RaiderZee/Wade Egan Webley Kit Owners

Luke Warmwater · Post by **Luke Warmwater** » Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:36 pm

The grip is black and has a grippy rubbery feel, like a rubber grip would.

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:00 pm

Lantzn, according to what I found on the Testors site, the gun metal blue color is only available in the 1/2 oz. bottle, not in the spray. The gun metal spray is actually a darkish gray-green color (#1455). Am I wrong?

I am testing several metalized black sprays this week; I'll report the results.

RZ

lantzn · Post by **lantzn** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:36 pm

RaiderZee wrote:Lantzn, according to what I found on the Testors site, the gun metal blue color is only available in the 1/2 oz. bottle, not in the spray. The gun metal spray is actually a darkish gray-green color (#1455). Am I wrong?

I am testing several metalized black sprays this week; I'll report the results.

RZ

I went back today and they changed out the color pictures. The one I show in my post above WAS the color I saw that day. Now they have the gray-green you described. Very odd. The color is either Number 1405 1/2 oz. bottle or 1455 3oz. spray in the drop down menu. That previous dark blue color would have been perfect. I can't even find the color anywhere. Maybe they updated for matching ship guns or something. Too bad.

Jameth · Post by **Jameth** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 2:54 pm

Gunmetal grey is the color of parts of Vader's mask. That is the color I used on me reveal Vader. It would be perfect for my W.E. SOC revolver. It looks just like my real guns.

However, the hobby shop I bought it at is gone and the other one in town had a guy who acted like he had never heard of it?????? It was with all the other model spary cans before.???????????

Just FYI

lantzn · Post by **lantzn** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:27 pm

Thanks for posting those Michael!

Here are some great paint colors!

Tamiya Model Paints

Spray Lacquer TS38 Gunmetal 3 oz
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam85038.htm

PS-23 Polycarb Spray Gunmetal 3 oz
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam86023.htm

Spray Lacquer TS64 Dark Mica Blue 3 oz
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam85064.htm

Spray Lacquer TS55 Dark Blue 3 oz
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam85055.htm

Spray Lacquer TS40 Metallic Black 3 oz
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam85040.htm

Spray Lacquer TS29 Semi Gloss Black 3 oz
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam85029.htm

Spray Lacquer TS14 Black 3 oz
h[url]ttp://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam85014.htm[/url]

PS-5 Polycarb Spray Black 3 oz
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam86005.htm

Spray Lacquer TS6 Matte Black 3 oz
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam85006.htm

Jameth · Post by **Jameth** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:35 pm

Tundrarider wrote:Would these be of any help for color/distessing reference?

Michael

Is that a real gun???????????????????????

Photoss · Post by **Photoss** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:02 pm

Yeah, that's Michael's WG, thanks for posting reference pics.

Jameth · Post by **Jameth** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:32 pm

Michael
Didn't you say you wanted to trade something for my binos? You got a deal. My Binos for your Gun

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:43 am

Not to derail my own thread but, having handled one of Rook's WG (#28) and now having one of Wade's I'm even more impressed with the skill and time that Rook puts into his WGs!

I'm not much of a model guy myself so my finishing of my Wade WG will be pretty basic and trying to get it to anything approaching what Rook did is impossible for me.

Back on topic, thanks to everyone here for sharing their paint choices and the ongoing tips for finishing the Wade WG. I would have never thought to use the plasti-dip for the handles. Now I know what I'll use on them. Also, thanks Michael for the reference pictures, always helpful to see another view.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:07 am

You're right, Jeff, these initial kits offered by me and Wade cannot hold a candle to Rook's magnificent WGs. His work is something I, too, could never hope to match.

However, our kits are FAR better than the other Indy gun DIY resin kits now available. They are intended for the masses: people who can't afford or missed out on Rook's masterpieces. I think our kits fill a definate need in the Indy gear spectrum. They are great holster beaters, and can be as good as the time you put into them. Me, if I had a Rook WG, I'd be TERRIFIED to take it out. It belongs in a museum

Now, Wade IS planning a full-on WG prop along the lines of Rook. Stay tuned . . . Meanwhile, it's great to get all this input on how to finish our basic kits. I like the Plasti-Dip idea, but, personally, I don't want a WG grip with a "rubbery" feel, so I'm trying to get the right color for the vulcanite grips.

BTW, DuraCote makes gun paint that will work on plastic. You need an airbrush, but it may be worth checking out.

RZ

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:51 am

RZ,

I didn't mean to disregard the excellent work you and Wade have put into this kit. I think everyone will agree these WGs are incredible and will provide, as you say, 'the masses' with an opportunity to own a model WG.

I can fall into the trap of seeing work done by the artisans around these parts and not fully appreciate the skill that went into to piece and somewhere in the reptilian part of my brain think, "gee, I could do that if I took the time." Being able to hold a Rook WG and the WG offered by you and Wade side by side gave me the opportunity to be reminded how much skill/work Rook puts into his pieces and that regardless of how much time and energy I put into my Wade WG I'll never get it to look like one of Rook's, even at the 10' test. That's not a reflection of the WG's quality, but of my own skills.

I'm looking forward to seeing what else Wade comes up with for his WG offerings.

First it was jackets, then fedoras and now WGs. It's never been a better time to be a gearhead!

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:23 pm

No sweat Jeff. Didn't mean to come off as defensive. Now, back the finishing jobs. Check out the DuraCoat finishes: http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/

RZ

Wade Egan · Post by **Wade Egan** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:21 pm

RaiderZee is correct there. This WG project was not intended to 'out do' Rook's offering in any way. But rather (as RaiderZee said) bring a very hard to find piece into the market easily for the people who can't afford or don't want to afford a $300 replica.

I am, at this moment, working on a more comprehensive model. Two actually. The molding process is quite tedious and time consuming with a lot of trial and error as well as a lot of detail work required to make it right. My intention was to get the less comprehensive model on the market (done!) and then work towards the more comprehensive models down the line.

I definitely appreciate the time and effort that go into a piece like this one and Rook has done an excellent job. Next we'll see what I can do with the parts mold.

W.E.

Jameth · Post by **Jameth** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:20 pm

RaiderZee wrote:You're right, Jeff, these initial kits offered by me and Wade cannot hold a candle to Rook's magnificent WGs. His work is something I, too, could never hope to match.

However, our kits are FAR better than the other Indy gun DIY resin kits now available. They are intended for the masses: people who can't afford or missed out on Rook's masterpieces. I think our kits fill a definate need in the Indy gear spectrum. They are great holster beaters, and can be as good as the time you put into them. Me, if I had a Rook WG, I'd be TERRIFIED to take it out. It belongs in a museum

Now, Wade IS planning a full-on WG prop along the lines of Rook. Stay tuned . . . Meanwhile, it's great to get all this input on how to finish our basic kits. I like the Plasti-Dip idea, but, personally, I don't want a WG grip with a "rubbery" feel, so I'm trying to get the right color for the vulcanite grips.

BTW, DuraCote makes gun paint that will work on plastic. You need an airbrush, but it may be worth checking out.

RZ

The kits are AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 I have a SOC revolver and could not be happier. Great price and much less than most the kits I have seen and much better than them as well. It's perfect to go with my gear. You don't want to carry a real one around and become "Indiana Jones and the tale of my cellmate's advances." A full working replica, while cool, would hurt should you trip and fall while in your gear. That's why these kits are PERFECT. They look totally real but worst case I fall and it breaks I'm out $75 and a few bucks for paint.

Wade Egan · Post by **Wade Egan** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:03 pm

Question:

Are you guys using a particular kind of finish coat like the Duracote that is for models? I have been using the regular hardware store bought clear cote and kind of wish it looked a little better. I'm wondering if some of the hobby shops carry a different option? I've not really worked with paint before so I'm open to your suggestions.

Also, I've been using the flat black, but I'm told the semi-flat black is better. But it's harder to find the semi-flat for sure. I had to get a merchant account with Grainger here in in California just to get one can. I haven't tried it yet but I'll post when I do.

I have been having no luck finding the right size lanyard ring for the WG as well. With all the orders and casting and molding I'm finding it hard to make time for research. I tried using a chain link but it was brass and wouldn't hold the paint very well. I'm considering just casting a full peg out of aluminum or something to just screw into the bottom of the WG but I'm told that cold cast aluminum is brittle and would most likely break.

W.E.

djd · Post by **djd** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 4:58 am

My Wade WG (thoughtfully painted a UK legal colour by Wade) - cleaned up and ready for painting

djd · Post by **djd** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:35 pm

Primed

chezzy2381 · Post by **chezzy2381** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:55 pm

Nice to see im not the only one with a tango'd webley

Chez

Wade Egan · Post by **Wade Egan** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 2:28 pm

I'm just glad the kits are getting to the UK alright.

W.E.

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 2:38 pm

Just watch out for Big Brother, lads . . .

chezzy2381 · Post by **chezzy2381** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 5:48 pm

yeah i hear you on that,that's why i haven't
really said too much on the thread

Cheers for a great prop guys,
Keep up the great work

Chez

djd · Post by **djd** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 4:23 am

Finished

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 5:18 am

Bravo, djd. These kits are all about YOUR perfect WG, and you've done that very well! Indyesque in spades.

RZ

chezzy2381 · Post by **chezzy2381** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:20 am

nice paint job djd

i like the fact that the grips are darker
than the main frame,makes it alot
more realistic

Chez

djd · Post by **djd** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:42 am

Thank guys.

Painted with matt black acrylic spray. Went over the whole thing with a soft pencil then dry brushed various areas with varying shades of silver and gun metal. Grips painted flat black then went over them with a very dark brown wash.

Rook · Post by **Rook** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:58 pm

Those are some fine looking replicas! No, I'm NOT talking about mine either.

Regarding the weathering, yes, I do a solid black top coat and use some ultra-fine grade (I think it's "000" grade) steel wool, taking care to pretty much only hit the 'high traffic' ares that would see wear from either hands or holster. I also compare them to the reference images of the Propstore Webley.

Honestly, I've never been 100% happy with my paint selection. Sure, it looks good by itself but put it beside a well worn real steel and you can tell it's not the same gun.

I've considered using the guncote (sp) paint, but I've read differing reviews with different opinions of the real steel paint. Still need to find cash to experiment with it.

Great looking replicas everyone, keep up the good work!

Russ

lantzn · Post by **lantzn** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:04 pm

Wade I got one of your guns and I'm sanding, bondoing right now. I was wondering where I can get the metal ring for the lanyard. Thanks

Wade Egan · Post by **Wade Egan** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:34 pm

The lanyard ring has proven to be the hardest piece of the WG to make/find. As of today, RaiderZee is working on the rings. I'm still looking for alternative solutions as well and will post as soon as I find one or RaiderZee has some done.

W.E.

Jameth · Post by **Jameth** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:53 pm

Tundrarider wrote:Looks awesome, djd!!!

For those of you still working on this, I have some ideas:

The best way to replicate the "wearing off" of blueing on the gunmetal background would be to apply the paint likewise.

1) If the gun has been painted orange, lightly steel wool or sand it until the orange is gone in the "high wear" areas. (So the orange doesn't re-emerge later when sanding. )

2) Spray the gray primer.

3) Spray the Gunmetal Silver/gray.

4) Spray the Blueing paint. (Light coat)

When dry, start gently with the steel wool in taking down the Blueing paint in the wear areas. The larger exposed areas will show more silver while the recessed areas will retain the bluing. The high wear edges and corners should have a very defined and sharp silver "line" to them.

When you are satisfied with the final finish, perhaps a light coat of clear sealer either semi-gloss or gloss. Then a final light rub with the steel wool.

Here's a pic of Russ's WG. I believe he may have used a similar process for his.

The trigger and hammer are not "blued" and it is evident in both the actual WG and Rook's. The grips sholuld also be solid colored.

One more thing, I would recommend working very slowly in taking down the paint. It took years of wear to do this "for real" so it will pay off to take down just a little at a time until it looks just right to your eye. If you take down too much, you run the risk of having to apply more paint. The more paint you apply, the less sharp the edges and detail will be, making it appear less like metal and more like resin.

Best to you on your projects!

Michael

NOTE: Forgive me if I make this sound like it's as easy as pie. Everything is "easier said than done" and I haven't actually painted one of these replicas. I'm just pulling from my experience in painting and crafting.

Rook had the luxury of having lots of molded replicas to "practice" on. It paid off. If I only had one of these, I would buy a few cheap toy plastic guns so I could experiment and practice with the painting and distressing until I achieved the desired result, before attempting it on the real thing!

Michael,

What blueing spray do you recommend???

Are these pics a resin replica of your real gun????

Jameth · Post by **Jameth** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:05 pm

Tundrarider wrote:Hi Jameth,

I can't recommend any "blueing spray" as I haven't actually painted one of these. My advice was more toward how to do it as opposed to what to use.

All of the pics (except the last) I posted were of my ACTUAL WG, posted as reference for someone trying to get the look of an actual revolver. The last pic was of Rook's awesome replica.

My posts were for two reasons. One, if I were painting one of these, I would like to have some pics of a "real" WG for reference. Second, I'd also appreciate any helpful hints wherever I could get them.

Sorry for the confusion.

Michael

No prob.

I'm gonna use your technique with a Gun Metal spray. The same I used on my Vader Reveal mask. The finish looks just like my Glock.

Do you have a real ROTLA S&W hand ejector by any chance to show off

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:54 pm

Hey thanks TR! That's a big help. I'm working on the rings right now, and hope to have them ready very soon.

RZ

matt black · Post by **matt black** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 6:53 pm

I made this for my Wade WG. It's not perfect but should do the job. It is all metal construction apart from the black plastic ring that will allow it to swivel the full 360 when fitted. I only had a couple of ref pictures and finished making it the before TR posted the very helpful close up shots. Thanks for all the pics Michael. They are a great help.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv21 ... /002-1.jpg

Wade Egan · Post by **Wade Egan** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:29 pm

Yep! There she blows! That's exactly the type of set up I've been trying to locate for the WGs. Nice work.

W.E.

matt black · Post by **matt black** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:33 pm

Thanks Wade. Now I've just got to hope that custom's let it through

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 9:26 pm

Wow Matt, nice! How did you do that? Truth be told this is a much stronger set-up than just clipping the rings on to the resin. I'm still going to do the rings for all the orders, but maybe you could post a tutorial on how you did the rest.

Best,

RZ

matt black · Post by **matt black** » Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:17 pm

Thanks for the kind worde TR and RZ. The post is just a dome nut ground down to size with a hole drilled right through then a bolt with the end cut off screwed as far into the dome nut as it will go. Under that is a plastic nut ground down so it is round then a steel nut ground down smaller than the plastic nut and glued to the bolt. Hope some of that makes sense.

matt black · Post by **matt black** » Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:37 pm

I really hope Wade has some more WG's. I left the paint stripper on my gun too long and it melted. That'll teach me to keep my brain cell on one thing at a time.

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:40 pm

Ouch! Bet he'd trade you a kit for, oh, some lanyard rings

RZ

lantzn · Post by **lantzn** » Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:28 am

Tundrarider wrote:Raider Zee asked for the dimensions of the lanyard ring since his WG is still with Wade. I thought you guys might be interested, as well, in case you were working on finding a workable solution to this piece.
Best to you with your projects!

Michael

Michael does the ring mount swivel on the WG or is it stationery?

Mr. Fusion 1138 · Post by **Mr. Fusion 1138** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:28 am

Hello all. I'm new to the boards. Joined a while back and didn't really know where to start posting. I picked up one of these babies on eBay. One of the 2nds. I didn't do a whole lot of work before painting, though.

So, here's my kit, painted up. I'm pretty satisfied with the result (for now

)

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:38 am

Welcome, Mr. Fusion. Nice job on the WG. Maybe add some black or dark gray paint smeared on with you fingers over the silver? That would give it more of a faded original finish look.

RZ

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:56 am

OK, all WG kit owners, here's the straight low-down on the lanyard rings:

I have found rings that are pretty close to the size and shape needed:

These should arrive to me by early next week. I will cut a slot in the ring and pry one side up a bit to help you get it on the post. You'll have to close it CAREFULLY yourself then paint it; be sure to use paint that will adhere to bare metal (try Rustoleum Universal paint in the funny looking can).

Now the truth: odds are good that, if you handle the kit much, especially in a holster, the resin post will snap off (sooner or later). It's also very tricky just to get the ring on, but it can be done. This seems to be an inherent weakness on other resin casts with these type of rings, not just ours. But there is an out . . .

I plan on replacing my resin post with this:

This is a rifle sling kit that is very close in dimensions to a real WG post. It comes as a set, but the one of the right would be the easiest to use. Slap a plastic 1/4" bushing on the one on the right, screw on the nut (snug but not too tight so that the post will turn), drill a hole in the grip, epoxy the bushing and VOILA! You have a very solid post that will turn.

These are on closeout for about $6.99 on several websites. Do a search for "Uncle Mike's MP 130 Bolt Action Rifles Swivels" and you'll find them. But they are no longer being made, so get one quick if you want one. I ordered 3 today.

RZ

lantzn · Post by **lantzn** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:58 am

Tundrarider wrote:Would these be of any help for color/distessing reference?

Michael
]

Michael can you post a pic of your real WG from this angle? Also a pic of the front brass sight at the end of the barrel?

All the guns I have had, had a "V" groove just in front of the hammer to line up the sight at the end of the barrel. These resin versions don't have one and I'm thinking it might have been to thin to cast well. Any how I'm currently using glaze bondo to fill air holes and build up other imperfections before I paint. I've built a narrow wall in this area and will file in the V groove once I see how it looks from above and behind it. Also the front part of the brass colored sight is missing due to a bubble and I'm going to build it back with bondo also.

lantzn · Post by **lantzn** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 2:40 am

RaiderZee wrote:OK, all WG kit owners, here's the straight low-down on the lanyard rings:

I have found rings that are pretty close to the size and shape needed:

These should arrive to me by early next week. I will cut a slot in the ring and pry one side up a bit to help you get it on the post. You'll have to close it CAREFULLY yourself then paint it; be sure to use paint that will adhere to bare metal (try Rustoleum Universal paint in the funny looking can).

Now the truth: odds are good that, if you handle the kit much, especially in a holster, the resin post will snap off (sooner or later). It's also very tricky just to get the ring on, but it can be done. This seems to be an inherent weakness on other resin casts with these type of rings, not just ours. But there is an out . . .

I plan on replacing my resin post with this:
This is a rifle sling kit that is very close in dimensions to a real WG post. It comes as a set, but the one of the right would be the easiest to use. Slap a plastic 1/4" bushing on the one on the right, screw on the nut (snug but not too tight so that the post will turn), drill a hole in the grip, epoxy the bushing and VOILA! You have a very solid post that will turn.

These are on closeout for about $6.99 on several websites. Do a search for "Uncle Mike's MP 130 Bolt Action Rifles Swivels" and you'll find them. But they are no longer being made, so get one quick if you want one. I ordered 3 today.

RZ

What size ring is on these S&W M1917's? The look is right for the WG.

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 3:37 am

The ring on my 2nd Model HE is 1" W x 7/16" H (both OD). I make it to be a tiny bit smaller than the WG ring. It is a closer match than the rings I have mentioned, mainly due to the look of the post. Potential drawbacks: 1) not sure offhand how you would mount it on a one-piece grip (on a cast with separate grips, no problem) and 2) they're more expensive ($13 to $25 plus shipping).

RZ

matt black · Post by **matt black** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:41 am

RaiderZee wrote:OK, all WG kit owners, here's the straight low-down on the lanyard rings:

I have found rings that are pretty close to the size and shape needed:

These should arrive to me by early next week. I will cut a slot in the ring and pry one side up a bit to help you get it on the post. You'll have to close it CAREFULLY yourself then paint it; be sure to use paint that will adhere to bare metal (try Rustoleum Universal paint in the funny looking can).

Now the truth: odds are good that, if you handle the kit much, especially in a holster, the resin post will snap off (sooner or later). It's also very tricky just to get the ring on, but it can be done. This seems to be an inherent weakness on other resin casts with these type of rings, not just ours. But there is an out . . .

I plan on replacing my resin post with this:

This is a rifle sling kit that is very close in dimensions to a real WG post. It comes as a set, but the one of the right would be the easiest to use. Slap a plastic 1/4" bushing on the one on the right, screw on the nut (snug but not too tight so that the post will turn), drill a hole in the grip, epoxy the bushing and VOILA! You have a very solid post that will turn.

These are on closeout for about $6.99 on several websites. Do a search for "Uncle Mike's MP 130 Bolt Action Rifles Swivels" and you'll find them. But they are no longer being made, so get one quick if you want one. I ordered 3 today.

RZ

Wow! Great find RZ. Thanks for posting this. Just ordered one.

lantzn · Post by **lantzn** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:34 pm

duplicate

djd · Post by **djd** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:47 pm

Great pictures. Thanks

lantzn · Post by **lantzn** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 2:36 pm

RaiderZee wrote:The ring on my 2nd Model HE is 1" W x 7/16" H (both OD). I make it to be a tiny bit smaller than the WG ring. It is a closer match than the rings I have mentioned, mainly due to the look of the post. Potential drawbacks: 1) not sure offhand how you would mount it on a one-piece grip (on a cast with separate grips, no problem) and 2) they're more expensive ($13 to $25 plus shipping).

RZ

You could drill a hole and ancor it in with epoxy.. The hour glass shape would be surrounded by epoxy and keep it from slipping out. I wonder if the post that that matches more closely could hold the correct size ring? How much smaller are we talking about between the rings?

At this part vendor they show a similar picture for the 1917 and Victory but different numbers.
http://www.e-gunparts.com/gander/produc ... escription
http://www.e-gunparts.com/gander/produc ... ion,%20SKU

RaiderZee · Post by **RaiderZee** » Sun Jan 24, 2010 3:59 pm

You could anchor the 1917 ring with epoxy but it wouldn't turn. I'm sure someone could figure out a way to do it eventually. Not sure if there's a difference between the 1917 and the Victory lanyards, but the Victory is a smaller frame. Get a 1917 if available.

RZ