From falls & poppers to plaiting & cracking technique, this section is dedicated in memory of Sergei, IndyGear Staff Member and Whip Guru. Always remember to keep "Celebratin' Life!"
Ah, I think the ring knot is just slightly lower than intended. It won't affect functionality, just aesthetics, give it a bit of personality even. It's gear, after all and overall it looks gorgeous.
I think Indy wouldn't care, as long as he can crack, grab and swing with it. (Swinging not recommended)
I know that this is just the aesthetic matter. But it would drive me crazy. If Croft is ok with that, then great, let him enjoy the whip
But the same goes with other gear we buy. Wouldn't it 'itch' you if the pockets on the jacket were sewn askew? Or the ribbon on hat was placed higher than it should?
Both examples wouldn't affect the functionality of the gear items. Just aesthetics...
Hmmm, for the jacket at least I agree, it wouldn't work if something is not sewn right, or not cut right, definitely!
I'm trying to imagine how it would be for a whip. The whip is definitely my favourite piece of gear. I make my own whips and there are certain aesthetic aspects I concentrate on more that others. The inconsistencies do not bother me, but it's probably because I choose them... I guess what I'm saying is... You're right! If I payed good money for a whip, it would bother me.
That's not a plaiting mistake, it's the change in pattern from checkerboard to herringbone - normally covered by the transition knot (which is in fact the only purpose of that knot) - here it's partially visible. Not a mistake and not a defect.
whiskyman wrote:That's not a plaiting mistake, it's the change in pattern from checkerboard to herringbone - normally covered by the transition knot (which is in fact the only purpose of that knot) - here it's partially visible. Not a mistake and not a defect.
I know it's a pattern change, but done pretty badly. You can see one herringbone then checkerboard again. Why is it not covered by the transition knot?
edit:
This is how properly made transition between patterns look like:
Indiana Croft wrote:Come on dude.
Stop trashing this guys work.
This is way better than cow hide close enough.
Just sayin, your raining on my parade.
As the saying goes, if don’t have any thing nice to say, don’t say anything
Croft
Glad you said it. Been watching this thread and I'm not sure what the intent of all the criticizing is. It's a very nice looking whip, and you explained very clearly what the reasons were for buying this whip specifically.. please keep posting pics and video, we love seeing them!
Croft, I know Peter Jack's work and I saw his whips. He makes superb whips and I'm just surprised that this one has flaw. Yes, this is flaw, a mistake in plaiting, because the transition between patterns should be clean and covered by the transition knot. You have paid a lot of money for that. I see that you are ok with it. Then I'm too. But potential whip customers may not know what properly whip should look like and how to check if the product they ordered is ok.
You are writing about cowhide whips. Properly made cowhide whip is just as good as roo whip.
Forum is for exchanging opinions. And I'm not bashing anybody's work or insulting anybody.
I'm trying to post a video, never did before.
It worked with a test.
But was able to get something, now I just the Misses to video tape using my phone while on Imgur.
Just don't know if the sound will be there
Hmmm, it probably depends on the operating system and on the app version you have installed. On mine it has the buttons right below the video, like this:
One bit of advice from one novice to another, when you bring your arm forward end with your straightened arm being parallel to the ground. That will allow the whip to fully unroll in the air before hitting the ground. Your hand is ending at belt level when it should be at shoulder height.
Bullwhip Dan Borton explained it to me as thinking of throwing the whip forward rather than driving it down into the ground.
Another bit of optional advice, try holding the whip 180 different where the look can easily fall out. This is the style that Anthony Delongis recommends, but there’s nothing wrong holding it the way you were.
Hold the whip with the handle vertical. The whip will have a natural bend. Find the position where the whip naturally bends over in a smooth curve pointing away from you. Then rotate the handle in your hand 180 degrees so that natural bend forms a loop when you tip the handle forward (away from you) toward horizontal. To me this feels counter intuitive, but it allows the loop to most naturally form and move down the whip creating a louder crack with less effort.
Indiana Jeff wrote:I think I know what IJJTM is saying.
Hold the whip with the handle vertical. The whip will have a natural bend. Find the position where the whip naturally bends over in a smooth curve pointing away from you. Then rotate the handle in your hand 180 degrees so that natural bend forms a loop when you tip the handle forward (away from you) toward horizontal. To me this feels counter intuitive, but it allows the loop to most naturally form and move down the whip creating a louder crack with less effort.
Croft, it looks spectacular. One of the things I consider is the "ropey-ness" of an Indy whip. My Joe Strain is, of course, lovely, but it is so tight, it doesn't coil like the film whips. Yours has a really nice flow and coils beautifully to my eyes.
Ok, just got done trying this and yes it did work, but the whip it self want to turn in my hand so to speak so the arch is in it’s natural arch heading away.
This will have to take some experimentation.
Also to crack my typical way but with arm straight out at shoulder height.