KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Moderators: Mike, Cajunkraut, Tennessee Smith
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Here's the steps I've taken to create my own custom "HJ" label for my CS backpack (German Army alpine rucksack).
My rucksack was purchased from COW member nihil and is the Mil-Tec reproduction.
I went with my own initials of "LN" since this is my pack and not Henry's.
I picked up some Tandy Leather products locally at JoAnn's fabrics initially, and then made a trip to the Tandy Leather store in Tacoma, WA for some tools, dye etc. JoAnn's had the leather sheet, needles and waxed thread.
I found this font in my vast library of fonts, I'm a graphic designer by profession.
It's very similar to what COW member Tundrarider (Michael) used on his.
I rather like the history of the font when I looked it up.
Released by the Barnhart Brothers & Spindler foundry of Chicago in 1922, it is a heavy version of Cooper Oldstyle, also known as Cooper.
I went ahead and laid the art out in InDesign.
It helped me know where to punch the thread holes and cut the letters.
I didn't know about wetting (casing) leather to trace on the letters and make cutting easier before I got going, so this tutorial will be updated should I created another.
Definitely go that route because it's so much easier.
This PDF has the artwork and can be printed at 100% to give you the correct size label.
The label size according to Michael is, 1-5/8"h x 2-5/8"w.
At first the letters were solid black but after learning about "casing" and tracing onto the leather, I changed them to outlines for easier tracing.
http://cyberwerks.net/Indy/Bags-Straps/ ... kLabel.pdf
After cutting out the label and sheet leather to match, I tacked them to a piece of fiberboard and box using pushpins. This held everything very snug while I was cutting and punching.
I used an Exacto knife with a thin point so it would cut and turn on angles better
Update: I learned about wetting leather and drawing on it to cut. See at the end of this tutorial.
After the letters were cut, I continued to punch the holes using the pushpins.
I used quite a few pins to keep everything snug in place, leap frogging from one hole to the next.
I made sure the point of the pin was going into the center of the dots so everything would line up nicely in appearance.
Update: I started using an stabbing awl to punch the majority of holes. I still use 4 pushpins in the 4 corners to keep the artwork in place.
After removing the paper template I went back and made sure the lines were cut completely and to a consistent depth.
Update: after learning about casing the leather its a lot easier to cut wet leather.
I'm going to experiment with dyeing on other pieces of leather from the sheet.
The sheet was 8" x 10" so you have lots to experiment with.
I went by Tandy's Leather and picked up some tools and a starter kit.
I practiced with the 6 stamping tools on some floral projects (my first try at leather craft.
This practice got me very familiar with how the tools work and when I got to beveling the edges of the letters it was a piece of cake.
Here are my results.
The darkness around the letters is caused by the "casing" technique of the leather to make it stamp easier and stay that way.
It kind of turns it clay-like.
Michael had recommended using acrylic paint but the kit came with some leather dyes so I first tried them.
The dye is so translucent that you just can't get the solid color of the straps.
My wife had some acrylic paints she uses for glass painting so I used some brown, green, tan and white to mix an olive color to match the straps.
There was a strange reaction using the acrylic over the water-based dye which caused an instantaneous antique cracking effect.
The dye was completely dry (2 days) but the moisture in the paint must have reacted with it.
I actually kind of like it.
Sewing on the Label
I applied some leather cement onto the center of the back of the label, and glued it in place, so while I was sewing the label it wouldn't move on me.
Be sure too keep the glue away from the edges so it doesn't ooze out onto the bag when you go to press it into place.
After it dried, I used a leather awl to poke holes through the label holes, the bag's canvas, plastic lining and into a cardboard box it was sitting on.
This allowed me to work the needle through these existing holes since these types of needles have blunt ends (than goodness).
I sewed on the label using the standard two needle saddle stitch technique.
Here's a good video to show the two needle saddle stitch. It starts at 2:57 into the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qi3BRWO7 ... POFrVcru0o
I read to use 4x the thread of the length of what you are sewing.
The perimeter of the label is roughly 3"x2" so I came up with 10" x 4 = 40" of thread.
I cut about 43" of thread and had just enough left over, after back stitching a few more holes and tying it off.
I used some basic pliers to pull the needles through after I got them worked through the holes by hand.
Your finger tips quickly wear out pulling the knots at the ends of the needles after awhile.
I'd rather have the holes small then large and sloppy for the thread. Everything snugged up nicely.
I cut the ends of the thread leaving about 1/8" from the knot and then burned the ends until they melted to the knot. This prevents unraveling of the thread.
The thread is the Tandy white waxed.
I used some Kiwi brown shoe paste polish on the end of my finger to rub into the thread to darken it.
It's waxy enough to mix with the wax on the thread.
I figured dye might not hold.
more photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 479842133/
Hope you find this experience helpful in creating your own custom label.
Cheers
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Update: Since doing this tutorial I learned about "wetting" leather.
1. The technique is to glue the leather onto some chipboard (cardboard like from the back of a writing tablet). The chipboard prevents the leather from stretching while stamping it and also gives you something to maneuver it without touching the leather (less marks).
2. Wet the leather with a soaked sponge until the water no longer soaks into the leather.
3. Let the surface dry to it's natural color and use the "ball end" clay tool to trace the letters onto the leather. The letters will show up as dark lines because when the tool presses down it goes into the still wet leather just under the surface.
4. Cut the letters which is also WAY easier to do when the leather has been wetted.
5. Bevel stamp the letters while the leather is still wet.
6. Let it dry and either paint or stain and seal the leather with clear leather sealer.
My rucksack was purchased from COW member nihil and is the Mil-Tec reproduction.
I went with my own initials of "LN" since this is my pack and not Henry's.
I picked up some Tandy Leather products locally at JoAnn's fabrics initially, and then made a trip to the Tandy Leather store in Tacoma, WA for some tools, dye etc. JoAnn's had the leather sheet, needles and waxed thread.
I found this font in my vast library of fonts, I'm a graphic designer by profession.
It's very similar to what COW member Tundrarider (Michael) used on his.
I rather like the history of the font when I looked it up.
Released by the Barnhart Brothers & Spindler foundry of Chicago in 1922, it is a heavy version of Cooper Oldstyle, also known as Cooper.
I went ahead and laid the art out in InDesign.
It helped me know where to punch the thread holes and cut the letters.
I didn't know about wetting (casing) leather to trace on the letters and make cutting easier before I got going, so this tutorial will be updated should I created another.
Definitely go that route because it's so much easier.
This PDF has the artwork and can be printed at 100% to give you the correct size label.
The label size according to Michael is, 1-5/8"h x 2-5/8"w.
At first the letters were solid black but after learning about "casing" and tracing onto the leather, I changed them to outlines for easier tracing.
http://cyberwerks.net/Indy/Bags-Straps/ ... kLabel.pdf
After cutting out the label and sheet leather to match, I tacked them to a piece of fiberboard and box using pushpins. This held everything very snug while I was cutting and punching.
I used an Exacto knife with a thin point so it would cut and turn on angles better
Update: I learned about wetting leather and drawing on it to cut. See at the end of this tutorial.
After the letters were cut, I continued to punch the holes using the pushpins.
I used quite a few pins to keep everything snug in place, leap frogging from one hole to the next.
I made sure the point of the pin was going into the center of the dots so everything would line up nicely in appearance.
Update: I started using an stabbing awl to punch the majority of holes. I still use 4 pushpins in the 4 corners to keep the artwork in place.
After removing the paper template I went back and made sure the lines were cut completely and to a consistent depth.
Update: after learning about casing the leather its a lot easier to cut wet leather.
I'm going to experiment with dyeing on other pieces of leather from the sheet.
The sheet was 8" x 10" so you have lots to experiment with.
I went by Tandy's Leather and picked up some tools and a starter kit.
I practiced with the 6 stamping tools on some floral projects (my first try at leather craft.
This practice got me very familiar with how the tools work and when I got to beveling the edges of the letters it was a piece of cake.
Here are my results.
The darkness around the letters is caused by the "casing" technique of the leather to make it stamp easier and stay that way.
It kind of turns it clay-like.
Michael had recommended using acrylic paint but the kit came with some leather dyes so I first tried them.
The dye is so translucent that you just can't get the solid color of the straps.
My wife had some acrylic paints she uses for glass painting so I used some brown, green, tan and white to mix an olive color to match the straps.
There was a strange reaction using the acrylic over the water-based dye which caused an instantaneous antique cracking effect.
The dye was completely dry (2 days) but the moisture in the paint must have reacted with it.
I actually kind of like it.
Sewing on the Label
I applied some leather cement onto the center of the back of the label, and glued it in place, so while I was sewing the label it wouldn't move on me.
Be sure too keep the glue away from the edges so it doesn't ooze out onto the bag when you go to press it into place.
After it dried, I used a leather awl to poke holes through the label holes, the bag's canvas, plastic lining and into a cardboard box it was sitting on.
This allowed me to work the needle through these existing holes since these types of needles have blunt ends (than goodness).
I sewed on the label using the standard two needle saddle stitch technique.
Here's a good video to show the two needle saddle stitch. It starts at 2:57 into the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qi3BRWO7 ... POFrVcru0o
I read to use 4x the thread of the length of what you are sewing.
The perimeter of the label is roughly 3"x2" so I came up with 10" x 4 = 40" of thread.
I cut about 43" of thread and had just enough left over, after back stitching a few more holes and tying it off.
I used some basic pliers to pull the needles through after I got them worked through the holes by hand.
Your finger tips quickly wear out pulling the knots at the ends of the needles after awhile.
I'd rather have the holes small then large and sloppy for the thread. Everything snugged up nicely.
I cut the ends of the thread leaving about 1/8" from the knot and then burned the ends until they melted to the knot. This prevents unraveling of the thread.
The thread is the Tandy white waxed.
I used some Kiwi brown shoe paste polish on the end of my finger to rub into the thread to darken it.
It's waxy enough to mix with the wax on the thread.
I figured dye might not hold.
more photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 479842133/
Hope you find this experience helpful in creating your own custom label.
Cheers
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Update: Since doing this tutorial I learned about "wetting" leather.
1. The technique is to glue the leather onto some chipboard (cardboard like from the back of a writing tablet). The chipboard prevents the leather from stretching while stamping it and also gives you something to maneuver it without touching the leather (less marks).
2. Wet the leather with a soaked sponge until the water no longer soaks into the leather.
3. Let the surface dry to it's natural color and use the "ball end" clay tool to trace the letters onto the leather. The letters will show up as dark lines because when the tool presses down it goes into the still wet leather just under the surface.
4. Cut the letters which is also WAY easier to do when the leather has been wetted.
5. Bevel stamp the letters while the leather is still wet.
6. Let it dry and either paint or stain and seal the leather with clear leather sealer.
Last edited by lantzn on Thu Oct 31, 2013 2:57 am, edited 16 times in total.
- Kt Templar
- Legendary Adventurer
- Posts: 4715
- Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 4:32 am
- Location: London.
Re: My CS rucksack custom label
Cool tutorial, and I like the pushpin idea!
But Cooper Black!!
How about a nice bit of Eurostyle?
But Cooper Black!!
How about a nice bit of Eurostyle?
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: My CS rucksack custom label
Tundrarider was using a stamp from Tandy when he made his label. He said he had to tweak the "H" because he didn't like it. I like his end results and was trying to find something ask close to it as I could (and already had). The "HJ" label in the film is very hard so see clearly so we really don't have a way to duplicate it accurately. If we had a good straight on shot I would probably try and duplicate it as is American, Euro or not.Kt Templar wrote:Cool tutorial, and I like the pushpin idea!
But Cooper Black!!
How about a nice bit of Eurostyle?
Did you have a font in mind?
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: My CS rucksack custom label
Thanks Michael, are you using the tool with the small ball on the tip to push the edges down around the letter borders?
I picked up a bunch of Rit dyes in the brown, green range. I'm going to test it on some scrape leather to see if I can get results. I wonder how similar clothes dye is to leather dye? The constancy of the Rit looks just like what I see in the Tandy dyeing videos. I guess we'll see. If it works then that would be great since Rit is everywhere.
I picked up a bunch of Rit dyes in the brown, green range. I'm going to test it on some scrape leather to see if I can get results. I wonder how similar clothes dye is to leather dye? The constancy of the Rit looks just like what I see in the Tandy dyeing videos. I guess we'll see. If it works then that would be great since Rit is everywhere.
- Kt Templar
- Legendary Adventurer
- Posts: 4715
- Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 4:32 am
- Location: London.
Re: My CS rucksack custom label
Don't mind me a little euro font humour.lantzn wrote:Tundrarider was using a stamp from Tandy when he made his label. He said he had to tweak the "H" because he didn't like it. I like his end results and was trying to find something ask close to it as I could (and already had). The "HJ" label in the film is very hard so see clearly so we really don't have a way to duplicate it accurately. If we had a good straight on shot I would probably try and duplicate it as is American, Euro or not.Kt Templar wrote:Cool tutorial, and I like the pushpin idea!
But Cooper Black!!
How about a nice bit of Eurostyle?
Did you have a font in mind?
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: My CS rucksack custom label
Here's the projects I practiced on to become familiar with the tools. The dyed brown floral was my first ever leather project. I'm still finishing up on the second floral one but jumped over to finish the label.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 9530201840
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 9530201840
Last edited by lantzn on Tue Jan 29, 2013 2:03 am, edited 3 times in total.
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
Wow! Very impressive
If I were only half as good with leatherwork..
If I were only half as good with leatherwork..
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
Thanks. I'm really liking this leather craft stuff. I'd like to do some custom book cover, knife sheaths, holsters and other small items. I think a dragon would be cool. I've always had a lot of patience and this hobby can be done indoors and not seasonal like so many others of mine.
- darthinvictus
- Dig Leader
- Posts: 676
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 4:23 pm
- Location: Tucker georgia
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
Very cool!
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
Thanks Michael! Yeah I'm going to try and duplicate that cracking effect on a scrape piece of leather to see if I can re-create it for other projects. Funny how a mishap turned out to be so cool.
Finally finished my label tonight! There really is a lot of work in such a small looking project. Now that I've learned from friends, books and online many new techniques I imagine it wouldn't take as long. It was a fun project and introduced me to a new hobby, leather craft. There's some very cool project out there.
Cheers
Finally finished my label tonight! There really is a lot of work in such a small looking project. Now that I've learned from friends, books and online many new techniques I imagine it wouldn't take as long. It was a fun project and introduced me to a new hobby, leather craft. There's some very cool project out there.
Cheers
- auntsugar
- Dig Leader
- Posts: 423
- Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2002 8:57 pm
- Location: Back at the workbench....tinkering--always tinkering.
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
Wow! Thanks for taking the time to do a nice tut and sharing! Great results.
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
I made this for COW member Scotty and since I didn't have his bag I took the picture of it sitting on the top of my label on my bag. He just received it and will be sewing it on using the wax thread I sent with it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 530201840/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 530201840/
Last edited by lantzn on Tue Jan 29, 2013 2:07 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
Yeah....
lantzn did a great job. He got it to me very quickly and for very little money.
Sewing it on was a pain in the ### though. I broke one needle.
It was worth it though.... I think it looks great.
If he makes anyone else a label, I suggest sending him your rucksack. ha ha
I needed mine cuz I use it for school.
Scotty
Would love to post a pic, but for some reason it won't....
lantzn did a great job. He got it to me very quickly and for very little money.
Sewing it on was a pain in the ### though. I broke one needle.
It was worth it though.... I think it looks great.
If he makes anyone else a label, I suggest sending him your rucksack. ha ha
I needed mine cuz I use it for school.
Scotty
Would love to post a pic, but for some reason it won't....
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
I just finished this for member Chamorro. Again his label is sitting on my bag since I will be shipping it to him to sew on himself.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 530201840/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 530201840/
Last edited by lantzn on Tue Jan 29, 2013 2:08 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
Sewing it on today as per the video. Great job! The label is awesome!
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
Done! That was fun ...
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
Very nice! The stitching really does add to the whole look.
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: My version of Indy backpack "HJ" label
I'm working on a couple of identical bags for a member. I just finished this one and still have to sew on the other. The letters don't look as white as they do in the pictures. I gave them a rough, crackly texture on the paint and the whole label was lightly distressed with a very fine sandpaper.
He's asked me to make longer straps for the arms straps so I'm figuring out what's needed for that project.
He's asked me to make longer straps for the arms straps so I'm figuring out what's needed for that project.
Last edited by lantzn on Thu Jan 24, 2013 2:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Okay, all I can say is wow. This thread has inspired me to make my own. I'm just thankful there are you guys I can follow. Thank you so much.
Steven
Steven
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
CJ Label and ST Label for Indy506
I just finished a couple more labels for members. The CJ label was for a very used original bag and the ST label was for a bag I did not have which the owner said was olive with light brown straps. It's just sitting on one of my bags. I gave it an antique look for the background which is hard to see from a distant.
Last edited by lantzn on Thu Oct 31, 2013 3:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Thanks Michael. That ST label is my fav and just may use that combo on my MFH bag (the one it's sitting on).
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
ST Label for Indy508
Here's a new label for a customer's MFH bag. It's sitting on my MFH bag because he's going to sew it onto his bag when he gets it. I did the background to match the rubber bottom and straps and the letters to match the canvas.
Last edited by lantzn on Thu Oct 31, 2013 3:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
'
Last edited by lantzn on Thu Oct 31, 2013 3:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Thanks Michael,
I'm heading down to Oregon for a week off and plan on stopping by Oregon Leather Co. in Eugene. I'm hoping to find some pre-painted leather in a olive drab color so I can make some long arm straps for this bag like I did with my Mil-Tec bag. This MFH bag is my favorite both in color and build. I like being able to carry the bag easily over one shoulder as Indy did in the film and the long strap is the way to go.
I'm heading down to Oregon for a week off and plan on stopping by Oregon Leather Co. in Eugene. I'm hoping to find some pre-painted leather in a olive drab color so I can make some long arm straps for this bag like I did with my Mil-Tec bag. This MFH bag is my favorite both in color and build. I like being able to carry the bag easily over one shoulder as Indy did in the film and the long strap is the way to go.
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
IndyTaz HJ Label
I just sent this off to IndyTaz in Australia.
Thanks matey!
Thanks matey!
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Long Straps
These are the specs for my long straps.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 479842133/
- Thick Leather
Beveled Edges
Large Holes to fit even the thickest pins
Pre-Punched Thread Holes using a diamond shaped awl
Thread Channel so thread doesn't wear
Two Coats Cream Paint
Two Coats Green Paint
One Coat Satin Sealer
Distressed - Optional (left strap stressed more since that is how Indy carried it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@N ... 479842133/
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Just finished these for Magnum.
This is the new MFH bag in green canvas.
This is the new MFH bag in green canvas.
Last edited by lantzn on Tue Mar 04, 2014 1:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
j_m_t's bag
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
It looks like the bags are back in stock.
http://www.military1st.co.uk/30303b-ger ... olive.html
http://www.military1st.co.uk/30303b-ger ... olive.html
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Doggone it! I was gonna wait until http://www.military1st.co.uk/30303b-ger ... olive.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; arrived and surprise everyone with a review...
I had to buy a used pad, elsewhere- the new pads are not expensive but the shipping makes them so...
If you try to buy the ruck from a German site, be sitting down when you see the shipping... The site I tried did not show shipping at all, just sort of slipped it in on the Paypal page. Like hiding a coconut under a Kleenex...!!!
I had to buy a used pad, elsewhere- the new pads are not expensive but the shipping makes them so...
If you try to buy the ruck from a German site, be sitting down when you see the shipping... The site I tried did not show shipping at all, just sort of slipped it in on the Paypal page. Like hiding a coconut under a Kleenex...!!!
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
So you bought a bag from the new batch? if so I'm curious to see what color canvas they used this time around. When I bought mine years ago it was a brown or color the more recent ones before they ran out of stock is a greenish color. You can see that in the pictures above.
I'll be anxious to see your review.
I'll be anxious to see your review.
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Oh and hopefully someone can get one of the American stores to carry these bags.
Is anyone still carrying the Mil-Tec bag?
Is anyone still carrying the Mil-Tec bag?
KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
As far as actual usefulness can anyone give me some info on durability and ridgidness? I know it is a surplus item and was issued but I plan to use it for extended hunts in the mountains. This fall I will be packing in pretty heavy but we are doing an old fashioned hunt. Hence why I dont want some REI bag. Straps look kinda thin, so they bite into you? And does the bag sag? I assume I could make a simple type frame. Thoughts?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack
The bags from MFH look similar to the original issue bags but are built way more tougher than those. The canvases heavier the straps are thicker. The straps on them that go over your arms are shorter but as you can see in my other thread I make a longer set of them to install on the bag similar to what they did in the movie. So therefore straps can be whatever thickness you want. You cut the thread, separate the leather straps from the upper canvas strap and then handstitch on the longer leather straps.ChrisMD wrote:As far as actual usefulness can anyone give me some info on durability and ridgidness? I know it is a surplus item and was issued but I plan to use it for extended hunts in the mountains. This fall I will be packing in pretty heavy but we are doing an old fashioned hunt. Hence why I dont want some REI bag. Straps look kinda thin, so they bite into you? And does the bag sag? I assume I could make a simple type frame. Thoughts?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This photo shows the thickness between the stock straps on the Mil-Tec and the MFH bags. Both bags are reproductions. The MFH is on the right and has the much heavier leather.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@ ... 479842133/
Last edited by lantzn on Fri Feb 06, 2015 3:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Indiana Jeff
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10204
- Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 1:59 am
- Location: TX Panhandle
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
I have an original issue model and the bag has no structure at all. Left empty it puddles to the floor. In one of these threads, I think it's the other one on these backpacks, there was a link to buy the sleep pad that were originally issued that fits into an internal pocket. That would give some structure, but not like a framed bag.
I don't find the straps comfortable at all if the bag is really loaded. And the bag is big enough it can get loaded up pretty heavy. The straps are cotton webbing and with a full load do bite into the shoulders and under the arms. When I first got my backpack I used it for a few trips and found I did not like carrying it at all. On those trips in particular I was rarely wearing a jacket so if you were to put the pack on with the added padding of a jacket it may be more comfortable. I've since relegated my Indy backpack to a cool prop/costume piece, but have other 'technical/tactical' backpacks for real world use.
The other thing to consider is waterproofing. My bag isn't beyond the extent of tightly woven canvas. I could treat it with some water proofing, but as I don't plan on using it in that way haven't bothered investigating options.
Regards,
Indiana Jeff
I don't find the straps comfortable at all if the bag is really loaded. And the bag is big enough it can get loaded up pretty heavy. The straps are cotton webbing and with a full load do bite into the shoulders and under the arms. When I first got my backpack I used it for a few trips and found I did not like carrying it at all. On those trips in particular I was rarely wearing a jacket so if you were to put the pack on with the added padding of a jacket it may be more comfortable. I've since relegated my Indy backpack to a cool prop/costume piece, but have other 'technical/tactical' backpacks for real world use.
The other thing to consider is waterproofing. My bag isn't beyond the extent of tightly woven canvas. I could treat it with some water proofing, but as I don't plan on using it in that way haven't bothered investigating options.
Regards,
Indiana Jeff
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
I forgot to mention the MFH bags do come with additional strap pads. The pads slip over the straps and are removable so you could beef them up even more if needed.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@ ... 479842133/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@ ... 479842133/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@ ... 479842133/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@ ... 479842133/
- Indiana Jeff
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10204
- Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 1:59 am
- Location: TX Panhandle
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
I likewise forgot to mention the pads. I have them and still found the straps uncomfortable.
Regards,
Indiana Jeff
Regards,
Indiana Jeff
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
My ruck arrived. It's green, and in basic structure seems tough. Good stitching.
But it is not a replica of the old bag in every way. There is nylon here and there, and Velcro (!) used to hold the sleeping bag pouch shut. And the pouch is made of a cloth resembling handkerchiefs. Good enough, I guess; a pouch to hold a foam pad won't need Kevlar.
Once I slid my pad in place, it seemed to have enough structure. It has two places, about where your kidneys would be, where a strap could be connected- perhaps for a belt. The straps on the back are well riveted in place, and it is done so that stuff could be hung up on them- not sure what; perhaps a bedroll, bivy, or tent.
I got my pad, used, from a place in the UK called "flecktarn". Not too outrageous even with shipping, and I had to look close to see it wasn't new. It's about as thick as cardboard. I am going to try and find a place that will cut me a similar size piece of aluminum as the folded pad, radius the corners, and drill paracord-sized holes in each corner. Hang it between two trees hammockwise for a field table, let it give real structure to the pack, maybe make one side a signalling mirror... Tomorrow I'll get a 2-liter of pop and find out how they fit the side pockets. I have some 42-oz. aluminum bottles on order from sciplus that may fit, too.
My go-to waterproofing is Atsko Silicone Water-Guard. Reasonable, and works... but not at 15 degrees, so I will have to wait on that.
The ruck itself is MFH #30303B, and the UPC is 4-044633-036223 and should not be all that hard to find. I'd trade for an original in brown, but am pleased with it as it is...
But it is not a replica of the old bag in every way. There is nylon here and there, and Velcro (!) used to hold the sleeping bag pouch shut. And the pouch is made of a cloth resembling handkerchiefs. Good enough, I guess; a pouch to hold a foam pad won't need Kevlar.
Once I slid my pad in place, it seemed to have enough structure. It has two places, about where your kidneys would be, where a strap could be connected- perhaps for a belt. The straps on the back are well riveted in place, and it is done so that stuff could be hung up on them- not sure what; perhaps a bedroll, bivy, or tent.
I got my pad, used, from a place in the UK called "flecktarn". Not too outrageous even with shipping, and I had to look close to see it wasn't new. It's about as thick as cardboard. I am going to try and find a place that will cut me a similar size piece of aluminum as the folded pad, radius the corners, and drill paracord-sized holes in each corner. Hang it between two trees hammockwise for a field table, let it give real structure to the pack, maybe make one side a signalling mirror... Tomorrow I'll get a 2-liter of pop and find out how they fit the side pockets. I have some 42-oz. aluminum bottles on order from sciplus that may fit, too.
My go-to waterproofing is Atsko Silicone Water-Guard. Reasonable, and works... but not at 15 degrees, so I will have to wait on that.
The ruck itself is MFH #30303B, and the UPC is 4-044633-036223 and should not be all that hard to find. I'd trade for an original in brown, but am pleased with it as it is...
- Mountaineer
- Dig Leader
- Posts: 584
- Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:52 pm
- Location: Once the mountains; now the seaside.
Re: KotCS backpack
If you want to go with old-school looks but you want to save yourself the time and headache of converting the bag, just get a Swiss Waterproof Ruck. (Link HERE)ChrisMD wrote:As far as actual usefulness can anyone give me some info on durability and ridgidness? I know it is a surplus item and was issued but I plan to use it for extended hunts in the mountains. This fall I will be packing in pretty heavy but we are doing an old fashioned hunt. Hence why I dont want some REI bag. Straps look kinda thin, so they bite into you? And does the bag sag? I assume I could make a simple type frame. Thoughts?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I carried one of these through college and its rubberized shell survived all the walks to classes in the rain Mother Nature could throw at it. I wasn't an umbrella user, just dry suits, and I never had a problem with my books/papers getting wet. I still have it actually; I like it so much I've kept it all these years.
Its straps are adjustable and I found them comfortable. Best of all, it's already got the frame you're looking for built in. The built-in frame and leather kidney pad work very well distributing the load.There are limited lashing points on the exterior where you can add things should you need.
If you want added waterproofing to what you're going to be carrying, use dry bags and you'd be good to go.
- getoutofthelibrary
- Archaeology Student
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2011 12:04 am
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Ordered one of these yesterday...have a kid in one of my classes that works with leather (as do I a little) and he's already finished the label...so, give me a week or so and I should have the HJ on, at least.lantzn wrote:It looks like the bags are back in stock.
http://www.military1st.co.uk/30303b-ger ... olive.html
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
I just made a label and long straps for member zhund. I'm really pleased with how the "KZ" letters look. Some letters just really fill out the label.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@ ... 479842133/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/35223822@ ... 479842133/
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Great tutorial - thank you!
-
- Grail Recovery Volunteer
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2018 9:14 pm
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Hello,
Is anyone still here? I'm looking to get an HJ patch for my backpack. Does anyone make these I could sew on myself?
Is anyone still here? I'm looking to get an HJ patch for my backpack. Does anyone make these I could sew on myself?
- lantzn
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:29 pm
- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Re: KotCS backpack "HJ" label TUTORIAL
Yes I still make the label and long straps. I’ll discuss it in PM.