Ordering a Wested- need advice.

[new_jacket]

OK, so this is my first post (it's a long one), and I probably found my way here a little differently than most of you. I need a new leather jacket (I got my last in high school and I'm in my late 20's now). I wanted something that looked similar to an A-2 flight jacket without the knit cuffs and waistband and remembered that the jacket Indiana Jones wore seemed right. A little internet research led me to Wested and looking for comments on Wested led me to here.

I've read a lot of posts while waiting for my account activation and have decided on a few things: I want goatskin in dark brown (aiming for something similar to the "seal brown" you see in a lot of A-2s) with the rectangular sliders, cotton body w/satin sleeves. I still have a couple questions that hopefully you can answer.

Gussets: I know there are some for and some against these. I have tried on jackets that fit like suit coats i.e. anything other than pretty much arms at your sides start tugging the buttons and just generally feels uncomfortable. I have also worn jackets where the arms were gigantic bags that allowed free range of movement but looked horrible. What I'm looking for is the ability to raise my arms to about shoulder level, parallel to the ground (like the Da Vinci drawing) with little to no ride up and "tugging feeling" from the body of the coat. Does anyone own both who would be willing to take a picture to display the difference in fit? Two piece or one? I assume this is just a style decision, and the two piece folds up to hide itself when your arms are down a little better.

Sizing: I have a suit coat with just the right arm length, where on the arm do I measure it? The longest point, the seam on the back, the seam on the inside? Should I provide extra measurements like neck size, neck to belly button? I wear my pants low, riding the hip bone, should I go for the ToD style for a better fit? I am pretty much a 40R off the rack guy- my suit coats never need tailoring; it's as if 40R was made to fit me. The fit I'm looking for is loose enough to wear a sweatshirt, light fleece or thin sweater underneath the jacket, should I go a size bigger, or note this in the order instructions?

Extras: I'm not shooting for a screen accurate jacket, just one that fits great and looks good. Are the any extras for functionality that you would recommend? I've never needed a zipper on my internal jacket pockets, and I think one inside pocket is fine, but is there anything else I might have overlooked that you have requested and found invaluable?

Thanks again for your time. This has been an invaluable resource for getting information on the Wested jacket, and being able to hear your personal experiences with the product has been very helpful. I'm a little nervous about getting a custom fit jacket mail order, but hopefully you can help me out.

[Kt Templar]

Hi, welcome to COW, hate to see a guy pop in here and have so many views without a single response.

You are asking a lot of, 'mmmm, maybe' type questions:

On the gussets one here's a pic of my jacket in kinda arms raised mode

http://public.fotki.com/KtTemplar/weste ... nting.html

The jacket does move up, any jacket will, but the softness of the lamb and probaby goat too means it stretches with you.

Can't help with measuring or sizing I'm afraid I got mine in the shop. It just fit's.

I suggest getting front, back and side photos of yourself taken, measure as you interpret the instructions and mark on the photo where you have measured from. I think this may help Wested to see your body shape.

Good luck, you have a great jacket in your future!

[Bjones]

Welcome aboard!

I don't think there is anyone here who won't be able to help you in some capacity. Let me try....

Gussets: I didn't get them on mine, I spoke to Gerry and I believe Peter about this, and neither one outright recommended them. Some folks here rave about them, others have tried both and opted to favor no gussets-it really is a matter of opinion. The extra material in the armpit IMHO would bother me. If you get the arm measurement right, I don't think you will need them based on what you are looking for with raising your arms. With mine, when I raise my arm to shoulder level, the sleeve rides up very little (1/2" maybe). Its the first jacket I have ever owned that has had this quality. when I compared to my other jackets, the Wested's arm pit hole is much higher, so when you raise your arm, it doesn't pull the bottom of the jacket so much. And the Wetsed's action pleats provide a little slack during the movement. The front of the coat will ride up somewhat, but its not enough to bother me.

Measure the arm from the top of the shoulder seam (where the arm meets the shoulder) to the edge of the cuff - straight down the arm. For length, it sounds like you might want the TOD for sure. If your pants hang low, you may even want to get a long. The TOD should rest right on the hip according to Wested. I would definately let them know if you want extra room. If you are slim you may want to just tell them to cut a bit extra room into the 40, but some people really like the next size up. I got my actual size and asked for a bit more room (46L), and I can fit a fleece vest underneath. Anything thicker than that and would get constrictive though. Go get measured by a tailor if you can and get as many measurememnts as you can-shirt sleeve length, neck, back length, shoulder width or over-arm measuremnt. The more info you give them the better.

As far as extras go, you might want to request X-box stitching on the side pulls, everyone pretty much gets this done. Extra reinforcement.

Being nervous is understandable, but it should go fine. I would suggest calling wested and talking with them when you place your order if you can.

Good Luck!

[GunstarBlue]

When you give the sleeve length make sure to add an inch or two to the actual length you want, as the sleeves will wrinkle up and shorten at least an inch after a few weeks of wear. When I ordered my first jacket I made the mistake of putting the actual length I wanted and ended up with sleeves that were an inch and a half too short when the sleeves finally settled into their wrinkled state.

I've owned both lamb and horsehide, and the sleeve ride up seems to be consistent with both types of leather.

[new_jacket]

Kt Templar it looks like you do not have gussets on the jacket in the photo, is this correct? I can see from the picture how the armpit hole is higher as Bjones was saying, and why that gives you more freedom of movement. I think I will probably pass on the gussets- it looks like they wouldn't give much more range of motion than is already there.

Great idea about sending pictures showing where I took my measurements. Sounds like the next best thing to being there in person. I have some measurements from a tailor, just not the arm length. I'll have a friend take that and send them the lot- you're right; the more info I give them the better.

I'll ask for a roomy 40R, I'm pretty slim, so I won't jump up a whole size. X-box stitching sounds like a good idea, and thanks for the tip on the arm length Gunstarblue; I'll add an inch.

Thanks again for your help; this is just the kind of info I was hoping to get.

[Kt Templar]

That one has single piece gussets. In the end i think it's down to personal taste. Do you like the way they look or not. You don't 'feel' them, as you shouldn't really.

BTW you can just see them in pics 1 and 3.

[new_jacket]

Kt Templar: Silly me, I just saw the one picture and didn't realize it was an album.

Yes, I can clearly make it out in picture three. I agree that it's probably just a matter of taste on this jacket. On the A-2s I have worn that had gussets the difference in both appearance and mobility was quite noticeable, but on the Wested it seems to be a small difference.

[Pitfall Harry]

When you give the sleeve length make sure to add an inch or two to the actual length you want, as the sleeves will wrinkle up and shorten at least an inch after a few weeks of wear. When I ordered my first jacket I made the mistake of putting the actual length I wanted and ended up with sleeves that were an inch and a half too short when the sleeves finally settled into their wrinkled state.

I've owned both lamb and horsehide, and the sleeve ride up seems to be consistent with both types of leather.

I've never had that happen to any of my leather jackets. Maybe this is just a thing with the lamb and horsehide leather.

I would be interested to hear if this has occured to anyones goatskin jackets.


Pitfall

[Pitfall Harry]

I've been meaning to ask this and I figured this would be the perfect place to do it.

How do regular sleeves on these jackets compare to getting them tapered? Again, I would think that just ordering the regular Raider's jacket is the screen accurate version and altering it to your own personal taste would deviate from that.....wouldn't it?


Just curious. I'm trying to figure all this stuff out now before I order one because I don't want to go through the hassle of sending it back and I plan on buying only one.


Thanks.


Pitfall

[GunstarBlue]

Pitfall, are any of your other jackets from Wested?

I've never had this happen with any other leather jacket either and was rather surprised when the sleeves started to shorten on my Wested. I'm not sure why they do. Perhaps it has something to do with the absence of insulating material that normally keeps the sleeves from wrinkling up to any noticeable degree. Just a theory....

[Bufflehead Jones]

Measure the sleeve length from your shoulder to the first knuckle of your thumb. This will give you the proper length for a Wested.

[Masterfulks]

I'm a little more curious about sleeve length now...

So we measure to the first knuckle of the thumb.

Does that mean the knuckle closet to the tip of the thumb or the closet to your palm?

Should I add an inch to this measurement? or will they take that into consideration.

[GunstarBlue]

In this case you should measure to the knuckle closest to your palm. This is a pretty good rule of ... thumb, and gives a good result if you don't have any specific sleeve length in mind.

As far as I've experienced, Wested makes the sleeves exactly as long as you tell them and do not add any length or take any extra inches into consideration.

You should give this measurement (tip of shoulder to first thumb knuckle), as this leaves enough room for wrinkling and ride up.

[VP]

Yeah, Wested makes them exactly the length you want. The first knuckle thingamabomb is just due to the ride up. If the sleeves would end up at the wrist they would ride up way too much when you raise your hands.

[Pitfall Harry]

[GunstarBlue"]Pitfall, are any of your other jackets from Wested

No, this will be my first Wested. The only real leather jacket I own is a black one I bought from Wilsons leather store. It was on sale and originally cost about $300. I don't know what leather it's made from but it sure is nice and sturdy.


I ended up measuring the sleeves of that jacket because I like the length of it and when I raise my hands it doesn't ride up to much.

I'm a bit concerned about the stories I'm hearing of popped seems and snaps falling off on the Wested's. It really makes me wonder if I should look elsewhere for a "Indy" jacket.



Pitfall

[Kt Templar]

[GunstarBlue"]Pitfall, are any of your other jackets from Wested

No, this will be my first Wested. The only real leather jacket I own is a black one I bought from Wilsons leather store. It was on sale and originally cost about $300. I don't know what leather it's made from but it sure is nice and sturdy.


I ended up measuring the sleeves of that jacket because I like the length of it and when I raise my hands it doesn't ride up to much.

I'm a bit concerned about the stories I'm hearing of popped seems and snaps falling off on the Wested's. It really makes me wonder if I should look elsewhere for a "Indy" jacket.



Pitfall

Gunstar's measuring advise is correct, the sleeves on a Wested will ride/wrinkle up a little wiyh wear making them shorter. This is supposed to happen! That measurement means you don't end up with sleeves too short after it does!

The bit about snaps and stitches is a small incident, don't focus on it too much. The snaps thing was due to a bad batch of snaps, it has been rectified. If you are worred about the stiches enquire about having that bit reinforced if you order.

This is a jacket from the guy who made the original. I is a fine handmade jacket. At a bargain price, here anything coming close in quality will cost double that. Everything else is a copy.

I know which one I prefer.

[Obiwampa]

Thought it would take longer than this. Technically, isnt anything that Harrison Ford didnt wear a copy? To me, anything not worn in the film is a copy of what was worn in the film.

[Bufflehead Jones]

Thought it would take longer than this. Technically, isnt anything that Harrison Ford didnt wear a copy? To me, anything not worn in the film is a copy of what was worn in the film.

I think he is simply referring to original as a jacket made by the original designer and maker of THE jacket used in the films as opposed to a wannabe Indy jacket made by a company that would take apart a jacket made by Peter and make patterns from it to sell their own jacket as an "Indy" jacket.

[Obiwampa]

Thats is my point. This is all an illusion. Just because something is made by the original guy does not matter. It is STILL just a copy. He has made thousands of COPYS, and they are all COPYS and will always be COPYS. Go to H. Fords house, run up to his closet, find three old worn out jackets, and those will be the ONLY three REAL Indy jackets in the whole world. EVERYTHING else is a copy, regardless of who made it. If it wasnt ripped off of Fords back in between shots, I accept the fact that what I am getting is NOT the real deal. I therefore must take what I can get, and I want the best I can get.

[Masterfulks]

I dont view it as a copy as much as it's another one.

When I think copy in the product world I think knockoff.

[Bufflehead Jones]

I think you are getting original, copy, and screen used all confused. It gives me great satisfaction in knowing that my jacket was made by the same guy that designed and made the jackets for the movies. Is mine screen used? No. But, I do feel that it is an original. I am not interested in anyone else's wannabe jacket for that very reason. I don't care one iota who made it or how it was made or what it is made of, if it is made by anyone other than Peter. That's not what is important to me. You are free to choose what ever makes you happy.

I could have had an "Indy" whip made by any number of excellent whip makers for about half the price of my David Morgan. I spent about twice as much money for the David Morgan because it makes me happy to know that it was made by the same guy that made the whips in the movies. Is my David Morgan a screen used whip? No. But, it is an original David Morgan whip.

I am really sorry that I didn't get one of the "copies" that Peter made for Harrison Ford, but it just didn't work out that way. I guess I waited too long to order.

[Bjones]

Hey just the fact that you can get it tailored just for YOU makes it original. And its as close to the SOURCE as you can get.

[Bufflehead Jones]

Exactly.