My first whipmaking experience (nylon). Please critique.

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PropReplicator
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My first whipmaking experience (nylon). Please critique.

Post by PropReplicator »

Well, I spent the weekend on this little project, and the pics are at the link below. Not only was this my first bull whip, it was my first time doing any kind of braiding or plaiting. :) Beware, it is UGLY!! But it cracks with ease and sounds like a 22 going off. :)

There are also some pics of my son (I made this whip for him) giving it a crack this morning. The great thing is, it was soaking wet outside from rain, and with a nylon whip, we could crack anyway!!. :) Plus the moisture on the cracker gave off a nice puff of "smoke" when cracked. :)

http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp? ... _id=154575

I used black nylon parachute cord, an 8" nail spike, a core of 3/8" white nylon rope, a 6-plait belly (on retrospect, I should have use an 8-plait), NO BOLSTER (another mistake), and a 12-plait overlay. I built up the knob with duct tape, but haven't attempted the turkshead knots, yet, on the butt or the handle/thong junction. I made the fall from a single strand of nylon cord. I just doubled over the end to make a loop and tied it down supertight with white (wish I had black) sinew.

I made TONS of mistakes on this whip, but I left them in so I can show everyone what the mistakes will do to the overall quality of your whip.

Here's what I learned. Please learn from my mistakes. That's the whole reason I didn't fix my mistakes as I saw them happen. I wanted a record of them in picture form to help those others of you who want to give this a try. :)

First off, I wanted to do a diamond weave on the handle, and instead of plaiting loose and pulling tight, I thought I'd be able to plait tight and then not have to tighten. MISTAKE!! You can see how spread out the weave is. It is very hard, however, and not "smooshy" at all. So it will work for now.

Second, I went too far with the diamond patern, well beyond the handle/thong junction. After I put the keeper turkshead there, there will be some diamond patter after it. :(

Third, I continued WAY down the thong trying to plait tight and not go back and tighten. MISTAKE!! ALthough the plait is nice and hard, they are spread out again. I finally started to plait loose and pull tight (with pliars) about half-way down the whip, and you can REALLY tell a difference. However, it took a lot of trial and error on how far I could plait loose and then tighten without loosing the ability to tighten back very far up the whip (does that make sense?). So there are several spots where I plaited loose for 4 to 5 inches, and then could only tighten back up the whip about 3 inches or so. Toward the end of the whip, I finally figured out the length of loose plaiting before tightening that worked for me. But it took me a whole whip to figure it out.

Fourth, every once and a while, I got confused and wove with the wrong strand. This left an odd strand out of place which really affects the overall appearance. So if you get one out of place, UNDO WHAT YOU HAVE DONE AND FIX IT! It's amazing how one strand out of place in one tiny little spot really meeses up the whole look of the whip.

Fifth, when dropping strands, I did something wrong, but I'm not sure what. Whenever I dropped strands, I got an odd "pucker" in the thong. I need help here, if you can tell what I did wrong. This gold pen is pointing to the spots where I dropped strands into the thong.

Sixth, I WAY underestimated how long I need the strands to be. For leather, I have heard that you want your finished whip to be 2/3's the length of your original strand lengths. So I cut 12' strands wanting an 8' whip. HOWEVER, it appears that when using nylon, you need to have your strand length be TWICE the length you want oyur finished whip to be. I ended up with a 5-1/2' whip from 12' strands. And assuming I could have pulled a lot tighter in places, I might have sqeezed 6' out of it.

Seventh, Since I was planning on an 8' whip, I got to the end of the whip and needed to drop strands fast! So, I had to taper too much too quickly at the end.

Eighth, I only had white sinew to tie with, so it really stands out on the fall hitch area.

There you have it. I learned a LOT and really had fun doing it. I hope to start another one in a week or so. :)

Thanks to EVERYONE who helped me along the way. I really appreciate it. :)

Wayne
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Post by PropReplicator »

Notice: my son's wearing his protective gear, including eye protection. Whipcracking is dangerous! Do not let children do it without supervision!!
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Post by Kentucky Blues »

It's alot better than my nylon snake whip, but not as good as my WSP nylon bullwhip ;) But still, very good.
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Post by IndyMo »

PR,

Actually, the braiding looks good - Your son is lucky he had his first whip before I did. I'll bet a leather whip is not far off!

Nice Job,

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Post by PropReplicator »

Thanks for the comments.

I'm pleasantly surprised at the seams. They're pretty darn straight!:)
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Post by RedburnIV »

Very nice indeed, PropReplicator. You did a great job. Your sons pretty lucky, "Hey Dad my whip broke, can you make me a new one?" :lol:




Regards, Dan
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Post by Mola Ram »

Well,
I must say that that should help a lot for your future attempts.
If you start out with a whip that is too hard for you (like I did)
you really can learn a lot from it. There is only one issue though.
You really should have read what you had before you started the
the whip and then bought the Edwards book and waited for it
to read it before you started. That book would have helped you
immensely, it really helped me a lot so I am sure it would do the
same for you. Even though nylon is cool it does not make for a
good first whip. Leather is the ideal starting material, well it was
for me at least. I would say now you should try something a little
less difficult.
mola
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Post by Indiana »

Wow! NIce. Now ya need to try a 64 plait :wink:
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Post by Mola Ram »

um thats way to cocky!!!! dont let him get full of him
self :wink: anyways he should work on the basics still
a tightly plaited 4 plait bullwhip is better then a junky
loosely plaited 16 plaiter.
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Post by PropReplicator »

I have to agree with Mola. I still have TONS to learn about just the basics.
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Post by Major Mike »

"Good judgement is what you get from experience. Experience is what you get from bad judgement".

Some of the best advice I got from Paul Nolan was to keep a notebook with all the details of your whips and their construction. Draw pictures, take measurements, and write notes on what you did right and what you did wrong. From your post, you've done a good job of it. Whips are a lot like fishing poles, you can buy a $20 K-Mart fiberglass rod or a $700 graphite fly rod and both will cast a line, but one does it with a lot more grace and style. Great job on a first attempt.

From the pictures, the lumps and bumps from where you dropped strands could be that you pulled one or two strands tighter than the rest, the bulk from dropping the strands, or dropping a strand that didn't lay neatly, or a combination. Tough to tell with the black material. This is where leather is a bit more forgiving. You can trim, scrape, cut, taper more with leather than nylon.

My first attempts had lots of those, too. Now I bring them on camping trips with my Boy Scouts and let them have at them. They wrap them around trees, hit the ground, etc, and I don't mind. But they don't get to use my newer ones.

Keep going, its a great start.
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Post by Indiana_Hall »

Don't worry about the rough appearance of your first whip. If that's the worst job you ever do, you're in good shape. Here's a few suggestions for you:

1. Pull the core out of the nylon. That way, you'll have a hollow tube. This will lay much flatter for you when braiding.

2. You can control the shape of the whip's central core better if you take and bind some un-hollowed strands of nylon (at varying lengths, of course) together. Attach the core to the handle with duct tape and secure the thong conjuction with sinew.

3. Try doing your belly in 10-plait ending in 4. The strands should only need to be cut 2 1/2' longer than the desired length of the belly. This should be enough to give some mass to the whip. Try braiding the belly about three feet shorter than the final length of the whip. Note: The core should extend past the end of the belly. When finshed with the belly, tie the end off with sinew. Wrap the thong conjunction tightly with sinew.

5. This may be beyond your braiding ability, but trying doing the overlay in 16-plait. The strands will need to be cut 3 1/2' longer the whip's final length. This is just something that will give the whip a better diameter when finished.

I hope all this will help with your next attempt. You did great for a first try. Remember, all great whip makers started somewhere. Keep up the good work.

High Regards, Indiana_Hall

P.S.: If I need to clarify on anything, let me know.
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Post by Mola Ram »

In my book if you are making a nylon whip you should use a last long thing not just a pull out for temporary repairs thing. Duct tape should not really be used in a whip because it is...well a temporary item. Its uasualy used for pipe repairs exe. things quick and simple that dont really need strength. I just dont see duct tape as something that would last long. Hopefully most of you will understand what i mean. If you have something to say towards my point feel free to do so :D
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Post by PropReplicator »

Indiana Hall, thanks for the great info!! :)

Molorom, Bernie uses duct tape for his shot bags in his leather snakewhips. I think as long as it is heavily reinforced with sinew, it will be o.k.
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Duct Tape

Post by jerryrwm »

Okay, just a few words on the duct tape issue.

True, Bernie uses duct tape on his shot bags, and so do several other whipmakers, myself included, but, duct tape is not the shot bag itself, rather it is used to hold the shot bags shape and help provide a seal for the bag. The shot bag itself is leather, or in the case of nylon whips, made of nylon. The duct tape serves only as a means of holding the bag as the first belly and/or bolster is applied and the rest of the whip is made. If you have sewn a shot bag, or used barge cement to seal the edge, then while "whumping the #### outta it" on the floor or work bench, to help pack the shot, had a seam split open you will appreciate the added protection of that layer of duct tape! Because #12 shot is awfully small and it gets everywhere!!

So, the duct tape is not for anything more than to help hold the bag together while the whip is constructed.

Jerry R
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whipmaker

Post by jerryrwm »

Prop -

If you are in Abilene, Tx, you have a valuable resource right there. Derald Bright is a whipmaker and lives in the Abilene area. I would look him up and pick his brain. He makes some awfully nice whips and is not a rookie, so you would be getting some good information first hand.

Hope this helps,

Jerry R
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Post by PropReplicator »

Jerry, thanks for the name! I will definitely look him up.

And as for the duct tape issue, I thought that was understood in what I stated earlier, but I should have been clearer. It seems to be only a temporary hold until he can wrap it in sinew. That's the same way I used it in my first whip. I held the rope core to the nail with duct tape and then wrapped it tightly with lots of sinew. And of coure the belly went over the nail and then the nylon core, so it should all very well held together.:)
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Post by The_Edge »

Nice job on the whip! I'll bet you learned a lot making it. You'll be able to apply that your next one. Are you making any more?
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Post by PropReplicator »

The_Edge wrote:Nice job on the whip! I'll bet you learned a lot making it. You'll be able to apply that your next one. Are you making any more?
Oh, yes. I've been bitten by the bug. This one was the first of many to come. :) I think I want to make a pocket snakewhip next, though. Somthing I can coil up tight and keep in my Mark VI (I sold my VII :( )bag.

I'll be taking pics along the way on this next one, as well. It helps me to see my mistakes, and helps me pass on what I learn along the way to others who may want to give it a try.
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