General hat question regarding width and look on small heads

In-depth discussion of the Fedora of Indiana Jones and all other hats appearing in the Indiana Jones movies

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jinxed
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General hat question regarding width and look on small heads

Post by jinxed »

I am desperately trying to talk myself into a fedora by reading and re-reading many of the posts here. There is a daunting amount of info to absorb to put it lightly.

Although one of the concerns I have is width in regards to fit. I haven't seen much mention of it despite searching. Apparently I have a "european" noggin that is oval. I've never owned a proper wool / fur hat, but over the years have tried on several in my size and every one of them seems to squeeze my head front to back, but I can stick a finger in the sides. Although completely rigid, I've had the same issue with motorcycle and bicycle helmets and have to stick with a couple particular brands due to a closer fitting shape.

So with little experience wearing a fedora of this caliper, and no way to try one on in person, are they supposed to fit like that? The only advice I've gotten regarding hat fit was from an exclusive cowboy hat maker I knew years ago. He was trying to sell me on a hat and told me they are supposed to fit tight to keep it on your head. I couldn't keep one on for 10 minutes without a headache. I passed it off as nonsense and obviously never bought one.

I realize felt is pliable and can only guess they will take on the shape of the wearer in time, but should it be tight to start?

I'm also curious...do the Indy fedoras look like clown hats on small heads? I'm basically @ 56.5 so right in between most makers 7 - 7 1/8. Best to go up or down? And also, do the dimensions of the hat scale with size?
Last edited by jinxed on Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by Heyjude7 »

i think its what feels comfortable to you. you dont wanna wear a fed thats gonna give you a headache.
i am between sizes like you so i went up to a 56. it is a little big but all in all it fits. if i get a high and tight haircut.. its loose.. if my hair is longer then its good.
also you can always add cork, foam, paper towels under the sweatband to make it fit a little more snug 8)
jinxed
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by jinxed »

Ha! I wondered about the haircut thing too. Never considered shimming the band from the inside.
Heyjude7 wrote:i think its what feels comfortable to you. you dont wanna wear a fed thats gonna give you a headache.
i am between sizes like you so i went up to a 56. it is a little big but all in all it fits. if i get a high and tight haircut.. its loose.. if my hair is longer then its good.
also you can always add cork, foam, paper towels under the sweatband to make it fit a little more snug 8)
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by jlee562 »

If you can stick a finger in on the sides, you have what matters would refer to as a "long oval" head. Back in the day, this was offered as an option by many manufacturers (I think Resistol still does), but it's fairly uncommon these days. There are definitely ways to help the hat conform to your head (including, you know, wearing it). I don't know if there's a screen accurate long oval Indy block, but you should be able to find someone who can either make a custom long oval lid, or reblock one into a long oval shape.
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by Ridgerunner58 »

If you are a true long oval there are things the hat guys (Penman, Garrison, et al.) can do to make the hat conform more. A softer fedora will conform somewhat on its own but the brim may distort.

Also in ordering consider that a leather sweatband will shrink slightly over time so ordering a bit large is a good idea. The best of all worlds, of course, is to buy a custom but you may not be at that point yet. :TOH:
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by Chewbacca Jones »

If you are buying of the rack, or pre-made, better a little big, and shim the band. Unless you can find a "long oval." If you want to buy online, you could also ask here about how a specific hat model fits any current owners.

As for how an Indy hat will look on a small head... if you aren't used to larger hat dimensions, regardless of head size, it will seem like a lot of hat at first, but you'll get used to it. If you go custom, Penman and such will adjust the stats of the hat to work relative to hat size if that's what you want. I find the main thing with big hats looking silly, it's less about head size and more about body type, face shape, and height.

If you get the chance to try on any hats - even if you don't plan to buy - check them in a mirror. Experiment with different crown heights and brim widths. If you can't experiment, and you have to buy online, I recommend starting with lower priced lids. Ebay can be a good place to find used hats.

I should tell you, with your small head size, you might want to look into vintage fedoras. Small sizes are in abundance, and usually don't have the same hefty price that larger sizes do.
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by jinxed »

This is excellent info, thank you. I most likely will stay budget minded with a hat since I've no clue if it will get worn outside of fun. However, I really the idea of a nice hat, so I sort of hope it sticks. I'm fairly proportionate in stature, 5'9" 155 @ 38-39" chest 32" waist, so nothing too out of whack. Fairly slim, but certainly not skinny.

Speaking of "vintage" hats, on a weird hunch, I dug out a hat I bought a couple years ago for my daughter to use for "cowboy" day at school. I remembered it seemed like a nice hat especially considering it was all of $5. As it turns out, I have a black western style Rand custom hat in 8X Beaver. I looked it up and my jaw dropped when I saw what it could possibly could have cost new. @ $400?! Apparently it's a decent hat, and is maybe only 1/2 size too small. On a whim I called them up and they said it could easily be upped in size and even reshaped, or left open. I have no clue how it would compare in shape to a proper fedora though. Not sure if I want to sink money into a black hat, but maybe if take to an Indy fedora, it might be worth pursuing as a second lid? I'll try to snap a picture of it.
Chewbacca Jones wrote:If you are buying of the rack, or pre-made, better a little big, and shim the band. Unless you can find a "long oval." If you want to buy online, you could also ask here about how a specific hat model fits any current owners.

As for how an Indy hat will look on a small head... if you aren't used to larger hat dimensions, regardless of head size, it will seem like a lot of hat at first, but you'll get used to it. If you go custom, Penman and such will adjust the stats of the hat to work relative to hat size if that's what you want. I find the main thing with big hats looking silly, it's less about head size and more about body type, face shape, and height.

If you get the chance to try on any hats - even if you don't plan to buy - check them in a mirror. Experiment with different crown heights and brim widths. If you can't experiment, and you have to buy online, I recommend starting with lower priced lids. Ebay can be a good place to find used hats.

I should tell you, with your small head size, you might want to look into vintage fedoras. Small sizes are in abundance, and usually don't have the same hefty price that larger sizes do.
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by Michaelson »

My friend, folks with large heads like mine envy folks like you, as just about every trip we make to antique stores we spot brand new old stock fedoras that we could never wear due to the smaller sizing, as men tended to be of smaller statures than today. You will continue to find treasures like you've already found if you keep your eyes open.

I fully agree with Chewy's advice above.

Regards! Michaelson
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by jinxed »

Here is the Rand's hat I mentioned. It's a custom so I can't find an exact model, but it's obviously western style. Might be fun to have it sized and blocked open to play around with. Add a black ribbon and it could look slick?

Image
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by Chewbacca Jones »

Don't dismiss the value of a good back hat. They go with everything! If you find the brim to wide, or too western, you could get it trimmed when you send it for a resize. Or, curl the sides if you like western but are overwhelmed by the brim.

I understand you're not sure about sinking money into it, so perhaps you should hold off until you have a hat that you've gotten used to wearing, and see if your a "hat guy." Then, you'll know if it's worth it to you. :H:
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by Indiana Jeff »

I did just that. I picked up an Akubra 'poli-straw' hat for $20 or $25 to see if I could be a 'hat guy'. I liked the look and got loads of compliments so it started....

Now, people comment if they don't see me wearing a hat.


And David Garrison (Local Land Surveyor here) did an excellent job converting a western style hat to an Indy lid for me. You can see it on page 10 of this thread. http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f ... &start=450" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



Regards,

Indiana Jeff
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by Forrest For the Trees »

I'd recommend going for a custom hat given your sizing requirements. I have a thinner face and the Akubra Federation fit me like a sombrero.
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by BendingOak »

jinxed wrote:I am desperately trying to talk myself into a fedora by reading and re-reading many of the posts here. There is a daunting amount of info to absorb to put it lightly.

Although one of the concerns I have is width in regards to fit. I haven't seen much mention of it despite searching. Apparently I have a "european" noggin that is oval. I've never owned a proper wool / fur hat, but over the years have tried on several in my size and every one of them seems to squeeze my head front to back, but I can stick a finger in the sides. Although completely rigid, I've had the same issue with motorcycle and bicycle helmets and have to stick with a couple particular brands due to a closer fitting shape.

So with little experience wearing a fedora of this caliper, and no way to try one on in person, are they supposed to fit like that? The only advice I've gotten regarding hat fit was from an exclusive cowboy hat maker I knew years ago. He was trying to sell me on a hat and told me they are supposed to fit tight to keep it on your head. I couldn't keep one on for 10 minutes without a headache. I passed it off as nonsense and obviously never bought one.

I realize felt is pliable and can only guess they will take on the shape of the wearer in time, but should it be tight to start?

I'm also curious...do the Indy fedoras look like clown hats on small heads? I'm basically @ 56.5 so right in between most makers 7 - 7 1/8. Best to go up or down? And also, do the dimensions of the hat scale with size?


You might want to go the route of a hatter with a conformature which I have two. One portable to send out to customers. Your not that small as the specs of a Indy hat would be off and with a custom hat maker tweaking can be done.
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by Michaelson »

Agreed 100%. If you're going to do it, do it right the first time. Get a custom hat made right out of the gate and you'll never look back.

Regards! Michaelson
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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by ChrisMD »

BendingOak wrote:
jinxed wrote:I am desperately trying to talk myself into a fedora by reading and re-reading many of the posts here. There is a daunting amount of info to absorb to put it lightly.

Although one of the concerns I have is width in regards to fit. I haven't seen much mention of it despite searching. Apparently I have a "european" noggin that is oval. I've never owned a proper wool / fur hat, but over the years have tried on several in my size and every one of them seems to squeeze my head front to back, but I can stick a finger in the sides. Although completely rigid, I've had the same issue with motorcycle and bicycle helmets and have to stick with a couple particular brands due to a closer fitting shape.

So with little experience wearing a fedora of this caliper, and no way to try one on in person, are they supposed to fit like that? The only advice I've gotten regarding hat fit was from an exclusive cowboy hat maker I knew years ago. He was trying to sell me on a hat and told me they are supposed to fit tight to keep it on your head. I couldn't keep one on for 10 minutes without a headache. I passed it off as nonsense and obviously never bought one.

I realize felt is pliable and can only guess they will take on the shape of the wearer in time, but should it be tight to start?

I'm also curious...do the Indy fedoras look like clown hats on small heads? I'm basically @ 56.5 so right in between most makers 7 - 7 1/8. Best to go up or down? And also, do the dimensions of the hat scale with size?


You might want to go the route of a hatter with a conformature which I have two. One portable to send out to customers. Your not that small as the specs of a Indy hat would be off and with a custom hat maker tweaking can be done.
Michaelson wrote:Agreed 100%. If you're going to do it, do it right the first time. Get a custom hat made right out of the gate and you'll never look back.

Regards! Michaelson


Sage advice OP! I took their advice about going custom from the start and it certainly paid off. Another vote here for a custom job.


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Re: General hat question regarding width and look on small h

Post by RayROnline »

jinxed wrote:This is excellent info, thank you. I most likely will stay budget minded with a hat since I've no clue if it will get worn outside of fun. However, I really the idea of a nice hat, so I sort of hope it sticks. I'm fairly proportionate in stature, 5'9" 155 @ 38-39" chest 32" waist, so nothing too out of whack. Fairly slim, but certainly not skinny...
Chewbacca Jones wrote:If you are buying of the rack, or pre-made, better a little big, and shim the band. Unless you can find a "long oval." If you want to buy online, you could also ask here about how a specific hat model fits any current owners.

As for how an Indy hat will look on a small head... if you aren't used to larger hat dimensions, regardless of head size, it will seem like a lot of hat at first, but you'll get used to it. If you go custom, Penman and such will adjust the stats of the hat to work relative to hat size if that's what you want. I find the main thing with big hats looking silly, it's less about head size and more about body type, face shape, and height.
I resize hats to fit all the time. It's easy. Especially with fur felt. (I like the Hallett Hat Stretcher, great price and really nice guy http://www.ebay.com/itm/CEDAR-HALLETT-H ... 2c9d5157c1)

Lightly moisten the inside of the leather sweatband. Put in the stretcher to snug (same as if you were using it to maintain the hat shape/size) then give it just a little more twist.. Leave it for an hour or more to settle. Your hat will retain the new size.

I've done this with fedoras and WWII Crusher caps up to a full 1/4" with no problem. Just don't over do it all at once. You can always do a little more but a little less won't happen and you have to pad inside. :whip:
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