Club Obi Wan

Hi All

Ive been lurking here the last few weeks researching for an Indy costume to put together and Im finally posting

Im just at the ordering stage for a custom Wested Raiders jacket (short arms big boned!) and Im confused over whether I need to add gussets?

Here's my specs

Skin
Shrunken Lambskin

Chest Size
44

Back Length
26.5"

Sleeve Length
23.5"

Lining
Cotton Body & Satin Sleeves (Recommended)

Side Straps
Buckles + X-box stitch

Extra Inside Pocket?
No

Gussets

No Yes (+£5.00)

With it being a bigger arm than the Hero will I need the gussets to give a bit of room if Im wearing it for driving etc and raising my arms?

Im 5' 7" and big built so was wondering what others have done with their order?

thanks in advance Stu (UK)

Personal opinion? Yes, absolutely.

Regard! Michaelson

hi, have you considered going for the last crusade/crystal skull pattern ? they have a slightly more generous cut , lower arm hole placement allowing for a more roomier fit. and yes go for the gussets too. good luck in your quest !

The Rola is also quite high cut in the armpits. If you need a bit more room there I suggest their LC/CS cut too - plus gussets.

Michaelson wrote:Personal opinion? Yes, absolutely.

Regard! Michaelson

Completely agree.

Will the jacket be used for costuming and be in nothing but pictures, or do you plan to put it to hard use? If the second one, an even bigger YES to gussets. My Wested has them and they are a Godsend.

Yes.

Thanks for the great advice everyone. Looks like the gusset is a YES!

Whilst I'm on the larger side I do like my jackets fitted so I thought the RoLA would be a good halfway house between the Hero and a LC jacket. That and Raiders is my favourite film

ChrisMD wrote:

Michaelson wrote:Personal opinion? Yes, absolutely.

Regard! Michaelson

Completely agree.

Will the jacket be used for costuming and be in nothing but pictures, or do you plan to put it to hard use? If the second one, an even bigger YES to gussets. My Wested has them and they are a Godsend.

It will be used day to day and for the odd party. We've got a fancy dress coming up in July as as Im 40 this weekend I thought it time I finally got an Indy jacket which is what started the ball rolling. Ive wanted one since I was a kid and seeing them on sale in Hollywood studios several years ago made me want one even more!

Ive ended up getting the shirt and trousers/bag too and am getting a holster and belt from makeitjones.

I just need to find a decent bullwhip in the UK along with a correct fedora to replace the wool one I bought at Disney all those years ago

Onstat,
If I can offer up one bit of advice, I'd say double-check the back length by comparing a sport coat or some other jacket. At worst, tape paper together to get the length you are considering and then have someone tape/hold it to your back and see where it hits.

You said you'll be wearing this for everyday use and a little costuming, so maybe you want the length you mentioned. I'm similar in height, and wear my jackets for everyday use as well, but I don't think I have a jacket with a back length beyond 24-24.5 inches.

I see you're in the UK, is there any way to go to Wested and try on beforehand?

And yes, gussets.

Good luck,
Mountaineer

Mountaineer wrote:Onstat,
If I can offer up one bit of advice, I'd say double-check the back length by comparing a sport coat or some other jacket. At worst, tape paper together to get the length you are considering and then have someone tape/hold it to your back and see where it hits.

You said you'll be wearing this for everyday use and a little costuming, so maybe you want the length you mentioned. I'm similar in height, and wear my jackets for everyday use as well, but I don't think I have a jacket with a back length beyond 24-24.5 inches.

I see you're in the UK, is there any way to go to Wested and try on beforehand?

And yes, gussets.

Good luck,
Mountaineer

Thanks Mountaineer.

I have ordered it today but Ill double check tonight with a tape. A fitted ben sherman jacket Ive got that comes to the top of my back pockets is 27" but could I check, is it measured from where the collar is sewn onto the back pane to the bottoml?

I would have paid them a visit but Im in North Wales so its a fair distance and I dont get down to London that much.

I went with gussets in the end too after the great advice here.

All good advice... One more thing, for Westeds, when comparing the Hero pattern and the ROLA pattern, the Hero falls back off the shoulders and I take about a 24-24.5 back length. With the ROLA, I generally take a 25.5-26 back length as more of that length rides up to your neck. I'm about 6'1" for reference.

Definitely go for a visit if you're able. Call ahead and see when Peter will be there and let them know when you are coming. Peter is very generous with his time and expertise and will sort things out for you.

Mountaineer wrote:Onstat,
If I can offer up one bit of advice, I'd say double-check the back length by comparing a sport coat or some other jacket. At worst, tape paper together to get the length you are considering and then have someone tape/hold it to your back and see where it hits.

You said you'll be wearing this for everyday use and a little costuming, so maybe you want the length you mentioned. I'm similar in height, and wear my jackets for everyday use as well, but I don't think I have a jacket with a back length beyond 24-24.5 inches.

I see you're in the UK, is there any way to go to Wested and try on beforehand?

And yes, gussets.

Good luck,
Mountaineer

People tend to forget that the length should be adjusted accordingly based off their torso length. Maybe Onstat has a long torso and requires that extra length.

Rikimaru wrote: People tend to forget that the length should be adjusted accordingly based off their torso length. Maybe Onstat has a long torso and requires that extra length.

Exactly why I advised him to double check. I never bought the original Westeds because they told me it had a 26" length back. On me that's almost sport coat length. However their Hero patterns work great at 24-24.5 inches. Maybe the longer length would have worked for me, because of the pattern differences, but it was too expensive a risk for me to take.

Onstat: FWIW, I've always measured the backs from the bottom stitch of the collar stand, where it is joined to the back, to the jacket's bottom.

I think I may be long bodied and short legged!!

I just re measured everything. My fitted ben sherman is 26" from collar stich to bottom and this comes to the top of my jeans pockets.

Im going to give them a ring and see about knocking an inch off to make it 25.5" as I prefer jackets to cover my belt when Im wearing them.

what do you think or should I post a photo?

My experience is that half an inch to an inch doesn't make a huge difference unless the jacket is way too short or long already. Most of my short leathers range from 25.5 inches to 27 inches and there isn't all that much difference in the look.

Thanks again for all the comments.

I ended up going with 25.5" back length so shaved an inch off the original choice. Ill stick some pics up when it arrives for info on the fit.

The jacket goes into production today so looking forward to getting it in a few weeks My other Wested parcel also arrived yesterday too. A perfect fitting large shirt, mk7 gas bag and 40" trousers. Interestingly with the trousers Ive never been in a 40" but it seems I always was (maybe not always!)

After advice from Wested that their trousers are an exact measurement I measured my waist to 40" but all of the my jeans are 36" and trousers 38"! Apparently they are "conservative" with their sizes, especially Levis.

Now onto a whip and fedora to replace my Disney bought one from years ago!