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Another tailoring question (sleeve length)
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 8:59 pm
by Indiana Croft
Well I received my new Wested Auth. goat. Man this jacket looks so sweet and I actully wore it today to work, temp was only in th mid 70's and it was very comfortable.
Hears my question: Sleeve length: It seems there's enough material on the inside, so I can lengthen it. When I'm standing, the length looks good, a little above the standard first thumb knuckle as recomended.
BUT when I'm driving the jeep my sleeve tends to ride up. Now I now it will ride up some but it seems to look un-natural. About a 1-1/4 or so above the wrist.
I've read in past posts that Peter will leave sleeves a little long, but I did send him my ol Wested to use for my measurements, but sleeves are actully shorter than my orriginal by a 1/2" I would have thought he would have made them a little longer.
I would like to avoid sending it back across the pond. Has any one else expereinced this problem.
I will also be emailing Peter to get his opinon of course, but I'm hoping the mighty COW will come through.
And yes pic's will be forth coming of all my new gear.
Thanks, Croft
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:10 pm
by IndyBlues
"We've got top men working on it"
Peter is looking into a few changes in design, that may help this little sleeve ride up problem.
I, and several other members have this same problem. Perfect length while arms are at your side, and when raised in front of you, ride-up city.
As far as changing anything on your existing jacket, best get in touch with Peter, he'll be the best to figure out what to do.
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:43 pm
by IndianaGuybrush
I really don't see how it's possible to have a jacket that doesn't ride up when you stick your arms out. The sleeves shorten because when you distort them from their original position (at rest at your sides) the fabric shortens... it has more distance to travel. In effect, you're extending your arm past the sleeve, not the other way around. If you increase the angle that the sleeves are from the jacket you'll have the same problem, only it will happen when you put your arms down. I just don't think it's physically possible to have sleeves that adjust length depending on how you hold your arm, especially one made of leather.
My advice is to just kind of accept it. I mean, I think we're all used tou our sleeves shortening when we put out arms out, as it has happened with every long sleeved garment we've ever worn in our lives. I personally don't think there is an easy way to change that. Sorry if I come off contrary guys, I certainly don't mean to get you down, just speakin my mind here.
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:55 pm
by Indiana Croft
All good points.
I had another thought and this is to all you own a Auth Goat, after it's broken in or have used pecards, does it actually hang differently, which might add that extra 1/2".
I know the storys about ride up and I think that maybe that extra might make the differnce of looking at the road or at my sleeve riding up. So if you live in NH and go up rte-125 in the morning and see a Jeep driving erradicly, don't worry it's just me. LOL.
Thanks for all reply so far and those to come.
Croft
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 10:00 pm
by IndianaGuybrush
My experience with the goat is that the sleeves actually come up a bit, say 1/4" to 1/2" with time, because the creases from when your arm bends work their way into the leather. The jacket softens up beautifully and is a real pleasure to wear, and is dang near indestructable. I have never regretted getting a goat as my first jacket.
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 10:13 pm
by Bufflehead Jones
IndianaGuybrush wrote:My advice is to just kind of accept it. I mean, I think we're all used tou our sleeves shortening when we put out arms out, as it has happened with every long sleeved garment we've ever worn in our lives.
I agree. When you are being fitted for a jacket by a tailor, there is a reason why he has you hold your arms down at your side to check your sleeve length. That is where it should fit properly, not when your arms are straight out in front of you, unless you are in the same gene pool as Frankenstein.
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 10:59 pm
by Swindiana
IndianaGuybrush wrote:My experience with the goat is that the sleeves actually come up a bit, say 1/4" to 1/2" with time, because the creases from when your arm bends work their way into the leather. The jacket softens up beautifully and is a real pleasure to wear, and is dang near indestructable. I have never regretted getting a goat as my first jacket.
I'm with you all the way on that. I sent in my sleeve length a tad too long and they ended up on my knuckles when the jacket was new. Good advice told me not to alter them and now they stay at the nuckle of my thumb. A second coating of dressing smoothed out the creases a bit and elongated the sleeves but the process of back to "thumb nuckle length" started quite quickly. It is nice and soft now too.
Regards,
Swindiana
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 8:38 am
by IndyBlues
Mike, I think you missed the idea on this thread. Ride up when lifting the arms out from your sides, as Maul is doing, is acceptable. It's very minimal. And since there isn't too many times that any of us folks here are going to be doing the Iron Cross on the rings, that this isn't a problem.
The thing we are talking about is when the sleeves ride up when you arms are in front of you. Try sitting on a bar stool with your Wested on, and leaning on the bar holding your brew. When the jacket rides up like that, it looks like you're wearing you're little brothers jacket.
OR as stated above, while driving. The sleeves ride up halfway up the forearm.
I think that if Peter makes a few minor adjustments to the sleeves, this won't affect the look of the jacket in the least. If after he looks over his designs, and sees there is no way to improve on this, than at least we can say he tried. I love my Wested jacket, and I'm planning on buying another very soon. If Peter is interested in these ideas, I think that is a good thing.
Looking at pics of yours, and Mauls, I think you've had some things changed for the better, that are moving the design forward for the good of the product, especially the wider back panel. That right there makes the back feel less restrictive.
I'll try to describe how my jacket fits, so if Peter reads this, he may get more insight into what we are thinking.
I normally wear a size 48, and I ordered a size 50 Wested. The jacket fits me like a glove, perfectly comfortable, and plenty of room for movement, and room for layers underneath.
Now, bear with me. When I raise my arms out to the sides( like Mauls pic) there is very minimal ride-up, and since I'm not a crossing guard, this isn't a problem at all.
When I point both arms in front of me, parallel to the floor, the sleeves pull on the pleats, as they ar supposed to, but the pleats feel like they are straining against the sleeves, to the point that the seams feels like they could be under stress. Now this seems to me like:
A: There isn't enough material on the back area of the sleeve, where it connects to the pleat material,
B: there isn't enough pleat material attached to the sleeve.
I think it lies more in the sleeve, because any more pleat material under the arm area, and the jacket will feel too blousey, and we are going to be able to glide with them on, like a flying squirrel.
Again, this is my experience, and a few others that I've talked to.
I'm not trying to critique Peters jacket at all. If anything, I'm trying to give ideas to what may be the problem with the sleeve ride up.
I think that it's awesome that Peter even reads these boards, let alone replies here, more so than any other vendor. I know he cares about his jacket design, and also that he cares about people getting the jacket that they want. Peter is a true gentleman, and from 99.9% of what I've read on these boards, is a pleasure to do business with.
How often do we get to talk to the owners of any business that we buy products from, let alone talk about minute adjustments that would make most business folk kick you out, and refuse to do business with you.
Thanks Peter, and I in no way intended to criticise your design, just point out a few things that might help it. Forgive me if it was taken that way.
AND PLEASE DON"T BLACK LIST ME!!!!!
Ride `em Indy
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 2:30 pm
by Gobler
You know, I do not have a jacket...YET!
But I have noticed in Raiders there are a few times when his sleeves ride up to his forearm. I have had jackets do this all the time, its just part of the odd shape of the human body. We bend and move in ways that some times materials cannot. Just watch Raiders again and notice the "ride up" of Indy's sleeves.
Cheers,
Jeff
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 2:58 pm
by IndyBlues
You don't have a jacket yet??? Then how can you understand where we are coming from?
I know all jackets have some ride up, and the ride up is an acceptable part of wearing certain style jackets.
But this ride up is sort of uncomfortable. Almost as if the sleeves are fighting you to move your arms forward. I'm sure this isn't the case for every jacket out there, even with minimal ride up.
Alright, let me see if I can explain this a little better.
All you jacket owners:
Take your jackets, (not while wearing them, of course)and with your left hand, grab the underarm part of the sleeve at it's lowest point in the armpit. Now, grab the end of the sleeve where it would be on the bottom of your wrist. Next, hold the sleeve up in front of you where it will be parallel to the floor. Does it look rather short to you? Is that how long your arms are? I measure 23 1/2" at the sleeves longest point, and a mere 16 1/2" at it's shortest. Thats a 7" difference, by my math.
Now since you raise your arms forward, alot more than backwards, wouldn't it make sense if there was more material in the back of the sleeve?
I think this may be why the arms refuse to lift forward, without a fight.
Anyone else that may observe this phenomenon, please chime in here, so I can be sure I'm not completely Coo Coo for Cocoa Puffs(tm), or not have a deformed jacket.
Much obliged,
"Blues
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 3:14 pm
by Michaelson
It has always been my understanding that this is what a gusset is supposed to solve, as the extra material required for the forward and upward motion is technically 'stored' in the armpit material, or specifically the 'gusset'. I'm taking it yours does not have this installed, right? I do not experience this with my FS, and it has gussets. I have experienced this with any other jacket, Wested or Wings alike, and none of them have gussets. Most all jackets are designed for the arms to remain at the sides, and limited forward motion (such as the bar leaning example). Gussets are installed when there's a lot of forward and upward motion by the arm. That's why the stunt jackets made by Wested HAVE gussets, as if they didn't, the stunt men would be constantly pulling their sleeves down, or would have their arms bound by the limited material give in the standard sleeve. Regards. Michaelson
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 3:23 pm
by IndyBlues
Michaelson, you are correct, sir. My Wested does not have the gussets option.
I was going to have them put on mine, but from some reading of old posts, I've heard that people who have them on Westeds, noticed a very insignificant difference in the operation, than on their jackets without them. I believe Peter once said that the jacket doesn't need them, but are available upon request, if I'm not mistaken.
I tell ya tho, I do wish I would have gone ahead and got them. Everytime I second guess myself, I end up paying for it.
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 3:28 pm
by Michaelson
Happens to all of us. You're in good company...
Regards. Michaelson
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 5:07 pm
by IndyBlues
Curses! Foiled by the Hokey-Pokey! :evil:
I still think that if the arms were attached to the body, at more of a raised angle, as stated before, there would be more freedom of movement.
I may be wrong, but I've checked a few other jackets I own, and they are raised slightly higher, and there is virtually no ride up at all.
Also, lowering the sleeve hole will make the situation worse than it is.
Trust me. The higher the armpit, the less the sleeve has an effect on the body of the jacket.
If you look at Got Mauls pics where his arms are raised, his sleeves are connected much higher than standard, and with the added gussets, this makes the sleeves even better.
Mauls jacket is NOT your standard Wested, and not really the best example to show how a Wested performs with the arms raised.
I'm actually very curious to see a pic of his jacket from the side, with
the arms raised forward. I guarantee he has no where near as much ride up as with a standard off the rack Wested.
I also love my Wested, but when I order another, I want to try and incorporate some of these changes, if Peter decides he wants to have a go at them. If not, I'll order one size up, and have the sleeves armpits raised slightly, as in Got Mauls pics, AND add gussets.
Like I stated earlier, this is no way a put down on Peters design, just trying to get a jacket that moves with me a bit more. I love the Indy jacket, and I will only buy a new one from Wested. I bought a used USWings froma fellow member, and while it doesn't have as much sleeve ride up in the forward position, it still doesn't feel as good as my Wested, and only looks half as good, IMHO.
I also only half agree with Michaelsons Gusset idea. I agree that the stunt guys would definately need more freedom of movement, so they could reach up and do certain scenes, but where I don't agree, is that when I drive my car, I don't consider that above and beyond the call of duty for any jacket. It's a normal thing we do every day, and some of us would definately rate it under "stunt driving", the way most people drive nowadays, myself included.
But I think the sleeves shouldn't hinder the way you feel when you drive.
Put it this way:
We all know the limits of the jacket right now. But if there didn't HAVE to be limits, wouldn't that be a positive thing??
Think about it.
Just my .02 cents
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 5:46 pm
by IndyBlues
I agree Mikey, both of those things are good changes, however, I believe Got Maul looked into getting the Yoke seam raised, and it was a no go.
Raiders was the only jacket to have a higher seam, I believe. The other two films the seam was where it is now standard. If that were to be changed, I believe it would mean a complete overhaul on the jacket, because it would also effect the interior liner. Changing the sleeves is a first step towards a better jacket. I'd be completely happy with that.
The wider back panel is a great way to go too, and from pics of seen of your jacket, IndyMikey, it's definately the way to go.
Pecards,
'Blues
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:55 pm
by Indiana Croft
Ok, now back to my question
Hears my question: Sleeve length: It seems there's enough material on the inside, so I can lengthen it
Has anyone gone to a tailor and used the material that is there to lengthen the sleeve with out sending it back to Peter.
My concerns are mainly the re-stiching and will there be a crease were the leather was orriginaly folded over. Now the question went out to those who own the goat but any and all are welcome to coment. We seem to agree about ride up, my paticular jacket is just shy above the nuckle by a half inch, and if I could get another 3/4" more this would take care of problem as well get prepared for that future when jacket crease will develop in the elbow area.
Thanks very much for the great discusion, this place is very interesting.
Croft
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 2:21 am
by Bufflehead Jones
IndyBlues wrote:and some of us would definately rate it under "stunt driving"
You rang?
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 11:35 am
by Michaelson
Well, Blues, you can 'half agree' if you want to, but that's why the gussets were there, and ARE there.
I must have a really special jacket then, as mine does NOT do what you are describing here, and only experience the common problem of the ride up of the sleeves with the extra material taken up by the elbow, and even then only experience about a 2 inch movement on the cuffs. With jackets WITHOUT gussets, I experience a larger move, but only on jackets that have not had this movement considered into the length. When that extra length is incorporated into the sleeve, I experience the same amount of motion and rideup. I do have more overhead movement with the jacket with gussets, and less with the non-gusseted jackets. It's all in what you plan on doing while wearing the jacket. If you're experiencing a huge ride up, it's a length problem of the sleeve. I've given up trying to count the number of Indy jackets that has come and gone through my closet from various vendors over the past decade, and almost all materials offered out there, (including a few rare pre-distressed versions
) and have experienced the exact same thing as I've described above, with the exception of the FS that has the gussets installed. Take it all for what it's worth. I'm only giving you what I've experienced, and what I've been told by our vendors over the years in design discussions. Regards. Michaelson
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 11:59 am
by FLATHEAD
I'm only giving you what I've experienced, and what I've been told by our vendors over the years in design discussions.
This is very true. The other thing people do not seem to be considering
is the fact that leather does not stretch like fabric jackets.
A cloth jacket, or other weaved material, will stretch and give when you
stretch and reach. Shirts and sweaters will do this too. This is why they
don't ride up like leather, nylon, and vinyl jackets do.
As Michaelson said, the only real way to get any extra movement is
to incorporate gussets, or a true bi-swing back into a leather jacket.
Just look at an authentic A-2 jacket and a Navy G1. The A-2 was
designed without gussets or a bi-swing back, and the sleeves and
body will ride up if you reach up with your arms.
The navy G1, which has a bi-swing back, will not do this as the bi-swing
back goes all the way up to the shoulder, and when you reach, the extra
material in the pleats will expand outward, and give you the extra
material to avoid ride up while reaching up and out. The G1 was specifically
designed to do this. The A-2 was not.
LL Bean Barn Coats have this same feature. Their bi-swing back goes
all the way up to the shoulder, so as you move, the back opens up
with your movement.
The Indy jackets pleats only go as far as the back yoke, which lines up
with the arm seam. Because it does not go all the way up to the shoulder
seam, and the yoke is in line with your arm, when you reach forward,
you are not using the pleats, you are actually pulling on the yoke seam,
and you are not getting any extra movement from the pleats.
The Indy jacket was made more for its fashion and look, not for its function
like a navy G1. The pleats open more when you move around, or sit
down, or twist your body, not when you just move your arms. Its the design of the
jacket, and unless you add gussets to the underarms as Michaelson said,
and move the pleats all the way up to the shoulder seam, you will always
get some ride up when you reach with your arms, and the leather can
not stretch like a fabric jacket.
Its just the way the jacket was designed.
Flathead
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 12:02 pm
by Got Maul
I would say using my jacket is a horrible example to illustrate your point. My jacket is no where near the "standard" indy. It has a TON of alterations done to it and does not reflect the jacket that Wested does in design or standard. For instance, my shoulder seams were lowered, I asked for a tapered sleeve and the tightest fitting 42 they could ring up. These two alterations alone change the jacket fit greatly. I mean, what it comes down to is ACCURACY vs COMFORT. Peter B. and I spoke about this at great length. He told me that if lowered my seams, I would get that ride up. So I added gussets...while this helps vastly, it does not alleviate the problem...just allows me to move just a bit better. In addition, because I lowered the seams and had a tapered sleeve, I would have additional back flaring. Secondly I also had my pockets made smaller and peter retorted that I wouldn't be able to put my hands in them...I said DO IT ! lol (my hands do fit btw- narrowly)
So its the oldest story in the book. Do you want to be accurate or do you want to be comfortable? I chose accuracy because I am a nut. After looking at my customizations, peter stated that the requests jason and I had were very close to the way the real jacket was made and the way the indy jacket used to be manufactured for the public..., but because of response in discomfort, ride up and general functionality, they made gradual changes that has come be to be known as their standard jacket today....which is lowered arm seam, larger pockets, elastic, larger yoke, non-extended back panel seams.....and the list goes on.
Also take into consideration these tidbits which vastly forever changes the way the Indy jacket that Harrison wore is different from today. Two points:
1. the material of the jacket, basically lambskin was tanned differently back then by a supplier who was able to get them to just below the stiffness of goat, but still retain the qualities of lambskin. Today, this supplier no longer exists and peter has stated that there is no one out there who does anymore, so the original material is gone, gone gone...the way I see it.
2. while going back and forth with peter with sewing of zipper, I asked him to extend my zipper all the way to the bottom, just like the movie. Peter said that he would do his best, but it was impossible to go all the way to bottom because the jackets he made today have lining (thus a lining/leather bottom seam) while the original Raiders didn't. This lil tidbit was quite interesting (also makes a lot of sense considering its a movie jacket and anyone who has ever taken a walk through Disney or Sony archive will tell you 90 percent of the costumes in wardrobe do NOT have lining...for movie budget). So without the lining, it would change quite a bit in harrison's jacket movement considering there is less fabric to be moving, tugging, pulling, etc. Thus basing our considerations on what the movie jacket does during Raiders and our interpretations of what our own jackets do during normal use...is a bit ascewed.
Again, Functionality versus Accuracy....I would rather be umcomfortable and accurate than comfortable and innaccurate. When Peter told me that he would not do any other alterations once these customizations were finalized and I assumed full responsibility for them, he was more or less telling me to accept the fact that it wasn't going to "feel" right. But to tell you the truth, I still have a lot of movement and ride up doesn't bother me in the slightest bit.
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:21 pm
by Indiana Croft
Ok hope this works, here are pic's of my jacket, as well as the action pleat on left side seems to pucker more than on right.
Tell me truthfully am I just being anal here or what.
http://public.fotki.com/IndianaCroft/
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:26 pm
by Michaelson
I see a 'this folder is empty' message.
Regards. Michaelson
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:27 pm
by Indiana Croft
Yea I know I'm working on it.
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:35 pm
by Michaelson
Just as an observation based on one I had come through my hands, I, too, had one that 'puckered' like you describe, and found it was due to the panel just being a bit wider than my back. I seem to experience this with a jacket that wasn't technically form fitted to me, but the pucker disappeared when I wore a sweater underneath in colder weather. This could be what you're experiencing. Nothing to be concerned with, in my opinion, and as time passes (I hate to say this
), many of us seem to fill that extra space, and the pucker magically goes away. 8-[ Just tossing that out there for your consideration. Of course, this is coming from a fellow who can care less if his action pleats are gapeing open or not. I mean, I can't see them, so why should I care?
Regards. Michaelson
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:42 pm
by Indiana Croft
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:58 pm
by Scandinavia Jones
I don't know, Croft... can't really see anything wrong with them pleats. The "pucker" about as much as they do on my authentic lamb. Or, as Peter Botwright said, "that's what they do, they're
action pleats..." I wouldn't worry. When Swindiana first got his jacket, the backplate was faulty... now those pleats were wide open...
A funny thing: I've discovered that when I wear my Wested and pose for good, clear action pleat pics, somehow, sub-consciously or not, I end up standing in a very unnatural position which causes the pleats to open up more than usual. I noticed this when I saw some pics of me in the jacket, taken at a party... in those "casual" pics, the pleats are shut. I'm not trying to show them off, just standing there... no puckering.
Michaelson wrote:
I mean, I can't see them, so why should I care?
Apparently, when you can't see them, that's when they look good...
Indiana Croft wrote:
Tell me truthfully am I just being anal here or what.
When gear is involved - aren't we all?
/SJ
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:59 pm
by Got Maul
that's funny. I thought I was the only one who experienced the one sided pucker. Mother pucker, how about that ? You could actually see it in my photos. Though Michaelson is right, a lot of it has to do with the clinching of the side band. You might have it on there too tight ! also, the flaring isn't that bad. I know some other flares that are just way out. Your's is not even that bad at all. In my opinion, a lot of it has to do with the fact that peter (somewhere down the road) started employing a 2-3 inch action pleat when the original was more like 1.5 inches. When I discovered this on my jacket, I asked peter if it was fixable and unfortunately it is not, at least without altering the jacket all together. He then suggested putting in elastic (I said no).
Also, I think the legnth of the sleeve looks fine man. I honestly don't see it being too short at all. In fact, the indy look is a fitted one...nice and snug.
BTW- GREAT looking jacket ! Peter did you right on that design ! Also did anyone notice (barring Indiana Croft specifically requested this...) Peter now brings his back panel seam all the way out to the edge ? Hopefully we're having an impact on making his more standard coats more accurate !
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 7:02 pm
by Michaelson
You better believe Peter listens to his customer. The changes in the jacket to date since the introduction of the internet have been unbelieveable, and Peter has risen to each and every challenge.....sometimes kicking and screaming, but he has risen every time. (grins) Regards. Michaelson
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 7:03 pm
by Scandinavia Jones
Strangely, if I do not tighten the side straps the pleats hang wide open...
:
/SJ
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 7:09 pm
by Michaelson
They seem to do different things to different people! I even see differences between my own jackets. That's how difficult these jackets are to make, as one small change in one area can shift something in a different area.
Regards. Michaelson
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 8:07 pm
by Indiana Croft
Thanks all. Any more comments keep'em comin.
What do you think of the sleeve length.
Croft
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 8:17 pm
by IndyBlues
Indiana Croft wrote:Thanks all. Any more comments keep'em comin.
What do you think of the sleeve length.
Croft
Hey Croft, the jacket looks pretty nice, but I may have to agree with you on the sleeve length. I thought my sleeves were short when standing with my arms at my sides, but yours look about 1/2" shorter than mine.
My sleeves end right at the 1st knuckle of my thumb, where as yours sem to end about midway between wrist and 1st knuckle.
I mean it looks fine the way your standing, but I'm sure they sem to ride up like crazy when you lift them.
Also, what FLATHEAD stated about the width of the back yoke. I definately need a wider upper back panel on my next Wested.
Considereing what was stated about the pleats really not functioning when your arms are out in front, if the back was slightly wider, I believe this would help facilitate better arm movement.
The plot thickens, and I'm taking notes.
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 10:48 pm
by Captain D
Yes, all of this is very interesting reading!
With regards to this "puckering effect," (lol, I laugh as I write), I was watching the "
Last Crusade" on the
Widescreen DVD the other day and noticed this "puckering"....
At the very end of
Last Crusade, when Indy is talking to the "last of the three brothers who swore an oath to find the Grail and got it".....and right before he hands Indy his sword, the camera gets a REALLY good close-up shot of his back action pleats just for a few moments. Its at this point that it looks as if the action pleats are indeed "puckering" at the top of his pleats.....if anyone has the Widescreen DVD and notices this scene, let me know what you think....
Kind Regards,
Captain D
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2004 8:30 am
by Lao Feng
Indy Croft--I think your jacket looks great! The puckering is neglibile. It is supposed to pucker somewhat in order to work the pleat. Sleeve length looks OK as well.
1/2 or 1/4 inch is, I think nothing to worry about. If we were talking about an inch or more...well that's another story.
We sometimes forget that open barrel cuffs will rarely be perfect and that our two arms are usually different in length depending on whether you are left or right handed. And there will ALWAYS be sleeve-ride-up on any jacket...One of the reasons (besides keeping out the wind) that the Army Air Corps went to the A-2 (vice open barrel cuffs) was that with wool cuffs they could mass produce the jacket without individual specs. Take a look at old photos os USAAF pilots from WW2 and see how much variation there is in sleeve length in group photos of bomber crews...some have the wool cuffs streched tight to the limit, others have sleeves so long they have to cut off or fold up the cuffs.
Bottom line, Dear Croft--your jacket looks great and you look great in it!
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2004 10:19 am
by Michaelson
All in all, I concur with the above bottom line. Sure, the sleeves COULD have been a LITTLE longer, but since they've now settled into where they're going to go, they won't get any shorter. By adding length, there's probably not enough in the hem to do the job, but bare in mind, you now have a crease there that will NOT go away if you DO lengthen the sleeve. The first cowhide Wested I ever got hold of was from _ a lifetime ago. He successfully lenghtened the sleeves by about an inch, but the crease lines were there. We tried Pecards, polish, etc., and though it toned it down, the lines were there and REMAINED there. It was apparent for all to see that the sleeves had been let out. This was even a pre-distressed jacket, and even the distressing didn't hide it.
In your case, both perceived 'problems' you point out are really issues of personal taste. The jacket looks great, and I guarantee that as you wear the jacket, they will appear and disappear at will, depending on the position you're wearing the jacket at in any given time.
Wear it in good health. It's a great example of an Indy jacket, and looks like it should serve you well for years to come!
Regards. Michaelson
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2004 11:59 am
by Got Maul
yes, bottom line : You look great in the jacket.
you are doing what I did when I first received mine...finding for small details that could be approved. It wasn't until I got jason, people on this board and friends telling me that I fit well in my jacket when I realized it was a great looking piece....that's when I started really enjoying it !
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2004 7:57 pm
by Indiana Croft
Thanks one and all.
Well I have to addmit I'm a stickler for apperance and while driving I keep looking at how the sleeves ride up and it'll bug me till I bite the bullet and send it back. Well I decided to bite it early before the fall weather hits and I can really start to enjoy the jacket. I emailed Peter and he said turn around wood be quick, heck I plan to get me another Indy shirt since I'll have to pay for some shipping, figure I might as well take advantage. And yes I must have posted at least a dozen time that jacket was purchased from England and being sent back for repairs, I copied it right of the Wested site and pasted it to a document, enlarged and made it bold, this time Idon't think I'll have any problems.
When my jacket comes back I'll of course post pic's with mand and all my gear.
Thanks again for all the complaments.
Croft
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 8:04 am
by Got Maul
you gotta love peter and wested. What a company !
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 7:39 pm
by Indiana Croft
Got an email from Peter today looks like I won't be getting that extra shirt after all, to have the slleves replace will cost me ......
If we are talking about replacing the sleeves with longer ones we are talking of a cost of £30 plus the £30 carriage.
if thats the case I'll just have to go with new sleeves. Petere was going to try and just let it out but there would a chance of a ....
I would normally only do what the local tailor would have done which would leave a slight mark on the sleeve
I think in the long run if there a mark I won't be happy so I told Peter to replace sleevs.
Croft
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 10:20 pm
by Captain D
Indiana Croft,
I too have just sent my Wested back to have the larger, 2-Piece, under-arm Gussets added to one of my jackets. This would include placing new sleeves, as well. I sent it off this morning before work actually, lol.
However, upon reading your post, I am curious to ask:
1.) Peter told me that the cost to have this done would be like $50 and $30 for shipping. You say that to have new sleeves placed on your jacket is 30 "pounds".....But, 30 Pounds is more costly than $30 US dollars, correct? (I hope that Peter did not make a mistake in writing $$ INSTEAD of "pounds." If that is the case, I suppose to have my jacket fixed may be more costly than I had expected....?).
2.) I shipped my jacket with TONS of labels as instructed. I typed: "Jacket is being returned to England for repairs/alterations and is under warranty." I typed it out on my computer and made them very bold, then taped them all over my box. So, hopefully, my jacket will not be returned to me unrecieved by Wested.
Perhaps I better write Peter and double-check the US Dollars and UK Pounds info, and hope that he didn't make a mistake in writing.....
Sincerely,
Captain D
Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 5:48 pm
by Indiana Croft
Captain D
30 pounds will equal in US dollar about 56.00. I was going to buy a shirt but know that I have to pay for the sleeves I'm going for replaced sleeves only, so my shipping should come down.
I'm also think of asking Peter for the old sleeve's so I can experiment on distressing versus just taking the shine off.
I did email him that I'm just going to the replacement so I hope my shipping does come down.
Use this site to help convert US to British pounds / sterling
http://www.xe.com/ucc/
Croft
Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2004 12:37 pm
by Captain D
Hey there Croft!
Thank you for the reply and for the link to the website, it has been helpful and I'm sure it will come in handy for future purchases, ect...
Good luck on your sleeves, thats a good idea to get your old sleeves back to experiment on!
Take care and let us know how everything turned out!
Captain D
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 8:58 am
by Michaelson
Glad to see Peter backed what I already told you about the marks that will be left if you just let the sleeve out. I'd sure hate to be accused of leading you astray.
Regards. Michaelson
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 6:12 pm
by Indiana Croft
Michaelson my friend I would never think otherwise, that the info that you have would be other than correct, (wipes nose). LOL
But really I recieved another email from Gerry today, he's going to to see how it looks when he lets the sleeves out, but I told him that if there's any mark at all to go ahead and replace the sleeves.
I'll keep all posted and when jacket comes back I'll take some new pics.
Croft
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 6:14 pm
by Michaelson
Looking forward to hearing the final results. Sounds like they're willing to try anything to make things right... Regards. Michaelson