Today I received my brand new vintage 1989 never-before-worn Indiana Jones t-shirt from Intergalactic Trading Co. in Florida. Since I'm getting my Webley next week and I've already distressed my jacket in the Last Crusade style, I reshaped my fedora accordingly (although its hard to tell in this picture). Once I get my Webley, I'll have the complete LC outfit! I posted a picture of me with my new prize at my website:
http://www.geocities.com/pangaeascape/webley.html
-Dale
Vintage Last Crusade shirt!
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IndianaJames
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Indy Magnoli
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whipwarrior
Thank you for the nice words. As for the method used to achieve the look of my jacket, I will refer to the answer that I gave back in January when somebody asked me that same question. The procedure is as follows:
-Dale
Hope this is helpful!I used a variety of different methods, beginning with MK's acetone treatment, supplemented with water aging. Of these, I had two particular applications: (1) drape the jacket over a wrought iron bench and completely soak the outer leather shell with a high-pressure blast from a hose; and (2) meticulous hand buffing using ice water applied with a soft sponge. After the first, I hung the jacket in a cool, shady room to air dry (usually overnight), and following the latter, I would hand dry the leather with a towel, followed by hanging it up to dry.
The water application method was my own idea, although I cannot take credit for it, as I seem to remember reading somewhere that water can be used as a natural way to age things. Personally, I am of the opinion that water applications are healthy, as they cleanse the acetone residue from the leather, and allow it to breathe again (no more harmful than having your jacket soaked in a rainstorm). Water is the purest, most natural element on earth, provided that it comes from the sky or a Brita water filter. Also, the water helps fill out the leather, for when you initially receive your jacket from the factory, it seems incredibly flimsy and thin, much like a plastic garbage bag. Once you soak it and let dry a few times, the leather exhibits the lustre and fullness of the screen jackets.
Finally, several months after these treatments, I went over my acetone work with a very fine grade of tan sandpaper, using the previously highlighted areas as a template. Of course, I was also able to expand on that work and distress the seams to give the jacket a look that acetone is simply unable to produce. I used a thick wooden cutting board as a work surface because you can insert it inside of the jacket where needed, and stand it on end to draw the leather seams over the edges in order to sand a narrow area. This works very well when working on the back seam and the side vent seams.
You will find it necessary to pull the jacket lining tight when sanding the back surfaces of the jacket, or else the wrinkle creases will show through when you sand the leather. This is especially important around the upper shoulder panel if you're working on a newer model Wested with the leather zipper races that terminate inside the shoulders of the jacket. You will actually have to pull the lining away from its natural area and fold it into the sleeve, making sure that the material underneath is perfectly flat against your work surface.
Please keep in mind that I went over the surfaces very meticulously, and with minimal pressure, as I only wanted to chafe the surface of the leather, not grind it raw. The result is a very soft feel, almost like suede. It looks great and shows up nicely on camera. I highly recommend sandpaper for the best results, but please be careful and work at your own risk. If done properly, you will have a very handsome jacket that looks like you've owned it for years.
DISCLAIMER: Work at your own risk. Results may vary.
-Dale