Club Obi Wan

I’ve been on a quest for my Indy jacket for a few months now, and it’s been quite a journey. I’ve never owned one before, and it’s been exciting and stressful trying to get one that works for me. I am wondering if you fine people can give me some advice?

I am a heavier guy, and I guess I am not standard proportions. In standard American sizing, I am a size XL in my torso, but my arms are more of a size L in length. When buying jackets, this usually means that a size L jacket will have the right arm length, but be too tight on the torso, and a size XL jacker will be fine in the torso, but the arms will be too long. So I thought I’d order a custom Wested to try to account for this, and give them my exact sizes.

I did this a few months ago, but I completely messed up the order. I ordered from Wested:

• Last Crusade 46”
• Sleeves 24.5”
• Length 26” <-- this is where I messed up.

Immediately after placing the order I realized that the length I entered was probably going to be too short. I emailed Wested and asked them to make the length 27” instead. The Wested rep said it was not usual to make changes after the order was placed, but in my case, he would add a note to the order for a 27” back. About a month later the jacket arrived. I excitedly try it on, and immediately notice the back feels way too short. Like above my pants-line. I measure it, and the back measures at 26”…

I email Wested to explain about the 26” back, when I requested and was confirmed the 27” back. The Wested rep reiterated the need to get the order right the first time, and after a terse back and forth, they refunded the jacket completely. They said I can keep it, or do whatever with it, which was a very nice gesture. I wanted to keep goodwill with Wested, so I sent it back to them and paid shipping myself.

I then ordered, and returned, a, US Wings Signature Series Goatskin. I thought I’d get the XL and get the long sleeves tailored myself. It was just too big and bulky, and not what I was looking for in the Indy jacket. I liked the lightness of the Wested lambskin…

So now I am back to wanting to order a Wested. I emailed them again a few days ago. I described exactly what I plan on ordering, to see if they have any thoughts or see red flags in my plan. I don’t want to make the mistake of a wrong order again… However, it’s been a few days and Wested has not responded. I worry I might have burned my goodwill with their service department.

Here is what I am thinking now:

• Custom Last Crusade in brown lambskin
• Jacket size 48” - The last jacket I ordered was a 46”. It was a little too snug in the chest when I had it zipped up. My chest measures at 46”, but if the last jacket I had was too tight, I think maybe sizing up is the way to go?
• Back length 27.5” - The last jacket I ordered had a 26” back, which was the main issue with it. It felt way too short, which is why I’m going up to 27.5”.
• Sleeve length 24” - The last jacket I ordered was 24.5” sleeves. They were a little too long, but not bad. They came to mid-thumb. I think maybe a little shorter could be better?

What do you think? Does anything stand out as crazy with this plan? Think Wested will even take my money again? Should I just give up now?

I have owned two Wested Jackets - one good and the other so wrong that it was embarrassing. In my experience while they have the pedigree, they can be very hit and miss.
I also own 3 x Wings jackets and 2 x Magnoli's - the Magnoli's are terrific.

If I were you I would go to Steele and Jones and order through them. I have got a couple of their jackets and while the one Wested Jacked was good, even that 'good' jacket doesn't compare to the jackets I have received from S&J - by a long mile. There is no question that even with them there can be issues (although I have never had any) but I found the time and care they take in the ordering process and the manufacturing, results in some of the very best jackets on the market today..

Just a thought
M

You make a compelling case…

Unless those sleeves were waaaay too long, stick with the 24.5, because when they wrinkle up you’ll lose that 1/2” in length…

When you're not a standard size it's very hard to gauge and advise this sort of thing. Like how tall are you, and what is your waist measurement? If your waist is greater than your chest measurment that throws things off. I mean you're probably wearing your pants at crotch height, in which case you'd probably need a 28" back and size up on the chest. That's a vague ballpark guess, could be wrong.

xmasters wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 3:44 pm When you're not a standard size it's very hard to gauge and advise this sort of thing. Like how tall are you, and what is your waist measurement? If your waist is greater than your chest measurment that throws things off. I mean you're probably wearing your pants at crotch height, in which case you'd probably need a 28" back and size up on the chest. That's a vague ballpark guess, could be wrong.

Good point! My waist is 40", inseam is 29", chest is 46", and I am 5'9".

So waist isn't greater than the chest. Just getting the backlength you want is the thing. If you're 5'9 though a 27" back is quite a long length for an Indy jacket. The movie jackets weren't longer than 25" and Ford was 6ft tall.

Humm I dunno. Maybe I have short legs and longer torso? The 26” back on the Wested LC felt unnaturally short to wear. But maybe that’s how it’s supposed to be and I’m just not used to it?

You're probably not used to it. At a 46 chest you're used to wearing what an XL? Most jackets in that size are probably 28-30" in the back. That's the problem with the USW jacket; most people with a 46" chest are taller than average, hence the arm length. And leather not being a textile makes it way less forgiving. That said, 27" isn't that long for an LC -- Wested's OTR in like 40 has something like a 27" back. Now if you were getting a Raiders Hero then a 27" back would be exceptionally long, but a standard Wested pattern it's not too bad.
The general idea is that with jeans on the jacket should come just past the belt and just meet the tops of the back pockets. Shorter than that looks silly but a bit longer is fine and time and wrinkling will bring it up some. Now if it's so long it covers the pockets then that's also silly.

27.5" is approaching car coat length for someone that's only 5'9". I would rethink where you think the Indy jacket should fall and how it should fit. I'm 5'10" and my LC is 25". Also, if you're a 46" chest, then I would stick with a size 46 and not size up. In the end, you'll be swimming inside the 48 and again hate how it fits. I think it's better for you to get used to a snugger fit of a 46.

That's my advice.

The beauty I found in working with S&J on the jackets I own (and this goes for the Fedora's they make as well) is that they carefully take your measurements and create a jacket or hat that is perfectly in keeping with what we saw Harrison wearing on screen and transform it into something that suits you. I am 6ft 4inches and weight around 215lbs so well out of Ford's dimensions and weight but there is no question that to my eye, all of the jackets they have made for me as well as the Fedora I acquired work perfectly in capturing the essence of those items of clothing when considering their legacy.

There is no question that you must be comfortable with the vendor you select and if they are willing to work with you to get the jacket looking like an Indy jacket then go with anyone you feel suits your needs.

Best of luck
M

marker2037 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 22, 2023 3:50 pm 27.5" is approaching car coat length for someone that's only 5'9". I would rethink where you think the Indy jacket should fall and how it should fit. I'm 5'10" and my LC is 25". Also, if you're a 46" chest, then I would stick with a size 46 and not size up. In the end, you'll be swimming inside the 48 and again hate how it fits. I think it's better for you to get used to a snugger fit of a 46.

That's my advice.

Yeah, though torsos do vary. Not nearly as much as legs, but they do vary -- the margin of error in biological archaeology while doing reconstruction when you've only got the spine and no long bones is +/- 15% which is A LOT. But the other thing is drape. At 5'9" with a 46" chest and 40" waist means there's likely some girth to overcome, meaning the longer the front has to be to drape the girth the longer the back has to be. (I hope I'm not being insensitive saying that )
But yeah, in leather jacket world it's better to size down and stretch to fit while breaking it in than size up.

Illinois_Jones wrote: ↑Wed Mar 22, 2023 11:07 pm

marker2037 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 22, 2023 3:50 pm 27.5" is approaching car coat length for someone that's only 5'9". I would rethink where you think the Indy jacket should fall and how it should fit. I'm 5'10" and my LC is 25". Also, if you're a 46" chest, then I would stick with a size 46 and not size up. In the end, you'll be swimming inside the 48 and again hate how it fits. I think it's better for you to get used to a snugger fit of a 46.

That's my advice.

Yeah, though torsos do vary. Not nearly as much as legs, but they do vary -- the margin of error in biological archaeology while doing reconstruction when you've only got the spine and no long bones is +/- 15% which is A LOT. But the other thing is drape. At 5'9" with a 46" chest and 40" waist means there's likely some girth to overcome, meaning the longer the front has to be to drape the girth the longer the back has to be. (I hope I'm not being insensitive saying that )
But yeah, in leather jacket world it's better to size down and stretch to fit while breaking it in than size up.

Oh for sure. No worries. I definitely think the "girth" is playing a role here. And I also think the particular cut of the Wested LC jacket also contributed. If you look at the sizing chart for the Wested off-the-rack jackets, the Raiders size 36" has a 26" back, where the LC size 36" has a 27" back. This tells me that, for whatever reason, the LCs need longer backs than the Raiders do. It was after I noticed this when I emailed Wested to ask for the longer back on the LC jacket.

Mark Raats wrote: ↑Wed Mar 22, 2023 9:36 pm The beauty I found in working with S&J on the jackets I own (and this goes for the Fedora's they make as well) is that they carefully take your measurements and create a jacket or hat that is perfectly in keeping with what we saw Harrison wearing on screen and transform it into something that suits you. I am 6ft 4inches and weight around 215lbs so well out of Ford's dimensions and weight but there is no question that to my eye, all of the jackets they have made for me as well as the Fedora I acquired work perfectly in capturing the essence of those items of clothing when considering their legacy.

There is no question that you must be comfortable with the vendor you select and if they are willing to work with you to get the jacket looking like an Indy jacket then go with anyone you feel suits your needs.

Best of luck
M

Thanks for the suggestion, Mark! It sounds like Steele and Jones is exactly what I need. I saw the name come up all over the place on forums, but you pushed me over the edge. I have started the order process with them, and am in their queue. Hopefully I'll have the jacket for the next Fall season!

As an owner of a Wested and an S&J, all I can say is "you have chosen wisely!"

I’ll have to serving that after my recent experience with Wested.

I’ve had jackets from all the vendors mentioned and no one tops Diego for customer service. His level of detail and patience with every one of my silly questions and dumb jokes is unmatched. Quality of product is also fantastic.

In the queue currently for my second from S&J. A TOD jacket.

I also ordered a Layer Cake jacket from Wested because I was intrigued by their shrunken lambskin.

Sleeves are way too wide. Sleeve opening at the wrist is over 6 inches. All other jackets I have had made are 5 inches at the wrist. It’s unwearable.
Wested claims they had the jacket inspected before being shipped. I really don’t see how that gets approved.
To their credit, they told me to take it to a tailor for a quote and email back. See what happens I guess.

Drifter

Update
Got a local tailor to taper the sleeves and Wested refunded me enough money to cover the costs.

Mick was great about it and dealt with the situation immediately.

Tailor was very impressed by the shrunken Lambskin. Has a very unique texture. Looking forward to breaking it in.

Drifter