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Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:55 pm
by Scramber_CJ8
Hey everyone,

I ordered this Raiders Authentic Lambskin from the Clearance "rack" on the Wested website at a good price. It is a custom jacket that somebody returned, but I thought I'd give it a shot since it looked to be about the right size for me. It is a Size 38R, 25" sleeves and 23" back length (which is 3" shorter than the off-the-rack jacket). I am 5'10.5" and 155-160 lbs, and wear a 38R jacket normally. Is this too short for the right Raiders look? Wondering if I shouldn't return it and custom order another that is an inch longer?

If I return it…maybe I should get goatskin. Since I placed my order, I've read a lot about how goatskin is much more durable for a functional jacket… Has anyone torn their Wested lambskin jackets doing anything other than being dragged behind a truck?

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

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Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 10:34 pm
by Texan Scott
I think you answered your own questions: 1. length 2. special order 3. goatskin according to your post.

If you were using this jacket for film, I'd say it is about the right length. It was basically a waist jacket because of the gun and whip; but since you are not, I think the wise choice is as you stated. Get one an inch longer in the torso, etc. It looks like it might be just slightly long, by maybe 1/2" in the sleeves too? first knuckle of the thumb is, well, a good rule of thumb. ;)

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:46 pm
by Forrest For the Trees
Yup, that's too short. That is a standard Raiders, not a Hero jacket, so 23" is too short. 25" would be more appropriate. When zipped, the front of the jacket should go past the bottom of your belt buckle, while the back hem should hit the top of your back pockets on a pair of jeans. That's how I like it to fit, anyway.

As to leather, that's your call. No, I've never ripped the lambskin. I like both lamb and goat skins, but nothing feels like lamb and I prefer a lighter weight jacket I can pull off and carry around if it gets too warm. That's a bit awkward to do with a bulky leather. If you are going to be rough with your jacket, or be caught out in the rain a bunch, then goatskin would be a better choice. Your call.

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 12:23 am
by Glenville86
Really subjective concerning the fit of these jackets.

I just order them to fit like a regular jacket with usually a few inches below the belt line. I also order a size up from my regular overcoat size as I don't like snug jackets. I don't "gear up" and just use them as regular jackets.

I do have one jacket that is close to SA in regards to length.

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 12:55 am
by CM
Ford's jacket was 22 inches and he was six one. I am a little taller but I prefer 26.5 inches. It's what you feel you can get away with.

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 8:54 am
by Texan Scott
The challenge is to nail down 'subjectivity'. Given your height and the torso length, 23" leans more to the Hero pattern than the old RoLA. If you decide to special order, don't hesitate to ask questions, etc.

Here are the specs from the archives, to clarify:

#000/888 Measurements that I took:
Front Flap w/ Collar Stand vertically from bottom to top: 23"
Shoulder from sleeve seam to collar seam: ~7"
Sleeves from cuff to sleeve seam: between 25 1/2" to 25 3/4"
Back vertical length from Collar Stand to Lower back panel: 23"
Chest width: 22 1/2"
Waist width: 21 1/2"
Pockets: 8" x 6.5" (Crystal Skull Pocket for comparison: 7.5" x 6")

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:16 am
by Charybdis
It all looks good to me, except when zipped up, it seems just a bit snug across the chest....as for skin, yes, lamb is indeed soft and real nice, but I just got a Wested goatskin and I am loving it!! As someone said in another thread, "wear the heck out of it!" and that's what I am doing! :D

Ford's jacket was only 22" long?? Wow!! Didn't realize it was that short!

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:27 am
by Texan Scott
#-o

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:12 pm
by Leigh
I recently got a Hero with a 23" back, and I have to say, while I love my jacket, it does feel a tiny bit short for day to day wear. And I'm 5"10ish. (Although I know that depending on who you ask Harrison Ford's height is often either given as 5"10 or 6"1 so I'm not sure how tall he actually is). I notice when wearing the full gear that it seems about right if I'm doing the 'costume', but that's because Indy has his trousers hitched up a bit higher than I'd traditionally wear mine (as fits the time, I guess, trousers would be worn higher).

So as others have said, I think it depends what you want. Screen accurate or a day to day jacket. Mine comes to about level with my belt, which is as I said, a bit short for comfortable day to day wear. You can certainly get away with it, it just feels a little bit unusual and takes a bit of getting used to.

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:23 pm
by fateoftheduck
I think one inch is a negligible difference. I'd use a measuring tape against the questioned spots of this jacket to make sure how much of a difference you really want.

In regards to the sleeves, maybe others with worn-in lambskin jackets can say for sure but you might lose a bit of sleeve length once it wears in. I can say that I lost length with my goatskin. When it was new the sleeves were too long (due to bigger shoulders of the Hero). I got the ends of the sleeves soaked in a heavy rainstorm and then they were just right. It was a weirdly specific accident too - only the ends of the sleeves got wet because I was pushing a baby buggy, my wife held an umbrella over us and only my outstretched forearms got wet).

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:29 pm
by TheExit148
Personal opinion weighs into this question A LOT more then people think on this.

The Raiders jacket (as it is in the film on HF) is a shorter jacket. While wearing the pants of the film (higher waisted than most) the jacket will fall past the belt line by a couple of inches. While wearing with the majority of pants today, it will hit just below the belt line.

Here is my Nowak Raiders jacket. It has a 23.5" back length and front storm flap length. I am 6 ft tall. I am wearing Levi's Vintage Clothing 1947 501's that have about a 10 inch rise. It hits pretty much the same on most of my other pants which are the Jcrew 484 fit (look them up for the info).

For some reason, a lot of people aren't comfortable wearing a shorter jacket. It's just how it is, and the #'s make them second guess lengths.

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Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:42 pm
by Texan Scott
One good thing is that he can base his measurements from the jacket he already has, for a better custom fit.

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:53 pm
by Scramber_CJ8
Hey everyone,

Thanks a bunch for the replies! I know we have all been in the same boat at one time or another, ordering custom jackets from the UK and not being completely certain of sizing etc before pulling the trigger. It's quite the investment - I appreciate the help : ) As several of you pointed out, this is such a subjective thing to discuss…thanks for bearing with me.

I was originally interested in ordering a Hero, but had some concerns regarding fit compared to the Standard Raiders. I think TheExit148's Nowak Raiders pics look like an ideal fit for me. I like the shorter length, narrower body fit and narrower/tapered sleeves (the standard Raiders sleeves are much too wide I think). However, I read somewhere that the Wested Hero cut was not ideal for people with narrower shoulders, so I guess I wrote it off in my mind. Here are a few concerns I have about the Hero:

- I wear a Size 38 jacket - will the wider shoulders of the Hero give the chest a looser fit or does it only affect where the top of the sleeve starts?
- Is the collar larger on the Hero versus the Standard, or does it just sit off the neck more?

I feel like if I were to order a custom standard Raiders, I would request an extra inch of back length and an inch less for the sleeves (24" back length and 24" sleeves). Does that sound right based on the pics I posted? If I were to order a custom Hero instead, how would these measurements differ (on account of the wider cut shoulders, etc)?

Thanks - I appreciate you taking time to help me out!

Patrick

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 2:57 am
by CM
Patrick I'd go 25 inches at your height. And from the photos your jacket looks like it could use 2 inches more. All depends on the pants though. If you're wearing modern low rise jeans a shorter jacket will look bloody awful. Conversely I've seen some Indy jackets that are dreadfully long to my eye and almost fit like a car coat.

Your sleeves could lose a little (an inch maybe as you say) but remember Indy's jacket sleeves were fairly long.

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:20 am
by youngjedi71
YEP..unless people want a jacket that rides up and is way too short you should special order..I know my jacket is the same..AND im thinking there is zero difference from film jacket to film jacket from Wested..I have LC/CS and looks the same as yours OP..IM disappointed with mine,..BUT I wear it everyday. Cant spend nearly 400$ for something and not use it.

Re: Correct Length for Wested Raiders?

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 12:15 pm
by TheExit148
Scramber_CJ8 wrote:I was originally interested in ordering a Hero, but had some concerns regarding fit compared to the Standard Raiders. I think TheExit148's Nowak Raiders pics look like an ideal fit for me. I like the shorter length, narrower body fit and narrower/tapered sleeves (the standard Raiders sleeves are much too wide I think). However, I read somewhere that the Wested Hero cut was not ideal for people with narrower shoulders, so I guess I wrote it off in my mind. Here are a few concerns I have about the Hero:

- I wear a Size 38 jacket - will the wider shoulders of the Hero give the chest a looser fit or does it only affect where the top of the sleeve starts?
- Is the collar larger on the Hero versus the Standard, or does it just sit off the neck more?

I feel like if I were to order a custom standard Raiders, I would request an extra inch of back length and an inch less for the sleeves (24" back length and 24" sleeves). Does that sound right based on the pics I posted? If I were to order a custom Hero instead, how would these measurements differ (on account of the wider cut shoulders, etc)k
Remember too that I'm 6 ft, and this jacket which hangs off my shoulders is 23.5" back length AND front storm flap length. I've added .5" to the "HF" sized jacket TN had.

First, I would email Wested and ask what their "standard" measurements are for a size 38 Hero jacket and a size 38 Raiders jacket are; they should supply you with chest measurement, waist measurement, front length of storm flap(may have to call this out to get), shoulders across the back, and half shoulder measurement.

From there, for the HERO jacket, you can gauge your back/front length measurements, and arm lengths. Since the jacket is supposed to be slightly wider then your shoulders, the arm length may need to be altered. Even though my jacket hangs off the shoulders, I still order my standard 26" arm length which hits my thumb knuckle, and leaves a small amount to accommodate for slight shrinking from creases, and possible soaking (if that's your thing).
I would also recommend advising Wested of your wanted waist measurements as well, depending on the "standard" of the pattern.

You can follow the same steps for the Raiders jacket, and adjust arm length, and back length accordingly to preference.

The Raiders jacket is an Indy style jacket with the some of the "details" of the film jacket, but made to fit like a normal jacket would. The Hero jacket is made to behave like it does in the film, and carry most of the details; hangs off the shoulders a little, pocket shapes, straps etc etc.

Tell Wested exactly what you want measurements wise; spec it out exactly. If I was ordering, I would tell them the following:

Jacket measurements:
- Chest width across
- Waist width across
- Back shoulders across
- Back length (from collar stand to bottom of the jacket)
- Front storm flap length
- Arm length

Send them these and they can help you get what your looking for.

Hope that helps out.

PS: I personally like any of my jackets to be more fitted, so my measurements help reflect that look. If I could change anything about my TN Raiders, I would make the back shoulders across and half shoulder a little bit smaller.