Club Obi Wan

Hi guys,

Just to inform you that I am no longer at hj.


I will update accordingly in the future.

Thanks for everything in the past.

Jack.

Wow, will you still be making hats Jack?

I'm sorry to hear this Jack, because I'm thrilled with the hat and the service I received from you. But I wish you even greater success in future endeavors.

Jackfyddle wrote:Wow, will you still be making hats Jack?

I will at some point. And then only in limited numbers and for a fair price.

Free from certain limitations I could offer more.

But that will be all in the new year.

Of course, if someone wishes me to make a hat I will. If demand is there.
But I am not in business at the moment. Like any other vendor I have to have certain things in place. In order to offer a seemless service.


Regards

Jack

Thanks for letting us know, Jack - I'm sorry to hear you're no longer in charge there. I know you'll give us such details as you can when you can, but for the moment, do you have a sense of whether the higher ups at HJ will leave in place the production model you created there? Will HJ continue to offer high quality hats, or are they going to return to making the type of hats they were creating before you joined the team?

I'm sorry to hear that this happened - I know you worked really hard to rehabilitate HJ's product and their reputation.

Hi there.

I am no longer in charge of production. Therefore I really can't say. Prior to leaving I made sure there was some bespoke stock made up. My assistant who I trained up is still there who does a good job. A great job. I trained her.

I am quite happy to answer questions on herbert-johnson history. I have plenty to share. But I cannot comment on behalf of hj any further. Conjecture or not.
I do want hj to go on.

Apologies.

As I said before. I set up the remit that I wanted to build a bespoke workshop at herbert-johnson. To work and bring on the fans and build a community. The fans were integril to this. As were many site admins and magazine writers and so on.

This I did to some success.

I'm happy with that.

Jack.

Thanks Jack, and understood. I'll look forward to reading what you have to share about HJ's history in the future.

My pleasure.


Jack.

Wishing you all the best, Jack!

Hi guys.

I've not been on here for a while and I've just had the opportunity to read through the threads.

A few things to point out.

Herbert Johnson was very late to this game. The market for bespoke indy fedoras had existed for some time already. A very competitive and sometimes heated market. The fact that the market existed means that there are varying vendors all competing for your Order. It is especially a more aggressive market if hatting is your online means of supporting yourself.
I new fairly early on that we were never going to make everyone happy, and especially that herbert-johnson had returned to the fore taking on the market at its own game.
This is why I tried to foster a translucency environment with other hatters. We had become suppliers to collectors and hat wearers alike.
A healthy respect for each other by expanding the industry.
Some don't ascribe to this philosophy.
I don't really care.
Far be it for me to comment on such things.


The thread explaining the discovery on the blocks will be posted on up and archived.

There are many members that I personally had contact with and gave advice on hatmaking. Suppliers techniques and so on.
I'm glad to see this working out for some. The world needs more hatters.

You want to know what the poet block is and a history of what hj was purchasing and how it effected the hats in the movies. Sure no problem. I'll write that up and post it. Let's get these myths debunked. So we can all enjoy the franchise more.

I am shocked however at some members and the motivational behind their comments.
I have no others agenda other than to be helpful.

Ask and I'll get back to you sooner or later.

Regards

Jack.

I wanted to chime in and buttress the points made with my own experience. My interactions with Jack in making the hat I recently ordered & received have been second to none in terms of his professionalism and customer service. In the end, thanks to Jack, I got the Raiders hat from HJ that I always wanted (my previous order from the 90's never lived up to what I was expecting).

All I can say, that in the final calculation, this site and this weird hobby is the better for having him participate regardless if he is inside or outside of HJ. Thanks Jack and looking forward to your participation and insights.

RideGuy

Appreciated,

Enjoy your hat.

Regards

Jack.

Due to messages I have been receiving.

Yes I have my blocks.

And of course if you are interested in having me, make you a hat.

Just let me know I'll answer any questions.

Rabbit 200

Beaver 250.

These prices are will not change.

Regards

Jack.

Jack@hatter wrote:Due to messages I have been receiving.

Yes I have my blocks.

And of course if you are interested in having me, make you a hat.

Just let me know I'll answer any questions.

Rabbit 200

Beaver 250.

These prices are will not change.

Regards

Jack.

Prices are in sterling.

Due to demand (again) I will be taking pre orders on rabbit and Beaver. I will also entertain custom felt options.
The blocks are my original blocks. Felt custom ordered Portuguese felt.

I will also make an announcement in the vendors section.

All materials will exact to my previous offerings with no less quality than before. Prices are minus shipping. Insurance on shipping remitted on request for exports.

Any further questions inbox me.

If I'm reading the conversion charts right, that would be $268.77 for rabbit and $355.97 in USD's for beaver using today's market.

Regards! Michaelson

Sounds about right - and quite reasonably priced, compared to other offerings. What will you charge for a reblock, Jack?

So why aren’t you with HJ anymore jack?

Where do we preorder?


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IndyFan89 wrote:Where do we preorder?


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Send me a pm with your size and specs.

Many thanks

Jack

Jeremiah wrote:So why aren’t you with HJ anymore jack?

We amicably parted ways due to some differences.

Regards

Jack

Hi Jack, I previously put myself down for a budget HJ beaver on another thread. I assume that line is now not happening so I should probably look to you instead right?

Awesome beard yellowduke. Hope you find the hat you are looking for.

yellowduke wrote:Hi Jack, I previously put myself down for a budget HJ beaver on another thread. I assume that line is now not happening so I should probably look to you instead right?

It's your choice really. I did try and put together an affordable offering but that is no longer my remit. I no longer work there therfore I cannot answer what direction they will go.

I'm sorry.

I no longer have the herbert Johnson brand. If you want to order from HJ go ahead. I left my assistant there whom I trained up. Who is very adequate.

Essentially these days I'm just another Hatter. After years of working for established Headwear companies in the UK for the first time I am considering going it alone. I offer what I've always offered. Attentive consultation on every hat, high quality materials, and my blocks and equipment and knowledge.

On my own I don't have the overheads as a large company. Hence my prices.

I'm a big fan of this community. I've worked closely with hundreds of members of the past year. It's been insightful and informative and enjoyable. And having access to information on the fedora means I can contribute to the knowledge of the hat or help fill in gaps or just give information on hatting and hatmaking.
However if you order a Beaver off me it is will be bespoke.

I hope all of this helps.

Jack.

Jack@hatter wrote:

yellowduke wrote:Hi Jack, I previously put myself down for a budget HJ beaver on another thread. I assume that line is now not happening so I should probably look to you instead right?

It's your choice really. I did try and put together an affordable offering but that is no longer my remit. I no longer work there therfore I cannot answer what direction they will go.

I'm sorry.

I no longer have the herbert Johnson brand. If you want to order from HJ go ahead. I left my assistant there whom I trained up. Who is very adequate.

Essentially these days I'm just another Hatter. After years of working for established Headwear companies in the UK for the first time I am considering going it alone. I offer what I've always offered. Attentive consultation on every hat, high quality materials, and my blocks and equipment and knowledge.

On my own I don't have the overheads as a large company. Hence my prices.

I'm a big fan of this community. I've worked closely with hundreds of members of the past year. It's been insightful and informative and enjoyable. And having access to information on the fedora means I can contribute to the knowledge of the hat or help fill in gaps or just give information on hatting and hatmaking.
However if you order a Beaver off me it is will be bespoke.

I hope all of this helps.

Jack.

Thanks Jack I'll be sending you an order in that case.

Jeremiah wrote:Awesome beard yellowduke. Hope you find the hat you are looking for.

Thanks Jeremiah!

Jack, you should go into business under the name Hat Jack Ltd. It's perfect!

whipwarrior wrote:Jack, you should go into business under the name Hat Jack Ltd. It's perfect!

Hmmmm

Jack

whipwarrior wrote:Jack, you should go into business under the name Hat Jack Ltd. It's perfect!

Love it!

Hi, Jack -

The block history will be interesting. My question has always been (and not that there is a clear answer) as to why HJ would transition away from that Raiders block. In meeting with Swales in 1986 he said they changed it up a bit but I was too much of a kid at the time to press him on it.

darthjones2 wrote:Hi, Jack -

The block history will be interesting. My question has always been (and not that there is a clear answer) as to why HJ would transition away from that Raiders block. In meeting with Swales in 1986 he said they changed it up a bit but I was too much of a kid at the time to press him on it.

The short answer is that right after Raiders hj was sold on. Another business with another model on supplies and manufacturers. Remember the hobby wasn't really up and running then. They changed suppliers. And then again for crusade. This is what swailes meant by "changed a little" this is why the Raiders shape was never reproduced. Modernization, new suppliers and so on.

yellowduke wrote:

Jeremiah wrote:Awesome beard yellowduke. Hope you find the hat you are looking for.

Thanks Jeremiah!

Ditto... Brilliant beard.

Jack

Hey, Jack -

Thanks!

Also, does the Raiders ribbon come slightly wider too? (around 1 3/4 inches). When I went to London in 1986 Mr. Swales said that I had a wider ribbon on my hat because of my larger head size. I did not notice until he pointed out that he'd done it. I might consider getting that wider version put on actually given the overall look.

darthjones2 wrote:Hey, Jack -

Thanks!

Also, does the Raiders ribbon come slightly wider too? (around 1 3/4 inches). When I went to London in 1986 Mr. Swales said that I had a wider ribbon on my hat because of my larger head size. I did not notice until he pointed out that he'd done it. I might consider getting that wider version put on actually given the overall look.

As standard the original poets came with a 50 mil ribbon. Due to the success of the films in later years this changed.

Totally understandable that swales would do this as a good hat is about proportion. Possibly a 40 mil ribbon in your case considering head circumference.

Regards jack

Jack@hatter wrote:

darthjones2 wrote:Hey, Jack -

Thanks!

Also, does the Raiders ribbon come slightly wider too? (around 1 3/4 inches). When I went to London in 1986 Mr. Swales said that I had a wider ribbon on my hat because of my larger head size. I did not notice until he pointed out that he'd done it. I might consider getting that wider version put on actually given the overall look.

As standard the original poets came with a 50 mil ribbon. Due to the success of the films in later years this changed.

Totally understandable that swales would do this as a good hat is about proportion. Possibly a 40 mil ribbon in your case considering head circumference.

Regards jack

And yes I have the ribbon.


Jack

Mulceber wrote:Sounds about right - and quite reasonably priced, compared to other offerings. What will you charge for a reblock, Jack?

Not much 50 bucks.

Regards jack

Hmm I may take you up on a reblock in the near future. Are you still based in the UK, or have you relocated elsewhere? Thanks, and best of luck in this next stage in your hatting career!

M

Mulceber wrote:Hmm I may take you up on a reblock in the near future. Are you still based in the UK, or have you relocated elsewhere? Thanks, and best of luck in this next stage in your hatting career!

M

I shall be still in the UK, moving house presently. I will try and work out a price where 50 dollars is inclusive of shipping. Or something. I'm sure I can work something out.

Many thanks for encouragement.

Jack

Jack@hatter wrote:

Mulceber wrote:Hmm I may take you up on a reblock in the near future. Are you still based in the UK, or have you relocated elsewhere? Thanks, and best of luck in this next stage in your hatting career!

M

I shall be still in the UK, moving house presently. I will try and work out a price where 50 dollars is inclusive of shipping. Or something. I'm sure I can work something out.

Many thanks for encouragement.

Jack

Hmm...let me know what you manage to cook up - I was thinking about a reblock before you left HJ, but the price (~£90, plus £60 pounds shipping there and another £60 back) deterred me.

Mulceber wrote:

Jack@hatter wrote:

Mulceber wrote:Hmm I may take you up on a reblock in the near future. Are you still based in the UK, or have you relocated elsewhere? Thanks, and best of luck in this next stage in your hatting career!

M

I shall be still in the UK, moving house presently. I will try and work out a price where 50 dollars is inclusive of shipping. Or something. I'm sure I can work something out.

Many thanks for encouragement.

Jack

Hmm...let me know what you manage to cook up - I was thinking about a reblock before you left HJ, but the price (~£90, plus £60 pounds shipping there and another £60 back) deterred me.

Oh I can definitely improve on that more than halve it at any rate. Especially shipping costs.



Regards

Jack

Jack@hatter wrote:

Mulceber wrote:

Jack@hatter wrote:

Mulceber wrote:Hmm I may take you up on a reblock in the near future. Are you still based in the UK, or have you relocated elsewhere? Thanks, and best of luck in this next stage in your hatting career!

M

I shall be still in the UK, moving house presently. I will try and work out a price where 50 dollars is inclusive of shipping. Or something. I'm sure I can work something out.

Many thanks for encouragement.

Jack

Hmm...let me know what you manage to cook up - I was thinking about a reblock before you left HJ, but the price (~£90, plus £60 pounds shipping there and another £60 back) deterred me.

Oh I can definitely improve on that more than halve it at any rate. Especially shipping costs.



Regards

Jack

Also due to the interest on this thread I'll get some more concise prices up.


Regards jack

Sounds great!

Interest PM sent

Somerset fox wrote:Interest PM sent

Recieved thank you

Jack

Hi guys.

Sorry it's taken me a while to get back you. My apologies.

Firstly I would like to thank you for all the positive response I have received. I have also had to think very hard about independently entering the "indy" hat business. It's a very competitive market to enter as there are some absolutely astounding hatters out there who are a credit to the trade and craft. Which in our industry is what we need. More hatters. To keep the industry going. Some people's first gateway hat, is a fedora from one of the many talented vendors.
I think that's great.
It keeps the felters and hat components businesses "in" business.

And that's important.
Also I have noticed over time that indy fans put their hats through far more punishment than the regular hat wearer. Adventure is punishing.

In the face of so much competition the only thing I can do is create a hat that performs to the very specific needs of this community.
If it's needed.
I have a mind to triple block every hat body. Blocking, pouncing, in triplicate to cure and stabilise the felt by felting it further by creating a more denser rigid body that retains its shape. Leaving more time between reblocks.
A durable and imperishable sweat. High quality but with a slight increase in weight to sustain more wear.
A spare liner
A spare length of ribbon plus bow.
Hopefully this will equip people for whatever happens within the first year of ownership.

And of course ultra fine pouncing finish.

On my part I'm in two minds. Although I rather like the idea of producing a range of 30s 50s inspired hats.
Prices would be 200 pounds for rabbit 250 for Beaver. Blocking 50 pounds (that's full reblock and iron)

Of course the blocks are in three size heights to accommodate Shape and body.

As always I am open to any questions and feedback.

If successful I forsee three to four months to implement.

Kind regards

Jack.

Jack@hatter wrote:Hi guys.

Sorry it's taken me a while to get back you. My apologies.

Firstly I would like to thank you for all the positive response I have received. I have also had to think very hard about independently entering the "indy" hat business. It's a very competitive market to enter as there are some absolutely astounding hatters out there who are a credit to the trade and craft. Which in our industry is what we need. More hatters. To keep the industry going. Some people's first gateway hat, is a fedora from one of the many talented vendors.
I think that's great.
It keeps the felters and hat components businesses "in" business.

And that's important.
Also I have noticed over time that indy fans put their hats through far more punishment than the regular hat wearer. Adventure is punishing.

In the face of so much competition the only thing I can do is create a hat that performs to the very specific needs of this community.
If it's needed.
I have a mind to triple block every hat body. Blocking, pouncing, in triplicate to cure and stabilise the felt by felting it further by creating a more denser rigid body that retains its shape. Leaving more time between reblocks.
A durable and imperishable sweat. High quality but with a slight increase in weight to sustain more wear.
A spare liner
A spare length of ribbon plus bow.
Hopefully this will equip people for whatever happens within the first year of ownership.

And of course ultra fine pouncing finish.

On my part I'm in two minds. Although I rather like the idea of producing a range of 30s 50s inspired hats.
Prices would be 200 pounds for rabbit 250 for Beaver. Blocking 50 pounds (that's full reblock and iron)

Of course the blocks are in three size heights to accommodate Shape and body.

As always I am open to any questions and feedback.

If successful I forsee three to four months to implement.

Kind regards

Jack.

Jack that sounds excellent. Wishing you the best and look forward to seeing your work!

You could barrel age one too.

Or failing that age it with port.

Every time you reblock your hat, if done correctly, the body is heated and steamed over the block as we all know. Shrinking is caused by microscopic air pockets in the felt. These contract and pull (for want of a better word) the fur fibres. Triple blocking, and more importantly ironing the hot fibres limit these pockets. Most hats are only blocked once and this is fine. But the gear head will abuse and use their hat far more than any regular hat wearer, hence the extra process.
The trick is in the ironing and the techniques used to further felt the fibres to knit closer together creating a denser body.
Shellac plays its part when heated to bind the fibres. Ironing lowers the raised hairs against the body so that that when pounced you achieve a smoother and more finer finish. This repeated multiple times creates a denser body.
I order my felt from Portugal. I only ever use their premium grade of rabbit. There are five grades. I only use the best with the finer fibres and denser finish. Plus a consideration to weight and treatment.

A complete drenching will ruin a hat. Soaked in naphtha this is reduced. But even naphtha will deterioration over time and need more applications.

This process is so normal to adverse weather won't affect the hat greatly. Longevity is the key here. And it's always interesting to use newer techniques in a heritage industry.


Opinions?

Appreciated.

Jack.

Hi Jack,

It's good to see you're planning! Here are my thoughts in no particular order. Take them for the 2 cents they're worth.

-I'm not sure how effective double or triple blocking the hat would be, but you know the mechanics of hatting better than I do. What you say makes sense, at any rate. It might be good to do a test run. Maybe triple block one hat and single block another, and then see how much water it takes to taper them?

-The extra liner is a nice touch, as those things get dirty quickly if you're really abusing them.

-I'm not sure how useful the replacement ribbon would be: any situation that would require replacing the ribbon (as opposed to just fixing a busted seam) would probably demand a reblock at the very least (maybe even a replacement of the hat altogether!). It seems to me that replacement ribbon would just end up sitting in the box. Either that or the customer would put it on another hat so they could have two hats with screen accurate ribbons.

-If you're looking to make hats that will really stand up to abuse, how about hand-sewn sweatbands? Regular sewing machines perforate the hat, weakening the felt body, and the stitch that a sewing machine is capable of doing will completely unravel if the thread breaks. By hand-sewing your avoid the felt perforation issue, and you can use a stitch that won't unravel if the thread breaks.

Just my thoughts - hope they can be of some use.

Mulceber wrote:Hi Jack,

It's good to see you're planning! Here are my thoughts in no particular order. Take them for the 2 cents they're worth.

-I'm not sure how effective double or triple blocking the hat would be, but you know the mechanics of hatting better than I do. What you say makes sense, at any rate. It might be good to do a test run. Maybe triple block one hat and single block another, and then see how much water it takes to taper them?

-The extra liner is a nice touch, as those things get dirty quickly if you're really abusing them.

-I'm not sure how useful the replacement ribbon would be: any situation that would require replacing the ribbon (as opposed to just fixing a busted seam) would probably demand a reblock at the very least (maybe even a replacement of the hat altogether!). It seems to me that replacement ribbon would just end up sitting in the box. Either that or the customer would put it on another hat so they could have two hats with screen accurate ribbons.

-If you're looking to make hats that will really stand up to abuse, how about hand-sewn sweatbands? Regular sewing machines perforate the hat, weakening the felt body, and the stitch that a sewing machine is capable of doing will completely unravel if the thread breaks. By hand-sewing your avoid the felt perforation issue, and you can use a stitch that won't unravel if the thread breaks.

Just my thoughts - hope they can be of some use.

Good points.

I have already been experimenting with the process for some time. It has yielded fairly good results. The key is in the other order ironing. As with ribbon, well it's just a client service option.
As for hand stitched sweats all of these hats will be completely hand made, hopefully with a three week lead time.
You can use a back stitch on sewing sweats. This keeps the tension on every single stitch. However I prefer a hand lock stitch.

Many thanks for your input and ten cents.

Appreciated.



Jack