Club Obi Wan

Hi all,

I've pretty much gotten all the pieces of my Indy Raiders outfit together/on order, other than one last crucial piece - the boots. I've read about the 403 and 405 Aldens, as well as the Wested boots. I've pretty much settled on getting a pair of Aldens - but still not sure as to which ones to get. I've read the differences between the 403 and 405s - the 403s look the 'part', but don't seem to hold up as well/long as the 405s. So I'm still torn between the two - however, am I overthinking it? Neither is going to give me the exact replica of the originals worn in Raiders...

For those who do have Aldens - I wear 10 - 10.5 shoes in US size; from what I've gathered, the Aldens run a bit big - is that true, and if so, should I go with size 10s?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance!

I wear an 11 athletic shoes, 10.5 dress shoes, and size 10 Aldens. Perfect fit. I have the 403s, still going strong after 7+ years, just got them resoled by Alden. Wonderful job. I think, yeah, the 405s might be the way to go for a more traditional wearing boot, but I've liked the 403 leather just fine.

Forrest For the Trees wrote:I wear an 11 athletic shoes, 10.5 dress shoes, and size 10 Aldens. Perfect fit. I have the 403s, still going strong after 7+ years, just got them resoled by Alden. Wonderful job. I think, yeah, the 405s might be the way to go for a more traditional wearing boot, but I've liked the 403 leather just fine.

Excellent, thanks for the response!

If you can make it to an Alden store (after this coronavirus madness), I'd really recommend getting professionally sized. Considering the different lengths and widths, it really helps to at the very least try on a few pairs, as with any halfway decent dress shoe/boot.

Side note, you might also want to consider getting inserts for comfort.

When you do venture out, just find a shoe store that can size you for orthapeidic shoes as these are what the Aldens are.
Mine are beat up from wear, but unfortunately Alden couldn’t of a repair.
One day I’ll get another pair.

Croft

Castor Dioscuri wrote:If you can make it to an Alden store (after this coronavirus madness), I'd really recommend getting professionally sized. Considering the different lengths and widths, it really helps to at the very least try on a few pairs, as with any halfway decent dress shoe/boot.

Side note, you might also want to consider getting inserts for comfort.

Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately, I don't live near an Alden store...however, I do live near a store that sells them - I'll probably end up going there in order to try them on and hopefully find the best size/fit.

Indiana Croft wrote:When you do venture out, just find a shoe store that can size you for orthapeidic shoes as these are what the Aldens are.
Mine are beat up from wear, but unfortunately Alden couldn’t of a repair.
One day I’ll get another pair.

Croft

Thanks - will do!

I recently bought a pair of 403s. The color appealed to me more than the 405s. These boots are built like tanks so my recommendation is to go with whichever one is more appealing to you and don't worry about whether one is more durable than the other. I imagine any difference in durability is marginal.

As far as sizing, everything I read said to go a 1/2 size down from what you normally wear and that was accurate in my case. I'm a size 10 in everything except Aldens (9.5).

It's a big investment but I wouldn't overthink it. You'll get a quality pair of boots regardless if you go with 403s or 405s.

simndermot wrote:I recently bought a pair of 403s. The color appealed to me more than the 405s. These boots are built like tanks so my recommendation is to go with whichever one is more appealing to you and don't worry about whether one is more durable than the other. I imagine any difference in durability is marginal.

As far as sizing, everything I read said to go a 1/2 size down from what you normally wear and that was accurate in my case. I'm a size 10 in everything except Aldens (9.5).

It's a big investment but I wouldn't overthink it. You'll get a quality pair of boots regardless if you go with 403s or 405s.

Thanks for the reply - and yeah, trying not to overthink it lol.

I have the 403s, still going strong after 7+ years, just got them resoled by Alden. Wonderful job

Can I ask what the final cost was, shipping and all?

I’ve had 403’s and 405’s, and prefer the 403’s by a wide margin. The Chromexcel is a more comfortable wearing leather, and is plenty durable if you take care of it. I’m a big fan of all things Obenauf’s Heavy Duty LP. I take a 9EE in all things New Balance, and an 8E in Alden’s, for reference.

What do y'all consider to be a more 'screen accurate' Alden color?

I'm between the Brown Chromex and the Dark Brown Rusticalf, myself but I can't decide from there. Thoughts?

mr_alex wrote:What do y'all consider to be a more 'screen accurate' Alden color?

I'm between the Brown Chromex and the Dark Brown Rusticalf, myself but I can't decide from there. Thoughts?

Neither of those are the real original leather that Ford wore. That would be the 405 with the "new, old" color that returned late last year. The "orangey" color they ran in 405s for a few years was off from the original color and I was happy to see Alden return to the original color again. Ford's were obviously broken in, beaten up, worked in, dirtied, scuffed, etc. to get them to look as they did on film. The were used and used a lot.

But with that said, if you don't want to go through that process of weathering them naturally and want something to look a more screen accurate brown at the get go, then I would say you can't go wrong with either the chromexcel or the rusticalf. They are both pretty similar colors even though they are not really similar leathers.

Thanks, that's a really valuable perspective and will help keep me from driving myself crazy choosing a color.

What ARE the difference between the leathers? (And do they really matter?) I've been cruising the website, and I see the different leathers listed (it seems there are 3?) But it doesn't really explain them. Anyone have a good read on this?

Also, I'm totally open to the idea that I'm overthinking this. It's just a $600+ purchase, so I figure Aldens are something I'll probably only buy once and then just resole for the rest of my life.

Thanks for the pro input!

mr_alex wrote:Thanks, that's a really valuable perspective and will help keep me from driving myself crazy choosing a color.

What ARE the difference between the leathers? (And do they really matter?) I've been cruising the website, and I see the different leathers listed (it seems there are 3?) But it doesn't really explain them. Anyone have a good read on this?

Also, I'm totally open to the idea that I'm overthinking this. It's just a $600+ purchase, so I figure Aldens are something I'll probably only buy once and then just resole for the rest of my life.

Thanks for the pro input!

405 is made in calf skin. The 403 is made in chromexcel leather.
I prefer the 405 because in my experience its harder wearing than the chromexcel. Chromexcel can be very wrinkly and can have odd "lines" in the leather unless you have a really good batch of leather. I find it also scratches/rubs very easily marking the leather. Do a google search of "Alden 403 worn" and you should be able to see what I mean.

Grozebear wrote:

Indiana Croft wrote:When you do venture out, just find a shoe store that can size you for orthapeidic shoes as these are what the Aldens are.
Mine are beat up from wear, but unfortunately Alden couldn’t of a repair.
One day I’ll get another pair.

Croft

Thanks - will do!

Ealdwine in Raleigh has a wide selection of Aldens. The owner, Matt Gray, has one of the largest personal collections of Alden boots/shoes in the world. The guy is super nice and an expert on Alden. He worked closely with the Alden folks to set up his store. You can read more about him here: https://www.stitchdown.com/brands/alden ... -cordovan/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. My wife and I visited his shop last fall and had a long conversation with him. (BTW, I was wearing my Bill Kelso Relic Hunter that day and Matt had to check it out. He was impressed with the high quality.) If you can get to his store, I highly recommend it. I'm just hoping they can survive the COVID-19 pandemic. A lot of retail shops are folding. Old North in Asheville is a recent casualty.

Carolina

I have a pair of 405's that are about 18 years old at this point, and I am only now thinking about having them sent in to be refurbished. I'm hard on footwear and I have never owned a pair of shoes like this. They are built like a tank. Expensive, but these boots will give you the years AND the mileage.

CarolinaIndy wrote:

Grozebear wrote:

Indiana Croft wrote:When you do venture out, just find a shoe store that can size you for orthapeidic shoes as these are what the Aldens are.
Mine are beat up from wear, but unfortunately Alden couldn’t of a repair.
One day I’ll get another pair.

Croft

Thanks - will do!

Ealdwine in Raleigh has a wide selection of Aldens. The owner, Matt Gray, has one of the largest personal collections of Alden boots/shoes in the world. The guy is super nice and an expert on Alden. He worked closely with the Alden folks to set up his store. You can read more about him here: https://www.stitchdown.com/brands/alden ... -cordovan/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. My wife and I visited his shop last fall and had a long conversation with him. (BTW, I was wearing my Bill Kelso Relic Hunter that day and Matt had to check it out. He was impressed with the high quality.) If you can get to his store, I highly recommend it. I'm just hoping they can survive the COVID-19 pandemic. A lot of retail shops are folding. Old North in Asheville is a recent casualty.

Carolina

I can definitely attest to Matt and Ealdwine being a top notch operation. I have an Alden Tanker in loden suede on pre-order, bought some Chups socks recently, and also just splurged on a close out Indy boot in reverse tobacco chamois (which might be my favorite leather to date, it's so awesome, seriously get a pair from someone) and double waterloc soles. I wish I could visit their shop some day, but ordering online and through Instagram DMs is very easy. FYI, Matt has 405s, 403s, and the brown rusticalf all in stock so if you hit him up he can answer anything you need. They also have many comparison pics on Instagram showing the different leathers side by side.

The 405s are brown calfskin. I own these as they are the original and I think best Indy boots for being, well "Indy".

The 403s are chromexcel, which is an oily pull up leather. Meaning if you scratch/scuff it you can just lick your finger and rub the spot and it mostly goes away as the oils move and spread throughout the leather. This leather is easy to maintain in my opinion with no polish necessary. The more scuffed, the better it looks sometimes. I have many chromexcel shoes and boots and I love the leather. I have boots, boat shoes, camp mocs, ranger mocs, beefroll penny loafers, tassel loafers, etc. made by Allen Edmonds, Alden, and Rancourt.

I don't have experience with the Rusticalf, but Matt or Alden Madison could answer that for you. From what I hear, it's a softer leather so maybe not as hard wearing as the other 2 choices, but I could be wrong.

Alden Madison in NYC is also great to deal with.

marker2037 wrote:

CarolinaIndy wrote:

Grozebear wrote:

Indiana Croft wrote:When you do venture out, just find a shoe store that can size you for orthapeidic shoes as these are what the Aldens are.
Mine are beat up from wear, but unfortunately Alden couldn’t of a repair.
One day I’ll get another pair.

Croft

Thanks - will do!

Ealdwine in Raleigh has a wide selection of Aldens. The owner, Matt Gray, has one of the largest personal collections of Alden boots/shoes in the world. The guy is super nice and an expert on Alden. He worked closely with the Alden folks to set up his store. You can read more about him here: https://www.stitchdown.com/brands/alden ... -cordovan/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. My wife and I visited his shop last fall and had a long conversation with him. (BTW, I was wearing my Bill Kelso Relic Hunter that day and Matt had to check it out. He was impressed with the high quality.) If you can get to his store, I highly recommend it. I'm just hoping they can survive the COVID-19 pandemic. A lot of retail shops are folding. Old North in Asheville is a recent casualty.

Carolina

I can definitely attest to Matt and Ealdwine being a top notch operation. I have an Alden Tanker in loden suede on pre-order, bought some Chups socks recently, and also just splurged on a close out Indy boot in reverse tobacco chamois (which might be my favorite leather to date, it's so awesome, seriously get a pair from someone) and double waterloc soles. I wish I could visit their shop some day, but ordering online and through Instagram DMs is very easy. FYI, Matt has 405s, 403s, and the brown rusticalf all in stock so if you hit him up he can answer anything you need. They also have many comparison pics on Instagram showing the different leathers side by side.

The 405s are brown calfskin. I own these as they are the original and I think best Indy boots for being, well "Indy".

The 403s are chromexcel, which is an oily pull up leather. Meaning if you scratch/scuff it you can just lick your finger and rub the spot and it mostly goes away as the oils move and spread throughout the leather. This leather is easy to maintain in my opinion with no polish necessary. The more scuffed, the better it looks sometimes. I have many chromexcel shoes and boots and I love the leather. I have boots, boat shoes, camp mocs, ranger mocs, beefroll penny loafers, tassel loafers, etc. made by Allen Edmonds, Alden, and Rancourt.

I don't have experience with the Rusticalf, but Matt or Alden Madison could answer that for you. From what I hear, it's a softer leather so maybe not as hard wearing as the other 2 choices, but I could be wrong.

Alden Madison in NYC is also great to deal with.

I DM'd Matt at Ealdwine this morning and told him about this forum. I encouraged him to join. He'd be a great asset for anyone with questions about Aldens or anyone looking for special makeup versions.

-Carolina

I might pick these boots next....if I could come up with the cash:

https://www.brickmortarseattle.com/high ... -indy-boot" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I like the outsoles for grip... but no speed hooks?

Yes, bummer. What I like is the color, sole and 360 welt, not just a 270.

I've never been a fan of speed hooks so these particularly appeal to me.


Regards,

Indiana Jeff

I hate how they can shred your laces... but eyelets all the way up boots is a pain.

Speed hooks are so much easier to deal with. I have a pair of boots without them and I have to unlace the top 2 or 3 holes to get them on.

CarolinaIndy wrote: Ealdwine in Raleigh has a wide selection of Aldens. The owner, Matt Gray, has one of the largest personal collections of Alden boots/shoes in the world. The guy is super nice and an expert on Alden. He worked closely with the Alden folks to set up his store. You can read more about him here: https://www.stitchdown.com/brands/alden ... -cordovan/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. My wife and I visited his shop last fall and had a long conversation with him. (BTW, I was wearing my Bill Kelso Relic Hunter that day and Matt had to check it out. He was impressed with the high quality.) If you can get to his store, I highly recommend it. I'm just hoping they can survive the COVID-19 pandemic. A lot of retail shops are folding. Old North in Asheville is a recent casualty.

Carolina

Excellent, thanks! Hopefully I will be able to venture out once things calm down a bit more. Keeping my fingers crossed for their business surviving through these tough times...