Club Obi Wan

Hi everyone, first I'd just like to say I like the way my Wested hero fits, and the way it hangs on my body.
I'd love to get a Relic hunter, but man.

But I was kicking the idea of another jacket, which I've been talking to S&J

But when the say off the shoulder, are you talking about the shoulder seam and where it is in relation to how far below the shoulder it is, what is the standard (hate saying that) location of the seam below the shoulder.

See the below pic, you can see where the seam is, is this to low, I'm curious, that's all. It won't change how I feel about the jacket.

Your thoughts, and if any one has a diagram of what you refer to the yoke, and other definitions.
[URL=http://s193.photobucket.com/user/i ... .jpg[/img][/url]

Croft

Personally, I don't think the shoulder seam should be down on the arm at all. When Indy zips up, the shoulders are pretty close to right where they should be. It's when it's unzipped and open that it slides down off the shoulders. even when partially zipped, the leather was so soft that it would open wide at the neck and the shoulders would move down.

I'd say yours looks an inch too much, but it may be about right when zipped.

I would call that "off the shoulder," and I think it works well on the Indy style jacket. In the case if that pic, it looks just right to me.

Like many features on clothing, the person wearing them has a lot to do with if they look right, and how much is too much, etc. What looks right on one person won't on somebody else.

No Croft, The say of ''Off the shoulder'' is the top shoulder seam and yoke dropping backwards, meaning ''of the shoulder'', meanning dropping towards the butt. Hence why the back length is cut shorter then the front of the jacket. The ''weird quirk'' of the Raiders jacket. So, when the jacket is ''off the shoulder'' it makes the jacket equal in the front and back.

Catch my drift?

I agree with Holt. Generally the term refers to the cut drawing back the shoulders, but I also find most makers are over-exaggerating the "shoulder droop" effect these days.

Tibor wrote:....... but I also find most makers are over-exaggerating the "shoulder droop" effect these days.

Amen, Brother!

Regards! Michaelson

Croft, first of all, incredible hat! I have never seen such a good Downcrowner in my life!

Better hang on to that one...or send it to me!

Diego makes a really good Raiders likeness, complete with most all the quirks of the original, as does a few others. And there are eccentricities to the pattern that OTR jackets do not have.

OTR jackets typically fit with the top shoulder seams lying about mid portion on the top of the shoulder, centered on the top of the shoulder. The joinder of the shoulder/sleeve seam usually fit right at the break of the shoulder and the upper arm/socket. That is basically a correct fitting jacket and the reasons why they are more comfortable.

Well, the Raiders jacket is different from that....same only different. A Raiders/Relic Hunter/Cazadora/Hero jacket's top shoulder seams and top sleeve seams are offset from a typical OTR jacket. Top shoulder seams will not fall directly on top of the shoulder, but to the back (off the natural center of the top of the shoulder). The sleeve seams will not fit at the natural break on the shoulder, but below it possibly 1" - 2". Combine that with the feeling of the jacket's collar seemingly wanting to slide off your back, and you have quite the SA jacket.....

Some of the quirks are more pronounced than others, and in this order, from most to least, based on my experience: Hero/Cazadora/Relic Hunter.

Get ready for the quirks if you want an entirely SA jacket.

Yoke. The panel above the back panel. It is supposed to be slender in width, based on various screen grabs including the cobra scene. It is my understanding that the yoke was meant cover the curvature of the top portion of the back, shoulder blades, etc., hence the reason why the back panel is not entirely one piece.

I hope we have answered your questions, Senor!

The remedy to this would be the more correct fitting, RoLA pattern, and spec it yourself.

Tibor wrote:I agree with Holt. Generally the term refers to the cut drawing back the shoulders, but I also find most makers are over-exaggerating the "shoulder droop" effect these days.

Agreed! I feel the same way about the Raiders hat details. So many HUGE over exaggerated turns and crowns. Yikes!

Michaelson wrote:

Tibor wrote:....... but I also find most makers are over-exaggerating the "shoulder droop" effect these days.

Amen, Brother!

Regards! Michaelson

I don't know how anybody knows what sleeve length to order any more, depends on the amount of "droop"

Thank you everyone, it's a little more clearer, I am just like every other time ordering a jacket, I want to give all the dimensions and not chew my finger nails till it shows up in hopes I got it right, I think this is the main reason I can't pull the trigger on a Kelso, 800. bucks is a lot, then get it wrong.
I'll probably drive him nuts, but in a good way.

Croft, first of all, incredible hat! I have never seen such a good Downcrowner in my life!

Not sure what a downcrowner refers other than the way the brim hangs down.
But this is my pride and joy (And Johns, he loves this lid) Its of course a ABL
And you should see it now, this hat will make any Indy jacket POP.

Back on topic, though, so when I start giving dimensions, I'll take tons of pic's and see what they think, I'll show where I'm taking them, big concern is bringing the shoulder seam up some, and still get the sleeve length to still fall on the first knuckle of the thumb.
I'll zip it up and see where it falls then, never thought of this.

Croft