
So I’m getting ready for my first Wested order. I’ve got it mostly set bar a few things I just wanted some advice on, if any of you folks can be kind enough to help out

I’ll be going with a Crusade custom: Crusade because it's the best mov- I mean, I like the style; the big pockets and snaps look lovely. Custom to get a good fit and the extras like gussets and the zipped pocket. Probably NOT Hero because sizing seems a bit more complicated to get right. I do want to put in a special request and see if I can get it with a Destiny-style collar. I love that big boy. Scalloped pockets too, those look fantastic.
Now the measurements. Please let me know if any of these look egregiously wrong...
For my own, I’m 5’7”. Haven’t weighed myself in ages but pretty slim, I think around 155lbs. Chest measures 37”ish, shoulders exactly 7”, arms exactly 25”. About 24” from base of neck to tailbone.
So for the jacket, I reckon 38” chest size. I could probably fit a 36”, but I don't know...it might get a bit tight if I put on a few layers.
Wested lists the Crusade shoulder length as 7”, so perfect if it's on tight. But I expect it to hang loose a bit when unzipped, so I’m thinking of going with 24” sleeves to account for that. Maybe 24.5"
Back length…OTR is 27”, but all my own measurements put it at about 24”/25”, measuring myself and some other jackets to where I want it to sit. Am I okay with the shorter length, or does the Crusade have some weirdness where it NEEDS a longer back length? I see it has the longest back of all OTR sizes.
Onto "cosmetics", I’m pretty set on goatskin. The lack of patina is a bit of a bummer, but I want something I can be a bit rough with and not worry too much about damaging, but also not as heavy as cow. So goat seems like the best bet…unless someone here can sway me to that beautiful “Destiny” lambskin

For the liner, which is warmer between cotton and satin? And which seems more durable these days? Old threads I’ve looked at seem a bit mixed on both counts. If in doubt, I’m leaning cotton body with satin sleeves.
And lastly, I’ve seen some talk about getting an unstitched hem. With that, is the leather just glued together? How does it hold up over time compared to stitching?
And that's it. Sorry if that’s a lot of questions. I just want to make sure I get it all right, or at least, not mess anything up too badly

Thanks, all!