Club Obi Wan

Hi,
I'd realy appreciate some advice from those of you who have already taken the plunge!

1) I don't think brown is really my colour, and I'm not at all bothered about authenticity, so I'm probably going to go for a black lambskin TOD. Has anyone else bought a black Wested Indy jacket? Got any pics you can show me?

2) Is the TOD jacket *identical* to the Raiders, except for the extra inch?

3) What's the general consensus about requesting an extra inch/inch and a half on the front of the jacket? Is it not needed for people with a slimmer figure, or is this something that everyone should consider (remember I'm not going for authenticity)?

4) I've never been measured for clothes in my life! If I go to a Tailor and ask to have my measurements taken, would I be expected to buy something from them?

5) Are there any special requests you would recommend? Here are my initial thoughts:

Black Lambskin TOD
Antique brass zip
Cotton Silesia lining with satin sleeves
Rings: Undecided - any comments?
2 zippered inside pockets (possibly with minimal leather facing - undecided)
Gussets under sleeves
Elastic on action pleats
Hidden studs on storm flap

Many thanks for your help!

Okay, I don't have all the answers you're lookin' for, but I can help out somewhat with this one:

4) I've never been measured for clothes in my life! If I go to a Tailor and ask to have my measurements taken, would I be expected to buy something from them?

When I ordered my last Wested, I just gave them my size (i.e. 44 reg.) and then measured the sleeves and back panel of another leather jacket that fit me very well. I then supplied them with this and they delivered a PERFECT fit to me. I never went to a tailor so I'm not sure if you would be expected to buy anything, but if you already know your suit-jacket size and have another jacket (preferably leather) that fits you well, you may not have to worry about the tailor at all. Good luck!

-GCR

On the same issue:
I only went to and found one tailor to get measured and he wanted about $25 for it. Instead, I had my girlfreind measure me and ended up with a great fit just the way I wanted it anyway. I'm not sure you'll be expected to buy anything, but I'm pretty sure there might be a small (or large) fee for it.

5) Are there any special requests you would recommend? Here are my initial thoughts:

On my Temple goat jacket I also had the press studs added. It was a bit tight around my neck when fully zipped and snapped and I know that at least one other person felt the same way with this gonfig. My jacket is currently at Wested for some modifications and one of them is adding a little more room around the neck. My guess is that the ToD-version jacket is not really intended to have the snaps and therefor could be a bit tight if adding them to the original pattern. I'd go ahead and ask Wested that the neck should not be made too tight.

Rings: Undecided - any comments?

I know a few people have had trouble with lamb and D-rings. I also know that they have solved the problem, slipping of the straps, pretty easily by just turning the rings 180 degrees, doubling the leather back or even adding an extra layer to the straps in order to thicken them. I opted for the rectangular sliders on my jacket and they seemed to work great and looked nice. I also think this is what I see on screen when watching ToD, not the D-rings.

I hope everything works out for you. Welcome!

Regards,
Swindiana

To answer #1 just go with what you like. The DK brown lamb appears black in most lighting except sun. So going with black really won't change anything in general appearance so go ahead.

2) Is the TOD jacket *identical* to the Raiders, except for the extra inch?

The way Peter makes it, it should be. Though for film accuracy it was not but that was due to a 2nd company that also made some jackets for the film.

3) What's the general consensus about requesting an extra inch/inch and a half on the front of the jacket? Is it not needed for people with a slimmer figure, or is this something that everyone should consider (remember I'm not going for authenticity)?

I ordered my 1st without hearing about this and it came out perfect. And I am not super slim (I don't have a gut neither). I think it probably depends on your build. Heavier set guys might want to give Peter your waist measurement and just ask him about it.

4) I've never been measured for clothes in my life! If I go to a Tailor and ask to have my measurements taken, would I be expected to buy something from them?

Absolutely not. You need your correct measurements to just look for a suit. No one says you have to buy from them. Or go to a tux rental place. They'll measure you up, you can check on snazzy suits and tell them you're still looking at options.

5) Are there any special requests you would recommend?

1) I would ask that the back panel extend all the way to the sleeves.

2) Measure yourself from the neck to your shoulder (shoulder seam). I did this and I measure just short of 8". Peter's jacket specs quote 6 7/8" on my jacket size. The one he made was perfect for me (8")

3) I asked for a slightly smaller collar (no more than 2 3/4") at front

4) I don't believe the elastics are necessary. They bulge out in the films and I think it has to due with your dimensions and posture.

AC

antiquity collector wrote:
1) I would ask that the back panel extend all the way to the sleeves

Could someone post a picture of this because I'm having a hard time visualizing it. I really think I need to see a picture of a jacket with and without this modification.

As to the original query in this post:

4) no self-respecting tailor will charge you for a set of measurements. A good tailor will be courteous and do the measurements for free in hopes of getting return business from you, which you should by all means give him. Make sure you work that out ahead of time though, so you don't get a set of measurements and have the tailor holding his hand out for payment as you slink towards the door. Let them know what the measurements are for, then ask if they charge. Shop around, you'll find a good one, and it's worth it.

I think I'll just phone around to find a tailor who'll take my measurements, either for free or for a reasonable charge. Another question springs to mind:

6) Are there any additional measurements, other than those mentioned on Wested's site, that you think I should provide in order to get the best fit? I know the more details I give them, the better, but are there any measurements in particular that you think are important?

IndianaGuybrush wrote:

antiquity collector wrote: 1) I would ask that the back panel extend all the way to the sleeves

Could someone post a picture of this because I'm having a hard time visualizing it. I really think I need to see a picture of a jacket with and without this modification.

I'd like to see what the extended back panel looks like too. Also, why would you go for that? Is it just for looks, comfort, or some other reason?

Thanks for all the responses so far, I really appreciate the advice

In reply:

1) Looks as though you already made up your mind. Black is black. Their browns on the other hand range from a dark umber (nearly black) to the lighter color brown of the pre-distressed cow to the slightly reddish tinge of the authentic jackets.

2) According to Peter’s site, length is the only difference although it seems to be a superfluous option since you can request a longer length to any of the three jackets anyway, as well as a smaller or larger collar, pocket placement and size, hidden or unhidden studs, or just a bottom stud without a top one (my choice), etc... It is after all a custom jacket.

3) It really has nothing to do with authenticity, but rather with fit. Your choice of the cotton body should help somewhat with that problem, IMO, so that the jacket does not ride back and forth on your shoulders which exasperates the problem. It’s always seemed to me that if your jacket is made well, and not too tight, you should not be unduly bothered with the front ‘looking’ as though it is riding higher than the back, same as with a well made suit. I also believe it has to do with your build and whether you have normal, half sloping, full sloping shoulders AND whether your overall posture is normal, half stooping, full stooping, or stout.

4) Finding a GOOD tailor is essential, at least to me. And although you don’t have to purchase anything from a clothier, it is always helpful if you know his work. I have had custom cloths made on many occasions, and by different tailors, and each tailor has his own way of measuring and if you visit three tailors, you will likely get three (slightly, and sometimes not so slightly) different measurements because they tend to measure you with their style of working in mind and an eye to what you are choosing to be measured for; suit, shirt, overcoat, jacket... Also, I would add, most tailors I’ve known DO charge a nominal amount if you are not placing an order with them. To avoid embarrassment, it’s best to ask over the phone since some tailors can charge quite a bit for seemingly doing very little.

5) With lambskin I personally would go with the sliders as opposed to the D rings and I would also request nylon zippers on the inside pockets with minimal leather facings. Other than that it looks like you have everything else covered with the gussets and elastic on the action pleats.

6) Get as many as your tailor thinks is necessary since this will not be a jacket he is familiar with and is not making for you.