Coming soon to a holster near you... LC/KOTCS Webley!
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- IndyWannaBee
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#25....WHEW! Just made it by 2! Thanks mate! I know my almost completed homemade holster will not feel the same without this fine piece of "art" sitting in the holster!
I think that you should number them where it is visible possibly changing the patent number two final digits to the actual piece number. Is there a visible patent number ???
<Runs off to the Indy workshop to put the stained finish on homemade holster!>
I think that you should number them where it is visible possibly changing the patent number two final digits to the actual piece number. Is there a visible patent number ???
<Runs off to the Indy workshop to put the stained finish on homemade holster!>
- RC Halliburton
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My .38 has them on the back of the cylinder, the right side and if it's the same as the WG, on the side of the grip frame under the grips.RC Halliburton wrote:My .38 Webley has the SN stamped on the back of the cylinder, where the bullets are inserted...
When I get the punches I'll see how the number sizing compares to the original stampings.
Russ
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Some in progress pics.
Today I bought all new bolts for the kits that more closely resemble the
original ones. Or at least as close as I can get with an off the rack item.
I ground down the heads of the release lever bolts and they worked out
amazingly well compared to my prototype version.
The hinge pin however is giving me fits trying to drill out the center of the hinge bolt. It's been hit or miss, but eventually does work. Takes about 30 minutes just to get one of the little buggers to work.
Anyhow, on with the pics...
http://www.rookscastle.com/photos/resinwebley4.jpg
http://www.rookscastle.com/photos/resinwebley5.jpg
http://www.rookscastle.com/photos/resinwebley6.jpg
Russ
Today I bought all new bolts for the kits that more closely resemble the
original ones. Or at least as close as I can get with an off the rack item.
I ground down the heads of the release lever bolts and they worked out
amazingly well compared to my prototype version.
The hinge pin however is giving me fits trying to drill out the center of the hinge bolt. It's been hit or miss, but eventually does work. Takes about 30 minutes just to get one of the little buggers to work.
Anyhow, on with the pics...
http://www.rookscastle.com/photos/resinwebley4.jpg
http://www.rookscastle.com/photos/resinwebley5.jpg
http://www.rookscastle.com/photos/resinwebley6.jpg
Russ
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Just tested the final parts moulds late this afternoon.
The lanyard loop is a bit of a pain to make up and be functional, but it looks pretty cool when complete. I tried making my own wire loops and using off the shelf parts, but I ended up going with some pre made stainless steel links. I got 3 cut before my reenforced cutting wheel died,
so I'll have to get some more of those.
I'm ordering more resin this week (and casting metal) as well. I have 6 of the first 8 kits about 75 percent assembled, mainly just the hinge posts and release levers, but it sure looks nice seeing them all in a row.
More pics and general nonsense soon...
Russ
The lanyard loop is a bit of a pain to make up and be functional, but it looks pretty cool when complete. I tried making my own wire loops and using off the shelf parts, but I ended up going with some pre made stainless steel links. I got 3 cut before my reenforced cutting wheel died,
so I'll have to get some more of those.
I'm ordering more resin this week (and casting metal) as well. I have 6 of the first 8 kits about 75 percent assembled, mainly just the hinge posts and release levers, but it sure looks nice seeing them all in a row.
More pics and general nonsense soon...
Russ
- Rook
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Here's an example of something I've been messing with.
Does it look okay? Print size is about the size of a business card or so
and looks similar to this:
Would people want a specific logo from a specific adventure, or both? The problem with putting both is the fact there's not that much space, and if you shrink them down they'd be almost unreadable.
Mods, if this Isn't okay, feel free to edit/delete this post.
Russ
Does it look okay? Print size is about the size of a business card or so
and looks similar to this:
Would people want a specific logo from a specific adventure, or both? The problem with putting both is the fact there's not that much space, and if you shrink them down they'd be almost unreadable.
Mods, if this Isn't okay, feel free to edit/delete this post.
Russ
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I just sent out a whole mess of PMs to everyone who's said they want a Webley.
This PM is just to point you to the actual Run thread, where you can let
me know what style of kit you want (paint options, etc).
If you're no longer interested in one, just let me know and I can remove
you from the list.
Thanks!
Russ
This PM is just to point you to the actual Run thread, where you can let
me know what style of kit you want (paint options, etc).
If you're no longer interested in one, just let me know and I can remove
you from the list.
Thanks!
Russ
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- IndyWannaBee
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Pretty much. I could mod the moulds with a "tell" but I haven't found an unobtrusive location I like.
Blacklisted, heh, Like I'll turn away people who want the guns before I've even paid for the moulds, parts, materials?
Update: Today I took part of the day off work and... didn't get squat done.
After spending 2 hours buying and returning vices (the big chunks of metal you clamp things into to work on them), I decided that my original plan was not going to work, so I'll have to drill all the barrel tips by hand, rather than using the drill press.
Wet sanded 4 guns to remove most of the mould seams. This took forever, but looks pretty decent after a test coat of pain(t).
I plan on getting up early tomorrow and spending a "work day" working on the kits. Here's hoping I get further tomorrow than I did today.
Blacklisted, heh, Like I'll turn away people who want the guns before I've even paid for the moulds, parts, materials?
Update: Today I took part of the day off work and... didn't get squat done.
After spending 2 hours buying and returning vices (the big chunks of metal you clamp things into to work on them), I decided that my original plan was not going to work, so I'll have to drill all the barrel tips by hand, rather than using the drill press.
Wet sanded 4 guns to remove most of the mould seams. This took forever, but looks pretty decent after a test coat of pain(t).
I plan on getting up early tomorrow and spending a "work day" working on the kits. Here's hoping I get further tomorrow than I did today.
- IndyWannaBee
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Labor intensive... that's the understatement of the century.
Next time, NO FINISHING! Kits... everyone gets raw trimmed, test fitted kits.
I started thinking about it last night and I figure I have about 4+ hours of labor into each gun so far. What I discovered as I got into it is the fact the mould lines can still be seen after you paint. So I've been taking extra time to sand them down. That little discovery was a major time waster.
I worked from about 0830 to about 2045 yesterday on the things, with about a 2 hour break in there to run to the hardware store for more parts.
And...
Update: Got the first pass of painting done last night! yay! Got the barrels all drilled out, as well as the side parts for the detail parts, plus got the grips drilled, spray sealed and prepped for mounting.
Still have to finish the overall painting, plus make and assemble more lanyard loops. yay.
At least I can see the end of the first 6-7 in sight.
Russ
Next time, NO FINISHING! Kits... everyone gets raw trimmed, test fitted kits.
I started thinking about it last night and I figure I have about 4+ hours of labor into each gun so far. What I discovered as I got into it is the fact the mould lines can still be seen after you paint. So I've been taking extra time to sand them down. That little discovery was a major time waster.
I worked from about 0830 to about 2045 yesterday on the things, with about a 2 hour break in there to run to the hardware store for more parts.
And...
Update: Got the first pass of painting done last night! yay! Got the barrels all drilled out, as well as the side parts for the detail parts, plus got the grips drilled, spray sealed and prepped for mounting.
Still have to finish the overall painting, plus make and assemble more lanyard loops. yay.
At least I can see the end of the first 6-7 in sight.
Russ
- RC Halliburton
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Rook,
I wondered how that would pan out, when you first offered the different finishes.
It does open one up to a world of time consuming, custom work.
I'd be happy with assembled, bare metal. Just tell me what brand paint you're using for the factory finish :D
Please see my post on the stickied thread.
Cheers,
RCH
I wondered how that would pan out, when you first offered the different finishes.
It does open one up to a world of time consuming, custom work.
I'd be happy with assembled, bare metal. Just tell me what brand paint you're using for the factory finish :D
Please see my post on the stickied thread.
Cheers,
RCH
- Rook
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Thanks Mate! I'll just continue on and see how it goes. I promise to stop whining.
And Another update...
Only worked on them about 4.5 hours today. Got further than I honestly
thought I would. Ran out of paint, so I'll be hitting the store tomorrow.
Got all the lanyard ring holes drilled out, and mounted all the side pieces
that I had made up. Also numbered the guns.
I tried using the automotive punch set I bought, but it's just not working.
I think they're designed for thin Aluminum or brass/copper. I picked up a fine point dremmel bit and carefully hand numbered all the guns thus far.
I also printed off a list of the people who wanted guns, and realized a made a mistake, so Number 4 will have to be made after I get the new resin in (in a day or two).
And... Pics!
http://www.rookscastle.com/props/indy/webleygroup1.jpg
I have almost finished gun #1 though! Only the brass shells and front sight need painting and it's done!
Russ
And Another update...
Only worked on them about 4.5 hours today. Got further than I honestly
thought I would. Ran out of paint, so I'll be hitting the store tomorrow.
Got all the lanyard ring holes drilled out, and mounted all the side pieces
that I had made up. Also numbered the guns.
I tried using the automotive punch set I bought, but it's just not working.
I think they're designed for thin Aluminum or brass/copper. I picked up a fine point dremmel bit and carefully hand numbered all the guns thus far.
I also printed off a list of the people who wanted guns, and realized a made a mistake, so Number 4 will have to be made after I get the new resin in (in a day or two).
And... Pics!
http://www.rookscastle.com/props/indy/webleygroup1.jpg
I have almost finished gun #1 though! Only the brass shells and front sight need painting and it's done!
Russ
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Heh. That one was the first with the new numbering layout.Indy Magnoli wrote:
I know who this one is going to!
Kind regards,
Magnoli
The first two were different. I think that style is the best and hides nicely when the gun is closed.
Indy, did you want the brass colored front sight, or just "regular?"
Russ
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Russ,
I noticed a lot of guys want the brass colored sight covered with a blueing type finish with a touch of brass showing through. Including myself. What I have done on some of my real guns that have real brass sights is to use a black magic marker to "reblue" the brass sight. Regular cold blueing does not work on brass.
The magic marker trick works very well as the brass does seem to come through a bit.
Something to experiment with!
IB
I noticed a lot of guys want the brass colored sight covered with a blueing type finish with a touch of brass showing through. Including myself. What I have done on some of my real guns that have real brass sights is to use a black magic marker to "reblue" the brass sight. Regular cold blueing does not work on brass.
The magic marker trick works very well as the brass does seem to come through a bit.
Something to experiment with!
IB
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You overcounted mate, there's only 8. But if it makes you feel better, they ARE numbered 1-3, 5-9.IndyWannaBee wrote:Ooooooooooooo!
I counted 9 on that drying rack! Are you working on 9 at a time?
I cannot wait to see these in person!!! Love the numbering idea! Hey how about a ROOK Limited Certificate Of Authenticity?
Hmmm... I'll give that a try on the prototype and see what we get.The magic marker trick works very well as the brass does seem to come through a bit.
Russ
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Tried it on the prototype this morning and it looks okay. So I guess that's the direction I'll go, brass with black over.
Those of you who didn't want the bare brass sight, do you want the black over brass instead, or just black only?
Also, I talked to a person who makes display plaques for people's replicas.
I sent him my image for the pistol plaques and he can do them for about $12.50 each.
Would you guys be interested in a Master Replicas style plaque to go with your pistol? It would be printed on metal, just like the MR ones are.
Obviously, I can't afford to shell out an additional $340.00 for these out of my own pocket (I'm in deep as it is for the run), so I'll leave it up to you.
Everyone who has gotten them from this maker has been happy with them.
Keep in mind it would be black text on a metal colored plate. He does color ones also, but I think the metal ones are much classier.
These are some examples of what the metal ones look like...
If we go with this, I plan on making black resin copies of my MR motion tracker plaque stand, so the metal plaque will display nicely.
So, thoughts?
Russ
Those of you who didn't want the bare brass sight, do you want the black over brass instead, or just black only?
Also, I talked to a person who makes display plaques for people's replicas.
I sent him my image for the pistol plaques and he can do them for about $12.50 each.
Would you guys be interested in a Master Replicas style plaque to go with your pistol? It would be printed on metal, just like the MR ones are.
Obviously, I can't afford to shell out an additional $340.00 for these out of my own pocket (I'm in deep as it is for the run), so I'll leave it up to you.
Everyone who has gotten them from this maker has been happy with them.
Keep in mind it would be black text on a metal colored plate. He does color ones also, but I think the metal ones are much classier.
These are some examples of what the metal ones look like...
If we go with this, I plan on making black resin copies of my MR motion tracker plaque stand, so the metal plaque will display nicely.
So, thoughts?
Russ
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