Club Obi Wan

Hi there. Been many years since I've posted here - about 10-12 years ago I bought a lamb Raiders Wested from @Ken. I still have it! It was my constant companion in High School. It is tagged a Size 38.

Since then my weight has changed a lot and I'm probably 20 lbs under where I was in High School, maybe more. I'm also relatively lean - 39" chest and 31" waist, height 5'6". The Wested is pretty big on me and not all that flattering.

I'm looking to get the best quality Indy Jacket I can, also doing it in lamb since I live in Texas and because I am not using it for actual adventuring. More like adventuring to meetings, etc. I don't care about screen accuracy per se and my dressing-as-Indy days are also 10-12 years behind me, but I like the jacket still (and have Alden 403s that get regular wear). This lead me to G&B, but I am unclear on the actual fit since there are no real measurements on the website. Are these cut more generously or are they cut more slim like actual military garments often are? With vanity sizing in the RTW space, it isn't uncommon for me to be wearing a 36S, but 38S is often a good choice for me in brands that run slimmer. The only time I've ever bought actual 40S is when dressing in milsurp stuff which 40 means 40.

I'd like to pull the trigger and I did hit up the "ask a question" button on the website, but thought I'd ask here too.

That 38 Wested might be up for grabs if someone wants it!

I normally wear a 40 regular. About 5 years ago, I owned a G&B Expedition in size 42. As you can see, the shoulders were a bit wide, but most people would say that's the way an Indy jacket is supposed to fit. The length of the sleeves was exactly right for me, but if the shoulders were narrower, the sleeves would have been too short. The fit in the body was nowhere close to "trim", "military" or any other term that implies a snug fit, on the contrary I found it to be pretty roomy and non-restrictive and slightly larger than my US Wings size "M", pretty much what one would expect from a 42. The quality of construction was excellent.

http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ursac ... y.jpg.html

They are often describe by leather jacket collectors as larger sized - esp on the Fedora lounge or the VLJF. This of course depends on what you consider correct sizing. Older... larger men tend to like larger fitting items which they might view as true to size. If you want military trim you'll need a smaller size than what you normally wear. Not usually an issue with the indy.

Take a size 42 Expedition. The pit to pit on mine is 24.5 inches. Compared to other manufacturer's 42s that is about 2 inches wider. My Schotts in size 42 are 22.5 inches. My Brooks size 42 is 22 inches my 3 Johnson Leathers 42 are all 23 inches inches and my 3 Aero 42s are 22.5 inches pit to pit.

But, of course the Indy is a slightly baggy pattern so it works for it to be larger. But it isn't just G&B Indy's that are large, the entry level A2's are still larger - 25 pit to pit. The G&B WEP jacket in a 42 is a massive 25.5 inches pit to pit (a size 48 in other makes).

It's always best to understand your ideal pit to pit, sleeve and back length when buying a jacket.

In general terms a 'normal' cut allowance for a jacket is 4". So in a 42 jacket the pit-to-pit would measure 23" [(42+4)/2]. Slim fitting or military cut jackets tend to have a 2" allowance so in a 42 the pit-to-pit would be 22" [(42+2)/2]. Motorcycle and many fashion leather jackets tend to be cut more slim fitting.

As a few data points for you, I have both a Wested and G&B in 42. The Wested measures pit-to-pit 24" and the G&B measures 23.5". However, the Wested waist/bottom hem measures 22" while the G&B is 21" and the measure across the back yoke seam on the Wested is 19.5" while the G&B is 18.5". All this added together gives the G&B a more fitted feel, but not as fitted as other leather jackets I have and still very comfortable to wear. I would say it fits true to size as a 42 since I think my Wested is cut on the large size for a 42.

To CM's point, knowing your pit-to-pit tolerance is very helpful. I know I can't fit comfortably into anything smaller than 22". But for me I've also found the back shoulder-to-shoulder measurement to be a huge factor. Too narrow across the shoulders and the jacket binds up.


Regards,

Indiana Jeff

I bought a G&B Expedition on EBay in size 46 and it was more form fitting but the sleeves were too short. Sold it and bought a 48 Tall directly from G&B. Sleeve length is perfect and the fit is good. Slightly a little large in the chest but I like my jackets to be loose fitting but not baggy. I normally wear a 2XL in most other coats and a 50 in Wested jackets.

As a fellow "lean guy", I recommend getting the same size and length that you wear in a blazer or suit coat. The Expo has a Raiders cut with slightly roomy and dropped shoulders. It's also designed to be worn off of the neck, otherwise the back panel will pop out on you versus laying flat on your back.

I normally wear a 42R, and originally made the mistake of ordering the G&B in a 44R as I do with military jackets. The 44R was noticeably oversized and sloppy-looking.

Hope this helps.

I agree with Cajukraut - go with what you wear for a blazer or suit.

I went with my blazer size last year for Christmas and got a great jacket that fits meet superbly. But just to assuage your fears - if you are ordering your Expedition through G&B directly, they will happily accept returns and work with you until you get the jacket fit you want. I called them and specifically asked if I could return or exchange it if it was too small or too large and they said that was not a problem at all. Luckily I didn't have to, but it made it much easier to pull the trigger on the purchase knowing they would work with me to get the fit I wanted.

Good luck - it's a great jacket!

I have been to the Gibson and Barnes store in El Cajon several times and even back before they were G & B. I tried on every leather jacket model they had in the store and found them to be roomier to the point I dropped down to size 40 for most of their leathers even though I wear a 42. Of course that depends on how you like your jacket to fit. I had them build me a cloth Stargate SG-1 jacket based on a military G-8 WEP in Medium Regular and it fits like a large. Have a tailor take your measurements and submit those if you place an order. They used to build custom jackets, but I'm sure that is a thing of the past.

Here is their sizing page: http://www.gibson-barnes.com/page-29578 ... t-Fit.html

For those of you in the know, what if you're in between sizes? I'm a 41" chest, and I'm wondering if the 40R is roomy enough for me, or should I go with the 42R? And I'm not only wondering about how it'll fit of the rack, but also after it gets wet and possibly shrinks a smidge. Anyone have any comments on this?

Tyrloch wrote:For those of you in the know, what if you're in between sizes? I'm a 41" chest, and I'm wondering if the 40R is roomy enough for me, or should I go with the 42R? And I'm not only wondering about how it'll fit of the rack, but also after it gets wet and possibly shrinks a smidge. Anyone have any comments on this?

My call would be to round up a size, but contacting G&B will probably be your best bet for that info. I doubt that chrome-tanned goat would shrink at all after a rainstorm. Not sure about a wash & dry cycle though.

I was mainly concerned about it getting wet naturally and shrinking. I was only goig to resort to the hot water and dryer treatment if it turned out to be slightly large on me...

Gotcha.

Just keep in mind that G&B's goatskin has different characteristics than veg-tanned lambskin. Goat wears like iron, and has a stiff "pleathery" look and feel before it gets broken in. When I say broken in, I really just mean more wrinkles, and maybe a little more grain. It never really acquires the aged appearance that veg-tanned leathers do. I expedited my break-in (nod to Tundraider) by stuffing it into a pillowcase then sleeping with it, actually wearing it to bed, and storing it rolled up different ways. I have no idea how washing and drying it will turn out.

All that said, you'll never regret owning one.

Tyrloch wrote:For those of you in the know, what if you're in between sizes? I'm a 41" chest, and I'm wondering if the 40R is roomy enough for me, or should I go with the 42R? And I'm not only wondering about how it'll fit of the rack, but also after it gets wet and possibly shrinks a smidge. Anyone have any comments on this?

I have 41 chest- the 40 fits fine but the 42 is baggier and maybe more film accurate - remember the jacket is cut roomy. If I were buying any other G&B jacket I would go down a size like others have done. If a jacket is a size 42, it does not measure 42 inches, it generally will have extra 4 inches so that you can wear it.

Traditionally a 42 measures 22 inches pit to pit under the armpits but many American sizes are cut much larger to cater for people who are not their correct fighting weight -25 inches for a 42 is not unusual.