CM wrote:Hi Castor - Jeepers, I remember when you were buying these and talking to Tony.
Interesting - so are you saying this collar issue is how the collar is folded rather than the actual pattern?
CM! Long time no see, how are you doing? Man, I really miss Tony, he was a fan's dream to deal with! Has it really been a decade? That's pretty insane...
What I think is that it is how the collar is folded instead of the actual pattern indeed. Or maybe it was just how Tony liked his jackets... If memory serves, all the jackets I received (and I bought quite a few) were sent with the collar sitting higher in the back.
To help put things in context: just imagine you're looking at a jacket laying on a table, with the front (chest) of the jacket facing you. Now, looking at the collar, you'll see the collar stand. The collar stand has a horizontal bar on top, and a horizontal line on the bottom, both running the length of the collar stand.
If you follow the collar stand to the zipper on both front ends of the jacket, you'll notice that where the collar connects to the collar stand, the collar stand almost turns inside out, so it is peeking out from under the jacket.
If you look at the middle of the collar stand (which is close to where Tony occasionally put his label on the back of the jacket), you'll notice that the distance from the collar stand to where the collar folds downward becomes much more significant. Like maybe a quarter of an inch.
I never thought it looked right, because with that severe a difference in how the collar was folded, it made the jacket look pretty boxy around the collar. It gave the illusion of the collar looking like a staple that had been stapled on itself.
I remember when I met Tony in person, without prompting, he looked at my collar and remarked that I should wet the collar and pull it downwards to shape it. This was with me not even asking or talking about the collar, so I guess he must have thought it didn't look right either.
But what I suggested in my initial post was a much less permanent (and potentially damaging) solution.
If you just fold the collar around the collar stand so that the entire length of the collar is the same distance from of collar to collar stand, then the look becomes much closer to what I see on screen.
Stefan Hills wrote:
Do you mean like this?
Best wishes,
Stefan
It's hard to tell from this picture, but yes Stefan, I think that looks like what I'm referring to.
Basically, a brand new Nowak would have a collar that resembled a freshly starched, high collar dress shirt.
But I think the actual KotCS jackets had a look that was somewhere between that, and the relaxed collars of the Raiders jackets (which looked like a shapeless polo shirt collar).
![Image](https://www.indygear.com/images/gear/jacket/jacket-RotLAbw.jpg)