Wested's current "standard" for the Raiders jacket
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Wested's current "standard" for the Raiders jacket
Okay, I've been doing a lot of research and it seems everyone has their own opinion of what is screen accurate. In an attempt to find specifications for my own jacket, my question now is what is the current "standard" for the Raiders jacket at Wested? I don't want to make a tedious list for Peter (which more than likely won't get more than a cursory glance) when most of the specifications have already been made standard. What are the significant differences? I might discover that I could be completely satisfied with the standard rather than worrying about specifications.
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That's actually pretty likely. I've been too out of touch to give you the rundown myself, but you'll probably find some threads like that if you do some digging.
Frankly, unless you NEED something non-standard, or are a stickly for 100% screen accuracy, ordering the standard jacket could be all you need.
Note there are minor diff's btwn his three jackets, (Raiders, TOD, LC). Those are your basic starting points. Getting yourself measured for a business suit/blazer should be about all you need to do - IF you go to a competent tailor. Many places take one look at you and tell you your size - that's not what I mean.
Frankly, unless you NEED something non-standard, or are a stickly for 100% screen accuracy, ordering the standard jacket could be all you need.
Note there are minor diff's btwn his three jackets, (Raiders, TOD, LC). Those are your basic starting points. Getting yourself measured for a business suit/blazer should be about all you need to do - IF you go to a competent tailor. Many places take one look at you and tell you your size - that's not what I mean.
To answer to afrayedknot original enquiry, the standard jacket is fine except some turn offs like the below
-Zipper is gauge 8 (too big) and doesn't run till the bottom.
-There are zipper facings (leather on the inside of the front panel on each side of the zipper.
-The pockets size and pocket flap shape are completely off (this is the most major turn off)
-Standard jacket comes with D rings on the side straps. (that's an easy fix tho)
-Pleats are too deep.
Sure I missed a few other things but these are the ones bugging me most.
-Zipper is gauge 8 (too big) and doesn't run till the bottom.
-There are zipper facings (leather on the inside of the front panel on each side of the zipper.
-The pockets size and pocket flap shape are completely off (this is the most major turn off)
-Standard jacket comes with D rings on the side straps. (that's an easy fix tho)
-Pleats are too deep.
Sure I missed a few other things but these are the ones bugging me most.
I believe my Wested special offer ROTLA is considered an 80's fit.
I'm pretty happy with it and probably would not have changed much if I was doing a custom order.
(sorry about the poor pic quality, my photographer is 5yrs old.)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2314/224 ... dd.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2063/224 ... 80.jpg?v=0
Tron
I'm pretty happy with it and probably would not have changed much if I was doing a custom order.
(sorry about the poor pic quality, my photographer is 5yrs old.)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2314/224 ... dd.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2063/224 ... 80.jpg?v=0
Tron
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Yes, the only "screen accurate" jackets, whether you like it or not, are the couple dozen (I can't recall the exact figure) that actually made it into production, are on the silver screen, AND reside at the Lucasfilm Archives, Harrison's residence, the Smithsonian, and a few other stragglers out there. That's it. Everything else will probably NEVER be 100%. Let's leave it at that.
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Ok trying to get this thread back to where it needs to go. If you want an off the rack wested jacket which I think is the standard for Raiders, your going to get a more baggy feel to the jacket. 80's fit is a bit more tighter and I will agree with Platon the jacket in the movie looks a bit more baggy. But you are looking for a jacket that fits you, not Harrison Ford. So if your a bit more slim (like I am) maybe you want to try an 80's fit. Or if your not a slim built, maybe standard is for you. I am not sure what Peter has set for standard, all I know is the standard pockets are more LC like, its a bigger brass zipper, d-rings instead of rectangular, ( you can request recantgular buckles or get some from Peter or somewhere else). It really depends on what you want, again I personally have an 80's fit jacket and I like it, some others are not slim built so a standard fits them well. Personally my opinion the jacket in the movie is a bit baggy, but you are never going to get an exact screen accurate jacket. That is my two cents on it.
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I for one enjoy reading discussions on what is and is not SA.
My Wested is an off the rack version not sure when it was made though. It fits me similar to how HF wears his and I've even been able to get it to wrinkle up at the sleeves. I got mine from an RPF member a few years back and it was pretty new looking. I wheathered it up a bit but not TOO much. Just enough to break it in and soften it up. I love the fit. Not too loose not too tight.
I think the fit itself depends on the person and as for hobbies just so long as we enjoy doing it and it takes us away from our humdrum lives. A little escape is well worth the funds we put into it. JM2CW.
Cheers
My Wested is an off the rack version not sure when it was made though. It fits me similar to how HF wears his and I've even been able to get it to wrinkle up at the sleeves. I got mine from an RPF member a few years back and it was pretty new looking. I wheathered it up a bit but not TOO much. Just enough to break it in and soften it up. I love the fit. Not too loose not too tight.
I think the fit itself depends on the person and as for hobbies just so long as we enjoy doing it and it takes us away from our humdrum lives. A little escape is well worth the funds we put into it. JM2CW.
Cheers
Enough. We asked to get this back on track. It wasn't. We therefore went in and cleansed this thread. Now, stay on track or further posts will be deleted.Doug C wrote:All I'm sayin is that the tone around here (particularly the jacket section) is often discouraging rather than enthusiastic and IMHO it's partially caused by strick moderation.
Doug C
Doug C - if you don't like the job the Moderators and Admins are doing, like we said, post it in Feedback. We'll be happy to discuss it with you. But don't dirty up someone else's thread with your complaints.
... no, not...minnesota!! anything but that! Sorry i just couldn't resist.
As for Westeds current standard, I get the impression that it's basically the same as it's always been. Unless a custom jacket is requested you're likely to get a normal fit (non '80s) with a fairly large gauge brass zipper as well as brass D-rings, lots of leather around the inside of the zippers and the inside pocket. Everything else is up to fate, these are hand made items.
Doug C
As for Westeds current standard, I get the impression that it's basically the same as it's always been. Unless a custom jacket is requested you're likely to get a normal fit (non '80s) with a fairly large gauge brass zipper as well as brass D-rings, lots of leather around the inside of the zippers and the inside pocket. Everything else is up to fate, these are hand made items.
Doug C
One of the deleted replies by an admin (can't remember which) said something to the effect that off topic posters to this thread would be directed to Minnesota
BTW, Michaelson I hope none realises that your post is off topic
Hey folks, anyway you cut it those standard Wested's are truely a great value if your not a stickler for SA detail, and they'd definately make a great first jacket for those future SA nuts .
Doug C
BTW, Michaelson I hope none realises that your post is off topic
Hey folks, anyway you cut it those standard Wested's are truely a great value if your not a stickler for SA detail, and they'd definately make a great first jacket for those future SA nuts .
Doug C
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Come on Michaelson, now I've ticked you off, it was a joke..the thing about you being off topic..please, I figured you had tuffer skin than that, or maybe you just missed the humor in it? Maybe it's me that's missing something, if so sorry. But if that original Minnesota statement was indeed just directed at me, well that smells of excrement to borrow _'s frase.
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Afrayedknot -
I forgot to mention...my jacket is the wested LC, but I ended up with essentially a standard jacket.
Okay, I asked for two inner pockets with zips, because I carry lots of stuff, and I lose lots of stuff). But as far as the jacket lengths and construction, no mods. I like it, I get compliments.
There's no x-box stiching on the anchor points of the straps, but I never look there anyway so I don't care.
It has the standard d-rings, and they work alright (I got the lambskin), but then I don't play with them a lot, so the straps have gotten a nice indentation where I want the rings to stay. And again, I never look there, but I understand the box sliders have a better grip. If you might be adjusting a lot (I know, how could you tell before getting one?), you might want to ask for sliders.
I got myself measured, and I measured myself (for good measure). Comparing that to Wested's sizing charts online, I realized my measurments were pretty much dead-on the standard for a 44R, even though I typically like a little longer sleeves due to my monkeyish arms.
So I got the 44, and it fits well. If I had to do it again, I might focus on just a little extra sleeve, but I am more than happy with - scratch that - I love my standard jacket. I got the LC over the ROTLA for the bigger pockets and the snaps on the storm flap. (I'm a gadget guy, I like pockets.)
So for me, yeah, I basically ordered a standard and just asked for the ONE mod I wanted him not to miss. Because I agree with you on the list order method...the more you ask for custom, the more likely something will be missed.
Oh, and the collar on my LC doesn't seem large to me. Seems perfect.
So as I understand it the TOD only differs from the ROTLA by being a few inches longer.
And the LC only differs from the ROTLA in three ways: larger collar, press studs (snaps) at the too and bottom of the storm flap, and larger outer cargo pockets.
Someone correct me if there are other 'basic' differences.
As for what other trim bits are standard (pocket size/placement on the ROTLA, xbox stitching, sliders vs. D-rings, etc) I think that has varied a bit over the years, so if there are any of those you singularly care about ask, maybe others here know, we can often get answers from Peter, and emails/calls to wested sometimes clear things up as well.
Then you can focus on ordering a standard jacket, if that works for you, with possibly the few tweaks you care about. (like my two inner pockets with zips.)
Hope that helps at all -
J
I forgot to mention...my jacket is the wested LC, but I ended up with essentially a standard jacket.
Okay, I asked for two inner pockets with zips, because I carry lots of stuff, and I lose lots of stuff). But as far as the jacket lengths and construction, no mods. I like it, I get compliments.
There's no x-box stiching on the anchor points of the straps, but I never look there anyway so I don't care.
It has the standard d-rings, and they work alright (I got the lambskin), but then I don't play with them a lot, so the straps have gotten a nice indentation where I want the rings to stay. And again, I never look there, but I understand the box sliders have a better grip. If you might be adjusting a lot (I know, how could you tell before getting one?), you might want to ask for sliders.
I got myself measured, and I measured myself (for good measure). Comparing that to Wested's sizing charts online, I realized my measurments were pretty much dead-on the standard for a 44R, even though I typically like a little longer sleeves due to my monkeyish arms.
So I got the 44, and it fits well. If I had to do it again, I might focus on just a little extra sleeve, but I am more than happy with - scratch that - I love my standard jacket. I got the LC over the ROTLA for the bigger pockets and the snaps on the storm flap. (I'm a gadget guy, I like pockets.)
So for me, yeah, I basically ordered a standard and just asked for the ONE mod I wanted him not to miss. Because I agree with you on the list order method...the more you ask for custom, the more likely something will be missed.
Oh, and the collar on my LC doesn't seem large to me. Seems perfect.
So as I understand it the TOD only differs from the ROTLA by being a few inches longer.
And the LC only differs from the ROTLA in three ways: larger collar, press studs (snaps) at the too and bottom of the storm flap, and larger outer cargo pockets.
Someone correct me if there are other 'basic' differences.
As for what other trim bits are standard (pocket size/placement on the ROTLA, xbox stitching, sliders vs. D-rings, etc) I think that has varied a bit over the years, so if there are any of those you singularly care about ask, maybe others here know, we can often get answers from Peter, and emails/calls to wested sometimes clear things up as well.
Then you can focus on ordering a standard jacket, if that works for you, with possibly the few tweaks you care about. (like my two inner pockets with zips.)
Hope that helps at all -
J
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Sorry, that in all the hubub your pics got lost.Tron7960 wrote:I believe my Wested special offer ROTLA is considered an 80's fit.
I'm pretty happy with it and probably would not have changed much if I was doing a custom order.
(sorry about the poor pic quality, my photographer is 5yrs old.)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2314/224 ... dd.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2063/224 ... 80.jpg?v=0
Tron
Having seen the Special Offer jacket "fresh-out-of-the-box" I'd sort of pooh poohed it.
But that jackets looks GREAT. Looks like it responds to distressing well and the proportions work really well. You've done really nice job on tha one.
I've tried them on several times, but Peter WON'T sell me one! he says they are cut too long for me LOL!!
Tron, that is one of the best looking jackets I've seen on anyone here, period. It was not a custom order? Well, that is nice and tempting. It's got the look that many here strive for when putting together a custom order. I agree with Aeris_Canon about the sleeve relationship to the body length, it looks perfect. I however doubt that Wested made a concerted effort to get these like that across the board, more than likely that length issue would differ from jacket to jacket, hopefully others will show up and we'll know for sure - but then again KT did write this : but Peter WON'T sell me one! he says they are cut too long for me LOL!! So there is hope..
JMO as always.
Doug C[/quote]
JMO as always.
Doug C[/quote]
Thanks for the feedback everyone.
The shoulder pads are still in ( I was going to remove them but so far they don't bother me like I thought they would).
As far as the waist to sleeve ratio goes, I can get back with more pics later, but to me, theylook like they line up pretty close to each other.
Tron
The shoulder pads are still in ( I was going to remove them but so far they don't bother me like I thought they would).
As far as the waist to sleeve ratio goes, I can get back with more pics later, but to me, theylook like they line up pretty close to each other.
Tron
Platon wrote:
C3
Again, Platon, what do you feel is the optimum depth for the pleats on a SA raiders jacket? Do you think it is the same depth for all of the films?-Zipper is gauge 8 (too big) and doesn't run till the bottom.
-There are zipper facings (leather on the inside of the front panel on each side of the zipper.
-The pockets size and pocket flap shape are completely off (this is the most major turn off)
-Standard jacket comes with D rings on the side straps. (that's an easy fix tho)
-Pleats are too deep.
C3
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Umm...my first Wested (which was an LC) has shoulder pads. I didn't ask for them, it just came that way. I bought this jacket from Wested in late (November) 2002.Michaelson wrote:I've been sitting here scratching my head over that too, Doug.
I've never seen shoulder pads in any of my Wested jackets, custom or off the rack.
Regards! Michaelson
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It's okay to talk about the shoulder pads as a standard feature of the Special Order jacket (if that's still an available option for afrayedknot?), but a detailed discussion of the merits of the special order jacket or a history of shoulder pads ought to get their own threads, if you don't mind, folks. (thanks for pointing that out, AC...I forgot what the topic was too!)
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Sorry if I took things off topic.
In re-reading the original question, I see that I mistook "standard" to mean a measure of the current "norm" if you will.
I didn't think of it as a specific jacket offered by Wested but rather simply what you get if you go "off the rack"
I'll provide more details to those interested in an appropriate thread.
Thanks
Tron
In re-reading the original question, I see that I mistook "standard" to mean a measure of the current "norm" if you will.
I didn't think of it as a specific jacket offered by Wested but rather simply what you get if you go "off the rack"
I'll provide more details to those interested in an appropriate thread.
Thanks
Tron
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Oh hey, Tron, I think you're okay (and a landmark when we get to discussing the progression of computer generated graphics in cinema) with your punt of the special order - if that is still an orderable item. I just wanted to curtail the tangents into shoulder pad discussions and what was starting to look like a deeper discussion of the merits of the special order jacket...
...and just for fun and to show we're being fair here... _, you're off topic. Run away!
...and just for fun and to show we're being fair here... _, you're off topic. Run away!
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I sent Gemma the specs for my first Indy jacket to determine which, if any, were now considered "standard." I'm trying to avoid sending Peter an overly long list. Here are the specs I sent:
JACKET SPECS
Leather – Dark Brown Horsehide (does the Horsehide come in any other colors?)
Pattern – Standard cut
Lining – Cotton Silesia lining with satin sleeves
Zipper – 5 gauge nickel zipper with small zipper pull that extends to the bottom of the jacket (do I need to supply this?)
Leather facing – NO inside leather facing on the zipper
Storm flap – 1 ½ inches width; ROUNDED top corner
Collar stand – Leather collar stand
Collar – Raiders collar; left collar to join the storm flap halfway between zipper and edge (or ¾ inches from the edge of the flap)
Pockets – PLATON’s pockets
Side strap – Length 7 inches; sewn with X-box pattern; double-stitched
Side strap buckles – BLACK rectangular sliders (do I need to supply these?)
Side vent stitch – NO stitch holding the side vents closed
Pleat depth – 1 ½ inches
Yoke seam – 1 inch higher than arm seam
Back panel – extend all the way out to the sleeve seam
Inside pocket – Left side, slit (less leather) “piped” pocket
Underarm gussets – 1 piece (small) underarm gussets
Here was Gemma's reply:
Dear Sir
Thanks for your email,the standard jackets that we class are reg sizes jackets with brass zipper,d rings standard sizes pockets.
I hope this has helped you.
Thanks Gemma
It wasn't overly helpful. So, I'm hoping someone here might have some insight. Thanks, again, for any help.
JACKET SPECS
Leather – Dark Brown Horsehide (does the Horsehide come in any other colors?)
Pattern – Standard cut
Lining – Cotton Silesia lining with satin sleeves
Zipper – 5 gauge nickel zipper with small zipper pull that extends to the bottom of the jacket (do I need to supply this?)
Leather facing – NO inside leather facing on the zipper
Storm flap – 1 ½ inches width; ROUNDED top corner
Collar stand – Leather collar stand
Collar – Raiders collar; left collar to join the storm flap halfway between zipper and edge (or ¾ inches from the edge of the flap)
Pockets – PLATON’s pockets
Side strap – Length 7 inches; sewn with X-box pattern; double-stitched
Side strap buckles – BLACK rectangular sliders (do I need to supply these?)
Side vent stitch – NO stitch holding the side vents closed
Pleat depth – 1 ½ inches
Yoke seam – 1 inch higher than arm seam
Back panel – extend all the way out to the sleeve seam
Inside pocket – Left side, slit (less leather) “piped” pocket
Underarm gussets – 1 piece (small) underarm gussets
Here was Gemma's reply:
Dear Sir
Thanks for your email,the standard jackets that we class are reg sizes jackets with brass zipper,d rings standard sizes pockets.
I hope this has helped you.
Thanks Gemma
It wasn't overly helpful. So, I'm hoping someone here might have some insight. Thanks, again, for any help.
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afrayedknot, if you want to change your mind to the 80's cut you better do it now. It sound like from Gemma e-mail that I think she thinks your getting a standard jacket, brass zipper, d-rings, etc. I would send another e-mail telling her that you want the aluminum zipper and retangular sliders. If you don't, don't be surprised if you get what has just happened to me today. I got second wested order changed from 80's cut to standard cut and they screwed the whole jacket up. The only spec they got right was the collar. The pockets are wierd looking 5x8, the collar does not even meet midway of the storm flap and the pockets are not great looking. Compared to my other jacket where they nailed the specs. I like the fit of the standard 40 and length, I am not happy about the zipper which is brass when I asked for aluminum. They also forget more things too, they forgot to put rectangular sliders on this jacket and send me some for my other jacket and samples. If it take you only two minutes to do switch out the D-rings Peter why can't you do it?? Wested seems in a hurry as I got my order well before I should have, it was just less than a month. If they would take their time, maybe they would not have to make me another jacket. I hope your order turns out better than mine.
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IndianaChris
Last edited by IndianaChris711 on Wed Feb 27, 2008 2:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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This is exactly the reason why I still hesitate to order a SA custom.
I'm afraid I will get a standard jacket back instead.
I truly hope Peter will upgrade the standard Raiders to an even more SA jacket than his special offer.
I'm afraid I will get a standard jacket back instead.
I truly hope Peter will upgrade the standard Raiders to an even more SA jacket than his special offer.
Last edited by Rom Hunter on Mon Mar 10, 2008 7:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Well my order was a custom, but I wanted to just change the cut from a 80's to a standard cut. I thought this could be done. I was the one who talked to Peter on the phone and he asked him if I still wanted my specs, and I said yes, but obviously something happened because I did not get what I ordered in my custom. Oh well I am going to have to send the jacket back and see what Peter can do. Do i need to contact Peter and let him know what needs to be done to the jacket or just send him a list of what was wrong and what I would like it to be. Anyone got any info on that??
IndianaChris
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IndianaChris - WOW! That's quite a few "mistakes"! Did you send a list of specs with your order? I haven't ordered mine yet. I just e-mailed my specs to Gemma for review. I'm just not certain what is considered "standard" and what would be considered "custom". After your recent experience, I'm a bit reluctant to send a specs list with my order. I know Peter is busy, but this seems a bit . . . distracted. I wonder if it would make any difference if I mentioned that I'm in no particular hurry to receive my order.
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I sent in my specs...and got exactly what I had asked for....I think Peter took it all down, got it all right, and sent it out asap. It was a month wait and it is my favourite jacket now....however, I wish now I had not asked for smaller pockets as my hands don't quite fit in....but that was my mistake for asking for it...it looks great though, especially the collar!
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afrayedknot, Yes they did make a lot of mistakes, I guess the greatest thing about wested is that they are going to fix them somehow, I am not sure if that means making me a new jacket and starting all over I am not sure. The first jacket I sent in my specs and got exactly what I asked for except for the collar which to me was no big deal, just was a little larger. This second one was a big miss. So don't be worried about sending your specs in, if they made a mistake like they did in my case you can send the jacket back and they will refund you the shipping. It is just the chance you take ordering a jacket from them. So we will see what happens with the jacket situation.
IndianaChris
IndianaChris
Just make sure they understand that you want a CUSTOM jacket (you 'll pay more for that), because it appears that when Gemma read "standard cut" replied to you without bothering to read the rest of your specs.afrayedknot, Yes they did make a lot of mistakes, I guess the greatest thing about wested is that they are going to fix them somehow, I am not sure if that means making me a new jacket and starting all over I am not sure. The first jacket I sent in my specs and got exactly what I asked for except for the collar which to me was no big deal, just was a little larger. This second one was a big miss. So don't be worried about sending your specs in, if they made a mistake like they did in my case you can send the jacket back and they will refund you the shipping. It is just the chance you take ordering a jacket from them. So we will see what happens with the jacket situation.
IndianaChris
Make sure they understand what you want. Probably say you want everything an 80s cut jacket has except the 80s cut.
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- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 2:09 am
- Location: West Lafayette, Indiana
I don't want to be a bother, but do you think I should contact Gemma by phone and go over each of the specifications separately to determine what I should actually include in my list? With some of the recent postings commenting on the disappointments of their Westeds, I'd like to make it easier for Peter to include all of my requests.afrayedknot wrote:I sent Gemma the specs for my first Indy jacket to determine which, if any, were now considered "standard." I'm trying to avoid sending Peter an overly long list. Here are the specs I sent:
JACKET SPECS
Leather – Dark Brown Horsehide (does the Horsehide come in any other colors?)
Pattern – Standard cut
Lining – Cotton Silesia lining with satin sleeves
Zipper – 5 gauge nickel zipper with small zipper pull that extends to the bottom of the jacket (do I need to supply this?)
Leather facing – NO inside leather facing on the zipper
Storm flap – 1 ½ inches width; ROUNDED top corner
Collar stand – Leather collar stand
Collar – Raiders collar; left collar to join the storm flap halfway between zipper and edge (or ¾ inches from the edge of the flap)
Pockets – PLATON’s pockets (do I need to specify size and distances, or will they understand what this means?)
Side strap – Length 7 inches; sewn with X-box pattern; double-stitched
Side strap buckles – BLACK rectangular sliders (do I need to supply these?)
Side vent stitch – NO stitch holding the side vents closed
Pleat depth – 1 ½ inches
Yoke seam – 1 inch higher than arm seam
Back panel – extend all the way out to the sleeve seam
Inside pocket – Left side, slit (less leather) “piped” pocket
Underarm gussets – 1 piece (small) underarm gussets
Here was Gemma's reply:
Dear Sir
Thanks for your email,the standard jackets that we class are reg sizes jackets with brass zipper,d rings standard sizes pockets.
I hope this has helped you.
Thanks Gemma
It wasn't overly helpful. So, I'm hoping someone here might have some insight. Thanks, again, for any help.
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- Professor of Archaeology
- Posts: 821
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:51 am
- Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
I can tell you which ones are standard on that list. You don't need lining as you can choose that on the custom website as well as leather type. Dark Brown Horsehide...really. I thought they just offered authetic brown horsehide. Storm flap at 1.5 inches is standard now I wouldn't worry about that. Peter puts leather collar stands on all jackets now. Pleat depth is standard at 1.5 inches. Unless you want pleat depth more than that you are fine on that.
All of the other stuff you need to put into you specifications afrayedknot. If you put Platon's pockets, they will know what your talking about since Peter has a pattern of his pockets available. I would say the key areas for specifications to be met would be pockets, zipper, no facings, slim inside pocket, side strap with X box pattern and double stitched, gussets, collar is important but if they miss by less than a quarter of an inch it is not a big deal. Yoke seam they may or may not get. I think one thing you need to include on there is collar needs to meet storm flap halfway. Otherwise I think your good. I hope this helps afrayedknot, if you got a question just PM me. Good luck whenever you place your order.
IndianaChris
All of the other stuff you need to put into you specifications afrayedknot. If you put Platon's pockets, they will know what your talking about since Peter has a pattern of his pockets available. I would say the key areas for specifications to be met would be pockets, zipper, no facings, slim inside pocket, side strap with X box pattern and double stitched, gussets, collar is important but if they miss by less than a quarter of an inch it is not a big deal. Yoke seam they may or may not get. I think one thing you need to include on there is collar needs to meet storm flap halfway. Otherwise I think your good. I hope this helps afrayedknot, if you got a question just PM me. Good luck whenever you place your order.
IndianaChris