Custom Wested Raiders - too tight

[Tokoki]

First jacked...always wanted one - finally took the plunge for my birthday. Anyway...

So, read their blog on Hero vs Custom...read their "How to Measure Yourself" PDF ...read their FAQ - which states:

We make the jackets to fit your chest size, so our size 44″ was made with someone who measures a 44″ chest in mind. We add the room so you can put a jumper under your jacket and move happily without feeling like you’re in a straight jacket.
There’s enough room in our jackets to be able to move if you do order the size down but you might not be comfy, we don’t advise it. We try our best to put in the description of the item how a jackets going to fit.

Anyway...put on a vest, puffed up my chest to ensure it wouldn't be tight...and measurement were pretty much exactly 44" (it was ~43" without the vest). So, having read the FAQ, I ordered a 44" chest.

Sleeve length is perfect (26.5)...back length is too short. Ordered 26.5, but I think that because the jacket is too small, everything gets pulled up...(28" sounds like it'd be perfect).

So anyway - all this to say...got a great looking jacket, slightly darker than I expected - I ordered Authentic Brown Goatskin...thinking Authentic Brown Lambskin might have been better - although that's really not a problem. Leather is great...it looks great, and if I were to distress it, I'm sure it'd look better.

I was so excited when I got the notification it was shipped, and was excitedly waiting for it to get here...but now I'm left with something that doesn't fit me at all, and would be dinged a 25% fee if I were to return it. I was worried this'd happen - but man, when I put it on and felt it so tight...was super disappointed.

Thinking of trying to see if I can sell it locally maybe.

Will have to consider maybe buying a Hero - they say it's longer in the back...and if you have broad shoulders, it'd fit better.

Opinions on Lambskin vs Goatskin?

[Hammerklavier]

that's Wested, last time I ordered one with my chest size, it turns out too tight, so I spent $75 postage to send it back. will never buy their jacket again

[car96]

Three Wested's and everyone I custom ordered fits differently & none fit well.

The one that fits the best is the one I bought second hand from another user on here. It's not even close to my size as it is listed as a 44 but it fits better than the ones I measured as a 46/48.

[Glenville86]

I have both from different makers but personally like goatskin better. Nothing wrong with the lamb and it is a good leather for an Indy jacket.

For me, I never go with my chest size as I have a big upper body and upper arms. If I just went with my chest size, I would have a too small jacket. I have one Wested in a size 48 that fits but like to go up one size to a 50 that is perfect in the sleeve length and back length but slightly roomy in the chest.

Some folks like a form fitting jacket but I like a slightly loose fit.

[CM]

A jacket should always be 2-3 inches larger than your chest measurement. A 44 chest is a generally a 46 jacket. My chest is 40 my jackets are 42's or 44's.

But more importantly it is best practice to measure a jacket you own that fits. If you know the armpit to armpit measurement then you can order a jacket with the same dimensions. I've done this for 25 years and never had a wrong fit.

By the way, a jacket size doesn't mean anything since a 44 (for instance) can vary by up to three inches depending on the maker or even between patterns by the same maker. I have had tried size 42's that fits like a 38 or a 44. I currently own a 48 bike jacket that fits like a 42. Go figure.

[Tokoki]

A jacket should always be 2-3 inches larger than your chest measurement. A 44 chest is a generally a 46 jacket. My chest is 40 my jackets are 42's or 44's.

But more importantly it is best practice to measure a jacket you own that fits. If you know the armpit to armpit measurement then you can order a jacket with the same dimensions. I've done this for 25 years and never had a wrong fit.

By the way, a jacket size doesn't mean anything since a 44 (for instance) can vary by up to three inches depending on the maker or even between patterns by the same maker. I have had tried size 42's that fits like a 38 or a 44. I currently own a 48 bike jacket that fits like a 42. Go figure.

Lessons learned I guess. Had a feeling I should have gone with a 46 - but chest measurement is 43, so figured, with what Wested stated (that they make them bigger), that 44 would be good.

I'll try to sell locally I guess, and will probably order another one.

[Charybdis]

Sorry to hear this. My 44 fits just fine in the chest and I measure just about a 43. My goatskin fit perfect while my lambskin was a bit too long in the sleeves.

[CM]

I'd be interested to find out what your jacket pit to pit is for the 44 if your chest is 43. Would it be 25 inches or thereabouts?

[Indiego Jones]

I'd be interested to find out what your jacket pit to pit is for the 44 if your chest is 43. Would it be 25 inches or thereabouts?

This.

Jacket laid flat on floor or table, measure armpit-to-armpit, straight line, from seam to seam.-

[Glenville86]

Just an FYI on using an overarm measurement: If the over the arm measurement is 10" more than the chest, one should go up a size. Some men are broader through the shoulders than standard, and in order for the jacket not to be too snug, sizing up one size will help with the fit. I have seen tailors use this measurement for custom made suits.

[Tyrloch]

Over arm measurement: do you mean around both your chest and arms with them at your side?

[Charybdis]

My 44 measures 25 across the chest.

[Tokoki]

I'd be interested to find out what your jacket pit to pit is for the 44 if your chest is 43. Would it be 25 inches or thereabouts?

Yep...a bit over 25 inches (have the jacket w/gussets if it makes any difference)

[Glenville86]

Over arm measurement: do you mean around both your chest and arms with them at your side?

Yes. If the total measurement is 10 inches or more than your pit-to-pit measurement, you should order one size up. Athletic cut suits are made that way.

[Tokoki]

Yes. If the total measurement is 10 inches or more than your pit-to-pit measurement, you should order one size up. Athletic cut suits are made that way.

That's really good to know. Just checked...54" over the arms.

Wish they'd put that in their "How to Measure Yourself" guide.

[Tyrloch]

Yeah, me too: 41" chest and 51"+ over the arms. I gotta stop ordering size 40's!!

[Glenville86]

I really don't fault the makers that much as it is not very common for most men to come out with 10 or more inches over their pit-to-pit measurement.

Suits off the rack don't fit me very well and I have had a few custom made which made me aware of the additional measurement.

[Tyrloch]

I don't either, except when I'm debating between a 40 and a 42 and I'm steered towards the 40 because they claim it's a "roomy" jacket. I'll just chalk it up to experience and start ordering 42s from now on...

[Tokoki]

I really don't fault the makers that much as it is not very common for most men to come out with 10 or more inches over their pit-to-pit measurement.

Suits off the rack don't fit me very well and I have had a few custom made which made me aware of the additional measurement.

The only thing that bothers me a bit with this whole thing is that they have a guide on How To Measure yourself, and specifically, they have an FAQ that says:

3) “My chest measures 44″ but what size chest should I order?”

This seems like a ridiculous question but it is such a good one!
The answers pretty simple – order a size 44. We make the jackets to fit your chest size, so our size 44″ was made with someone who measures a 44″ chest in mind. We add the room so you can put a jumper under your jacket and move happily without feeling like you’re in a straight jacket.
There’s enough room in our jackets to be able to move if you do order the size down but you might not be comfy, we don’t advise it. We try our best to put in the description of the item how a jackets going to fit.

Almost makes it sound like thinking you need 46 when your chest is 43 is laughable...wish they'd mention the over the arms measurement thing - would prevent things like that in the future.

[CM]

A size 42 by Gibson and Barnes measures (25 inches across) identically to a 46 in other brands I own. This is why I always go by measurements. My size 42 Wested was 23.5 pit to pit.

The other issue is that Indy jackets tend to be worn over sized. Looser than a good fit if you were to buy a custom leather jacket by Aero, say. My Gibson and Barnes 42 is way too loose at 25 inches pit to pit but it kind works for an Indy. I would prefer a measurement of 23. And 23 inches are what all my other leather jackets measure - most labeled size 42, by the way.

If you're chest is 40 inches with a measuring tape, you want a pit to pit of 23 inches or more. If you are a 43 inches then a jacket with a 25 pit to pit will fit. As long as you are relatively trim.

If you have a large stomach and a weight issue sizing becomes very idiosyncratic. Your chest size may not be important in getting the jacket to zip up.

Indy jackets are the only garments you can still wear if they are a bit loose or baggy.

[giantthugee86]

First jacked...always wanted one - finally took the plunge for my birthday. Anyway...

So, read their blog on Hero vs Custom...read their "How to Measure Yourself" PDF ...read their FAQ - which states:

We make the jackets to fit your chest size, so our size 44″ was made with someone who measures a 44″ chest in mind. We add the room so you can put a jumper under your jacket and move happily without feeling like you’re in a straight jacket.
There’s enough room in our jackets to be able to move if you do order the size down but you might not be comfy, we don’t advise it. We try our best to put in the description of the item how a jackets going to fit.

Anyway...put on a vest, puffed up my chest to ensure it wouldn't be tight...and measurement were pretty much exactly 44" (it was ~43" without the vest). So, having read the FAQ, I ordered a 44" chest.

Sleeve length is perfect (26.5)...back length is too short. Ordered 26.5, but I think that because the jacket is too small, everything gets pulled up...(28" sounds like it'd be perfect).

So anyway - all this to say...got a great looking jacket, slightly darker than I expected - I ordered Authentic Brown Goatskin...thinking Authentic Brown Lambskin might have been better - although that's really not a problem. Leather is great...it looks great, and if I were to distress it, I'm sure it'd look better.

I was so excited when I got the notification it was shipped, and was excitedly waiting for it to get here...but now I'm left with something that doesn't fit me at all, and would be dinged a 25% fee if I were to return it. I was worried this'd happen - but man, when I put it on and felt it so tight...was super disappointed.

Thinking of trying to see if I can sell it locally maybe.

Will have to consider maybe buying a Hero - they say it's longer in the back...and if you have broad shoulders, it'd fit better.

Opinions on Lambskin vs Goatskin?

pic?

[Tokoki]

pic?

Sry - didn't even think to take a pic of the jacket I received. Already on its way back to Wested - asked for a Hero 46 in exchange...also with goatskin - I really liked the look of it.

They don't charge for shipping again on exchanges...and I won't be dinged by the taxes/duties (pretty high here in Montreal on the new jacket). So, cheaper to simply exchange.

[Tokoki]

So I finally received my exchanged jacket.

Went for the Hero, Size 46...Back/Sleeves at 26.5 (I'm 6'4")...

First impressions...

Sleeves are too tight...I'm cursed

Leather actually looks different than the previous jacket I initially received...feels thinner, more reddish, even though I asked for the same leather (Goatskin). Still looks good...although I just sent an email to Wested to confirm what leather they used just to see what they say...

[Forrest For the Trees]

That looks really good. That goatskin looks darker than the usual batch of authentic brown goat, but I really like the color you got. As to the fit, well, the hero cut is pretty unforgiving. If you are finding the arm holes to be too small or too high up, than the Last Crusade/Crystal Skull pattern would fit you better.

Anyway, from where I'm sitting, that jacket looks to be a good fit and color.

[car96]

Looks good on you, it will probably loosen up with some wear and tear and give you that great broken in leather fit.

[Nearadyn]

Wow. I just had a similar experience with Wested. I ordered a LC custom jacket in goat and measured myself very carefully. My wife double checked the measurements. When I got my jacket, it was way too tight across the chest when zipped up and it was too short especially in front. Because they charge a 20 or 25 percent restock fee (even if they messed it up) and I have to ship it all the way back to England, I would be loosing way too much money. I figured I'd be better off selling it and reordering a whole new one. I called Wested on the phone and they told me that they would email me a form for me to fill out asking for a lot more measurements. I did this, returned the form, and placed my order for my NEW new jacket. They had suggested that a Raiders one might fit me better than a LC/crystal skull one due to differences in the arm holes. So I ordered a Custom Raiders and the jacket I got fits me perfectly! I love it! But getting to this point was a nightmare and required about $600 to buy 2 jackets. I'm still trying to sell the first one that was too small. Also the new jacket seems to have been made out of different hide than the first. I asked for goat on both. But the new new one has a different texture and is lighter in color than the first. That is ok with me though as I think it actually looks better and more screen accurate.
Moral of the story: If you buy a custom jacket from wested, call them on the phone first! Ask lots of questions. Get their opinion on what jacket would fit you best. And most importantly, give them every possible measurement. Give them too many measurements! Then you'll have the best chance of them getting it right. This is not my first Indy jacket from them. I got one back in 1997. It's still in great shape after me wearing it through some real adventures for nearly 20 years. They do make a good product. But you have to make sure that they have all the measurements and info needed to get it right the first time. Hopefully I won't need to go through this process for another 20 years or so. If I do end up buying another later on, I might just fly over there, walk in their shop, and let them measure me. Then spend a week on vacation in England, pick up my jacket and fly home. I wish I had done that this time.

[Forrest For the Trees]

Sorry to hear you had a frustrating experience getting yourself a Wested that fit. That's the way it is with mail order custom jackets though. As you say, visiting the barn for a proper fitting would be ideal (and more fun!). The good news is, now you know for any future orders.

[whipwarrior]

I'm lucky enough to have never received an ill-fitting jacket from Wested, speaking as a brand-loyal customer since 1998. Earlier this year I ordered a Raiders Hero, and despite the noticeably narrower sleeves, it fits as well as every other Indy jacket. Initially, the thing you notice most about the Hero is how the high sleeves cut into your armpits, whereas the standard modern fit Wested is more relaxed. But the more I wear the Hero, the less I notice the fit of the sleeves. You just have to get comfortable in your new skin, so to speak. Once the jacket adapts to your body shape, it will gradually loosen up and fit you as comfortable as a pair of well-worn jeans or shoes.

[Glenville86]

Only issue I have had with my Hero in horsehide is I put it on a few days ago and the left interior arm felt wrong putting my arm in. Turned the sleeve inside out and noticed my watch had torn the liner stitching about 7 inches on the seam. This was the 3rd time I had worn it. Easy fix for a few dollars at the tailor. I just had them fix the actual tear and not do a major fix like they could have done.

So - be careful with those tight sleeves and jewelry/watches when putting the jacket on.

[Nearadyn]

That's good to know about tearing the sleeve liner with your watch. What type of liner is in your sleeves? Is it the silk stuff or the cotton? I always go for full cotton in my Indy jackets. This is because I also got a replica German U-Boat officer's jacket from Wested. They call it the Dr. Who jacket since a Doctor Who once wore one in the show. It's lined completely with the silk liner. I carry a multitool in a pouch on my belt and usually carry a pistol as well. Both the multitool pouch and pistol holster have SHREDDED the liner around my waist on both sides. I was thinking of sending it back to Wested along with a few yards of ripstop cotton material like that used on US BDU uniforms, and telling them to line my jacket with that to try and solve the problem. I haven't had this problem with my cotton lined Indy jackets. So I bet cotton lined sleeves would do much better when wearing sharp jewelry. Just a theory though.

[Glenville86]

That's good to know about tearing the sleeve liner with your watch. What type of liner is in your sleeves? Is it the silk stuff or the cotton? I always go for full cotton in my Indy jackets. This is because I also got a replica German U-Boat officer's jacket from Wested. They call it the Dr. Who jacket since a Doctor Who once wore one in the show. It's lined completely with the silk liner. I carry a multitool in a pouch on my belt and usually carry a pistol as well. Both the multitool pouch and pistol holster have SHREDDED the liner around my waist on both sides. I was thinking of sending it back to Wested along with a few yards of ripstop cotton material like that used on US BDU uniforms, and telling them to line my jacket with that to try and solve the problem. I haven't had this problem with my cotton lined Indy jackets. So I bet cotton lined sleeves would do much better when wearing sharp jewelry. Just a theory though.

The lining is all cotton. My watch is just a cheap Timex Expedition which has some edges on the face plate.......

[Kladdagh]

The jacket seems good to me ...

[xmasters]

Reading this thread is interesting information. I recently ordered two hero jackets one size 38 lambskin and one size 40 goatskin. One thing particularly noticeable is the way the sleeves have sized up between them, more noticeable than the pit to pit difference. I think the size 38 sleeves are slightly too 'skinny' to be screen accurate. HF was a size 40 chest back in 1981, and it's quite possible his jacket was made for him as a 41-2 size. My size 40 Hero jacket look exactly screen accurately right, to me, but I prefer the 38 lambskin which is more comfortable and stretchy and I think I got some shrinkage on my Goatskin Hero after shower treatment, so it doesn't feel comfortable in the body compared to the lambskin.

The OTR Raiders jackets are different completely. A 38 fits more like a 40 and a 40 = 42. I measure exactly 38 and if I order a Wested that size it fits, obviously this isn't the case for everyone.

[yellowduke]

So I finally received my exchanged jacket.

Went for the Hero, Size 46...Back/Sleeves at 26.5 (I'm 6'4")...

First impressions...

Sleeves are too tight...I'm cursed

Leather actually looks different than the previous jacket I initially received...feels thinner, more reddish, even though I asked for the same leather (Goatskin). Still looks good...although I just sent an email to Wested to confirm what leather they used just to see what they say...

That looks spot on for a Hero jacket. Thing about leather is that each skin is unique so differences should be expected between jackets. I visited the barn to select my jackets and it was very apparent how different jackets can be even though the leather type was the same.

[Michaelson]

Since those photos and report were posted last November, I wonder if there has been any changes in fit and opinion of the jacket?

Regard! Michaelson

[Marv]

Looks great to me, good fit and SA hide colour. I recently got a Hero in the shrunken lamb (size 44") but spent a lot of time of the forum, researching and asking questions.

The help was exceptional, firstly asking members if they had the same size jacket for measurements and also emailed Wested for a sample of their current shrunken lamb to make sure I got the shade that I required.

All turned out very well and Wested made me an excellent Hero jacket, which has not been off my back since receiving it about month ago.

[Tokoki]

Since those photos and report were posted last November, I wonder if there has been any changes in fit and opinion of the jacket?

Regard! Michaelson

Yeah - I actually went ahead and got myself a Lambskin Last Crusade jacket instead...Posted about it in this thread:

http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66803" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Still have my Hero hanging in the closet ... much prefer the lambskin - been wearing my newest jacket pretty much every day since I got it.

[Michaelson]

Some times (make that MOST of the time) jackets will take on the shape and size of it's owner, but only after a period of time in daily wear and use.

I was hoping we'd hear of a report AFTER several months of field wear.

From all appearances, I expected yours to settle right in and we'd see a much changed jacket from last November.

Hanging in the closet, though, there will be no change.

Ah well.

Regards! M

[Marv]

Some times (make that MOST of the time) jackets will take on the shape and size of it's owner, but only after a period of time in daily wear and use.

I was hoping we'd hear of a report AFTER several months of field wear.

From all appearances, I expected yours to settle right in and we'd see a much changed jacket from last November.

Hanging in the closet, though, there will be no change.

Ah well.

Regards! M

I agree, shame no wear was put on the jacket as once goatskin starts to break in it becomes buttery soft and develops super grain plus, with a hot water treatment and just wearing the jacket until dry would give you that individual drape, shape and feel.

However, if you are pleased with your LC in lambskin then wear it and enjoy