Club Obi Wan

So I've been wondering this for quite some time, and I've emailed Wested directly for the info to no avail. Basically, I'm curious to know the leather cut used to construct the jackets they produce.

I've seen that some jackets have a tag stating, "Genuine Real Leather," but the wording is a bit confusing. I'm not sure if it's stating that the piece is made using genuine leather as its cut, or if it's referring to the piece being a genuine hide of real leather, and simply clarifying it's authenticity.

As far as I've seen searching through this forum, there isn't a definitive answer posted. It's hard to think that they would stamp all of the different grain variations that are present from jacket to jacket and sometimes even the differences in grain in a single jacket. I feel as if they are using top grain but again, I'm not sure. I'm positive it isn't a full grain.

Anyone have a clear answer? I'm sorry if this was in fact answered before and I've missed it but I did try searching. If Wested does reply to my email I will be sure to update the post! Thank you in advance!

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. The jackets are made using real leather skins from animals, cow, lamb, goat, horse. They have various finishes on request.

There's a pdf guide on the website that details each leather hide.

Basically I'm asking what type of cut the jackets are made of, after the full grain hide is split. Their WordPress mentions top grain in passing in the form of a question but other than that their site doesn't offer any explanation as to the specific cut.

https://www.buckskinleather.com/leather ... -glossary/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The link gives a breif description of each leather cut. It's known that genuine leather tends to be the worst cut you can get, which concerned me when I saw that tag. That tag is worded in a way that can mean it is made from genuine leather, but can also be interpreted as being made from genuine authentic leather.

I was just wanting to know if anyone knew for certain what cut was used by Wested (top grain, full grain, genuine).

I don't 100% know for sure but the premium leathers that are £35-40 extra on a custom jacket are probably top grain, or full grain.

Their jacket prices are a bargain. The OTR jackets are just as nice as anything you'd find in a premium fashion store (good ones) selling leather jackets for a higher price.

Based on the link provided the leather used by Wested and most other reputable manufacturers would be the first on the list - "full grain" or "top grain."

The 5th item on the list where the words "genuine leather" appear is also called bonded leather which is not an animal skin, its basically leather dust stuck together with glue (like particle board.)

This is actually a great question. I suspect that many of their hides (such as their standard lambskin and goatskin) are corrected (embossed), but marketed as full grain. I don't know this for a fact at all, but that is my guess, seeing as how uniform the grain pattern has been on both my lambskin and goatskin jackets from Wested. It would be nice to get a definitive answer to this question.

Yeah, I too would love to know. I love my Raiders jacket and am sure it is of the upmost quality but it would be cool to know the specifics. I will email Wested again this week and see if I can get a definitive answer. I looked through their newest WordPress blog and although there are some new topics, this information unfortunately isn't there . I'll reply to this thread if Wested gets back to me!

I tend to suspect top grain: my experience has been that most places will tell you it’s full grain if they’re using full grain. But I’d be interested to hear what they say.

Top grain would be my assumption too. The only thing that had me questioning that is the tag that is present in some older jackets.

My shrunken lamb jacket has a 'genuine leather' tag in the lining. I suspect wested put them in across the board on their jackets just so the garment can be identified as leather, and cleaned accordingly.

In the UK, I don't think I've ever heard the terms top grain or full grain used. The genuine leather tag mean it's leather. I think the use of "genuine leather" on bonded leather in the EU wouldn't pass trading standards.

So what leather is used on Wested jackets, from the descriptions an educated guess is that the Authentic Brown lamb is probably top grain, it has a noticable top finish and the grain is very uniform, same goes for the regular cowhides. Hides like the novapelle are also sanded so I would say top grain.

The shrunk lamb doesn't appear to have a top coating and shows quite distinct diferences in grain so that may be full grain.

Most of the leathers will be splits on the flesh side to make them thin enough for the supple drape we are used to.

As most guides suggest unsplit full grain often is used for funiture, luggage and shoes as it has the weight and thickness. Clothing usually is top grain.

Kt Templar wrote:In the UK, I don't think I've ever heard the terms top grain or full grain used. The genuine leather tag mean it's leather. I think the use of "genuine leather" on bonded leather in the EU wouldn't pass trading standards.

Pretty sure top grain and full grain are industry jargon, and are common throughout the anglophone world. Aero Leather, also in the UK, uses it.

I assumed top grain was used for Wested's jackets. In the U.S. corners are cut with a lot of the leather jackets. I have a newer Wilson's that feels terrible, and that one is made from genuine leather (bonded and stamped). Wested hides feel much better, and I was almost certain they would be top grain as full grain would be too thick for a useable jacket. It was only the wording on the tag that made me question. Top grain jackets I've seen in department stores are priced pretty outrageous, so a top grain jacket at Wested's pricing is a steal!

SheriffGainz wrote:I assumed top grain was used for Wested's jackets. In the U.S. corners are cut with a lot of the leather jackets. I have a newer Wilson's that feels terrible, and that one is made from genuine leather (bonded and stamped). Wested hides feel much better, and I was almost certain they would be top grain as full grain would be too thick for a useable jacket. It was only the wording on the tag that made me question. Top grain jackets I've seen in department stores are priced pretty outrageous, so a top grain jacket at Wested's pricing is a steal!

pretty apparent you really don't get leather.

doesn't matter if its full grain or bonded leather. leather can be split to any thickness and still be full grain leather. Full grain just means that the grain has not been corrected by means which take out the natural grain (usually full of character from insect bites and the day to day roaming of the beast which the hide is taken from). leather feel has very little to do with whether its full grain or top grain or bonded leather. it has more to do with how its tanned and finished.
Full grain and Top grain are great jackets that will be very durable.

Mulceber wrote:

Kt Templar wrote:In the UK, I don't think I've ever heard the terms top grain or full grain used. The genuine leather tag mean it's leather. I think the use of "genuine leather" on bonded leather in the EU wouldn't pass trading standards.

Pretty sure top grain and full grain are industry jargon, and are common throughout the anglophone world. Aero Leather, also in the UK, uses it.

no,
that would be incorrect.
full grain means the leather has not been touched or modified to add a more consistent grain pattern as some top grain and corrected grain leather has.

If you see full grain and there is no trickery, you have yourself a very nice natural piece of leather in terms of appearance and thats about it. bug bites and all. you also have the assurance that no artificial embossing has been done to give it a more consistent appearance.

in terms of strength, look at it this way. If you shave off some of the top of the leather you are taking away some of the most durable parts of the leather, all for the sake of adding a less than natural grain imprint for appearance.

genuine leather is a red flag. you can believe what you want though. thats what keeps suckers buying the cheaper stuff.

"Feels terrible" may have been a bad way to describe the cheaper jacket. Although I don't understand how leather works completely, I'm familiar with different cuts used for different garments, as well as their quality and other characteristics. When referring to my cheap mall jacket, I meant it felt off as in it was thin, had repeating grain (indicative of stamping), and was pretty sure it was just what is referred to as "genuine leather," which is leftover hide that was left after the top grain was used. Saddleback has a great video on YouTube of the process (though they mostly use full grain).

https://buffalojackson.com/blogs/insigh ... of-leather" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This is another source that give clarity to what I was trying to relay. Again, I agree with other users that the tag is probably just to let costumers know the jacket isn't fake or artificial leather, but I was just asking out of curiosity about the specifics.

Have you considered posting a primer on leather, Jeremiah? Basic terminology, things to look for, stuff like that? Might be worth having something like that stickied.

Mulceber wrote:

Kt Templar wrote:In the UK, I don't think I've ever heard the terms top grain or full grain used. The genuine leather tag mean it's leather. I think the use of "genuine leather" on bonded leather in the EU wouldn't pass trading standards.

Pretty sure top grain and full grain are industry jargon, and are common throughout the anglophone world. Aero Leather, also in the UK, uses it.

Aero uses the term as it appeals to Ken's core buyers, American A2 fans. Lookup some of the leather dealers in the UK, they don't seem to use the terms.

http://www.aacrack.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.leathermerchants.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://walterreginald.co.uk/product-category/cow/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://almaleather.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Uh, several of those sites were using the term full grain, including aacrack, which used the term to describe leathers from tempesti, an Italian tannery.

Mulceber wrote:Uh, several of those sites were using the term full grain, including aacrack, which used the term to describe leathers from tempesti, an Italian tannery.

Really not in the way suggested, ie every leather marked full grain, top grain, etc... it's just marketing speak.

Then again I remember the official Indy jackets made with the bonded leather, so I understand why people are twitchy, IIRC those were marked as genuine leather.

Back in the day I remember a couple of people asked Peter if he'd make them a jacket using artificial leather because they were vegans... he politely declined... .

Anyway ... In Wested I Trust ... ...

Kt Templar wrote:Then again I remember the official Indy jackets made with the bonded leather, so I understand why people are twitchy, IIRC those were marked as genuine leather.

Just so we're clear, I don't think that Wested jackets are made of bonded leather at all. I think the most likely answer is that the majority of them are top grain, with the shrunken leather perhaps being full grain. And top grain makes a nice jacket. As a leather aficionado, I prefer the character of full grain, but top grain very much is the industry benchmark of quality (whether they use the term "top grain" or not), and I have no doubt that Wested meets that benchmark.

Is it fair to say that most leather products we see out there have a grain pattern stamped in? Only a specialty leather product will be using the natural full grain of the original hide? That's my assumption.

It’s mine as well.

I've never had Wested lamb (not my thing) but the goat and cowhide I've owned were perfectly fine hides.

I've been told by wested via email that all of their leather is full-grain except for suede leather.

Google this: corrected grain leather. Top grain leather. Split leather. Embossed leather. Bonded leather. Read about each one. They all mean totally different things. They are different products. The term genuine leather means many things. It can mean embossed leather. I don't think it can ever be used for bonded leather, though. I don't think bonded leather is used for garments. Books, yes. I think even purses. But not garments. I'd say most leather jackets are just split leather with a finish that has been embossed. Sometimes, not even that, just a painted on, plastic-like finish. I've seen vinyl with the same exact grain pattern as my old Wested horsehide from twelve years ago, so... The new stuff is nothing like that old stuff. Wested has come a long, long way with their leather selection. I can't say enough good things about the goat and I've had a lot of expensive leather jackets. I've seen a lot of really pricey jackets, too, the kind of prices I would never imagine spending on a jacket. I'll stick with my $300 goat.

Prodigal Son wrote:Google this: corrected grain leather. Top grain leather. Split leather. Embossed leather. Bonded leather. Read about each one. They all mean totally different things. They are different products. The term genuine leather means many things. It can mean embossed leather. I don't think it can ever be used for bonded leather, though. I don't think bonded leather is used for garments. Books, yes. I think even purses. But not garments. I'd say most leather jackets are just split leather with a finish that has been embossed. Sometimes, not even that, just a painted on, plastic-like finish. I've seen vinyl with the same exact grain pattern as my old Wested horsehide from twelve years ago, so... The new stuff is nothing like that old stuff. Wested has come a long, long way with their leather selection. I can't say enough good things about the goat and I've had a lot of expensive leather jackets. I've seen a lot of really pricey jackets, too, the kind of prices I would never imagine spending on a jacket. I'll stick with my $300 goat.

Yep, there's a range of differences between the leathers used on jackets and very few people understand the details. What we rely on is manufacturers who choose robust materials that will wear well for years. If Wested used poor leathers in the past it's probably because they were costumers and made clothes just for looks to last a few weeks of filming.