I told her it was probably over 60 years old and she didn't believe me.

I'll try to take some daylight pictures tomorrow. To get an idea of the color, it is identical to the dark brown lambskin Wested uses, but the undertone is light brown instead of gray.

Digger4Glory · Post by **Digger4Glory** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 2:34 am

Forrest For the Trees wrote:So, not only am I blown away at the condition, but also the fit. As I said, the seller totally botched the measurements, but I had a hunch it might fit just by looking at the proportions in the photos he posted.

Seller listed the following:
Pit to pit: 22.5 inches
Back length: 27 inches
Sleeve length: 23.5 inches

Going by the above measurements, the jacket would fit well enough in the chest, be too long, with sleeves that were too short! I knew something was wrong.

Here are the actual measurements:
Pit to pit: 22 inches
Shoulder to shoulder: 19 inches
Back length: 24 inches
Sleeve length: 25 inches

In other words, exactly my size. It's like winning the lottery.

Now this totally rocks! Great jacket and in your size! Well done on the find! I love horsehide! Very cool my friend, wear it in good health!

John

Lao Feng · Post by **Lao Feng** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 8:12 am

A beauty! Nothing like scoring a vintage gem to make one smile.

Mitch LaRue · Post by **Mitch LaRue** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 9:47 am

Really a gorgeous jacket and PERFECT fit...
Congratulations!

Forrest For the Trees · Sun Dec 19, 2010 4:29 pm

Okay, I haven't taken any outdoor shots yet, but here is one other picture from the other day. Yeah, I'm getting tired of the bookcases, too, but I have a large window opposite them, so it gets a lot of natural light. This shot gives you an idea of how the jacket fits through the torso.

http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac20 ... sWorn1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

Oh, and Digger, Lao, and Mitch, thanks for the compliments!

CM · Post by CM » Mon Dec 20, 2010 2:38 am

Bemo wrote:Gorgeous jacket and perfect fit! Too bad G&B or USWings doesn't make one of these.

That is so true. They would sell a bundle if they made them. If the Sarge would do one in goat or HH I would buy two. At the moment the only company that does them well is Aero: they cost a bundle and the wait is forever. Imagine a US Wings half-belt in their high quality hides. Yummy.

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:43 am

I asked Sarge about this very thing about a month or two ago, to which he replied,"We are not in the fashion business. Been there done that!"

He was very nice about it, but he expressed NO interest.

Travis

Bemo · Post by **Bemo** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:34 am

Hmmm... well many products he carries are what I would term "fashion" jackets. Granted some of the military-inspired canvas hoodies are not made by his company, but they're still "fashion" jackets.

And to be fair, I believe Magnoli makes a version in goat.

But Sarge has the economy of scale to bring these in well under $500 usd I would think. It would be nice to have a plain-front leather jacket that is made from a durable hide instead of the paper thin lamb I see in the retail stores.

Forrest For the Trees · Mon Dec 20, 2010 11:00 am

Bemo wrote: And to be fair, I believe Magnoli makes a version in goat.

Yes, according to Magnoli's website, you could order this very jacket as a "Custom Leather Jacket" in dark brown goatskin for $595. Also, his "Open Road" jacket is very similar, and I think it runs for $475 for the goatskin. If I had to compare the horsehide to any other leather, it would be the goatskin. Very similar properties.

CM · Post by CM » Mon Dec 20, 2010 3:54 pm

Yes but good as Magnoli's things are, they are made in Asia and I would prefer a jacket like that to be US made.

Ronski · Post by **Ronski** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 6:02 pm

Beautiful jacket. I'm jealous!

Digger4Glory · Post by **Digger4Glory** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 6:19 pm

CM wrote:Yes but good as Magnoli's things are, they are made in Asia and I would prefer a jacket like that to be US made.

Anything from Magnoli, I have found is great! With that said, preference is always given by me to US products, simply because I'm an American. It is in no way meant to judge the imports. Just simple US support.

Forrest For the Trees · Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:38 pm

Thanks for the compliments, guys. I posted these photos over at the Fedora Lounge (I finally registered). They think the jacket is early 50s due to the rayon lining and plastic buttons on the cuffs. So, not quite Indy era (I'm not counting CS), but the design didn't change too much over the years from the 30s on. Of all the Hercules halfbelts still out there, this one is in impeccable shape; I feel lucky to own it.

Mitch LaRue · Post by **Mitch LaRue** » Wed Dec 22, 2010 4:41 am

Forrest For the Trees wrote:Of all the Hercules halfbelts still out there, this one is in impeccable shape...

To say nothing of how WELL it FITS you!

Seems like this jacket was meant to eventually find it's way to you, FFtT!

Oildale Jones · Post by **Oildale Jones** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:45 pm

Sorry I'm late to the thread, but I just opened the first picture link and went, "WOW." Awesome jacket. Congrats on an amazing find.

Forrest For the Trees · Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:01 am

Whoa, this all looks very familiar!

Thanks. I'll have to post some updated photos when the weather finally cools off around these parts. We're still in triple digits... The jacket is still going strong, although that vintage liner is proving to be pretty fragile around the inside of the cuffs. I need to look into having a tailor reinforce some areas, as there are some runs developing in the rayon fabric.

I'm looking forward to being able to wear that jacket again sometime soon (I hope

).