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Calf leather 10 feet bullwhip
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 3:32 pm
by Misa
Re: Calf leather 10 feet bullwhip
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 7:41 pm
by kwh
a good looking whip to me.
Re: Calf leather 10 feet bullwhip
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 7:49 pm
by Canuck Digger
Is it just the pic or does your handle have a curve?
Next whip try skiving your strands on opposite sides for the overlay, so they sit more neatly one atop of the other.
Your taper looks good though!
Well done.
Re: Calf leather 10 feet bullwhip
Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 4:59 am
by Misa
Canuck Digger wrote:Is it just the pic or does your handle have a curve?
Next whip try skiving your strands on opposite sides for the overlay, so they sit more neatly one atop of the other.
Your taper looks good though!
Well done.
Chessboard pattern on handle is little longer then nail in foundation of handle, so when i try to cover transition between two plaiting, cower knot was not supported by whip handle nail, rookie mistake
Skiving is little problem for me, i try several time to do it on test strands and i always ruin sides of strand. So i do not know how to solve this problem. I try whit some my made tools buh it is same result...
Re: Calf leather 10 feet bullwhip
Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 8:51 am
by riku1914
It's a lot easier to learn paring strands on kangaroo. If you can get your hands on some it will go well for ya.
Re: Calf leather 10 feet bullwhip
Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:29 pm
by Canuck Digger
Right, I see what happened. It's always a good idea to make your ring knot over a solid foundation, I.E. -The tip of the handle. It takes about 1/2" to make the transition +/-, so start your transition BEFORE you get to the end of your handle foundation. If you do a of of bindings you may have a little latitude because the bindings right after the handle foundation will make things very stiff, but you shouldn't count on it. If you are trying to make a Raiders whip (meaning a longer thinner handle look), you might consider making your handle foundation a little longer to achieve the same look while still having a solid foundation for the ring knot.
As for the turk's head at the butt end, you have to understand the Indy whip was made with a strip of lead wound around the base of the handle and this was held in place with tacks and binding or strong thread. The thread also serves to shape the knot foundation into a more rounded aspect and because it is made with lead which is soft even though it's metal, the knot can be further shaped once the turk's head is on with rolling and if need be, a mallet.
Also you may wish to consider making the strands a tad wider over the handle...
Riku is right about kangaroo being easire to work with than cow. I'm sure if you asked a whipmaker to sell you some scrap strands and by strand I mean stuff they won't use because too short or something like that, you could practice skiving.
As for tools, I still think the manual approach is pretty good-it just takes a bit of practice.
Good luck.