UPDATED11/22: Comparison: Todd's Custom vs. Todd's Standard!

Discuss all of the intricacies of the jacket in full detail

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UPDATED11/22: Comparison: Todd's Custom vs. Todd's Standard!

Post by Bogie1943 »

Well, my jacket arrived from Todd today. It's a 40 S as described by Todd. I order a 38 but Todd had this one ready and sent it to me to try. So I am going to keep her. The fit is very good, fit's me much like my best fitting Expedition. I have to say this 40 fits more like a 38 at least to me.

However, I am not going to be comparing Todd's jacket to the Expedition because I feel it is more along the lines of a Wested in terms of overall quality.

To start, the cowhide is very light, great for warm weather, and much lighter than my old Wested cowhide. The leather is a little thin I must say. That is not bad thing per say. Quality of leather is good, over all pigment distribution is decent and it seems to be pretty strong.

Stitching is the biggest problem so I will get it out of the way. Inconsistent stitching is a problem I have found in every Wested I have owned and this jacket as well. Now to clarify that, the stitching is pretty good, I am not saying it is terrible. I also know that this jacket is still an infant and Todd is working very hard to get this first rush out to us. Stitching flubs are the same kind I have found on my Wested's so it is not a total surprise out of left field.

One other thing that bothers me is on the side straps. There is a split down the middle of the backside that appears to glued together. (see pic below)

Image

The one thing I have always been picky about on the jacket is the pocket flaps. I have always wanted the right amount and shape of scallop. I really like the pockets overall on Todd's jacket. The size, flaps, overall shape.

Gussets are good, I prefer two piece, and there appear to have been some stitching mistakes, but I can live with it, not something you see all time anyway.

The lining body appears to be a cotton whereas the sleeves are a flat, in tone, satin. I like.

The way the shoulders and cuffs are cut remind me of my first Wested, also a cowhide. I would like to see the cuffs more tapered toward the end.

I wanted to be honest with this review. I respect Todd greatly for taking this task on because we all know it's not an easy one. Overall, I am pretty pleased with the jacket. I think there is some room for improvement and judging by Todd's track record he will make those improvements. I am sure I have more thoughts but they are not coming to me at this time. Anyway, on to the pics:


Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I have more pics to post, mainly of me wearing the jacket. I will try to rotate them in at a later date to conserve server space of the forum. These pictures were shot with a lighting setup and a light flash just for reference to you.

Cheers,
Josh
Last edited by Bogie1943 on Thu Nov 22, 2007 2:10 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Post by Indiana G »

thanks for the review bogie. i am quite impressed with the attention to detail on the straps. todd has followed the following screen cap to a T (or in this instance, a 1/2 X :wink: )

Image

my only concern is that the pocket flaps are a little more rounded in this latest version where the previous offering was already nicely sculpted IMO.

the leather looks very nice and soft but has that wested sheen to it...another thing that i liked about the previous offerings in lamb and calf...it already looked like it got the isopropyl alcohol treatment.

so the burning question is...how does it look on you? 8)
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Post by Bogie1943 »

Well :wink: , the jacket does look really good on me I must say. It fits me very well and looks good with my new Magnoli pants that came in the day before :D I have to say that down the road once this jacket breaks in, I will like it more than I do now. It always goes that way, they grow on me and become more personal. I'm looking forward to it.
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Post by Technonut »

Thanks for the review and pics Bogie1943. Overall it seems to be a fine SA jacket IMO. :clap: Hmmm.. I was supposedly 12 or 13 on the list. It looks like mine (also cowhide) should be arriving soon. ;)

I am happy to hear you say the fit is good... That is one of the most important things to me... I look forward to seeing pics of you wearing the jacket.

Wear it in good health!
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Post by Indiana G »

thats exactly it bogie. it will grow on you once you get some nice memories in her.

for instance, my new hat is IMO, as close as you can get to the actual hat and it looks great on me.....yet i find myself longing to wear my older hat as that one has all of my new york memories in her :D

i wish you and your new companion happy trails and i hope you build some good memories into her.

cheers
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Post by Bogie1943 »

Tech I would expect an email from Todd soon saying your jacket is ready to cut as I was 11 on the list. All my jacket have grown on me, yes even my Expeditions grew on me. Lots of good memories there and in my Westeds too. Oh yes fit, that is my most important detail. I want an Indy jacket to fit like a 30's jacket, like Ford's. What really sold me on buying one of these was that _ provided his notes on the Expedition to Todd or something along those lines. I like that it is based on that and the details fellow members have discoved makes me feel very good about the jacket's SA.
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Post by IndyBlues »

Great looking jacket, Bogie. I agree those sleeves need some slight taper. It's hard to tell without pics of you wearing it, but the sleeves on my Todds jacket were very "bell-bottomed" as well. Of course, it was a bit big, so I will have to see when I get my replacement.
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Post by Chewing Wax »

I was going to say the split in the side strap looks terrible, but I see from the photo above that he believes that's SA. Never mind.
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Post by Bogie1943 »

Well judging myself on that screen grab that was used, odds are it did not exist. That shot that screen grab was taken from is a fairly wide shot of Harrison on the plane. It's a detail someone here suggested, I am not saying they were right or wrong. However, in terms of quality I think Todd should do away with the split on the strap. Granted the spilt doesn't look horrible but I have a feeling it will be something I have re-glue down the road

My sleeves do have some taper but not quite as much as I would like. I have thin arms so the taper you find on a Expedition is great for me.

Well, it's a about a day and the jacket is starting to break in some. After a little trick someone tought me aka sleeping in you new jacket. This cowhide is breaking in much like the hero jacket.

Follow the links below to view some pics of me wearing the jacket, more to come!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... ket007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... ket006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... ket008.jpg
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Post by IndyBlues »

Bogie, those sleeves don't look as wide while you wear it. I think it lools pretty darn good, actually. I think Todd is catching alot of the SA details, that have been lost, or altered over the years, in other jacket makers versions. I have a feeling the film jackets weren't as "user friendly" as we would hope they would be.
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Post by agent5 »

I see nothing at all wrong with the sleeves. You seem to be a thinner than normal person. From the pics I've seen of Expedition sleeves, they seem no less larger or smaller than your Todd jacket.
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Post by Bogie1943 »

When I look at the side profile of the sleeves they do have a bit of taper to them indeed. I agree 100%, the production jackets were made to last the length of the production and that's it. I am quite a thin person indeed but the sleeves on my expeditions are much more tapered. I am not so sure I agree with the split on the side strap. I can't see any real evidence of that split actually being there but I could be wrong.
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Post by Indiana Croft »

Nice lookin jacket my friend. Is it the way the pic's were taken or are the sleeves to short, they don't come down to the top thumb nuckle.
Otherwise I think Todds doing an awsome job. I'll be emailing him with my choice of leather.

Wear in good health.
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Post by Bogie1943 »

Personally I don't like sleeves what I consider to be too long, down to the thumb. I think if it comes down that far it is looking poorly cut and less 30's. One other thing about the fit, I am really liking the fit around my waist. I can really feel the side straps at work and there is just the right amount of room there. Another thing I want to add to the coloring of the leather. I really love the patina on this hide, really nice and warm. Under harsh light you can see some inconsistencies but normal light it looks great. I am wearing the jacket right now and I am really enjoying it. It really carries the Raiders look very well.
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Post by Castor Dioscuri »

I think the jacket looks really good on you! I think the colors really give off a opening-scene-Raiders vibe, judging from those outdoors pics. However, I do agree with Indiana Croft in that the sleeves could be a bit longer. And we need to see pics of it unzipped! ;) Otherwise, it can only get better once it softens up!

Image

Image
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Post by Bogie1943 »

To each his own on fit but I fully understand where you're coming from. Here is an pic of it unzipped and a close-up of the gusset!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... ket005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... ket014.jpg
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Post by Bogie1943 »

Here are some pics of the inside pocket detail and a comparison shot of the sleeve. That's my expedition goat on top.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... ket017.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... ket018.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... ket019.jpg
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Post by Kaplan »

I think the jacket is awesome Josh! I can't wait for mine to arrive (should be sometime early next week). Wear it well...IF ONLY IT WERE COLD ENOUGH OUTSIDE!!!! ](*,)
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Post by Bogie1943 »

Oh yes summer....it's never too hot for an Indy jacket. If Harrison can wear his in Tunisia, I can handle it here in Ohio....if not during the day in the evening for sure.

Enjoy your jacket when you get it. Maybe I should turn this thread into "Post you Todd's Jackets Here!" :wink:
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Post by davyjones007 »

your jacket looks great. It is hard to tell that it's cowhide. All of my cowhide jackets were so thick and bulky, your does not seem to have that problem at all. I would have to agree that the sleeve look fine and the pockets look great for that size jacket.
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Post by CM »

I think it the design looks pretty good. The finish is a bit wonky - that stitching (based on the photos) seems rough - far more random than my Wested. Looks like it was made in India! Maybe Todd'll get the quality control sorted over time.

Cheers - CM
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Post by orb »

This cowhide reminds me a bit of Wested's lambtouch! Just hope that this cowhide will start to wrinkle very soon :wink: Hopefully it won't be a bit to short in the sleeves then :-k

Much regards

orb
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Post by Bufflehead Jones »

I agree, the sleeves are too short. They are fine for a modern jacket, but Indy's jacket had sleeves that were really too long. That's the way that I like my Indy jacket. It is just a matter of how a person wants the sleeves to fit on their jacket.

Do you want to look like you bought the jacket at a stylish, modern jacket shop, or do you want to try to recreate the look of Indy's jacket?
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Post by Bogie1943 »

I want it to be comfortable for me and I could always have the sleeves altered.

Hey at least I have Templars accurate sleeve length: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... otTKen.jpg

:wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Post by Chewbacca Jones »

The only thing I see wrong with the sleeves is that they're brown... they should be gray! :shock: Oh, wait... wrong topic. :oops:
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Post by Puppetboy »

Josh, I'm glad you like the jacket - it does look good on you. Sorry about the errant stitch holes - I didn't see them before it went out. I printed the pictures and am going to have a talk with the seamstress who put that together... If it bothers you, feel free to send it back. I have a feeling you can't see them when you wear it, though.

Let's talk about sleeves. PLATON alerted me to this some time ago, and I think this is one area where the hero jacket differed from _'s stunt jacket. Check out the size of the cuff in these screen caps:

Image

Image

Image

Josh, when you get a chance, look at yourself in mirror and see if your sleeves don't look just like these pictures. I have several jackets (non-indy) with plain cuffs like this, and they are all actually larger.

As to the length, I think that was the length you asked for, and if you like it, then great! Wear it the way you like it!

As to the strap seam, I took my cue from this LC jacket:

Image

That, and the faintly visible seam on the flying wing screen cap are what I'm basing it on. I know that the LC jacket doesn't prove it was that way in Raiders, but it does show that Peter (sometimes) did do straps that way.

The cowhide is very lightweight, and with wear will really break in nicely. Josh, try crunching it up and see what happens! It will wrinkle in a very "Raiders" looking way.
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Post by Bogie1943 »

Hey Todd,

I tell you I am really enjoying the jacket. The gussets are fine with me, nothing that is really noticeable. The stitching problem is something I know you will take care of so no worries there. Overall the stitching is good. The sleeves are fine with me like I said, I think it matches Raiders just fine. Those screen grabs really show it. I think the sleeves look longer on Harrison's jacket because he often wears it very wide. Kinda hanging off his shoulders making the sleeves look longer. Like I said I like my sleeves cut more 30's and that's what I got from you. Looks like evidence is mounting on the split on the side strap. If it's screen accurate then I am totally happy with it. It is breaking in very nicely, I wore it all weekend, lol. You're doing great work and it can only get better from here.
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Post by Puppetboy »

Josh, I'm glad you like it. It is one of the few rewards of this job that I have - to make people happy.

The issues with the stitching are being worked out this minute. It's partially a machine problem. The underarm issue is one of feeding the leather under the machine foot. We'll solve that with removing the skive from that seam. The collar was due to problems getting the zipper in and we had to re-open a seam. Little details...

_, thanks for the info! Fascinating (to me) as always. I think the strap construction you describe is like the jacket Noel Howard has. The raw edge is on the bottom. Are you saying that some straps got sewn together? I can completely see that.

As to the sleeve, I think the jacket you saw might have had narrower sleeves, maybe cut from the same pattern as the Raiders stunt/TOD hero jacket Noel has. I also wonder about the biceps measurement you took - that area was probably badly stretched from padding and abrasion, as you say. The measurement was larger than I could include in a sleeve and not need a larger arm hole in the body. Stretching is the perfect explanation of that.
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Post by Bogie1943 »

I am very pleased with the jacket, the stitching flubs I can live with, and as long as the jacket doesn't fall apart in the next two week then we have no worries. :wink: I highly doubt it would do such a thing.

I did a little reenactment of the raven cuff shot: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/ ... enshot.jpg
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Post by Puppetboy »

Bogie, that's great! I put your pic in photoshop on top of the original pic and it lined up almost identically! I'd say that your jacket is a little looser on you overall than Ford's, but it looks good on you.

_, I did indeed get your message and we are working on it now. I'm looking for enough leather to cover you. :lol:

By the way, Josh, you got your jacket a little out of sequence because we happened to make it accidentally - we made it for someone else, but we discovered it was the wrong size so we never sent it. Just in case anyone is wondering...
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Post by Bogie1943 »

I have to admit I took the original into photoshop and did a quick doctoring on mine. I didn't spent too much time on the lighting and the photoshop work but they match up pretty good. :wink: I think the jacket will look smaller on me once the leather breaks in and settles. I had a feeling thats what happened, it was good to get the jacket a week or two early indeed.
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Post by Indiana Max »

Bogie :shock: :shock: :clap: :clap: Great job with the photo, I was totally shocked :lol:
You look like Harrison :wink:
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Post by PLATON »

I just want to ask why Todd's jacket has gusset since I believe evryone agrees that the hero jacket didn't have gussets.

I will remind you Peter's post from 2003
Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 10:54 am Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I can confirm that the gussets in the Indy films were all of two piece contruction, I can alsso confirm that some of the jackets had gussets and some did not which is why it confuses and causes controversy.
One must remmber that the jacket seen in the films was not one jacket but several. It was only partway through the first film that we were asked to provide extra jackets with gussets for the fight sceenes but as a film is shot out of sequence jackets with and without gussets keep reappearing.
All the stunt mens jackets had gussets whilst most of Harrison Fords did not. Without doubt when making the film the continuety dept never envisaged that 20+ years later they would be so well scrutinised. Especially H.F's arm pits
Hope that helps a little
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Post by Chewing Wax »

You believe everyone agrees? What are you talking about? Even the quote from Wested from 2003 doesn't agree. He says some did and some didn't.
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Post by PLATON »

The above statement makes it clear that there were jackets made for Harrison Ford that didn't have gussets. So if a vendor sells a jacket without gussets nobody can complain that it's not screen accurate.

The genral notion is that the jackets worn by HF didn't have gussets and that those with gussets were used by stuntmen.

There isn't any CLEAR screen cap showing gussets so we can assume that the above is true. (If you have any show it now). This is the point where we can all agree.

Now, if a vendor wants to include gussets, have to be of a two piece construction, otherwise it's not accurate.

And I understand Todd's has one piece.

Clear?
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Post by Mountaineer Lasher »

PLATON wrote:The above statement makes it clear that there were jackets made for Harrison Ford that didn't have gussets. So if a vendor sells a jacket without gussets nobody can complain that it's not screen accurate.

The genral notion is that the jackets worn by HF didn't have gussets and that those with gussets were used by stuntmen.

There isn't any CLEAR screen cap showing gussets so we can assume that the above is true. (If you have any show it now). This is the point where we can all agree.

Now, if a vendor wants to include gussets, have to be of a two piece construction, otherwise it's not accurate.

And I understand Todd's has one piece.

Clear?
Jacket w/o Gussets = Screen Accurate
Jacket w/ 2-piece Gussets = Screen Accurate
Jacket w/ 1-piece Gussets = Non-Screen Accurate

Eurika! I understand this statement! :idea:

At least it's nice we have 2 options for jackets that are both screen accurate...

P.S. What's a gusset? :oops:
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Post by PLATON »

It's an extra piece of leather on the sleeve below the armpit that allows to move more arms more freely.
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Post by djd »

Now I'm confused. 'On the sleeve'- below the arm pit. If it's below the arm pit isn't it part of the body of the jacket rather than the sleeve? :?:
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Post by PLATON »

Thanks for the info and I will check again the stars pic.

However, your story below can't be true.
This brings to mind a story. Did you know that military experts have speculated that the war in the Pacific could have been shortened by 2 years? That's right. This is because the war room in the White House used a flat 2-dimensional map of the Pacific. Strategists never questioned that the only way to take the Pacific was to go "straight" across... Truth be told, the world is in fact round and the shortest route across the Pacific to the Japanese homeland and severing its communication and supply lines would have been through the North Pacific - out of Seattle and across the Aleutian chain...
Everybody uses a "flat 2-dimensional map". It's called a "chart". Mecrator in the 17th century projected the globe into 2 dimensional maps taking into account that the Earth is round of course. Result of that projection is that polar areas/distances appear larger than what they actually are. See the size Greenland on the world map for example. In reality it's much smaller

The shortest route that you are referring to is called "great circle sailing" and it will save you about 200 n. miles for every 8000 n miles. 200 nm equals to less than 1 day sailing so, it's not really a big deal.

These facts were known in the 1940s so the source of that story isn't quite reliable.
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Post by PLATON »

Image

Here's the "stars" pic. I can't really say I see the gussets.

Anyone can provide pointers?
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Post by coronado3 »

Where is the buckle on his bag strap? Was he wearing it backwards?

C3
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Post by Chewing Wax »

PLATON wrote:The above statement makes it clear that there were jackets made for Harrison Ford that didn't have gussets. So if a vendor sells a jacket without gussets nobody can complain that it's not screen accurate.

The genral notion is that the jackets worn by HF didn't have gussets and that those with gussets were used by stuntmen.

There isn't any CLEAR screen cap showing gussets so we can assume that the above is true. (If you have any show it now). This is the point where we can all agree.

Now, if a vendor wants to include gussets, have to be of a two piece construction, otherwise it's not accurate.

And I understand Todd's has one piece.

Clear?
Not clear. I can't even be bothered to point out the bountiful flaws in your logic.
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Post by djd »

Image
Isn't that a gusset? Or am I looking at the wrong bit?
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Post by Chewing Wax »

You can't see the gusset from that picture. It's a tiny lip-shaped patch under the arm. Where you'd put deoderant. Maybe you're confusing the gusset with the back yoke or whatever?

Image
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Post by Chewing Wax »

Uh oh. I used Paint to draw in the little red gusset outline. I guess that's not good either.
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Post by djd »

Thanks for the explanation chaps
PLATON
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Post by PLATON »

I like it that you are thorough. I like history too. Let's be thorough then so everything to be clear.

Before I start I have to let you know that I am a graduate of the Merchant Marine Academy of Hydra, Greece, an educational institute established in the year 1749. As such I have studied navigation and hold a license of 2nd Officer and I am entitled to be Master of vessels up to 500 tons GT or about 1,500 tons deadweight. I have also served in the Hellenic War Navy as an Ensign and among other things as Navigation officer of a US built MSC Class Minesweeper.

Now, in that war room, General Marshall (and every other General in the world) as well as the President of US would have every right to think that a straight line on the map is the shortest route, which is not, (for the simple reason that they didn't know navigation and spherical trigonometry because they weren't taught that). But Fleet Admiral Ernest Joseph King could only have laughed when they suggested that.

There is absolutely no chance that King didn't know that. (I have visited the US Naval Academy in Annapolis and believe me it's not a place that that they let you go if you don't know these things). And King was a Fleet admiral, which means that he must have served as a Commander of vessels of at least the size of a Destroyer, at least twice, for at least 2 years each time, before he could become an Admiral.

And if he had crossed the Atlantic or Pacific he would have known these things because at the time there weren't any modern devices such as LORAN-C, OMEGA, Satellite, GPS that give you the ship's position. Those guys didn' even have RADAR back then.

So the only way to navigate was the use of celestial navigation (with the stars) which requires knowledge of spherical trigonometry and a sextant.

So please don't think that King didn't know these things and that he thought they would shorten the war by 2 years.

I must say however, that quite often the "straight line" is used because ships rather not cross the oceans during winter by great circle sailing as they want to avoid going North to escape adverse weather. Similarly during spring they also tend to avoid that in order to escape icebergs.

Of course, this isn't the place for this discussion, which we can continue elsewhere, if you are interested in the subject, but I had to reply because your statemnts imply that I am an ignorant, which I am not.
Last edited by PLATON on Thu May 24, 2007 3:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by PLATON »

You believe everyone agrees? What are you talking about? Even the quote from Wested from 2003 doesn't agree. He says some did and some didn't.
Not clear. I can't even be bothered to point out the bountiful flaws in your logic.

"What have I ever done to make you treat me so disrespectfully?"

Let me tell you about gussets. I don't like them. But that's irrelevant. When I said that "everyone agrees" that the hero jacket didn't have them, that's not my opinion. I haven't made my opinion known yet. I didn't say yet whether I believe or not that HF jacket had gussets. In fact, I will not say, and I don't care to say it.

And it doesn't matter if Peter made jackets with and without gussets for Ford, because Ford could have worn only those without gussets or only those with gussets, or both.

If you READ old posts you will see that the majority of the people here thought that the hero jacket didn't have gussets. That's what I meant, it's not my opinion, it's what people said.

And my logic is fine.
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Post by PLATON »

_, thanks for your good comments.
I just want to say that I don't mean any arrogance myself.

Yes, sometimes what I say sounds like I take some things for fact. As I explained previously that is because maybe I don't command the language so well so to always pick the right words. That often leads to misunderstandings. Sorry about that.

Regarding the stars pic and the gussets, I must say that I don't see the stitching but I notice some difference in the color in that area. Could you please provide a high quality scan of that photo sometime? I will appreciate.

As for our disagreements sometimes, I never looked at it in a bad way. I seek your friendship and to learn from each other.

You are of course very welcome to correct me everytime you feel something I say is not right.

Let's get back to the topic. I wonder what is Todd opinion on the gussets.
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Post by binkmeisterRick »

Do I remember correctly that when Indy is repelling into the Well of Souls that you can see a gusset? I'm of the mind that there were jackets with and without gussets, whether used by Ford, the stuntmen, or both. After all, didn't they go through several jackets alone while filming the truck dragging scene?
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