Pardon my ignorance here, but is it now mandatory in order to get an even fit to request an extra 1.5 inches to the front of a Wested, or does this just apply to certain people of differing proportions.
If you want the jacket, any jacket really, that has a straight hem at
the bottom to look horizontal when you
have it zipped up, it should be longer in the front than in the back.
You can prove this to yourself by taking any jacket with a straight
hem, zipping it up, and laying it flat on the floor on on the bed.
If the front and back of the jacket are even with each other, then the
jacket will look higher in the front when you wear it, and you stand
straight up.
If the front of the jacket, while laying flat on the floor or bed is longer,
or sticks down past the back (which would now be underneath the front)
then the jacket will look more horizontal when worn, and you are standing
straight up.
Just take a look at just about every person here who has posted a side
view shot of themselves with the jacket zipped up. It is higher in the front
than the back.
But if you look at people who have added the extra inch to inch and a
half, their jackets look almost perfectly horizontal.
My first Wested was like this. It road up in the front, and when I took
pictures of myself from the side, the jacket really looked awful.
But after I got my new jacket, and I had added an extra 1.5 inches to
the standard pattern front, the jacket sits almost perfectly horizontal now.
M.K. found this out along time ago, and it does indeed hold merrit.
As I said, just look thru the posted photos from the main page, and you
can see this on just about every jacket where there is a sideways shot.
This phenomenon is not as prevalent with jackets that have rib knitting
around the bottom like an A-2, or a baseball jacket.
These jackets by design are made to hug your hips to keep out breezes,
and because of this, the back will naturally tend to ride up slightly from
the jacket hugging your hips.
Its the same with a sweater or sweatshirt that has a good rib knitting
around the bottom. It will hug you and ride up in the back slightly unless
you keep pulling it down in back.
Now, if you buy a jacket, like our Indy style, with a straight hem, or if
you buy a sweater with a straight hem, it will just fall straight down your
back, and it will naturally sit slightly higher in the front than the back
because its no longer gripping your hips.
Again, to prove this to yourself, just take a shirt or sweater with a
straight bottom hem, and look at yourself in the mirror. What do you
see? On 90 percent of people, who stand up straight and do not slouch,
the front will be higher than the back.
Hope this helps.
Flathead
Flathead.