Club Obi Wan

I'm currently exploring the bowels of the COW to come up with the perfect configuration for my first Wested Raiders. One thing I'm having difficulty deciding on is the fit of the jacket. What are your opinions on the 80's fitted fit and the current looser fit? Any pics showing the fitted jacket and the looser fit of the current jacket would be really helpful. Thanks.

Do a search on posts made by Indiana Chris, as I recall. He posted several photos of the fitted 80's fit he had Peter make for him. Regards. Michaelson

I've got to say, I'm a 48" chest and I normally wear a 48R jacket.

Anyway, the horsehide I recently got is a 48L and it feels fitted. Maybe the arms could lose a tiny bit of room, but the body is tight/fitted. And this is obviously a modern cut.

People's experiences seem to vary. Others have ordered their size and have room for a sweatshirt underneath.

Thanks Michaelson. I did a quick search and didn't find much, but I'll try again when I have more time.

That has been one of my problems in deciding what mods I do and don't want on the jacket too - it seems like the same jacket varies greatly from person to person. What kind of build do you have Rob? I'm 6'1" and have a slim build. I thought the modern jacket might be looser on me. Thanks for posting.

I'm a stocky build... you can probably tell from the pics in the thread, "My Horsehide Wested Is Here..."

For that reason, yes, I can see that if I was slighter, or had a waist that was more than 4" smaller than my chest, there might be issues.

You know, when I ordered my Wested, I gave all sorts of measurements that aren't necessarily asked for, such as neck and waist. I am sure that these helped paint a picture of what my body is like, which is why the jacket came out so well.

I don't know. The jackets in the movies never looked all that "fitted" to me. Even in Raiders it looks pretty comfy with room to move. I'm not sure where the idea ever came from that it should fit like a suit jacket. The only time it looked fitted was when it was zipped, and any Wested Indy will do that if you have the straps pulled in tight enough. I've had three Wested's and none were what you'd call "baggy". If that's what you want, however, maybe just order one size down and keep your actual sleeve length?

If you order your jacket with underarm gussets, I bet they'll provide for some additional bagginess due to the curved underarm cut (and the gusset itself, obviously).
I imagine the sans gussets-jacket is straight-seamed in the sides... correct?

I've had a jacket with no gussets, a jacket with a single piece gusset and now own a jacket with the 2-piece gusset. Never had any bagginess problem either way, except for my first jacket (no gussets) where I went a size up and regretted it later. The gussets don't add extra material per se, they actually allow the jacket to be a little closer fitting as movement isn't so restricted. However, on my last 2 jackets I've specified an '80's' fit, so that might account for my experiences.

IMO, the Raiders jacket IS close fitting. Take a look at some screen grabs and there isn't a lot of room for play in there I'd say. Couldn't fit a sweater under it, for example. It's not so small that it looks as if Ford needs to stop eating at McDonalds, but it's not roomy either.

I personally think the jacket looks better when fairly closely fitted.

I did order a lamb with single gussets, and did experience some bagginess. The main reason being that I lost about 12 kg/26 lbs. between placing the order and receiving the jacket... (not that I'm complaining, though ). Still, the jacket was a wee bit too big to be all Indy in my view. Yesterday, I threw it in the good ole tumble-dryer (as per instructions in an old jacket thread), let it rock'n'roll for about twenty minutes and got myself a well fitting jacket! It's now half a size smaller and drapes better... the shine is gone, too.

But what happens if you have a Mac-attack and those kg's come back?

The jacket was too big - there was room for more shrinkage... now, the jacket fits. It ain't snug or tight. I would not intentionally shrink a jacket if I wouldn't have the margins figured out...
And regarding them lost kg's... they ain't coming back. In fact, I believe I'll lose a few more.

But do those margins include impromptu mac attacks? Thos kg's might be sneaking around the next McDonalds!!!

Better avoid them McD's alltogether, right, Rob?

No disagreement from me... but sometimes... ohhhhhhh... a Big Mac

Personally, I prefer the cheeseburgers.

I like Big Macs and Big Xtras. They should bring Burger King, KFC, Root Beer and Coke Vanilla to Finland.

Ah, yes... the quiet spread of American influence over foreign cuisine...

bink

Who needs the military. We'll get 'em with the grease! Seriously, for me, this topic is sort of a 'non-topic' for personal discussion, as I'm at the age that though I'm still in the svelt 80's thinking in terms of jacket, I know that reality has to kick in, and I HAVE to decide on what actually fits me and feels good. With that decision made, the 80's fit is absolutely out of the picture. Ok, hand me another cheesburger, if you don't mind. Hold the fries. Regards. Michaelson

We're spreading Democracy, one burger at a time. Anyhow, I also have to prefer a fitted jacket that doesn't squeeze me too tight. I like my clothes fitted, but not TOO fitted to the point I can't breathe!

bink

That's not what the burgers are spreading on ME! Regards. Michaelson

Does anybody happen to know EXACTLY how much smaller the eighties cut is compaired to the regular cut? Is it done purely in inches or a percentage relative to the jacket's size?

I've finally had to accept that I've grown too skinny for my Wested, so it's time for an upgrade. Gotta get it right this time!

-Fiddler

I've grown too skinny for my Wested

Oxymoron? grown too skinny haha

... does anybody have an answer to my question? I e-mailed Wested, but never received a reply.

-Fiddler

... anybody at all?

Does anybody happen to know EXACTLY how much smaller the eighties cut is compaired to the regular cut? Is it done purely in inches or a percentage relative to the jacket's size?

When you use a word like "exactly" the question is difficult to answer. The jackets are hand-made and tend to be slightly different even if you order the same specifications, depending on who makes the jacket, the leather used, etc. I do not mean noticably different to the naked eye, but people are not machines.

Also I think the term "80's fit" is completely dependent on the person wearing the jacket as there are no exact specifications. Maybe an 80's jacket in your size ordered off-the-rack will have similar dimensions as other off-the-rack jackets.

The jacket made for Harrison Ford was made to fit Harrison Ford. What may appear to be a close-fitting perfect Raider's jacket on me, may not look the same on someone else who wears the same size unless they have the same exact body shape as I do (God forbid ).

I agree with Rick. There's very little room in my jacket - which is based on pretty good measurements - and I didn't ask for an "80s fit" or anything of that nature.

I have this perverse feeling at the back of my mind that if someone asks Peter for an "80s fit" he just knocks their measurements down half an inch all 'round, then when they get it, and it's a bit more snug, they are like, "Wow... 80's fit!"

When, to be frank, there's really no such thing

I am not saying the jackets didn't fit differently, just that there is not really a defined pattern for what makes an 80's fitting jacket. Peter has admitted that the jackets are blousier if I am not mistaken, but that is because the average population is also ..blousier

Peter has admitted that the jackets are blousier if I am not mistaken, but that is because the average population is also ..blousier

This is true!! I think the difference in the jackets made before was that
they may have had a tapper to them twards the bottom hem, instead of
being straight down the sides like they are today.

This would explain a more blousier look today on some people who
are not as "blousy" as some of us around the waist!!

Flathead