Resin Webley MARK VI
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- Swindiana
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Resin Webley MARK VI
I got a package from Azuma today containing an idol and this little fella:
Side view:
Side view:
Detail:
Detail:
Some very minor fixes left and she's good for a paint job.
(It was cast with rounds in the chamber which are very nicely detailed aswell.)
My question touches the grips.
I'm assuming the originals were bakelite ones. I've seen shots of the MkVI with grips being all black, and some with a red/brown tint to them. (I've seen this in the bakelite parts of German MP40 SMG's aswell.)
What do you think; All black or very dark brown/red?
Regards,
Swindiana
Side view:
Side view:
Detail:
Detail:
Some very minor fixes left and she's good for a paint job.
(It was cast with rounds in the chamber which are very nicely detailed aswell.)
My question touches the grips.
I'm assuming the originals were bakelite ones. I've seen shots of the MkVI with grips being all black, and some with a red/brown tint to them. (I've seen this in the bakelite parts of German MP40 SMG's aswell.)
What do you think; All black or very dark brown/red?
Regards,
Swindiana
- Indiana G
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you're looking at it. azuma had these beauties up for sale in the cairo bazaar (i have a feeling that i spelt that wrong). they were out of his private collection.Whats the website?
i believe these are old artsee1 reproductions but i am not sure. azuma told me he got the s&w bapty from someone in florida which is where artsee1 is located iirc.
- Swindiana
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I tried it but I wasn't strong enough... I'll snap some shots after I've found the hacksaw...Indiana G wrote:hey swin.....can you post a pic of the gun's break open feature.....i hear the resin ones are a little sticky so you better put some elbow grease into it
Not sure about where it is from since Azuma couldn't remember. (He used to have three different ones from what I believe different manufacturers, and this was the best one he ever saw.)
It as amazingly detailed and I like the weight compared to a hollow plastic one. At $50 it was an amazing find! Thank you, Azuma.
I'm still debating whether or not to remove the resin residue below the trigger, thinking it migh render that part a bit fragile... We'll see.
I must say that ToD Colt looks great too!
Regards,
Swindiana
- Swindiana
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Now I know why there is a "pain" in the term 'pain-t job'.
Anyway, here's a pic:
A couple more HERE and HERE.
The details didn't show up very well when photographed, maybe I'll give it another shot later. I''ll have to add som brass color for the shells aswell as attaching a lanyard ring to it.
Regards,
Swindiana
Anyway, here's a pic:
A couple more HERE and HERE.
The details didn't show up very well when photographed, maybe I'll give it another shot later. I''ll have to add som brass color for the shells aswell as attaching a lanyard ring to it.
Regards,
Swindiana
- Indiana G
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i think thats a very nice paint job swin but if you do add the brass on the shells, it would even look cooler i think.
btw, the little eyelet IS the lanyard ring. they're not that big on the webley's. my actual webley has one which is just a tadd bigger but in no means the size of the lanyward loop that you'd see on the s&w. correct me if i am wrong, but i think they used 'shoelace-like' lanyards for these revolvers back in the day.
btw, the little eyelet IS the lanyard ring. they're not that big on the webley's. my actual webley has one which is just a tadd bigger but in no means the size of the lanyward loop that you'd see on the s&w. correct me if i am wrong, but i think they used 'shoelace-like' lanyards for these revolvers back in the day.
- binkmeisterRick
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- Indiana G
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sorry...my bad. i stand corrected. i guess i should look closer at my own
be careful though swin on attaching something to that small chunk of resin as you don't want to break it off. the s&w that i got from azuma has a larger lanyard ring on there and that thing is gonna break if it hits something.
i think it would be a good design improvement if artsee did the same old resin replica's but drilled in functioning lanyard rings into them....then you can get the authentic rattling when you're running away from the security gaurds....er...i mean hovitos
be careful though swin on attaching something to that small chunk of resin as you don't want to break it off. the s&w that i got from azuma has a larger lanyard ring on there and that thing is gonna break if it hits something.
i think it would be a good design improvement if artsee did the same old resin replica's but drilled in functioning lanyard rings into them....then you can get the authentic rattling when you're running away from the security gaurds....er...i mean hovitos
- binkmeisterRick
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- Swindiana
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The funny thing is I don't think this is ordinary resin.
I'm not all that familiar with resin props, but a lightsaber I handled and gave away after painting it was far more brittle than this one and pinkish in color. The color also seemed gray/grey/black all the way through, so it wasn't painted prehand of me getting it. With that, I think I should be able to safely apply a ring on it for looks.
(I won't be riding horses shooting at tanks with it anyway).
Now on to figuring out who made it...
Regards,
Swindiana
I'm not all that familiar with resin props, but a lightsaber I handled and gave away after painting it was far more brittle than this one and pinkish in color. The color also seemed gray/grey/black all the way through, so it wasn't painted prehand of me getting it. With that, I think I should be able to safely apply a ring on it for looks.
(I won't be riding horses shooting at tanks with it anyway).
Now on to figuring out who made it...
Regards,
Swindiana
- Swindiana
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Russ;
Thanks for the info!
Apart from that, it also seems more close to "oily" plastic than resin. It wouldn't crack while carving away residue like the saber residue did.
No matter really, apart from that it seems like a high quality material cast either way and I'm really happy with it.
Thanks.
Regards,
Swindiana
Thanks for the info!
Apart from that, it also seems more close to "oily" plastic than resin. It wouldn't crack while carving away residue like the saber residue did.
No matter really, apart from that it seems like a high quality material cast either way and I'm really happy with it.
Thanks.
Regards,
Swindiana
- Rook
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Is it slightly "sticky" to the touch?
If you hand dye resin, sometimes you can get inconsistant results. That's true with the mixing of resin itself as well. If it's not mixed properly you can get oddness occurring.
Actually, now that I think about it, the "oily" surface may just be mould release. A spray some use in the silicone mould so that the resin pieces come right out without sticking.
It also keeps paint from sticking correctly, so one should wash the resin with a light mix of warm dishwater before painting.
Russ
If you hand dye resin, sometimes you can get inconsistant results. That's true with the mixing of resin itself as well. If it's not mixed properly you can get oddness occurring.
Actually, now that I think about it, the "oily" surface may just be mould release. A spray some use in the silicone mould so that the resin pieces come right out without sticking.
It also keeps paint from sticking correctly, so one should wash the resin with a light mix of warm dishwater before painting.
Russ
- Swindiana
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Not sticky to the touch, though "ductile", yet hard.
A very smooth and shiny surface and not brittle I think is another way to describe it.
With "oily" I sort of meant the tensile strength of a PET bottle, though more compact?
(I'll fax you a copy of the thing instead).
I'm sure you're right though, I could tell there was a lot of effort put into this from how crisp the details are.
Again, thanks for the info.
Best,
Swindiana
A very smooth and shiny surface and not brittle I think is another way to describe it.
With "oily" I sort of meant the tensile strength of a PET bottle, though more compact?
(I'll fax you a copy of the thing instead).
I'm sure you're right though, I could tell there was a lot of effort put into this from how crisp the details are.
Again, thanks for the info.
Best,
Swindiana
- IndyTaz
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Well if you sent them in parts and they were resin and not metal...and maybe if you sprayed them pink. They might get through. The customs stance is if it can be mistaken for a weapon/gun/firearm for all intents and purposes they regard it as one and you need the correct permits and club membershipes ect:)
Regards
Christian
Regards
Christian
- Rook
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According to one report that I read, violent crime involving the use of firearms went up like 60% over the previous year, the year that the Australian Govt. enacted the gun surrender/buyback program.
Of course I imagine like anything you read, there is some margin for error.
No offense intended to our Australian brothers of course.
This IS the land that gave us Mad Max (One of my all time favorite films. ).
*EDIT*
Did some more reading, and the percentages appear to be off base in some aspects, depending on who's doing the reporting. Some say the "ban" has decreased crime, others say it hasn't. I guess it boils down to which sources you choose to believe.
I believe Nazi's armed with alien weaponry from Area 51 will attampt to take over the world, and only a handful of archaeologists turned Nazi Hunters armed with nearly 100 year old weapons will stop them.
But I seem to be in the minority...
Russ
Of course I imagine like anything you read, there is some margin for error.
No offense intended to our Australian brothers of course.
This IS the land that gave us Mad Max (One of my all time favorite films. ).
*EDIT*
Did some more reading, and the percentages appear to be off base in some aspects, depending on who's doing the reporting. Some say the "ban" has decreased crime, others say it hasn't. I guess it boils down to which sources you choose to believe.
I believe Nazi's armed with alien weaponry from Area 51 will attampt to take over the world, and only a handful of archaeologists turned Nazi Hunters armed with nearly 100 year old weapons will stop them.
But I seem to be in the minority...
Russ
Last edited by Rook on Sun Aug 26, 2007 2:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- binkmeisterRick
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Hi fellow fans of Indy. I am sorry I have not been around much lately. Regarding the stickiness- Occasionally a mold gets redone. The guns that come out of it just before they are ready to be tossed may have had a little release still stuck to them before being painted and may be slightly sticky in a few places. When this happens the next step is to redo the mold so that no release is needed. I have done this several times now. If there is a sticky one or two out there it is something that may have occurred after it sat a while. I have also switched away from doing enamel spray on the grips to Acrylic spray. The extra enamel spray on the grips was put there so that the paint didn't rub off as much over repeated use and it was reacting more to the release on the last guns out of the old mold than the paint it self so I stopped using it. Minor touch ups are easy to do for you multiple weekends a year warriors who wear your stuff out fast. If you are scared about breaking your triggers off either don't squeeze them or permanently attach the with super glue to the bottom part and that will be less likely to happen. Also most breakage can be fixed with super glue.
All my molds have been redone now in a special material that never needs release. It is much stronger than silicone.
Paul
All my molds have been redone now in a special material that never needs release. It is much stronger than silicone.
Paul
Ring Measurement
Swindiana,
Sorry I'm late to this thread, but you asked:
Actually, almost all of the shots I've seen have the extra ring on it:
So I'm thinking I still might add it.
Anyone with a good measurement?
The lanyard ring on my genuine WWII Webley MkVI measures:
.765 in. OD
.516 in. ID
about .126 in wire diameter.
Material looks to be steel.
Ends (there the C closes) are just butted, not welded.
The revolver itself is dull blued with some brown tint over steel where bluing is worn, like the bottom of the trigger guard. (Not high gloss deep blue like on the original S&Ws.)
Regards,
Indy45
Sorry I'm late to this thread, but you asked:
Actually, almost all of the shots I've seen have the extra ring on it:
So I'm thinking I still might add it.
Anyone with a good measurement?
The lanyard ring on my genuine WWII Webley MkVI measures:
.765 in. OD
.516 in. ID
about .126 in wire diameter.
Material looks to be steel.
Ends (there the C closes) are just butted, not welded.
The revolver itself is dull blued with some brown tint over steel where bluing is worn, like the bottom of the trigger guard. (Not high gloss deep blue like on the original S&Ws.)
Regards,
Indy45