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Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 3:12 am
by lukedlb
You are my tailor about to take all my measurements for my new indy jacket. Regardless of which type of jacket, please tell me how I should begin. After seeing some of the measurements requested by S & J, I would appreciate it highly if someone could contribute where and how to take the measurements.
Many thanks,

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 1:32 pm
by davidafshar
In my experience this sort of thing is very difficult to get across over the Internet. If it's at all an option, I would highly recommend going to a tailor to have your measurements taken. Find someone reputable, not just the local dry cleaner who does the occasional alteration. Knowing exactly where to put the tape, how tight to pull, etc. is something of an art. You might even try going to two or three places and taking the average of the numbers you're given. Most tailors will be happy to do this for free, though I usually tip them for their service. Even if they charge you a nominal amount, it will be well worth it. (I realize this isn't an option for everyone, such as folks in very small towns or rural areas.) If all else fails, I'd contact S&J and ask them for assistance. I've not dealt with them personally, but everyone says they are top-notch when it comes to customer service.

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 4:05 pm
by Texan Scott
use his diagram and a jacket that fits you well. How do you want it to fit?

Critical: yoke, shoulder seams (same both sides), sleeve, chest, back length.

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 5:48 am
by CM
Yep, it's easy to do. Work out how long the sleeves and back length should be based on a denim or similar jacket style that fits you the way you like. You simply copy those measurements.

Getting the shoulders to be film accurate is worth thinking about. I generally need 19 inch shoulders across (as a 42) but the Indy jacket is oversized and has floppy shoulders so I would add 1.5 inches.

To measure a jacket you lie it flat on a table or the floor.

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 6:12 am
by lukedlb
Texan Scott wrote:use his diagram and a jacket that fits you well. How do you want it to fit?

Critical: yoke, shoulder seams (same both sides), sleeve, chest, back length.
sorry, which diagram?

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:57 am
by Texan Scott
https://www.google.com/search?q=jacket+ ... WPJ1o-U_gM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;:

Here is a good place to start. also the top shoulder seam measurement will be the same on both sides.

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 10:56 pm
by davidafshar
You folks are braver than me when it comes to taking measurements off the body, though I admit that I haven't had a ton of experience.

That said, measuring a jacket you already own is something I meant to recommend. It's relatively fool-proof and would give whoever is making you a similar garment (S&J making a jacket in this case) an even better set of numbers to work off. Or so I would imagine.

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 7:31 am
by Tibor
Just a caution about measuring a jacket you own; unless it's the same cut and style, the fit can vary widely depending on the size and position of the arm holes, the construction of the collar, etc. It gives you a general idea, but that's probably all.

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:33 am
by Texan Scott
reference points like the sleeve seam to cuff etc

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 4:58 am
by CM
Tibor wrote:Just a caution about measuring a jacket you own; unless it's the same cut and style, the fit can vary widely depending on the size and position of the arm holes, the construction of the collar, etc. It gives you a general idea, but that's probably all.

I think it is much more than a general idea - sleeve length, chest and back length are the ones you can readily establish - yes you do need a similar style jacket but collar and arm holes won't impact. This has never failed me. I now know in any leather jacket I need 26 sleeves, 26-27 back, 19 shoulders (21 for Indy) and 23 to 24 pit to pit. Most measurements can be within half an inch, even an inch. I have bought dozens of jackets just knowing this.

Where it can get hard is when you are very overweight or very underweight or very short. :TOH:

Re: Taking 'every' measurement for the perfect jacket

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 3:25 pm
by distantpeople
Perhaps this is helpful...

http://www.billkelsomfg.com/clients/BIL ... idance.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;