You guys and your Wested discussions - It's finally here!

[kalkamel]

Yeah... I'm talking about all you guys who post pics showing off your new Westeds! You're all driving me insane!! Do you know that I haven't been able to sleep for the past coupla nights thinking of terms like "correct sliders", "x-box stitchings", "under arm gussets" etc... terms which I wasn't familiar with before I joined COW?? I've had it!!! As Picard put it, "the line must be drawn HERE!!"

So, thanks to you guys , I've made up my mind. I want one too!! I have a substitute lambskin jacket which to an untrained eye might look like an Indy jacket, but to you fanatics would not pass the test... for one, it's a tad too long. So now I'm going to take the leap (from the lion's head) and be one of the Wested owners.

Just a coupla questions so that I'm clear about what I'm gonna order. (1) I noticed on Wested's site, there are Regular and Long sizes. What's the difference? (2) I've got a 40" chest and a 40" waist (I'm a bit plump... nobody's perfect), what size do you think I should ask for, if say, I was gonna get an authentic lamb Raiders? Of course, i would take measurements as per Wested's requirements, but I just wanted to pick your brains on this... especially those who have 4 to 5 Wested's in their closets (you know who you are ).

Thanks for the help.

Regards,
Kal

[agent5]

I'd think Peter and Co. can answer the basic questions, but I'd imagine if you're pretty tall to go for a long and if you have a bit of a stomach then I'd ask for the extra inch in the front to level the jacket off. If you have more than just a large tummy then you may think about ordering a size up and in the standard cut (non-80's fit).

My weight changes a bit and I have a sized up jacket I can wear when I've gained some weight and when I shed it off.

My 2 cents.

[Farnham54]

Hey Kalkamel,

Someone more seasons can confirm this, but basically the difference between a Regular and Long is the length--So, for example, a 6'1 guy with long arms and a 40 inch chest would get the Long size, whereas someone who is 5'0 with proportionate arms and a 40 inch chest would fit into a Regular size.

The best way to get your size is to measure your chest (as you have, it would seem, at 40 inches). Then, to compensate for your travelling supplies (Its all to easy to starve to death on an adventure. You are not plump, you are prepared) just mention that to Peter in the E-mail.

Remember, the jacket is custom made to you, so it's not really a matter of ordering the right "size"--Include all the measurements from Wested's site, as well as the cut you'd like (80s or regular, or if you say want to wear a sweater or plan on increasing your travelling supplies). Mention that to the fine folks at Wested and their years of tailoring experience will do the rest.

Cheers
Craig

[kalkamel]

I'll keep that in mind, Agent 5... thanks! Somehow I had a feeling you'd be the first one to chime in .

Craig, I'm 5'10", so I guess I should go for tall?

[Mr. Das]

you're borderline. I'm the same height and I got a R. But the dress shirts I buy are L

[Farnham54]

It depends on your arm length in relation to your body.

If you have any suits around, or perhaps even have a suit store kicking in your neighborhood, you can take a gander at that--Most suits use Long and Regular measurements as well.

To get the best fit, measure your arms and your back to see where you want the jacket to drape, then ask peter about it. The sleeves will be custom made to the length you want.

Cheers
Craig

[PLATON]

I am thinking to order a Wested with arm length twice the normal so that they can be tied behind my back. (You know like those shirts for crazy people).

I am getting crazy. Reading distressing tutorials at home and my girlfriend thinks I lost it.

[Skippy]

Get measured by someone else for thw following:

Shoulder to first knuckle of your thumb (the one joining it to the rest of your hand!) This will give you the right length of sleeve so when you put your arms forward or up, the jacket sleeves will only ride up to your wrist & not half way up your forarm.

Wearing a dress shirt with your Indy trousers, from the bottom of the collar stand seam to the middle of your rear pockets. If you don't have trousers, wearing jeans measure to the top of the rear pockets. This will give you a back length.

Chest is up to you. Personally I can fit a 40" chest Wested, but the shoulder seam is a little tight for my liking & I can't fit any warmth layers underneath (remember these jackets are not too great at keeping you warm in really cold weather), so I'm better off with a 42".

As for the extra 1" for ride up, I have quite a belly, but didn't ask for the extra inch in front & the jacket fits fine. Up to you.

BTW, I know what you mean about knowing things you didn't even think of before. I been catching myself looking at peoples jacket as they walked past & thinking "Lambskin"..."Goatskin"...

[kalkamel]

BTW, I know what you mean about knowing things you didn't even think of before. I been catching myself looking at peoples jacket as they walked past & thinking "Lambskin"..."Goatskin"...

Me too!!

[Indiana Aidil]

So kalkamel, have you decide what size you're going to get for your Wested?

Craig, I'm 5'10", so I guess I should go for tall?

I'm also 5'10" and I get a regular size for my Raiders jacket. The length of the jacket is just perfect.

Chest is up to you. Personally I can fit a 40" chest Wested, but the shoulder seam is a little tight for my liking & I can't fit any warmth layers underneath (remember these jackets are not too great at keeping you warm in really cold weather), so I'm better off with a 42".

For me, 40" chest or maybe even 38" chest would fit me. But I order 42" chest since I want to fit some warmth layers underneath. But normally I just wear a t-shirt with the jacket but yet it still doesn't look baggy. In my opinion, you should get a 40" chest since there is no need to wear a couple of layers underneath the jacket in our country! . But remember to add extra sleeve length.

Regards,
Aidil

[kalkamel]

If everything works out fine, I'll be placing my order with Wested before the end of the week. I've been corresponding via e-mail with Gemma for the past week trying to ascertain what would be the best fit for me. I've remeasured myself with the help of seamstress and found that my chest size is actually 41.5", not 40", so I think I'll go for a 44R, as I do intend to use it with some sweaters (when I get to a cooler climate). 42 would be a bit tight. The jacket I'm selling in the Classified section is a 46 and its a bit too loose for my liking.

[Kt Templar]

If your chest is a 41.5 get a 42. Westeds have 4 inches of breathing room. A 44 will actually give you 48 inches. You don't need to order up, just get the chest size you normally get a "well fitting suit jacket" in.

SIZING HINTS and TIPS
As each Jacket is custom-made, I require the following measurements.

Height: Your height in inches or metric.

Chest: Measuring under the arms round the chest (loose fit). Or alternatively, the size of jacket that fits well, i.e. 42 Regular.

Sleeve: Measuring the sleeve length from the shoulder to the cuff or, even better, from the sleeve of a jacket that fits you.

Note: USA sizes in men's are the same as UK. Continental sizes can be converted without problem.

In addition I suggest to include your waist size and shirt collar size so they can judge your body shape.

(Note. My chest measurement is 41, I actually have a "38" sized jacket. zipped up it's "military fit" on the chest!)

This is an LC jacket, from the front in this shot it looks a little long but it's because the trousers are belted too high! In real life it's fine:

http://public.fotki.com/KtTemplar/weste ... front.html

Considering where you are I suspect you won't need to layer much clothing under it and suggest you don't allow too much extra room. These look better closer fitted.

[kalkamel]

Thanks for the tip KT.

[independent]

Get measured by someone else for thw following:

Shoulder to first knuckle of your thumb (the one joining it to the rest of your hand!) This will give you the right length of sleeve so when you put your arms forward or up, the jacket sleeves will only ride up to your wrist & not half way up your forarm.

This is a pretty good tip. I'm thinking there are probably a few people who will measure one of their blazer or suit coat jacket sleeves. Bad idea, especially if you like to show cuff.

While I personally think a sleeve length to the first knuckle of the thumb would be a little bit too long, don't know about screen accuracy, I'm also thinking it's probably good to err on the side of having them a little long, which can probably be altered, rather than have a 300 dollar leather jacket with short sleeves. Hey, but short sleeves and pants are "in" these days!

[Bufflehead Jones]

Milesfides,

What Skippy is telling you about measuring the sleeve length is absolutely correct. With this jacket, if you don't follow that advice, the sleeves will be too short. With the sleeves measured this way, when you wear the jacket, the sleeves will feel just perfect, and it will look screen accurate to boot. Trust me!

I think the barrel sleeves have something to do with the way this jacket's sleeves need to be this way. With a jacket with elastic around the cuff of the sleeves, you certainly would not want them this long. With this jacket, it is perfect.

[Kt Templar]

Kal,

The answer to your question is yes and no.

When I put it to Peter he said. "I don't know where you got that from, when I measure you for a jacket I measure from the shoulder seam to the wristbone and then add an inch."

The sleeves do ride up a little but my experience is this: when I am wearing long sleeves under it it fits perfectly (even when driving), when wearing short sleeves it is a little long. I bought an off the peg and it was to the first knuckle. It is also satin lined which might make a difference too.

On the next jacket I get I will go with his measurement. It might look shorter when driving, but so did Fords. YMMV.

[independent]

Templar, that's what I was thinking.

The correct length, imo, should be somewhere between the wrist bone and the first knuckle of the thumb. This should vary a bit depending on height, size of hands, other proportions. A good tailor can take these factors into consideration. It is just my opinion that a jacket length that comes to the first knuckle is just a tad bit too long. Peter's comment you quoted sounds pretty much right on, if the shoulders are accurately measured.

Speaking of the shoulder, the width affects the overall sleeve measurement. If one adds to his shoulder measurements for more room and mobility, this would also increase the length of the sleeves, perhaps longer than what one would expect.

Regarding screen accuracy, I think the actual sleeve length would vary from film to film, maybe even scene to scene! It's tough to tell though, Indy is either wearing gloves, or has his arms bent, or in his pockets in most of the screenshots here. Most of the time, his jacket is opened, causing his sleeves to fall a little more than what they would when zipped. His sleeves also look wrinkled and wavy - further obscuring the length!

[kalkamel]

Woohoo!! Wested order placed!!

[Bufflehead Jones]

His sleeves also look wrinkled and wavy - further obscuring the length!

Yep, they all do that. And when they do, if your sleeves are the length of a regular jacket, they will look like High Waters for your arms.

Look at the sleeve length in my avatar. Do those sleeves look too long? When the jacket was new, the sleeves came to the first joint on my thumb. If I put that jacket on right now with my arms down at my side, the sleeve lenght is perfect.

I hate a jacket with sleeves that are too short. Reach up for something and it will ride up to your elbows. Especially with these jackets as they have barrel sleeves. There is no elastic at the end of the sleeve to hold the jacket cuff at your wrist.

[Indiana Aidil]

Woohoo!! Wested order placed!!

Congratulation kalkamel. What jacket size did you ordered and extra spec that you asked for?

[kalkamel]

Based on the advice I got here, I asked for a 42R. I didn't really give Peter a "laundry list", just asked for tapered sleeves, x-b-x stitching, elastic pleats, underarm gusset and smaller Raiders pockets. 20 sleepless nights ahead!

[Indiana Aidil]

Based on the advice I got here, I asked for a 42R. I didn't really give Peter a "laundry list", just asked for tapered sleeves, x-b-x stitching, elastic pleats, underarm gusset and smaller Raiders pockets. 20 sleepless nights ahead!

Did you asked for extra sleeve?

[kalkamel]

Sure did!

[Kt Templar]

Sure did!

Zaphod? That's where you've been hiding! And the extra collar for the second head?

[kalkamel]

The extra collar I got... the extra sleeve for my third arm, I forgot... geez! HUMMA KAVULA!

[Skippy]

Just another quick comment on the sleeve measurements...

I got measured by Peter himself at the Wested workshop. He was the one measuring from my shoulder to my first thumb knuckle.

Now whilst that does get you the correct length, bear in mind that lambskin & goatskin will short a bit as the leather wrinkles set in. You could loose as much as 1" on a lambskin jacket & certainly I have lost 0.5" on the arms of my goatskin.

I measure 24" for sleeves, by my next Wested will be a 24.5".

[kalkamel]

Woohoo! Just got email notification from Parcelforce! My Wested Raiders Authentic Lamb is on the way to me! Can't wait! Oboyoboyoboyoboy!

[kalkamel]

My Wested has arrived! Here are some quick pics I took:



















As you can see the jacket's a bit crumpled, no thanks to Malaysian Customs, who opened the package and didn't quite put it back in the same neat manner Wested must have packed it. I'm just glad it finally arrived.

I didn't ask for too many mods, just pleat elastic, x-box stitching and smaller Raiders pockets. I was afraid of the fit and the look of a short jacket on me but I must say i am extremely pleased! Thanks to all who gave me tips of placing this order. Your inputs were extremely useful for me in getting the perfect fit and look for my first Wested! You guys are truly awesome!

[J_Weaver]

Nice looking jacket my friend! So those are the Raiders size pockets. I though something looked different abotu them!

[Bufflehead Jones]

Congratulations, Kalkamel. It looks great. Just think of it as customs was trying to help you distress your jacket. Yeah, I am sure customs put that jacket in there. When I received my Wested, it was packaged so carefully, that it didn't have a single crease or wrinkle in it.

[kalkamel]

The total for the jacket (excluding shipping) was £155 taking into account the mods I requested, namely elastic pleats, smaller Raiders' pockets, 1 under-arm gusset and x-box stitching on the side straps. I was afraid the handwarmers would be smaller due to the smaller pockets but to be honest, they're just perfect fit for my hands! Overall, this is a fantastic jacket! The certificate adds class to it. It will find its place among my law degree and certs in my office! Thanks Peter and Wested!

Now that the wait for the jacket is over, the wait for the AB is on! Soon, I hope, Steve? After that, I'll be sending Adam an email about his IOAB, and after that, who knows? Magnoli's boots? When will it end??

[Lao Feng]

Nicely Done! That's a "keeper."

Did you ask to get the back yoke seam one inch higher than the sleeve seams?...or are my eyes playing games?

For the rest of the crew...Is the Higher Yoke Seam-thing now standard?

Cheers-- Lao Feng

[Erri]

I didn't know Malaysians root for Italy

Compliments for the very nice jacket! Those pockets are fantastic, I wish the whole story of these small pockets came up earlier than I bought my wested jacket!
Give us some more pictures as soon as you go into some Adventure!

[kalkamel]

Hahaha! This Malaysian does! Too bad they drew with the US the other day... let's hope they make it to the second round! I'm also rooting for England but they way they're playing now, I'm not putting too much hope in them.

Lao Feng, I didn't ask for the higher yoke-seam. I guess its standard now.

[Dr. Jones Jr.]

I think the Higher Yoke seam is standard for the "80s" fit, if thats how you got it. Im not sure what you got kalkamel.
-Chris

[J_Weaver]

I think the Higher Yoke seam is standard for the "80s" fit, if thats how you got it. Im not sure what you got kalkamel.
-Chris

Yup, Peter stated not to long ago that the yoke is move up 1" with the 80's cut. However, the 80's cut yoke still isn't as small as the original Raiders yoke.

[Lao Feng]

Thanks, all, for the input on yoke seam. I take it, then, that on the Non-80s standard jacket the yoke seam and sleeve seams are on the same plane?

[J_Weaver]

That is correct.

[Wrightknife]

Great Jacket! I guarantee you will be pleased with it. Don't baby it take it out and enjoy it.

Good luck,