Club Obi Wan

In my hour of despair, so I turn to you guys. After an interminably long wait on the post office delivery, I finally received the single most amazing article of clothing Ive purchased in life. That would be my new US Wings Crystal Skull (from the original batch of leather) jacket, bought from the bazaar. Tags on, new. Gorgeous beyond words new. Just perfect in every way. Well, except one. Its too small.

I wear an XL in every single thing I own, but all the research, measurements, and comments here led me to believe a L in USwings would be better. Well, I was wrong. Dead wrong. The sleeves, hang, and shoulders are fine. But I can barely zip the thing.

I turn to you guys for some help in determining my next step. Im not worried about resell- Im sure I can get back what I paid. The concern I have is whether my body type can ever successfully wear an Indy jacket. I have what might charitably called a ghetto booty, so I short shirts and jackets are usually not good on me. I like something that hangs down lower. I also like things a bit baggy- i like to zip jackets and dont want them tight. I hate tight.

Im starting to that think that all Indy jackets, regardless of manufacturer, will pose a problem because they are specifically designed to be cut short (at or just below belt level, from what I can figure). Are there any that run a bit longer? Should I order a "long" from US wings to solve the problem? Or just go with my normal size, XL, and assume that it will be big enough?

This jacket that I bought is not unwearably tight by any means. Its just much more snug than I like, and I know I will kick myself if I settle for it. So I say again- I turn to you guys in my time of need. Know of any jackets that fit the bill (looser fitting, longer in style)? I still want to a durable year round guy that will last and last, which is why I went with USW cowhide in the first place. Any help at all would be most appreciated. Its killing me seeing this thing lying on my bed and me not being able to wear it.

Justin

Hey Justin, I understand your concern. When I started the hobby I normally wore coats instead of jackets. Jackets are supposed to sit around the belt level whilst coats go well past the belt line. That said I too wanted a longer jacket. My first jacket was from Todd's first batch and it was way to short in all areas for my liking. Then I got the same style jacket you now own and it fit me well. That's not saying I still didn't want it to be longer (I was still in coat mode). Now, I've been through a lot of Indy jackets but I still prefer them a bit longer than being completely screen accurate.

My suggestion is to try Wings Long cut because Wings jackets really are the loosest cut Indy jacket around. Most of the other guys are going for screen accuracy so the jackets are more slim cut and shorter. Wings makes theirs with a little more "grace" so it'll be more loose. You could also go the custom made route and get it cut exactly how you ask from many of our fine vendors. It all depends on how much you want to spend.

Just a thought and best of luck to you with whatever jacket you find.

-The Dude

Thanks for the advice, Dude. I think youre on to it (coat v. jacket mentality). I will email Sarge about some custom hybrid long type jacket that might better fit my dimensions. And, as always, I will try to abide.

Justin

Good deal and best of luck

-The Dude

Either that or a custom job from Wested, Magnoli, etc.

Definitely custom is the way to go for you, I'd say. Turn in your exact measurements and let them tailor it to fit...you! Enclose a pic. Turn profile and give them a shot of the watermelon you swallowed! JUST KIDDING! This way you don't have to buy many times over. Just buy one if you want one. Wested has some really good cowhide leather, such as the copper novapelle, dark np, pre-distressed hide, lambtouch, etc. All of these make fine jackets, but for the CS look, I'd say copper np. That dua-tone cowhide is hard to beat. I mention them because these are the least costly custom you can buy. Turn the initial shortcomings into a victory for you.

I hate when that happens with a jacket. The Wings tend to be cut bigger and longer than the rest and I've seen them worn by some big guys and they look good. Do they make an XXL? Why not check that out that before going custom. Or maybe Sarge can tell you if there are size variations between the various Wings patterns - an extra inch in the chest or pit-to-pit may be all you need.

The Wings jackets tend to be longer and bigger in the chest than any other Indy jacket maker. If a Large didn't work, than perhaps an XL. That's my vote. Wings doesn't do custom work. You'd have to go to Wested for that.

Nice suggestions, guys. I loved the idea of USA made, which is why Wings was in the front of my mind. Well that, plus Michaelson gave it a very strong endorsement, which is pretty much good enough for me on any issue of question. But Wested is what started me in this crazy pursuit in the first place. I found them last year, and have been dreaming about it ever since. The pros and cons of custom made v. off the rack can be debated to death. Im going to think long and hard about both and let you guys know. I will say that, to a person, people have told me that USW are the longest and "fullest" cut on the market. So if I do go off the rack, USW is likely the best choice. I emailed Sarge yesterday with my measurements and my sob story, and asked if he realistically thought any of their jackets would work with my body type. Of course, the easiest solution would be to get my fat ### to the gym and lose a few. But then, what with Thanksgiving and the holidays upon us, thats no fun. No fun at all, I tell you. Much easier to just buy a larger jacket, and continue to eat like an idiot.

I agree with the USW sizing comments already made with one caveat.

Their Legend line is cut slimmer. The USW site lists the sizing as "Normal" as opposed to "Military" which means slim fitting, but the consensus here is the Legend jackets are cut slimmer than the other Indy jacket offerings. The Signature line seems to be the most generously cut.

As an additional word of caution, Sarge tends to recommend sizing that would edge toward a slimmer fitting style. I guess it comes from his military background. I visited USW a few years ago and got the chance to meet Sarge. He had me try on just about every jacket they had in the store, Indy and otherwise, and consistently told me the tighter fitting jackets fit me best. Most felt pretty snug. Technically they fit, but I would not have been comfortable moving around in them.


Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Apparently sarge, and the rest of the fashion world (see Gap, j crew, and every other company that makes "slim fit" shirts in abundance), don't have a business plan for us "husky" gentleman. Good advice on the USW though. I'm thinking of trying to grab a G&B goat 2XL as well, but understand they aren't as roomy as USW. But man, talk about a quality build- from what I hear, those babies are tanks. Exactly what I'm after.

Yeah, if you get a G&B Expedition that fits, you'll be pretty much done with your search for a base jacket in your collection. Everything else will just be gravy.

Regard! Michaelson

I suppose another option is to get a long in my regular size. Am I correct in saying that a long USW will just have a longer overall lenght (collar to waist)? I need to get to as close to 30 inches as possible on overall length. More and more Im realizing that what Im after is more a leather coat that looks like an Indy jacket, rather than a strict Indy jacket itself. Im sure Im not the only person thats gone this route, am I?

The good people at USW havent responded to my email about sizing for the last 3 days, so maybe Ill ping them too. not sweating it- it is Thanksgiving week, after all, and people should be forgiven for ignoring any and all work in anticipation of turkey and gravy.

Well, Tundraider, I thank you for the info. When it comes to Expeditions, it seems you have the real scoop. At least thats what all your pics seems to indicate (and positive comments from everyone about the pics!). You wear it well! Hope I can duplicate even a little bit, and Id be happy.

I also wonder if there is a thread of group of folks that are "practical Indy enthusiasts," as Im thinking of myself. People that primarily want things they can wear (and wear hard) every day, instead of SA. Just a thought.

I think part of my issues with the jacket are self-imposed. Were I wanting a more SA jacket, it would be easier than trying to make one of these fine Indy jackets fit my purposes. Anyway, I thank you all for all the help and comments. Your reward will be pics, once I settle on a jacket.

Justin

I would say the majority of members here are firmly in the practical camp. A big reason people like the Indy gear is the ability to wear it in the real world. That's a huge reason USW and G&B have remained such popular vendors. Both offer jackets with a bona fide Indiana Jones pedigree with links back to production used jackets. Their jacket offerings may not be the most exact screen accurate models available; but both make high quality, wearable jackets that will live up to the abuse of real life adventuring. (Even if that adventuring consists solely of wearing the jacket to and from work. )

As The Dude first mentioned, the Indy jacket takes some getting used to if you normally wear a longer coat style. To go from this



to this




Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Great screen grabs! Its funny, but the mind sees what it wants to see. I've watched the movies almost a hundred times all-in, and checked out pics here, and never quite fully comprehended that the Indy jacket is really just supposed to be that short. The man is fighting in, essentially, a leather button-down shirt! Really, its not even as long as a sports coat!

But that makes sense, right? Good for movement, nothing to catch, high and tight around the waste. Thats just how the jacket was designed, conceived, and fits. So trying to get a "long" mid thigh version, as Im trying to do, is in a lot of way defeating the whole purpose. Buying this should be about finding the best jacket, in this style, that fits my body. So getting one large enough to zip up comfortably without being too snug is fine. But getting one that is mid-thigh? Not really going to happen.

I guess Im back where I started, but thats good I think. Im not going to fit a square peg in a round hole. Im just going to get the best Indy jacket for me. In the end, thats what everyone here is all about anyway.

To be fair, that particular picture makes the jacket appear even shorter, but no Indy jacket is thigh length. There's been no end to the debates on exactly how long Indy's jacket should be. My advice, get a jacket that fits you. You're the one wearing it and if it's an inch or two longer or shorter than what HF wore in the movies, so what.

Just keep in mind if you decide to order a long in your size to get a little extra length in the body, the sleeves will also be longer.


Regards,


Indiana Jeff

The film item is a jacket, not a coat - the back length of the movie jacket is around 23-24 inches and Harrison is about six feet one. If you are after something 30 inches in length, that's the length of a car coat. I'm six feet two and 30 inches is the same length as my sports coats. Maybe you should have a look at Magnoli's Fedora jacket - the longer leather coat worn by Indy's sartorial role model at the start of Last Crusade. It's a cool jacket and looks great on larger guys.

FYI, I've just posted pics of my G&B down in the Cairo Bazaar.

I finally heard back from sarge, and he suggested an XL in a signature series, as a lot of you guys did. In the meantime, I found a very fine looking goat expedition in 48R. Since 48 is right on that border between XL and 2XL, I went for it. It's heading towards me right now, and should have it soon hopefully. Then, if its still off size wise, I go to the XL Wings. So, I'll go from "no jackets and researching" to "three jackets and confused" in just about a month. That seems bout right, huh?

Yeah, that sounds about right.

Around here you may be behind the curve!

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Justin wrote:I finally heard back from sarge, and he suggested an XL in a signature series, as a lot of you guys did. In the meantime, I found a very fine looking goat expedition in 48R. Since 48 is right on that border between XL and 2XL, I went for it. It's heading towards me right now, and should have it soon hopefully. Then, if its still off size wise, I go to the XL Wings. So, I'll go from "no jackets and researching" to "three jackets and confused" in just about a month. That seems bout right, huh?

Just an FYI....if the G&B Expedition fits, you're done.

Regards! Michaelson

Great when a plan comes together! G&B will take care of those Indy jacket woes!

Tund- how right you are. Good that the timing of the jackets arrival should be right around the new year. I love a good resolution, and getting in shape is high on my list. You have it dead-on- its about the will power and determination to do it.

Michaelson- your suggestion of the goat expedition is what led me down this path to begin with. I would love nothing more for this thing to fit. No 1 on my wish list when I started this was durability. Can't imagine a better choice for that. The goat expedition truly is my grail.

The Expedition can't be beat for durability! Sounds like yours is the same size as mine--I'll try to post new photos of it in the Expedition thread soon.

Best wishes,
Dr. Nebraska S.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wore my 2001 prototype today, as a matter of fact. Just gets better with age! They are the 'bench mark' when it comes to dependable/sturdy and long lasting jackets in our hobby to date.

Regard! Michaelson

Congrats on finding something that works for you, man!

The Expedition is, indeed, an awesome jacket....right, Jeff?!?!?! (cue giant sigh that I don't still have mine, even though I had lost so much weight it didn't fit well any longer.... )



ID

Justin, here's a link to some newer photos of my 48R Expedition in goatskin:
viewtopic.php?p=836450#p836450

Hope this helps while you wait!

Best wishes,
Dr. Nebraska S.

Ugh...you guys are killin' me with this.

Hey, tell me this, though, Justin. In your conversations with G&B, did they offer other leather choices besides the goatskin and lambskin? One of the reasons I don't just get myself a new one that fits is that I'm afraid the new leather offerings are chrome tanned (dyed all the way through), and won't develop the beautiful patina of older jackets that have those great undertones like the Vegetable tanned leathers (like the early Expos, i.e., Michaelson's prototype, and the one that Jeff currently has).

Regards!
ID

Indydawg wrote:Ugh...you guys are killin' me with this.

Hey, tell me this, though, Justin. In your conversations with G&B, did they offer other leather choices besides the goatskin and lambskin? One of the reasons I don't just get myself a new one that fits is that I'm afraid the new leather offerings are chrome tanned (dyed all the way through), and won't develop the beautiful patina of older jackets that have those great undertones like the Vegetable tanned leathers (like the early Expos, i.e., Michaelson's prototype, and the one that Jeff currently has).

Regards!
ID

Sorry, Dawg! Michaelson's and Jeff's veg-tanned Expos can't be beat. Part of why I posted those photos is to give Justin an idea how the chrome-tanned Expo will look like after a few years. It's a different kind of undertone--you can see just a little of it in that bottom photo I posted.

Best wishes,
Dr. Nebraska S.

Yeah....that's what I figured a jacket that will pretty much always look new.

Not my idea of a good time.

Now, if they'd do the jacket in some other leathers and not charge an arm and a leg...

Dr. Nebraska- beautiful pics. Your pics, as well as Tundraiders and Canastas, are examples 1, 2, and 3 of what Im after. All three of you have the form, drape, and fit Im looking for. Tundraiders might be the most "broken in", but I believe he uses his patented 7 step aging technique to achieve this look. So Im aware that it wont get that way on its own (well, at least not for many many years).

I very much appreciate the photos of the chrome tanned jacket, for accurate comparison with the older models. I actually dont know what Im getting, really. The person I bought it from on the Bay said they're the second owner, but that its received little to no wear. The photos posted with the sale confirm that it looks like new, and seems to be in outstanding shape. So I expect like new, but as far as age goes? Dont quite know. When did exclusively chrome-tanned start at G&B? Even with the chrome, Nebraska, your jacket looks pretty darn sweet with 4 years of wear on it. I can only hope that 4, 5, 10 years from now, my jacket looks as good. My general plan is to take a page from the Book of Michaelson (from Chapters 4 or 5, of course), and just wear the thing constantly. That, and a few applications of Pecards from time to time, should be all I need to take care of business.

My emails with G&B did not get in to leather. I asked them about sizing, they sent me a form to fill out, and answered some questions about sizes. We didnt really get in to different kinds of leather, what else was available, or anything like that. Sorry!

Before Dave Marshall left, I was considering one in a distressed cowhide and/or their bison....the cow was veg tanned, but wasn't quite red enough in undertones for what I was after. The Bison was chrome tanned....beautiful leather, but would always look new.

The quotes for both were upwards of 700.00...and I didn't have the cash.

I believe they've always offered the chrome tanned...but, only did the veg tanned for a short time, and perhaps just for their vintage A-2 and M422 jackets...so, I guess, they may technically still be available..

Indydawg wrote:Congrats on finding something that works for you, man!

The Expedition is, indeed, an awesome jacket....right, Jeff?!?!?! (cue giant sigh that I don't still have mine, even though I had lost so much weight it didn't fit well any longer.... )



ID

Playing a bit of catch-up here. Yeah, the G&B Expo is awesome. Dawg, you know you'll always have right of first refusal though I think that negotiation will end up taking place between our kids!


Regards,

Indiana Jeff

True, that, amigo!

Justin, can't wait to see your 48R Expedition - ironically my XXL limited US Wings Crystal Skull is too big, and I'm thinking of getting one of those in that size. Please post pics when the jacket arrives!

Exciting news all. Jacket arrived yesterday, but since I refuse to take it off, I havent yet taken pics. Im hoping to shoot some tomorrow and post tomorrow night or Sat. The short teaser review is that this thing is everything I hoped for and more. Its all things to all people- incredibly durable, roomy, but nice and snug when zipped. Its going to look new forever, but can be distressed if needed. Its warm enough for winter, but lightweight enough not to make you sweat when indoors. Its outstanding. I have many more adjectives where these came from, so Ill save it for my actual review and pics (which Ill actually probably post in the Expedition pic thread). Big huge shoutout to the guy on Ebay who sold it to me. Dont know if hes a COWer, but if youre on here, thank you again sir