WW I S&W 1917

Magnum Jones · Post by **Magnum Jones** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 9:47 pm

This is a nice find. Dosen't look like it sold.
http://www.gundeals.co.uk/Rare-deactiva ... iondetails

Magnum Jones · Post by **Magnum Jones** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 9:50 pm

Looks like it has been relisted,
http://www.gundeals.co.uk/210237,id,auctiondetails

JEEP · Post by **JEEP** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 4:09 am

Deactivating a historical weapon like that should be a crime

/Jakob

Marc · Post by **Marc** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 3:38 pm

Out of curiousity... HOW is such a gun de-activated? - Is barrel welded or is it just the "thing in the middle that holds the ammo" or what exactly is done to it to de-activate it?

Thanks,

Marc

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 3:48 pm

Most I've seen have had the barrel filled with lead. That 'thing in the center' is called the cylinder.

Regards! Michaelson

montana · Post by **montana** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 3:58 pm

JEEP wrote:Deactivating a historical weapon like that should be a crime

/Jakob

Couldn't agree more Jakob. That, and to make hot-rods out of antique cars

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 4:01 pm

montana wrote: That, and to make hot-rods out of antique cars

Well, I personally don't agree with that one, montana....but then, that's just me....

Regards! Michaelson

Marc · Post by **Marc** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 5:08 pm

Thanks for the info Mark! Now, lead melts at very low temperatures, in fact it's so soft at room temperature, that I don't see any problems in "accidentially" scrapping it out of the barrel again... or am I mistaken?

Regards,

Marc

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 5:13 pm

True, very true, but depending on the metal used, it's pretty certain that whatever is melted and poured into the opening will totally destroy the interior of the barrel, making it completely useless.

In many cases they also weld the cylinder closed so parts can't be stripped out to make a working gun. All in all, they really bugger up a perfect good weapon. :evil:

Regards! Michaelson

IndyParise · Post by **IndyParise** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 5:58 pm

Michaelson wrote:
montana wrote: That, and to make hot-rods out of antique cars
Well, I personally don't agree with that one, montana....but then, that's just me....

Regards! Michaelson

I agree but only if the body is so rusted out, deteriorated, etc. that it is beyond restoration or if it is something so common (ie: camaros and mustangs) that making it into a hotrod ends up being a better choice than restoring it.

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 6:10 pm

Well, of course! Taking a perfectly good antique and turning it into a rod makes no good sense...but there are so MANY specific models out there that were made in the hundreds of thousands, it also makes no good sense to try and invest monies in saving them all.

I'm speaking from first hand experience, by the way.

Regards! Michaelson

IndyParise · Post by **IndyParise** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 7:20 pm

Michaelson wrote: I'm speaking from first hand experience, by the way.

Regards! Michaelson

As am I, my Dad (as stated previously) owns 10 classic (or "muscle" if you prefer) cars, including, a newer aquisition, a 1928 (might be '29, don't remember off of the top of my head) Model A Ford, rodded out due to extreme rust in the windshield area and other areas. Currently it has a 327 Corvette motor ('cause a ford motor is good for nothing but an anchor

). The time I spend out in the garage with him in one day adds up to more time than I spend on my homework in a week (and for me, that's alot of time).We also have a camaro with a 454 which isn't a restoration job, rather a mild rod job (slight cosmetic work is about it), otherwise, all of them are original, including a 65 'vette with the original paint still on

sorry, thread derailing over, back on topic.

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:15 pm

We stick with stuff older than 1951.

Regards! Michaelson

Magnum Jones · Post by **Magnum Jones** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:27 pm

Is there a diffrence between deactivated and demilled? I have seen many firearms that have been demilled by cutting the frame and anything else close to it.
If the frame has not been damaged, and you could find parts I don't think it would take much to restore a revolver. I'm not sure what a deactivated firearm has had done to it.

IndyParise · Post by **IndyParise** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 9:15 pm

Michaelson wrote:We stick with stuff older than 1951.

Regards! Michaelson

Eh, we're more into the Muscle Cars, Camaros, Stingray 'Vettes, Oldsmobile Cutlass, Mustangs, you know, american muscle. American Graffiti style.

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:05 pm

Try a '49 merc wideglide if you'e talking American Graffiti. That's an ongoing project.

Regards! Michaelson

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:06 pm

Try a '49 Merc wideglide with a chop top if you'e talking 'American Graffiti'.

That's an ongoing project.

Regards! Michaelson

carebear · Post by **carebear** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:35 pm

Magnum Jones wrote:Is there a diffrence between deactivated and demilled? I have seen many firearms that have been demilled by cutting the frame and anything else close to it.
If the frame has not been damaged, and you could find parts I don't think it would take much to restore a revolver. I'm not sure what a deactivated firearm has had done to it.

Changes by country.

In the case of the US due to the recent stupidity of the '86 import ban and the closing of the registry they now demil, for example, the receivers of full-auto import parts kits, by cutting them in half by arc not saw, to prevent reassembly later.

Demil nowadays kinda implies completely ruining the gun.

Deactivation is intended to leave the firearm visually unchanged but unable to be used as a firearm. The person who did that deactivation cared and left the gun as good as you could ask.

It's just a waste of a classic for no purpose.

IndyParise · Post by **IndyParise** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 6:30 am

Michaelson wrote:Try a '49 Merc wideglide with a chop top if you'e talking 'American Graffiti'. That's an ongoing project.

Regards! Michaelson

Might have to see pics of that when you're done. Meanwhile, we've got trouble on the rod with a carb that's sucking in air. My coclusion, it's a ford, so it's cursed

, but we've gotta fix it anyway.

montana · Post by **montana** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 7:39 am

Actually, when mentioning the hot-rods, I was refering to vintage cars, maybe a little rusty but restorable, not cars beaten-up and rusted out of any hope of restoring. The latter I mentioned I consider ok to hot-rod, but I won't touch it anyhow

There are people who hot-rod perfectly original cars with engines running and everything. Now THAT'S a crime

montana

Indy45 · Post by **Indy45** » Sat Mar 24, 2007 6:50 am

Magnum,

That is a beautiful piece!. I agree deactivation is a crime, although it looks like care was taken with the cylinder blocking to make it appear like real 45acp rounds.

But the PRICE is an OUCHER, the "Buy it Now" is about $900.00 USD!

You can get an excellent grade, fully functional 1917 in the USA for that kind of cash. Try AuctionArms.com with search string "SMITH 1917".

Regards,
Indy45

Indiana G · Post by **Indiana G** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 7:04 pm

a dewat or deactivated war trophy in canada requires that the barrel be plugged (via placing a bar inside or plugging with metal) and the mechanism locked/welded into place (cannot be cocked).

i believe that this procedure also deactivates the ability to swing the cylinder out of the frame as you see on the s&w 1917 and also disables the beautiful top-break feature on the webley mk vi.

very decorative and ideal paper weights i must say

191145 · Post by **191145** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:53 pm

Lead or soft solder won't do it. It's too easy to melt out and would have no effect on the ordnance steel in the gun. The barrel would have to be welded shut, usually at the chamber end - otherwise, you could just cut the tip of the barrel off and have a shooter once you fixed the action. Even then, it's technically feasible to cut out the weldment, but not economically feasible. You can get a working 1917 for $500. I don't want to spend that kind of money on a historic piece and then cut the barrel down to 4", so I'm kind of looking for a S&W Model 10, 4" barrel in .38 Special. To make an Indy holster for it, I'll just take an old Victory holster and cut the nose down. Another revolver that has the look is a Russian Nagant 7.62. You can get these for $90, making the barrel job economically possible. These come with a holster that looks pretty good too. Ammo for these (7.62x38) is hard to find and expensive. I wouldn't have any qualms at all in welding one of these up just to have a dummy Indy-style revolver.

Magnum Jones · Post by **Magnum Jones** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:19 pm

191145 wrote:Lead or soft solder won't do it. It's too easy to melt out and would have no effect on the ordnance steel in the gun. The barrel would have to be welded shut, usually at the chamber end - otherwise, you could just cut the tip of the barrel off and have a shooter once you fixed the action. Even then, it's technically feasible to cut out the weldment, but not economically feasible. You can get a working 1917 for $500. I don't want to spend that kind of money on a historic piece and then cut the barrel down to 4", so I'm kind of looking for a S&W Model 10, 4" barrel in .38 Special. To make an Indy holster for it, I'll just take an old Victory holster and cut the nose down. Another revolver that has the look is a Russian Nagant 7.62. You can get these for $90, making the barrel job economically possible. These come with a holster that looks pretty good too. Ammo for these (7.62x38) is hard to find and expensive. I wouldn't have any qualms at all in welding one of these up just to have a dummy Indy-style revolver.

I read an article not to long ago saying Wolf plans to offer 7.62x38 in full loads, no whimpy 1/2 target loads buy fall '07. Trying to find the article, I have so many magazines I can't remember what one it was in.

djd · Post by **djd** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 11:38 am

A deactivated handgun is the only type you can legally own in the UK and they can sell them for as much or more than a working one. There have been so many problems over the years with deactivations be re-activated that the deactivation process here is now very harsh. I guess it's not a 'waste' if it's the only way you can collect them...

Indiana Danny · Post by **Indiana Danny** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:34 pm

heres one for 200$
http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w5059252

WW I S&W 1917

WW I S&W 1917

Price on Deact 1917