Club Obi Wan

I'm on about the fourth Nowak Raiders jacket I've had pass through my hands...this time the 747 cowhide...dark brown...lovely, lovely, LOVELY stuff. Fit is perfect through the body...and, measurement-wise, by all accounts, it ought to fit like other jackets I have...but...it doesn't.

My question is this: Do you find that the shoulders hang off your shoulders a bit awkwardly, making the upper back sort of "catch" when moving your arms into raised positions (like driving) and making the sleeves longer than they would be normally? I have had this with every Nowak Raiders I've tried...some worse than others...and, I'm just curious if this is by design and everyone experiences this, or if it's just me.

Regards!
ID

I do believe this was done design-wise to mirror the imperfections in the jacket and have them hang off the shoulders, away from the neck, like the jacket Ford wears did. My CS doesn't do this, but the Raiders does. I doesn't fall off my shoulders, but does sit away from my neck.

Yup, that's how it is made to fit, based on the jacket Tony had in hand. Mine fits the same way. Not crazy about it myself, but definitely part of the original jacket's design. Todd's jackets are a good middle ground between looking screen accurate, but not fitting screen accurately, if that makes sense. My Todd's jacket fits like a normal jacket should, but looks like the Raiders jacket.

Yep. I recall Tony saying he copied what was a "poorly #$@@!! designed pattern". That unique Raiders fit is the poorness of the fit, exactly as you describe.

By contrast Tony's CS jacket is of course properly patterned.

Yep, that's definitely the Raider's design. At first it bothered me intellectually that the fit was 'off' when I received my Raiders jacket from Tony. But that stopped fairly quickly.

Whenever I've gotten a new jacket I would tend to wear it more often than any of my older ones but after a while it falls into the rotation (what good is it to own dozens of jackets and not make time wear them all when the opportunity arises, eh?). When it comes to the Nowak Raiders jacket I now always get that feeling of "Aahhh, that's the one. That's the Raiders jacket." whenever I put it on.

-DCMJ!

CM wrote:Yep. I recall Tony saying he copied what was a "poorly #$@@!! designed pattern". That unique Raiders fit is the poorness of the fit, exactly as you describe.

By contrast Tony's CS jacket is of course properly patterned.

...and the irony for me is, the Raiders jacket looks great and the CS jacket looks dull.

Indydawg wrote:I'm on about the fourth Nowak Raiders jacket I've had pass through my hands...this time the 747 cowhide...dark brown...lovely, lovely, LOVELY stuff. Fit is perfect through the body...and, measurement-wise, by all accounts, it ought to fit like other jackets I have...but...it doesn't.

My question is this: Do you find that the shoulders hang off your shoulders a bit awkwardly, making the upper back sort of "catch" when moving your arms into raised positions (like driving) and making the sleeves longer than they would be normally? I have had this with every Nowak Raiders I've tried...some worse than others...and, I'm just curious if this is by design and everyone experiences this, or if it's just me.

Regards!
ID

From this explanation, it sounds like Mr. Nowak got more accurate in the designs of your jacket you are speaking of at this moment. From what I have read, the jacket had a bit off shoulders effect on it. Meaning it sort of came off the shoulders of HF, so it gave it a sloppy look to his costume, So maybe your jacket was made to a more accurate HF look.

Regards from an endangered gentleman: baddates1

CM wrote:... That unique Raiders fit is the poorness of the fit ....

Maybe this is accentuated by the thickness of some hides ?

All the nowaks I had did the same as does Wested's Hero. It is in the design but it does work well with the wearing of the jacket with a long sleeve shirt in warm weather. I've gotten so use to it that I don't even notice it anymore!

Ah...good to know it isn't just me, then.

Thanks!
ID

Tibor wrote:

CM wrote:Yep. I recall Tony saying he copied what was a "poorly #$@@!! designed pattern". That unique Raiders fit is the poorness of the fit, exactly as you describe.

By contrast Tony's CS jacket is of course properly patterned.

...and the irony for me is, the Raiders jacket looks great and the CS jacket looks dull.

Hey man, I'm totally with you. That Raiders jacket represents everything I got into jackets for in the first place. It's distressed in a believable way. It sits wonderfully on HF's frame like it's an old friend. The jacket in KS looks like a not very accurate repo worn by some old guy in tribute to his hero.

Well, to be fair, I think you've pretty much hit the nail on the proverbial head, CM. He IS an old guy in the 4th film when compared to the 1st.

The Raiders jacket was the jacket Indy wore when he was in his 30's. Looser, much more in tune with his active lifestyle. At the time of the film release I was about the same age as the character, so I totally understood the fit of the jacket.

I, too, looked for years to find the original source of that pattern, and it wasn't until 1997 that I finally hooked up with Peter Botwright and had my first Indy jacket created for me. I loved the jacket....it was true to the film and I enjoyed the heck out of as it did allow for more freedom of movement. As long as I made sure I had a cotton lining so it didn't slide around, it was great.

Now I'm approaching my 60's, and having once owned a Nowak CS jacket, the fit and feel of the CS jacket suited me right down to the soles of my feet. It was comfortable, sat correctly on my shoulders, and unlike my original Raiders jacket that I loved in my 30's, my CS jacket was just more comfortable. Because I have lost so much weight (intentionally) it no longer fit, so it was 'moved on' to another fan to enjoy.

All that said, I have never had a problem seeing Ford in the Nowak in CS, as, like Indy at his age, I could see 'function over form' as he's aged. I felt he was more into what was comfortable at that time of this life. Clothing and ideas of use definitely change as we age.

I still wear my old 2001-2002 G&B prototypes (a vegetable tanned goatskin and a lambskin) which are true to the Raiders pattern....but now I prefer a jacket that sits correctly on my body rather than something that slides around due to my 'active nature'....which isn't quite as 'active' now as it was when I was in my 30's.

Ironically, the jacket I own that fits me perfectly is my Magnoli Raiders cowhide! I don't know what they did to change the pattern, as it IS the Raiders jacket, but the shoulders stay put like the CS jacket! It wasn't a custom either. It was an OTR prototype. The best of both worlds! I just wish it was lambskin instead of cowhide, as MAN that jacket is heavy! I only wear it when it's REALLY cold.

Anyway, enough rambling....just an observation and my own opinion, but based on personal experience.

Regards! Michaelson

I hear you M. I just didn't feel the costume in CS worked as it looked too perfect. Too deliberate and costume-like and the jacket also had that pre-distressed look. He might well be an old guy but he could be an old guy in clothes that look like he might actually wear them. If function over form really mattered to him so much he would have worn an MA1 and jeans by then. Actually, I was hoping Harrison would wear a G&B in the film. Maybe the one you guys helped present him. Anyway, I'm glad you lost weight. Now you can start ordering a new cycle of jackets for your new svelte self.

CM wrote:I hear you M. I just didn't feel the costume in CS worked as it looked too perfect. Too deliberate and costume-like and the jacket also had that pre-distressed look. He might well be an old guy but he could be an old guy in clothes that look like he might actually wear

YES! This was my impression too. In the previous films the jackets each had character, wear, and a lived in look true to the life they would have led. In CS, it didn't have rumples or grain or anything of interest. The cut was ok but the hide used was very bland and featureless. It may be a case where the leather looked vintage in person but just doesn't film well.

CM wrote: Anyway, I'm glad you lost weight. Now you can start ordering a new cycle of jackets for your new svelte self.

Regards! M

How do you find a Nowak jacket. Cant seem to find a sight on the internet.

Should of said "site" on the net. First time I've posted anything, anywhere.

The founder of the company, Tony Nowak, passed away and his son took up the business, however they no longer make Indiana Jones jackets and only work on larger corporate accounts I believe.

Your best bet is to watch the Cairo Bazaar here and eBay to find one second hand, though they're getting more scarce from what I've seen.

Thanks for the info.

I got the one currently in possession in a trade with another member who was interested in a Nowak Surrogates jacket I had for sale. The Surrogates fit a bit better than the Raiders, and the measurements were identical, so all I can figure is it's the cut.

I like the Raiders well enough...but, honestly, the shoulders could be a bit more narrow, and the sleeves a bit shorter...

Like, M...losing weight...and not the kind of weight I want to be losing ...

Need to hit the weight room.

Tibor wrote:The founder of the company, Tony Nowak, passed away and his son took up the business, however they no longer make Indiana Jones jackets and only work on larger corporate accounts I believe.

Your best bet is to watch the Cairo Bazaar here and eBay to find one second hand, though they're getting more scarce from what I've seen.

Actually it was his stepson Riley. There were a few individuals who established a relationship with him in the short period when he took over the business and have been able to work out jacket orders. My last contact with him was in 2012 when I was working on getting a black cafe racer. I haven't heard much news from the shop since then.

Indydawg wrote:I got the one currently in possession in a trade with another member who was interested in a Nowak Surrogates jacket I had for sale. The Surrogates fit a bit better than the Raiders, and the measurements were identical, so all I can figure is it's the cut.

I like the Raiders well enough...but, honestly, the shoulders could be a bit more narrow, and the sleeves a bit shorter...

Like, M...losing weight...and not the kind of weight I want to be losing ...

Need to hit the weight room.

Lol. That would be me!!!

Funny that we are both on here!!

Rikimaru wrote:

Tibor wrote:The founder of the company, Tony Nowak, passed away and his son took up the business, however they no longer make Indiana Jones jackets and only work on larger corporate accounts I believe.

Your best bet is to watch the Cairo Bazaar here and eBay to find one second hand, though they're getting more scarce from what I've seen.

Actually it was his stepson Riley. There were a few individuals who established a relationship with him in the short period when he took over the business and have been able to work out jacket orders. My last contact with him was in 2012 when I was working on getting a black cafe racer. I haven't heard much news from the shop since then.

Pretty sure Riley disavowed the Indy (and possibly film) connection right around then. I seem to remember a liquidation sale around that time to get rid of all their stock. A shame too, because I'm assuming one of my Nowaks that I had sent in for repairs was sold in that sale...

As far as I'm concerned, TNO died with Tony.