Bill Kelso's Relic Hunter

Glenville86 · Post by **Glenville86** » Thu Feb 01, 2018 4:44 pm

I have a dark seal cowhide on order.

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:07 pm

Ordered the BK in Striated lamb authentic brown. Andy was very helpful and recommended I go with the 36R based on my measurements.

Now we wait.

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Mulceber · Post by **Mulceber** » Thu Feb 01, 2018 7:27 pm

I trust Andy's judgment a long way. I think you'll find your jacket fits you perfectly. I'll look forward to seeing pics!

M

Forrest For the Trees · Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:51 am

distantpeople wrote:So what would you do if you wanted a non-lamb or goat Relic Hunter?

1) order a chromium-tanned Cowhide Dark Seal from the sort of grainy most recent batch (illustrated below)
or
2) wait for vegetable-tanned Horsehide Liberty Seal to be restocked in two or three months
http://www.billkelsomfg.com/store/en.php?p=ourleathers" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you can afford it, wait for the Liberty Seal Horsehide. Veg-tanned leathers have a ton more character than Chrome tanned.

distantpeople · Post by **distantpeople** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 6:04 am

Thanks - you do have to get used to the waiting in this pursuit I have learned over the years!

Mulceber · Post by **Mulceber** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 10:15 am

I agree - not so much because of the quality of the leathers per se, but because if you're considering waiting for the horse, that tells me that it's what you really want. And why spend hundreds of dollars on a jacket if it's not the one you really want?

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:05 pm

To those who have a BK, do you guys have cotton lining inside the arms or satin?

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Illinois James · Post by **Illinois James** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 2:40 pm

I believe they’ll do either lining in the sleeves. I like satin. Cotton drags and makes the jacket seem too tight. Just me.

Canasta · Post by **Canasta** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 2:51 pm

I'm with Illinois James.
The satin is nice in the sleeves.

distantpeople · Post by **distantpeople** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 4:59 pm

Mulceber wrote:I agree - not so much because of the quality of the leathers per se, but because if you're considering waiting for the horse, that tells me that it's what you really want. And why spend hundreds of dollars on a jacket if it's not the one you really want?

That's true. Thanks to you and everyone else so far for your suggestions!

Have an Eastman A-2 in thin walnut HH and am spoilt by it. Plus tried two Westeds which didn't work for a variety of reasons.

It's down to the BK relic hunter in Liberty HH seal and wait 3 months or Liberty HH dark seal and wait one month...

Photoss · Post by **Photoss** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 7:50 pm

senorjacob wrote:To those who have a BK, do you guys have cotton lining inside the arms or satin?
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The default is all cotton. I don't think I've seen a satin-lined Kelso, but I could be wrong.

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:11 pm

Andy told me the default is cotton so that’s what I went for. Wondering if there are others who went that way and what they think of it.

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Tibor · Post by **Tibor** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 11:07 pm

I’ve had 7 or 8 over the years, all with cotton. While satin slides on, if you like sleeves to bunch and wrinkle a bit, the cotton works better. And generally, more comfortable, less chilly. If you wear an Indy style shirt, cotton is perfect. If you wear a flannel shirt, it’s harder to get your arms through when putting it on with the cotton lining.

Forrest For the Trees · Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:33 am

Much prefer the all cotton lining.

Mulceber · Post by **Mulceber** » Sat Feb 03, 2018 12:30 pm

Satin sleeves have the benefit of being easier to get on when you have on a long sleeve garment underneath the jacket, but I find if you're wearing short sleeves, especially in warm weather when you might sweat a bit, the satin feels really weird on your skin. The BK lamb is a warm weather jacket with very little room for layering, so I think you made the right call by going for cotton. That's what I did, and I never regretted it. In fact, I think the cotton BK uses is REALLY nice, so I'm very glad I went that route.

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Sat Feb 03, 2018 5:35 pm

Cool. I have satin sleeves on my wested Hero so I’m glad I’m trying something different with my BK.

On a different note, I’m wondering if the shipping time is any faster since I didn’t get any custom changes done.

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CRB · Post by **CRB** » Wed Feb 07, 2018 2:07 pm

Some shots of the thin cow Relic seeing as Photobucket held my previous photos to ransom

Frederick · Post by **Frederick** » Mon Feb 26, 2018 4:17 pm

Ride Guy wrote:Nice Review. I have a BK Relic Hunter Cairo and concur with the more chocolate-esque color. I've found that an application of Pecard's brown tinted dressing really helps bring it closer to perceived screen color as well as help for weather proofing.

Ride Guy

Thank you Ride Guy - I have applied my Pecards to my BK and I'm very happy with the results - it took it a shade darker (less milk chocolate-like) and made a little more resistant towards unwanted stains, here are the results - Before & After (compared to my unaltered Wested Hero for comparison)

BEFORE

AFTER

afalzon · Post by **afalzon** » Tue Feb 27, 2018 4:20 am

CRB wrote:
I have a one off special made for me in thin brown cowhide. It's fantastic.

Thanks - see it as an option and was wondering if it was thin or regular weight.

The one CRB has is the "lambtouch cowhide".
The current cowhide is of regular weight

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Wed Feb 28, 2018 4:25 pm

How come there are no video reviews of the Relic Hunter? There are quite a few wested video reviews. Any of you relic hunter owners want to make a quick video review of your jacket? I would be nice to see the jacket in motion. The only way to do that now is to watch the SAS Rogue doc, which is great but still not enough!

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Frederick · Post by **Frederick** » Sun Mar 11, 2018 4:35 pm

Watch ROTLA that will give you a good indication.

I'm too camera shy, maybe when yours come you can treat us with an exposé?

senorjacob wrote:How come there are no video reviews of the Relic Hunter? There are quite a few wested video reviews. Any of you relic hunter owners want to make a quick video review of your jacket? I would be nice to see the jacket in motion. The only way to do that now is to watch the SAS Rogue doc, which is great but still not enough!

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senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Sun Mar 11, 2018 4:40 pm

I guess it’s up to me.

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xmasters · Post by **xmasters** » Mon Mar 19, 2018 11:08 am

The jacket impressed me in Rogue Warriors. Is he wearing a custom or off the rack Relic Hunter I wonder. I think it's the Cairo version he's wearing.

Photoss · Post by **Photoss** » Sat Apr 07, 2018 2:50 am

I received my goatskin seal Relic Hunter this morning, and wow, what a thing of beauty. Here's a few shots I took this morning. I would've taken some gear pics, but my hard drive decided to crash and I worked on that all day. For reference, you can see my previous goat RH on page 16 of this thread. This jacket is much more accurate in my opinion. Compared with my old one, the color is much more screen accurate, the leather is lighter in weight, the pocket flaps and collar have the perfect "Cairo" look, and it feels very smooth. My one downside would be that it's a little bit stiff right now, and has that typical plastic'y goat feeling, but both of those things should subside with use. Can't wait to put this thing to use!

Outside in direct sunlight:

Indoors, no flash:

Back (line down the middle is the fold from shipping):

Comparison with my other goat jackets, left to right, G&B, Kelso, US Wings:

pdraycott · Post by **pdraycott** » Sat Apr 07, 2018 5:21 am

Just thought I would add to this. Received mine last week. Had in made in the sirated lamb as wanted the ribby look. I have the Wested shrunken lamb also. I must the the Kelso one is my favourite... the leather if soft and supple .. no wearing it in to get that worn look ... this is the best when it comes to raiders .. that being said ..if Steele & Jones have some more merino leather available I would love to try one of those.
Pics below of Kelso jacket.

https://ibb.co/jGaQex
https://ibb.co/ikKkex
https://ibb.co/gNzkex
https://ibb.co/iSzkex

LANDINGPARTY · Post by **LANDINGPARTY** » Sun Apr 15, 2018 10:38 pm

pdraycott wrote:Just thought I would add to this. Received mine last week. Had in made in the sirated lamb as wanted the ribby look. I have the Wested shrunken lamb also. I must the the Kelso one is my favourite... the leather if soft and supple .. no wearing it in to get that worn look ... this is the best when it comes to raiders .. that being said ..if Steele & Jones have some more merino leather available I would love to try one of those.
Pics below of Kelso jacket.

https://ibb.co/jGaQex
https://ibb.co/ikKkex
https://ibb.co/gNzkex
https://ibb.co/iSzkex

I'm thinking of putting water on my Relic Hunter sleeves for the wrinkle effect. Has anyone had any issues with this? Thanks

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senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Thu Apr 26, 2018 12:12 pm

I received a shipping notice today from Andy! Anyone know how long it takes for a Relic Hunter to reach Los Angeles?

Sent from my mind

Photoss · Post by **Photoss** » Thu Apr 26, 2018 12:30 pm

senorjacob wrote:I received a shipping notice today from Andy! Anyone know how long it takes for a Relic Hunter to reach Los Angeles?

My new one arrived in San Diego in 7 days from when the email was sent to me. My previous Kelso was in US Customs for like 3 weeks though, bit the likelihood of that happening is probably small.

Canasta · Post by **Canasta** » Thu Apr 26, 2018 3:17 pm

CRB wrote:Some shots of the thin cow Relic seeing as Photobucket held my previous photos to ransom

So what color is this thin cow?
Seal, or Dark Seal?

How do you like it so far?

C

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Sun May 06, 2018 11:14 am

Jacket received!

Haven’t had time to take proper pictures but will today. Short story is... it lives up to the hype.

J

Sent from my mind

Mulceber · Post by **Mulceber** » Sun May 06, 2018 11:32 am

I'm glad you like it so much! I'll look forward to reading a full review!

Frederick · Post by **Frederick** » Sun May 06, 2018 6:01 pm

Looking good Jacob! Love that shirt too btw.

Yes - full review please! Go over with a magnifying glass and tell us your opinion! $\:D/$ $\:D/$

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Mon May 07, 2018 3:49 pm

After spending some quality cuddles with my Relic Hunter (Cairo version), I now feel I can convey some thoughts about it. Keep in mind that my only reference points are from the three previous jackets I’ve owned — a white label Magnoli thin cowhide, a NZ lambskin Wested Hero that is 25” long in the back, and another NZ lambskin Wested Hero that is 23.5” long in the back. It might also be helpful to know my measurements (I don't know if any of this is helpful but I figured I'd post it anyway):

Height 5’6”
Weight 138 lbs
Chest 36”
Shoulders 16”
Pit to pit 18”

For the purposes of keeping things simple, my main point of comparison is the Wested Hero with the 23.5" back. Measurements taken off that jacket are:

Size 36
Pit to pit 19"
Shoulders 19.5"
Back 23.5"
Sleeve 23.5"

The measurements of my Relic Hunter are:

Size 36R (no alterations)
Pit to pit 20.5"
Shoulders 18.5"
Back 22"
Sleeve 24.5"

Okay, with all of that out of the way, I thought I would follow the structure of Fredrick's comprehensive review -- though my pictures won't be as good.

Communication/Order
I don't think my experience was that different from many others' on this forum. There were times at first when it was hard to get a response from Andy. I sort of expected this based on what I'd read in this thread. So I decided to put my money down and, of course, the responses came back quicker. I wanted to let Andy know that I was serious and wasn't going to waste his time.

I sent him my measurements and talked about the Wested NZ Hero. Ultimately he advised that if I have a standard body type then I would probably do well to just order my chest size with no alterations. That is, if I wanted the Indy look, which is indeed what I wanted. I did a lot of measuring of my shoulders, of my Wested, and considered the measurements of the 36R, the 38R and even the 34R. I'm a 36 so I was zeroing in on the 36R. My main focus when considering the 36R was the back and the shoulders. I had always felt that the shoulders on my Wested were just way too off-the-shoulders for my taste, and even from what I saw onscreen. My Wested's shoulders are 19.5 and the RH is 18.5. It made sense to me that 1" inch smaller in the shoulders would be a good move.

Another consideration was the back. 22" sounds short, but my Wested always felt a little long, even at 23.5. So I took my Wested and clipped the bottom of the jack up 1.5" so as to approximate the RH back length. The result wasn't bad. And Andy sounds very confident about his proportions and all of you who have RH seem to vouch for him. So in the end I went with the 36R. I was a little bit worried that the sleeves might be too long, but I was willing to risk it and, if it became a problem, I would just take the jacket to a tailor to bring up the sleeves a bit.

The jacket arrived 13 weeks after I ordered it. It was worth the wait.

First Impressions/Fit/Color
The first thing that hit me when I took it out of the box and tried it on is that if fit me so well in the back and shoulders. Yes it still hangs a bit off the shoulders like it should, but it doesn't feel like it. With my Wested, I never felt like it fit me well.

As Fredrick mentioned, the color is different from the NZ Lamb that Wested offered as of late. It's also a little different from previous incarnations of the RH. I really love the color and have noticed the much talked about chameleon effect of it. The texture is also different from the Wested. As advertised, you don't have to do anything to make it look worn in -- it already does. And I've found that when I give the leather a little kneading, it just builds and builds more character right away.

I also noticed the 22" back right away. And I loved it right away. The proportions just seem correct and they feel right to me. I like the shortness of it -- even my wife likes it! (Which, believe me, is a testament to this jacket. My wife has tolerated this hobby just barely.) Even the length of the sleeves works for me. I was worried they'd be too long but they're not. They're just right.

A note about the Cairo collar. No matter how many times I measure the collar and compare it to the Wested, I can't seem to find any difference in the size of each. Sure, the shape is slightly different, but the width is basically the same. And yet, the RH sits completely differently on my body than the Wested -- it seems to wrap a little closer around the neck. And it looks smaller. I can't account for this AT ALL. Maybe others on this site have some insight into this, but I can't seem to put my finger on why this collar looks and feels smaller. It can't just be the rounded corners -- or maybe it is?

Jacket construction/Details
I can't say anything here that hasn't already been said by others and by Fredrick in such detail. I did find the exact same nicks on the side of the pockets. Must be part of the process of their construction. Overall though, it looks and feels very well put together. I've looked for discrepancies but have found none. The cotton lining does feel 'sturdier' (a little more coarse) than the Wested.

Summary
It's simply a fantastic jacket. I keep putting on my Wested and then putting on my RH and it feels a lot different. And yet, really, the main difference is the shoulders being 1" shorter on the RH and the back 1.5" shorter. But it feels like so much more would have to be different to account for the difference in fit. Maybe there are subtle differences in the yoke, the gussets, the armhole shape, etc? I have no idea, but when I put on the RH it looks like what I see on camera and it feels good. It doesn't have that Hero oddness, and yet it does have a bit of the off-the-shoulders thing. It's all very hard to explain... Maybe the best way to put is how a Mac person talks to a PC person and says, "Everything just works."

I would definitely order it again. I wouldn't change any of the measurements. And I feel completely satisfied in the my quest for the perfect jacket. Never say never, but I feel as though my quest is over. I may want to look into a TOD or LC jacket, but as for a Raiders jacket, this feels like the one to me.

I just also want to say that I love Wested, I love Peter, and I think Magnoli doesn't excellent work. None of this should be read as a knock on other makers. I just feel that, for me, Andy has put together the right combination of variables to make a great Raiders jacket. Everything just works. (I'm a Mac person).

Here are some pics. Some of them are low quality, and some of them aren't helpful at judging the color. Fredricks pics are better for that.

Oh God, I look like my dad:

(Mod: are these too big?)

For fun:

Thanks for everyone's input and for everyone who's posted in this thread. I've ready it a few times and it has educated me greatly.

Mulceber · Post by **Mulceber** » Mon May 07, 2018 5:48 pm

Great review and great pics! Congrats on the new jacket - it might be your last Raiders jacket, but from the way you’re talking, I have a feeling it won’t be your last BK jacket.

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Mon May 07, 2018 5:53 pm

Mulceber wrote:Great review and great pics! Congrats on the new jacket - it might be your last Raiders jacket, but from the way you’re talking, I have a feeling it won’t be your last BK jacket.

You may be right about that.

Sent from my mind

Frederick · Post by **Frederick** » Mon May 07, 2018 11:24 pm

Yes! Wow, thanks for treating us to such a great review.
I’m stoked that you’re happy after such a wait - you showed the patience of a saint and it paid off. The fit/look is 100% and sits on you just great!

Now don’t do what I did and eat a mayo sandwich while wearing it.

Enjoy! Nice hat too btw.

xmasters · Post by **xmasters** » Tue May 08, 2018 3:42 am

Great review and great fit. That's the Cario jacket to a Tee.

donovan · Post by **donovan** » Tue May 08, 2018 12:18 pm

great jacket - what struck me from your pics is the stitching , excellent job !

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Thu May 10, 2018 12:09 am

Thanks guys.

Donovan, I agree about the stitching. It’s quality work.

Here’s another hat pic:

I’m replicating the scene where Indy is on his iPhone.

Sent from my mind

Illinois Troy · Post by **Illinois Troy** » Thu May 10, 2018 1:23 am

senorjacob wrote:Jacket received!

haven’t had time to take proper pictures but will today. Short story is... it lives up to the hype.

J

Sent from my mind

Am I seeing this right? The package came from Greece? I see the address from the port of Piraeus in the left hand corner...

Mulceber · Post by **Mulceber** » Thu May 10, 2018 9:08 am

Yep - Bill Kelso is a Greece-based company founded by American ex-pats.

Tibor · Post by **Tibor** » Thu May 10, 2018 11:46 am

senorjacob wrote:

Oh God, I look like my dad:

Is your dad Robert Downey Jr.?!!! I was paging through and thought, did I miss an announcement that RDJ was the next Indy? Great post!

senorjacob · Post by **senorjacob** » Thu May 10, 2018 11:50 am

Ha! No.

I usually get Ed Norton, Kevin Spacey, or David Spade.

Sent from my mind

Frederick · Post by **Frederick** » Fri May 11, 2018 3:23 am

senorjacob wrote:Thanks guys.

Donovan, I agree about the stitching. It’s quality work.

Here’s another hat pic:

I’m replicating the scene where Indy is on his iPhone.

Sent from my mind

Haha - iPhone scene is surely a classic!

Glenville86 · Post by **Glenville86** » Sun May 13, 2018 7:30 am

Excellent review. I have had 4 of the Kelso jackets and kept 3 of them. The house HH, Seal Goat and the latest is the heavier cowhide. Parted ways with the lamb as I have found I am just not a fan of striations on the jackets. Gave the 3 or so from various makers to charity with that style.

The Kelso jackets are top notch. In my opinion, second is the S&J followed by Wested. Like others, I like the Wested ones but have received my fair share of bad QC ones in the past. QC had nothing to do with measurements but rather missing snaps, jacket linings hanging out from the sleeves and bottoms and such. They have sent me a couple that I love as well.

The Kelso jackets are worth the cost.

xmasters · Post by **xmasters** » Sun May 13, 2018 8:10 am

Would be nice to see some pictures of Relic Hunters that have been well worn and broken in.

CM · Post by CM » Tue May 15, 2018 4:38 am

senorjacob wrote:Ha! No.

I usually get Ed Norton, Kevin Spacey, or David Spade.

Sent from my mind

I was going to say you look like a thin Matthew Broderick.

pdraycott · Post by **pdraycott** » Sun Jun 03, 2018 12:02 pm

Just ordered my second relic hunter in sirated lamb. Gone for the South American version this time. This is the best raiders jacket by a mile. That leather is great..best leather jacket ever in fact.

Mulceber · Post by **Mulceber** » Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:46 pm

Does anyone know when BK will be getting their Badalassi cowhide back in stock? I was planning on getting a Badalassi jacket from them for Christmas (maybe this thread should be entitled Bill Kelso Anonymous...

) but I haven't heard back from Andy.

Canasta · Post by **Canasta** » Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:58 pm

I had a chance to try the only (at that time) Relic Hunter made in the Baddalasi Cow Hide some time ago. Really nice.