Sleeve issues - picking a jacket...

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:08 pm

I'm debating which jacket to get, and the more I research, the more corn-fused I get.

Lost Worlds has told me they don't copy the Indy jacket, and they don't do custom orders. This doesn't seem to quite jive with their website, but I'm not going to pursue it. Which is a shame because their stuff is so gorgeous.

I am tempted by G&B's construction but I've seen lots of photos of G&B's that I didn't like. I have some experience with having tailored clothing made, and fussing over tiny details of coat cut and pattern, and it's my (professional amateur) opinion that the sleeve diameter on G&B's jackets is too large, leading to what see to be floppy sleeves that hang in vertical folks like curtains. There are multiple posts reflecting this.

I think it might be made worse by a lot of guys wearing jackets that are too large for them (in my personal, biased opinion.) Coats hanging off at the shoulders, cuffs down on the thumb - just too big. I know they're trying to recreate the loose, draped "shabby" look of the screen jackets, but I can't wear a jacket if it doesn't fit extremely well.

Aero has a somewhat similar jacket to the Indy style, and they were very accomodating about customizing the jacket pretty much any way I wanted. Plus there's this thread started by Fedoralover, which has (to me) the most perfect jacket sleeves I've yet seen.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21372&hilit=aero" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Those sleeves are perfect to my eyes - also notice they're a close fit. Compare those photos to most GB Expedition photos and it seems obvious to me that upper sleeve diameter is a big issue.

Now I know I'm comparing apples to oranges (Indy to A-2) but can you sort of see where my head's at? I'm wondering if US Wings Legend might be the sweet spot - solid construction with what (to my eyes) looks like a good cut/fit. But I'm wanting goat, and I don't see that they offer a goat jacket now, unless I'm blind and don't see them on the website.

Had to get this off my chest - thanks for listening. Am I off the reservation here? Advice appreciated.

Indiana Joyce · Post by **Indiana Joyce** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:17 pm

Well, it's your jacket. You have no one to answer to but yourself. You aren't interested in a Wested, Todd's custom, or a Nowak? I've had my problems with Wested, I have a custom Todd, but from all accounts, if you want it tailor made to your exact specifications, Go with a Magnoli or a Nowak. That's my two cents.

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:36 pm

I didn't know that Nowak was still in operation after he'd passed away. I know the website has been taken down.

Indiana Joyce · Post by **Indiana Joyce** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:06 pm

Last I heard, his son was taking over the business. I dont know if that has changed, but if anyone would know, it's _.

jnicktem · Post by **jnicktem** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:15 pm

Last I heard Tony's son, Riley, was still taking orders. You can contact him by: nowakpadawan@aol.com

TheExit148 · Post by **TheExit148** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:21 pm

You can't go wrong with Riley or with Magnoli. Both would be able to make a jacket with fitted sleeves. I'm sure even Todd's would be able to accommodate.

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:46 pm

Thanks for the tip - I'll contact Riley.

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 7:47 am

Excellent advice - thanks. If G&B will build a more military fit on request, then I'm done - I was under the impression they didn't do that, but I have't asked them.

WConly · Post by **WConly** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:45 pm

I find it interesting that Lost Worlds gave you that response wellofsouls. I had asked Stu there, shortly after receiving my custom 'Raider' (Lost Worlds' 'Raider', not Indy-'Raider') if he could do a custom 'Indy-style' jacket for me in the same goat that he uses for the 'Raider' and he said (remembering -- so it is paraphrased) that 'if I could provide a pattern or a jacket that he could take the patern from' then he would see what he could do. As I recall..and this has been several years now...he stated that it would have to be a jacket that I liked comfort, size-wise, etc. as he would take it apart to make the pattern. Again, this was several years ago, so he might not wish to pursue this coarse any more. But I did have the conversation with him about the subject. I will say this his jackets are something else. I love the 'Raider' and wish I could afford one of his A2's, but money is pretty tight for me at the moment. And, truthfully I have been downloading some of my coats, jackets, etc. just to alieviate so much clutter in my closets. I have even eliminated a good deal of my hats...not any of my fedoras, but several of the others. Anyway that is just my two cents, for what it is worth. W>

hovitos loincloth · Post by **hovitos loincloth** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:26 pm

At the risk of getting shot down in flames (and getting beaten to death with shovels when I'm down) you could go for custom Wested in goat and request a specific taper to the sleeve and what size cuff and shoulder length you want. Like you I've never been impressed with the "Wizards sleeve" effect on some vendors offerings.

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:43 pm

G&B told me they would tweak the pattern for $250 and it would be nonreturnable and nonrefundable. She advised extreme caution as it could mess up the whole jacket to change one detail.

I think I'll try a smaller size, in a longer length, and go from there.

I thought it was a little odd, too, about Lost Worlds, but you read that crazy website and you know it's a different operation. Very much a haven for eccentric artists, if you will. And the "Raider" jacket has a lot of Indiana Jones language on the webpage - they know very well where the ideas are coming from. I don't like the buttons on the pockets though - and that seam all the way around the waist at about mid-pocket height...no reason for that??

61ButteMT · Post by **61ButteMT** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:08 pm

Emails with all the major players over the last few years and only one left me scratching my head:LW.
I just decided not to immerse myself in there. I did find my son a new, pristine LW 30's half belt for a song that I could not turn down. But I didn't buy it from LW.
Ironic that in these awful financial times, these premium vendors are back-logged with orders to the point of being stand-offish at times.
With the cost and wait times, make sure it's what you want.

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:42 pm

_ wrote:but some people go a long time without having the voices diagnosed for what they are.

Man, ain't it the truth.

I've always heard that luxury goods are recession proof - hard times generally don't effect the serious money. I'd love to get my daughters each jackets made, but I'm afraid to approach the oracle at this point...

61ButteMT · Post by **61ButteMT** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:54 pm

wellofsouls wrote:
_ wrote:but some people go a long time without having the voices diagnosed for what they are.
Man, ain't it the truth.

I've always heard that luxury goods are recession proof - hard times generally don't effect the serious money. I'd love to get my daughters each jackets made, but I'm afraid to approach the oracle at this point...

LOL. We all have to bow to "the boss"

WConly · Post by **WConly** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:33 pm

wellofsouls wrote:G&B told me they would tweak the pattern for $250 and it would be nonreturnable and nonrefundable. She advised extreme caution as it could mess up the whole jacket to change one detail.

I think I'll try a smaller size, in a longer length, and go from there.

I thought it was a little odd, too, about Lost Worlds, but you read that crazy website and you know it's a different operation. Very much a haven for eccentric artists, if you will. And the "Raider" jacket has a lot of Indiana Jones language on the webpage - they know very well where the ideas are coming from. I don't like the buttons on the pockets though - and that seam all the way around the waist at about mid-pocket height...no reason for that??

Well...everyone is different. I like the button pockets similar to a G1 flight jacket and the whole design of the jacket as a whole. It is a close-to-body fit but with good movenment throught the arms because of the gussets. I will tell you this! We all used to talk about Peter's Brothers' custom Indy hats being bullet proof. This jacket is in that same catagory. Heaviest goat I have ever encountered!

61ButteMT · Post by **61ButteMT** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:38 pm

Only problem with the G1 is the connection to "Top Gun" IMHO.
It's a great jacket. And if it's good enough for the flyboys, it works for me.
The A2 stands out for me as the most iconic design.
But if you haven't seen it, check out the A1 on the Good Wear site. Drool worthy.

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:46 pm

61ButteMT wrote:Only problem with the G1 is the connection to "Top Gun" IMHO.
It's a great jacket. And if it's good enough for the flyboys, it works for me.
The A2 stands out for me as the most iconic design.
But if you haven't seen it, check out the A1 on the Good Wear site. Drool worthy.

That's strange, I don't see any A1's on that sight. But man-o-man do they have some A2's you leave home for...and that California Ventura is hella-sharp.

61ButteMT · Post by **61ButteMT** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 6:17 pm

http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/gwa1_images3.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

WConly · Post by **WConly** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 7:46 pm

Now that is hot! Great combination of leather-colour-style! I like it

! W>

WConly · Post by **WConly** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 8:33 pm

_ wrote:And the A1? That more likely what Indy would've worn given the timelines laid out throughout the novelizations.
Ah - here's Eastman's revamped A1 via HPA:

http://www.historypreservation.com/hpas ... niqnum=222

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I never had thought about that. That would have made a lot of sense for the time period. Good call! W>

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 9:37 pm

61ButteMT wrote:http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/gwa1_images3.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Wow...there it is. Not only is that one amazing jacket, but it's in the Twilight Zone. (I can't figure how to get to it from the main webpage.) Gorgeous color - and the buttons are perfect for it. The pockets look a little small though - almost like shirt pockets.

Interesting how they let the raw edges of the leather be exposed - striking effect.

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:04 pm

Well my head's spinning. There are so many more great jacket makers than I thought. I'd never heard of Vanson or Goodwear. Maybe I'll just say frig it and get a knee length double breasted in olive green horsehide with a full B-3 style sheepskin collar and silk scarf. I'll look like Indiana Shaft before it's all over.

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:56 am

WConly wrote: We all used to talk about Peter's Brothers' custom Indy hats being bullet proof......

Well, that was because in their original customs, they used felt that was so heavily laquered, they really WERE bullet proof!

wellofsouls wrote:
Well my head's spinning. There are so many more great jacket makers than I thought. I'd never heard of Vanson or Goodwear. Maybe I'll just say frig it and get a knee length double breasted in olive green horsehide with a full B-3 style sheepskin collar and silk scarf. I'll look like Indiana Shaft before it's all over.

You'll also have to bulk up to be _'s size too, as such a jacket would probably weigh in at around 60 pounds!

Regards! Michaelson

61ButteMT · Post by **61ButteMT** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 12:16 pm

A heavy jacket builds character and back muscles

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 12:25 pm

Ain't that the truth! When my Vanson was brand new if I fell down I probably would not have been able to get back up!

61ButteMT · Post by **61ButteMT** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 3:09 pm

_ wrote:I think I've bored y'all with the story of the FQHH A2 Aero made for me? Gawd, it was beautiful. But the FQHH is too stiff for an A2. Danged thing left bruises on my arms - like having an A2 made of plywood...

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Yeah, sadly the A2 isn't a good fit for the thick FQHH. But it's great with the other horse hides.
I'll wait til you get sick of your next jacket so I can buy it

wellofsouls · Post by **wellofsouls** » Thu Aug 18, 2011 10:28 pm

61ButteMT wrote:
_ wrote:I think I've bored y'all with the story of the FQHH A2 Aero made for me? Gawd, it was beautiful. But the FQHH is too stiff for an A2. Danged thing left bruises on my arms - like having an A2 made of plywood...

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Yeah, sadly the A2 isn't a good fit for the thick FQHH. But it's great with the other horse hides.
I'll wait til you get sick of your next jacket so I can buy it

Can you soften it up? Does it break in at all? Or is it not really suitable for a garment in the first place? It sounds almost like belt leather.

61ButteMT · Post by **61ButteMT** » Thu Aug 18, 2011 11:58 pm

FQHH is too thick. Not the right look at all. It wears in beautifully, but for an A2, mid-weight HH is perfect and correct.
I saw a thick FQHH "A2" on eBay and it looked ridiculous.
Only other way to go is goat.

61ButteMT · Post by **61ButteMT** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 2:15 am

Nah, not yours pal. Too small

I love FQHH, but it's not A2/indy/G1 material.
Think half belts, barnstormers, etc.
What's coming up in "_'s Closet"?

61ButteMT · Post by **61ButteMT** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 3:09 am

Dude, I'm emailing with Amanda as we "speak". Getting my size is a PITA. I don't blame you. Find someone that nails it and stick with 'em.
My arms and shoulders are long/wide. My chest is about 49", but I wear a 50/52 long. Then the body is too baggy. I got lucky on the A2 from you. Still looking at your X3

Post by **Michaelson** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:56 am

_ wrote:It's a fun time right now. Gotta admit that and why not?

That's the whole point of this entire exercise!

Regards! Michaelson