For those who don't care about SA...

SpeedRcrX · Post by **SpeedRcrX** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 3:13 pm

Forrest For the Trees wrote:Not much different than a repro A-2 label. Adds to the authentic reproduction, tags and all, like the Bermans and Nathans tag in the Relic Hunter. The pocket probably has the Bill Kelso Mfg tag.

Great looking jacket, by the way!

Yes the Bill Kelso tag is in my right pocket

Thanks for the compliment the liberty HH is really supple making the jacket quite comfortable from the start, I really like it.

CRB · Post by **CRB** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 4:03 pm

Well that's a testament to how good BK are.

There are also 'made by bill kelso' labels inside the pockets of their products

SpeedRcrX · Post by **SpeedRcrX** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 5:18 pm

Thanks Michael,

The jacket is part of their half-belts line but their website is outdated compare to their actual offerings.

If you want to have a look at their HB you can go on their Facebook page. Their Dodger and Heracles are fine specimens.

In the movie, the jacket, Willis is wearing, is an original and Tony Nowak made a copy of it for the stunts (if I remember correctly)

It's why this Californian is also name Surrogates.

I have the TN version but the jacket is less comfortable than the BK.

For the lining BK offer tartan, wool and coton, I choose tartan (they have a least 20 patterns to choose from)

Speed

Baldwyn · Post by **Baldwyn** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 2:33 am

TR, you just missed their Black Friday sale on this jacket!! Bill Kelso's are well worth the money. Man, I used to think Tony had great leathers, but these guys.... And it's not just the highest quality materials, but really the superlative construction as well.

Surrogates was just ok as a movie, but the jacket design is phenomenal. I'm sure BK would love to sell more, as they not only acquired an original TN version, but that vintage California that the TN was based on as well.

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:26 am

That's exactly what Dan and Vanson did too. Right down to the fact that the liner on my jacket is not attached to the leather along the bottom back panel. Just like the original. This was done to alleviate the problem of puckering leather in the event of a liner shrink. (A problem many reproducers of this style don't address...the Levi's Menlo comes to mind).

All of that coupled with the price point I paid (less than 1/2 the price of a BK), and the fact that it's USA made, makes this jacket the best leather purchase I've ever made!

CM · Post by CM » Sat Dec 13, 2014 11:13 pm

Hollowpond wrote:That's exactly what Dan and Vanson did too. Right down to the fact that the liner on my jacket is not attached to the leather along the bottom back panel. Just like the original. This was done to alleviate the problem of puckering leather in the event of a liner shrink. (A problem many reproducers of this style don't address...the Levi's Menlo comes to mind).

All of that coupled with the price point I paid (less than 1/2 the price of a BK), and the fact that it's USA made, makes this jacket the best leather purchase I've ever made!

Yes, but I have read in places (Fedora Lounge and Film Jackets) that Dan (Logan's Closet) can be challenging to deal with. From what others have written, communication can be unforthcoming and when you order custom you can be waiting for many months and longer. I think your jacket had already been made and so you bought existing stock. I'm too cautious to order one custom from LC. Anyone tried a custom job from him in the past 12 months? It'd be great to hear it is easy and quick.

SpeedRcrX · Post by **SpeedRcrX** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 4:53 am

Baldwyn wrote: Surrogates was just ok as a movie, but the jacket design is phenomenal. I'm sure BK would love to sell more, as they not only acquired an original TN version, but that vintage California that the TN was based on as well.

Just before beginning making the jacket, Andy emailed me to ask if I wanted the TN or original pattern.

I asked the difference between the two and he told me the only difference was the original one have more room in the shoulders and torso.

Since the TN pattern work for me before I decided to go for this one and I couldn't be happier with the result.

When I decided I wanted a new Californian I hesitated between BK and Logan, but BK being in EU made me choose them.

Same time zone so communication went rapidly and smoothly.

And no customs fees. I calculated, if I order from Logan a jacket + customs the final cost would have been nearly the same as a BK.

Plus if something was wrong with the jacket it was easier for me to send the jacket to Greece than to the U.S.

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:13 am

CM wrote:
Hollowpond wrote:That's exactly what Dan and Vanson did too. Right down to the fact that the liner on my jacket is not attached to the leather along the bottom back panel. Just like the original. This was done to alleviate the problem of puckering leather in the event of a liner shrink. (A problem many reproducers of this style don't address...the Levi's Menlo comes to mind).

All of that coupled with the price point I paid (less than 1/2 the price of a BK), and the fact that it's USA made, makes this jacket the best leather purchase I've ever made!

Yes, but I have read in places (Fedora Lounge and Film Jackets) that Dan (Logan's Closet) can be challenging to deal with. From what others have written, communication can be unforthcoming and when you order custom you can be waiting for many months and longer. I think your jacket had already been made and so you bought existing stock. I'm too cautious to order one custom from LC. Anyone tried a custom job from him in the past 12 months? It'd be great to hear it is easy and quick.

That is a fair assessment. Mine went silky smooth because I'm an off the rack perfect fit and I happen to be friends with Dan.

Vanson is SUPER particular about what hides they use, so they won't use sub par hides. Therefore, waits can be unpredictable and that paired with LC's spotty communications do make some problems.

For this jacket I basically contacted him and said, "Hey! I want this jacket!" And Dan said,"Cool!" And then I had it in three days. The only other jacket I purchased from him, I drove to his house and picked it up. Your results may vary...

Oh! And Speed, your jacket is beautiful too!

Carolina Tom · Post by **Carolina Tom** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:36 am

Hey Hollowpond, that jacket looks fantastic! The fit, finish, etc. is just perfect! If you don't mand me asking, how does one go about getting one of these Californian style Vansons? This jacket is not listed on the Vanson or Logan's Closet website. Is it horsehide? Are the zippers brass? Thanks and sorry for all the questions-I just found this thread. Tom

SpeedRcrX · Post by **SpeedRcrX** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:22 am

Hollowpond wrote: Oh! And Speed, your jacket is beautiful too!

Thanks, I hesitated a lot between this one and a Vanson!

You have gorgeous jacket Hollowpond!!!

Carolina Tom · Post by **Carolina Tom** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:52 am

+1

CRB · Post by **CRB** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:12 am

I think what you're forgetting to highlight was the fact that the Vanson one Dan had on EBay, ie was already made and in Dans hands. If you'd ordered it as a special order you could be with the customers who have waited over 2 years for the vansons.

With BK, yours would be made and shipped in about 8 weeks give or take, that counts for an enormous plus in my book when comparing the two.

Carolina Tom · Post by **Carolina Tom** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:17 am

Good point! Thanks!

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:32 pm

Yeah, I'm fortunate to be virtually Dan's exact size. When prototypes are made, they are made in his size. I just was lucky enough to be there to scoop this one up...

Carolina Tom · Post by **Carolina Tom** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 3:06 pm

Yeah, it's too bad that I wasn't aware of Aero a few years back when AeroUSA was practically located in my backyard. I have learned the hard way that a good fit is everything. I would love to be able to try on whatever I decide to buy. I would be terrified to order something custom for fear of getting the measurement wrong. I am lucky that I am a pretty standard size 40. Sometimes the arms are too long. I wear a 33" sleeve shirt. You are a lucky man. That Vanson is one beautiful jacket and the fit is perfect! Is it horsehide?

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 3:35 pm

No. This is a cowhide that Vanson calls "octagon." But with the color treatment it certainly looks like HH!

CM · Post by CM » Mon Dec 15, 2014 2:46 pm

I've not had a problem with custom orders in 25 years and I have to order from overseas.. You only need four measurements and you're good to go. 1. Pit to Pit, 2. sleeve, 3. back length and 4. shoulder width. Once you know how you like a jacket to fit it's hard to go wrong. My only recommendation to Indy fans is when you by a different leather jacket watch the shoulder width. Indy jackets are pretty much all cut over-sized there. Most men's shoulder width is 18-19 inches.

Baldwyn · Post by **Baldwyn** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 5:07 pm

Tundrarider wrote:
Carolina Tom wrote:I have learned the hard way that a good fit is everything. I would love to be able to try on whatever I decide to buy. I would be terrified to order something custom for fear of getting the measurement wrong.
Exactly my feelings. My first Indy jacket, "custom fitted" from Wested...bad fit. Second Indy jacket, custom made by Tony to my poorly provided specs...bad fit. My third and final Indy jacket, an Expedition after being able to try them on in the shop...great fit!!!

Sure, I'd like to have a real or repro Californian half belt, but it's gonna have to be something I stumble on in a vintage clothing shop or antique store. In my perfect size...yeah right!

So, I'll remain content with my "one" leather jacket. Which is good because I am doing everything I can to Naturficially distress it, which includes wearing it as often as I can. That ain't much in sunny California!

Michael

I gave poor Andy a hard time with lots of requests and ideas on tweaks to the Relic Hunter pattern to make it suitable for me. He sent me a 40R jacket to try out as well. Anyways, I've decided that sometimes you just got to go with the experts and leave it be

Sometimes you get a bad custom fit that makes you think that you're hard to fit, when you're pretty much off the rack.

CM · Post by CM » Tue Dec 16, 2014 1:58 am

Most people are easy to fit. Unless you are very big or tiny it's pretty much standards all the way.

The hard part is when some of us have a preconceived (and often misguided) idea about how a jacket should fit. This can be so subjective that it's not easy for a tailor to make the wish come true.

Carolina Tom · Post by **Carolina Tom** » Tue Dec 16, 2014 5:39 am

My issue is that I am a 40 regular, normal height 5'8" but I don't have a gut, and I have 33" arms, not 34". I am too tall for a 40 short. Sometimes shirts, jackets etc. will have too much room in the stomach area and the sleeves are made for an orangutan.

You are right though. If you try things off the rack long enough, you can usually get a good fit.

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Tue Dec 16, 2014 8:58 am

For me, there is just no need for custom. OTR works just fine. I did have a little advantage as I had been to Dan's house before and tried on numerous jackets. So he knew what my fit was. I suspected this one fit me well (I underestimated how well though...). Dan verified that. So again, not your typical LC customer...

clark.j.kent · Post by **clark.j.kent** » Wed May 27, 2015 9:48 am

Just picked this Levi's Jacket up on eBay. Doesn't have the halfbelt, but I got it for a steal. (Pics are the seller's):

Jacques · Post by **Jacques** » Wed May 27, 2015 12:11 pm

^^^That's an awesome weathered leather jacket!

I didn't know Levi's made leather jackets.

CM · Post by CM » Thu May 28, 2015 4:00 am

Jacques wrote:^^^That's an awesome weathered leather jacket! I didn't know Levi's made leather jackets.

Yep and some of their 1930's ones that Indy might have worn cost a fortune. Bond wore a Levis menlo in the last film. Not that I saw it.

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Thu May 28, 2015 4:04 am

I'm not generally a fan of jackets with vertical back seams, but that's a sharp jacket.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Carolina Tom · Post by **Carolina Tom** » Thu May 28, 2015 5:37 am

Here's my latest: a Ryder jacket from Lost Worlds:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hxqugtcg47ahd ... .jpeg?dl=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This half belt design was extremely popular by the mid 30's and was worn by many from the 30s to the 50's. It would have made a fine Indy jacket, but perhaps in goatskin for movement/draping purposes. This one is 3.5 oz. horsehide.

CM · Post by CM » Fri May 29, 2015 6:07 am

Indiana Jeff wrote:I'm not generally a fan of jackets with vertical back seams, but that's a sharp jacket.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

I hear you. Although the Levis pictured here is a pre-distressed modern jacket, the vertical seam is part of traditional leather jacket patterns used from everything from cafe racers of the 1930's to utility jackets.