Pecard's Use Clarification
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Pecard's Use Clarification
I know this has been covered but I wanted confirmation on what I understand to be the right usage.
Pecard's Leather Lotion for Lambskin?
Pecard's Gel for Goatskin and Cowhide?
What about Horsehide? I have a couple of A-2 jackets I want to treat as well as my Indy Jackets.
Thanks
Pecard's Leather Lotion for Lambskin?
Pecard's Gel for Goatskin and Cowhide?
What about Horsehide? I have a couple of A-2 jackets I want to treat as well as my Indy Jackets.
Thanks
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The standard stuff can be too heavy for a leather jacket. It’s better for things like boots, straps, holsters, and belts. CheersMr. Das wrote:I got confused as well. It took me a few trips to the Pecards site to find the Jell link.
The IndyGear link of Pecard's site lists that all jackets except for Lamskin should use the standard stuff.
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Just to add my two cents to this topic...
For those who might want to know what the different Pecards
products look like, so you can tell what you are using, I wanted
to add this as follows:
1. The standard Pecards is called "Leather Dressing": It comes
in a round, short container with a pull off lid that resembles the kind
of container you get your car paste wax in that you use on your vehicles.
This "Leather Dressing" is a muted yellow color, and has the consistancy
of semi-hard car paste wax I mentioned above. It contains bees wax to aid in
the repellancy of water. It is used mostly for boots and other heavy
thick leathers. It may darken up light colored leathers depending
on the leather type. It goes on smooth, and takes awhile to soak in
to smooth leathers. When buffed, this product will produce a slight
shine to leather.
2. The Pecards "Leather Creame": This is what Michaelson calls the "Jell".
It comes in a black round container with a screw off lid. It is almost the
same exact color and consistancy as Vasoline. It does not contain the
bees wax as the standard Pecards has, and as such, its not as heavy
as the standard Pecards, and it goes on easier, and soaks in faster. It is
used for all types of leathers, and will soften up stiff leather like Goat
or buffalo after you apply it. It will also darken up lighter colored leathers
somewhat, and should be used sparingly. When buffed, it does not leave
a shine behind, as it mainly just soaks in, and penatrates the leather for
protection.
3. The Pecards "Leather Care Lotion": This is often refered to here as
the "Motorcycle lotion". It usually comes in a container that looks a small
jug with a handle at the top. It has a small screw off cap. It is the same
consistancy as hand creme. It is an off white color, and is used on all
smooth leathers and Vinyls. It will not darken up any leathers, and is
safe to use on white leather as well. This is the one I use for my
Lambskin jackets, as well as my Shearling flight jackets. It does not
add any weight to the jackets as the other two Pecards will do as this
does not "soak in" as much as the others do.
4. The Pecards "Boot Oil": This is a product that Pecards makes to
put on boots and shoes that are used specifically outdoors. It adds
waterproofing to leather, and will darken up just about anything it
touches. It is NOT for jackets and other finer garments. It is really
just to be used on boots and shoes.
I hope this will help anyone who wants to know the differences between
the different Pecards products. I have one of each of these, so I am
getting this information right off of the containers.
Flathead
For those who might want to know what the different Pecards
products look like, so you can tell what you are using, I wanted
to add this as follows:
1. The standard Pecards is called "Leather Dressing": It comes
in a round, short container with a pull off lid that resembles the kind
of container you get your car paste wax in that you use on your vehicles.
This "Leather Dressing" is a muted yellow color, and has the consistancy
of semi-hard car paste wax I mentioned above. It contains bees wax to aid in
the repellancy of water. It is used mostly for boots and other heavy
thick leathers. It may darken up light colored leathers depending
on the leather type. It goes on smooth, and takes awhile to soak in
to smooth leathers. When buffed, this product will produce a slight
shine to leather.
2. The Pecards "Leather Creame": This is what Michaelson calls the "Jell".
It comes in a black round container with a screw off lid. It is almost the
same exact color and consistancy as Vasoline. It does not contain the
bees wax as the standard Pecards has, and as such, its not as heavy
as the standard Pecards, and it goes on easier, and soaks in faster. It is
used for all types of leathers, and will soften up stiff leather like Goat
or buffalo after you apply it. It will also darken up lighter colored leathers
somewhat, and should be used sparingly. When buffed, it does not leave
a shine behind, as it mainly just soaks in, and penatrates the leather for
protection.
3. The Pecards "Leather Care Lotion": This is often refered to here as
the "Motorcycle lotion". It usually comes in a container that looks a small
jug with a handle at the top. It has a small screw off cap. It is the same
consistancy as hand creme. It is an off white color, and is used on all
smooth leathers and Vinyls. It will not darken up any leathers, and is
safe to use on white leather as well. This is the one I use for my
Lambskin jackets, as well as my Shearling flight jackets. It does not
add any weight to the jackets as the other two Pecards will do as this
does not "soak in" as much as the others do.
4. The Pecards "Boot Oil": This is a product that Pecards makes to
put on boots and shoes that are used specifically outdoors. It adds
waterproofing to leather, and will darken up just about anything it
touches. It is NOT for jackets and other finer garments. It is really
just to be used on boots and shoes.
I hope this will help anyone who wants to know the differences between
the different Pecards products. I have one of each of these, so I am
getting this information right off of the containers.
Flathead
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I had suggested the same thing for the new site update, which is being delayed. I have had the hardest time keeping them straight myself.
Perhaps a description with a picture beside it, and REALLY easy to use instructions, such as Lambskin=Leather Lotion. Although, that might insult some folks (not me!).
Peace,
Cliffhanger
Perhaps a description with a picture beside it, and REALLY easy to use instructions, such as Lambskin=Leather Lotion. Although, that might insult some folks (not me!).
Peace,
Cliffhanger
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They are NOT made out of bees wax. The standard Pecards hasIf the "Leather Creame" isn't made out of Bees Wax, what is it made out of?
SOME bees wax in it. It is made up of other stuff, and then
they add SOME bees wax to it to give it more water repellancy.
The "Leather Cream", which we here call the "Jell" is the
same stuff as the standard Pecards, but WITHOUT the bees
wax added to it.
It is made from the same other stuff, but because there is no
bees wax in it, it doesn't have the same "paste" consistency.
Thats why it has the same look and feel as Vasoline. Because
there is no bees wax in it, it soaks in to leather really quickly,
and darkens up any leather it comes in contact with.
But they aren't "made from bees wax", the standard one just
has some bees wax added.
Flathead
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Just to add a footnote here; Boot Oil may be used on jackets (even though Pecard's doesn't recommend it), but only when other products aren't doing the trick. Specifically, it does wonders when restoring an antique leather jacket that is dried out. I also used it on a new, very stiff horsehide jacket to soften it up. The key here is to not apply the Oil directly to the jacket, but to pour it on a cloth and swipe it on the leather. If you apply it directly to the leather it may stain it (because it darkens the leather), but you can control that by using an applicator cloth. I apply very light coats, and let it dry in between coats.FLATHEAD wrote: 4. The Pecards "Boot Oil": This is a product that Pecards makes to
put on boots and shoes that are used specifically outdoors. It adds
waterproofing to leather, and will darken up just about anything it
touches. It is NOT for jackets and other finer garments. It is really
just to be used on boots and shoes.
Flathead
Best to all,
plynck
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I would not be offended. I think it's a great idea! I mean, just think about how many visitors view the main site and don't 'come in' to the Club for a discussion. The chart on the main site would help visitors as well as COW members.cliffhanger wrote:I had suggested the same thing for the new site update, which is being delayed. I have had the hardest time keeping them straight myself.
Perhaps a description with a picture beside it, and REALLY easy to use instructions, such as Lambskin=Leather Lotion. Although, that might insult some folks (not me!).
Peace,
Cliffhanger
Thank you, FLATHEAD for the summaries. That was extremely helpful! BTW, if the Leather Creame/gel doesn't have any bees wax in it, is the Creame/gel still adding water-repellancy to the leather to which it is applied? I will be buying a Pecard tub next week for my pre-distressed cows and want to get the best product.
I.J.
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According the container that the Cream/Jell comes in, it does not sayif the Leather Creame/gel doesn't have any bees wax in it, is the Creame/gel still adding water-repellancy to the leather to which it is applied?
that it adds any water repellancy. The container that the Standard
Pecards Dressing comes in does say that the dressing does add water
repellancy, but the Cream/Jell does not.
Since the Cream/Jell does not contain any bees wax, it is more of a
leather protectant. The Standard Pecards dressing, and the Boot oil are
the ones that say they add water repellancy.
Pecards is available to everyone in the WORLD online!! Just do a searchI have a hard time finding any Pecard product in St. Louis
for "Pecards leather care" with any browser you have, and you will come
up with their website. I have ordered from them several times and its
very easy to do.
Here is what I was told is the "Normal" application for Pecards products.
I hope this helps some people:
1. Pecards Standard Dressing: Used on heavy leathers such as
Cow, buffalo and horse hides that are very grainy. Not recommended for
smoother leathers such as Lamb, deer or Kangaroo or any smooth
vinyls.
It is especially used on Boots, shoes, and other items that are exposed
to the elements. It adds water repellancy to the
leather and the seams. We can use it on our Cowhide Indy jackets, and
other cowhide jackets and buffalo and horse hide jackets.
It will slightly darken some lighter colored leathers. It will soak in to
distressed leather, and help to repair the distressed areas, and
add back in the lost oils of the leather. Any darkened
areas from this application will lighten up again as the dressing dries, but
these areas will not be as light as before the application. They will be
slightly darker after it dries in these areas. It will leave behind the
leather protection and water repellancy. This is good for people who
want to protect their distressed leather jackets, and still keep the
distressed look, but wear their jackets in the rain.
2. Pecards Cream/Jell: This can be used on ALL leathers, but it
will darken up any distressed areas to the point where the leather will
not look too distressed any longer.
It contains no bees wax, so it does not add any water repellancy to the leather. It
is for adding leather protection to all leathers, whether they are smooth,
grainy, or very grainy. Because it contains no waxes, it will soak in very
quickly, and it WILL darken all leathers, especially lighter colored leathers.
Because it does soak in so well, it is also used to help soften stiff leathers,
such as Cowhide, Goatskin, Buffalo hide, and Horsehide. This helps in getting your
jacket to that "lived in look" much quicker. If you add this to a pre-distressed
jacket, it will darken up the distressed areas quite a bit, and they will
not look as distressed anymore. If you don't want to darken up your
distressed jacket, don't use this on it as it will take away most of the
distressed look to the leather.
3. Pecards Leather Lotion: This is specifically made for all smooth
leathers such as Shearling jackets, and all vinyls. It can be used on all
other leathers, whether they are heavy grain or not. It can be used
on all distressed jackets, and it will leave that nice distressed look to
the leather while adding in the leather protection.
It is used mainly to keep leather looking new, and keeping the oils in
the leather.
It adds protection to leathers such as Shearling jackets
and other smooth jackets with no heavy grain. It is also made for all
color leathers, including white! It will not darken leather as the others
do, so it is great for lighter colored leathers too. You can use this lotion,
which is sometimes refered to on this forum as "Motorcycle lotion" on
all the leather products you have. It can be used on Cow, Lamb, Buffalo,
Horse, Goat, Deer and all your vinyl needs. It is used to add back in the oils
that normal wear takes away. It is very good at keeping a jacket, no
matter what its made out of, looking its best without darkening the leather.
You can use this on your pre-distressed jackets without the fear of taking
away the nice lighter markings and areas that you tried so hard to get!
4. Pecards Boot Oil: This is used for adding water repellancy to leather that is used outside alot.
It will darken anything it touches, and it really
should not be used on jackets. It CAN be used on jackets, as some
have stated, but if you are not REALLY careful, you can darken up spots
that you don't want to darken if you use this on jackets. It is in a liquid
form, and as such, goes on really fast, and soaks in VERY quickly! This
is why it will darken any leather it touches. You should NOT use it on
any light colored leather unless you don't care if it turns dark.
I know this is not in a "chart" form, but I got this info right from the
containers, and Pecards own website.
Flathead
Based on all the information I gathered here, I ordered both the "Standard" and the "Cream" from Pecard's website. I received my package in just about three days and they added a small bottle of the "Boot Oil" as a freebee . I used the Cream on my Wested Goat and I'm very pleased with results. I did the same to a new leather coat my wife got and also had very good results. The Standard Dressing I used on an older Cooper A2 that has never been treated but is in nice shape even though it's about 7 years old. Also I used the standard on a "Cafe Racer" motorcyle jacket that I know I've had since about 1979. Again, seems like great stuff, this jacket was a bit "dry" and the leather is heavy and the jacket was starting to get stiff, the Picards did a very nice job. It will get a least a second treatment but this is great stuff,thanks for the information.
Rick
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So, the bottom line is that if I desire water-repellancy for my cowhide, I need to go with the Standard Dressing but be aware that it will make the jacket a lot heavier. Also, the distressed areas will eventually show through as lighter than the rest of the jacket but they'll be darker than before the application.FLATHEAD wrote:Here is what I was told is the "Normal" application for Pecards products. I hope this helps some people:
1. Pecards Standard Dressing: Used on heavy leathers such as
Cow, buffalo and horse hides that are very grainy. Not recommended for
smoother leathers such as Lamb, deer or Kangaroo or any smooth
vinyls.
It is especially used on Boots, shoes, and other items that are exposed
to the elements. It adds water repellancy to the leather and the seams. We can use it on our Cowhide Indy jackets, and other cowhide jackets and buffalo and horse hide jackets. It will slightly darken some lighter colored leathers. It will soak in to distressed leather, and help to repair the distressed areas, and add back in the lost oils of the leather. Any darkened areas from this application will lighten up again as the dressing dries, but these areas will not be as light as before the application. They will be slightly darker after it dries in these areas. It will leave behind the leather protection and water repellancy. This is good for people who want to protect their distressed leather jackets, and still keep the distressed look, but wear their jackets in the rain.
2. Pecards Cream/Jell: This can be used on ALL leathers, but it
will darken up any distressed areas to the point where the leather will
not look too distressed any longer.
It contains no bees wax, so it does not add any water repellancy to the leather. It is for adding leather protection to all leathers, whether they are smooth, grainy, or very grainy. Because it contains no waxes, it will soak in very quickly, and it WILL darken all leathers, especially lighter colored leathers. Because it does soak in so well, it is also used to help soften stiff leathers, such as Cowhide, Goatskin, Buffalo hide, and Horsehide. This helps in getting your jacket to that "lived in look" much quicker. If you add this to a pre-distressed jacket, it will darken up the distressed areas quite a bit, and they will not look as distressed anymore. If you don't want to darken up your distressed jacket, don't use this on it as it will take away most of the distressed look to the leather.
However, if I want protection for my cowhide but not water-repellancy, then I should go with the Jell and know it will darken the jacket's distressed areas a lot.
So, if I should find myself unexpectedly caught in a rainshower this winter, I'm thinking I'd like the confidence of knowing that my Indy jacket is protected from the rain (not as a raincoat!) when running to the car, into the house etc. I'm thinking most of us want that same assurity. So, why apply the Jell to my cowhide jacket if it doesn't provide the water-repellancy? I would use the Standard dressing since it has beeswax.
In trying to understand why I would purchase the water-soluble Jell, perhaps I would use the Jell on my gunbelt, hoster, whip, etc. but use the Standard on the jacket and boots since they'd be the leather items most likely to encounter water? Am I on the right track?
I.J.
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Bingo!! You nailed it!! If you want the water repellancy, go withSo, the bottom line is that if I desire water-repellancy for my cowhide, I need to go with the Standard Dressing but be aware that it will make the jacket a lot heavier. Also, the distressed areas will eventually show through as lighter than the rest of the jacket but they'll be darker than before the application.
However, if I want protection for my cowhide but not water-repellancy, then I should go with the Jell and know it will darken the jacket's distressed areas a lot.
the Dressing with the bees wax. It will do the job. It will add some
weight as you say, but it will let your distressed areas stand out better.
You want to apply the Jell/Cream to your cowhide to protect the leather fromSo, why apply the Jell to my cowhide jacket if it doesn't provide the water-repellancy?
getting dry. The Jell/Cream is for the leathers protection, not yours.
Leather jackets are not really meant to be worn in the rain. The leather
will get dry and loose its natural oils after it goes thru a wet/dry cycle
a few times. If you want to protect the leather, use the Jell/Cream on
Cow. If you want to add a bit of protection from the rain, then add
the Dressing, but you are also adding weight too. Personally, if you think
you are going to be wearing the jacket in the rain, and you like the
distressed look of parts of the jacket, then you want to use the Dressing
with the bees wax. If you are like me, and use an umbrella when it
rains, and you don't like your jackets to have any more extra weight
to them, then use the Jell/Cream.
Also, the Jell/Cream will only soak in so much, and then you will know
when you have applied too much, as it will look wet on the surface, and
no more will soak in. At this point, you just wipe off the excess, and your
done. On the other hand, if you use too much of the Dressing, it can
look o.k. at first, but then you can get a kind of off-white look to the jacket
as there is too much bees wax on it, and it has no where to go. Ask
Michaelson about this. He knows, and he has a way to remove the
excess Dressing.
You could not be more right!! You are now a graduate of the PecardsIn trying to understand why I would purchase the water-soluble Jell, perhaps I would use the Jell on my gunbelt, hoster, whip, etc. but use the Standard on the jacket and boots since they'd be the leather items most likely to encounter water? Am I on the right track?
school!! Have a beer and sit back and watch your leather items take on
the elements with sheer abandon!!
Now this people, is a person who does his homework, and gets an "A"
in Pecards class!!
Flathead
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Well, a few days ago I went to the Pecard site and saw the Indy link. Unfortunately, I just blindly ordered the only two suggestions that are offered for the Indy jackets, the "Standard Dressing" and the "Leather Lotion."
After re-visiting this thread, it appears that I really wanted the "Jell Dressing" for my pre-distressed Wested cowhide since the "Jell Dressing" will darken it up but the "Leather Lotion" will not darken the leather. At least I can use the "Leather Lotion" for my lambskin jackets!
I.J.
After re-visiting this thread, it appears that I really wanted the "Jell Dressing" for my pre-distressed Wested cowhide since the "Jell Dressing" will darken it up but the "Leather Lotion" will not darken the leather. At least I can use the "Leather Lotion" for my lambskin jackets!
I.J.
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From what I can see, its kind of a cross between the Jell and
the standard dressing, with some of the Boot oil stuff added
in. The antique Dressing is for really dry leathers, that have been
left untreated for years. Its made to soak into the exposed, dry
areas, what we here call "distessed" and it bonds to the leather
fibers to help protect and nurish them. It doesn't appear to have
the quantity of bees wax in it that the standard dressing has, but
it has a little bit of it, which the jell does not have.
The Jell will absorb into the leather to a point, and then, you
will know you have put on too much because it will not soak in
anymore, and just sit there on the surface of the leather.
I have done this on a Buffalo hide jacket I have. I put on the
Jell on one sleeve pretty heavy, and very lightly on the other
sleeve just to see what would happen.
Overnight, the sleeve with the light application soaked right in,
and it looked like I never added any at all, except for the fact
that you could feel a difference in the leather. It looked just
the same as the rest of the jacket, but it was a little more relaxed,
and not as stiff as the rest of the jacket.
The sleeve I soak with a heavy coating, still looked wet overall
the next day. The leather only soaked in so much, and left the
rest on the surface of the sleeve.
I had to wipe off the excess, and after about an hour or so,
both sleeves looked the same.
The Jell is good stuff! Unless you have a really old jacket, that
has been neglected over a long period of time, I would recommend
the Jell for your jackets.
The Standard Dressing is more for if you want to add some water
repellancy to a heavier leather like Cowhide.
Flathead
the standard dressing, with some of the Boot oil stuff added
in. The antique Dressing is for really dry leathers, that have been
left untreated for years. Its made to soak into the exposed, dry
areas, what we here call "distessed" and it bonds to the leather
fibers to help protect and nurish them. It doesn't appear to have
the quantity of bees wax in it that the standard dressing has, but
it has a little bit of it, which the jell does not have.
The Jell will absorb into the leather to a point, and then, you
will know you have put on too much because it will not soak in
anymore, and just sit there on the surface of the leather.
I have done this on a Buffalo hide jacket I have. I put on the
Jell on one sleeve pretty heavy, and very lightly on the other
sleeve just to see what would happen.
Overnight, the sleeve with the light application soaked right in,
and it looked like I never added any at all, except for the fact
that you could feel a difference in the leather. It looked just
the same as the rest of the jacket, but it was a little more relaxed,
and not as stiff as the rest of the jacket.
The sleeve I soak with a heavy coating, still looked wet overall
the next day. The leather only soaked in so much, and left the
rest on the surface of the sleeve.
I had to wipe off the excess, and after about an hour or so,
both sleeves looked the same.
The Jell is good stuff! Unless you have a really old jacket, that
has been neglected over a long period of time, I would recommend
the Jell for your jackets.
The Standard Dressing is more for if you want to add some water
repellancy to a heavier leather like Cowhide.
Flathead
last night I bought a tub of this stuff (16oz)
http://northernwhipco.com/images/pecard ... ssing2.jpg
from jim markell at ec whips. Is it ok to use on my
cow hide jacket?
mola
http://northernwhipco.com/images/pecard ... ssing2.jpg
from jim markell at ec whips. Is it ok to use on my
cow hide jacket?
mola
Last edited by Mola Ram on Tue Jan 20, 2004 3:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Yes, the Standard Dressing is fine for the Cowhide. It will add someIs it ok to use on my
cow hide jacket?
mola
weight to the jacket, as well as a degree of water repellancy.
Use the dressing VERY sparingly!! Use your fingers to apply it, not
a rag! Just put two fingers together, and swirl them around in the Dressing.
Then apply it to your jacket. A circular motion is best. Spread it
around really good, and don't worry about the leather getting darker
in color as you see it start to penetrate the leather. This is normal
for the Dressing and the Jell. It will stay darker for awhile after you
apply this stuff, but after a few days, it will usually return to the color
it started out as. It may stay slightly darker depending on how often
you use the Dressing.
Its best to apply the Dressing and Jell on one half of your jacket at
a time. This way, you can work on the jacket while its laying flat
on your bed, a table, or even the floor. You should put a towel under
it too, so you don't get the Dressing on anything else.
I personally like to do a section of the jacket at a time. Like the sleeves
one day, then the front of the jacket the next day, and then the back of
the jacket the third day.
If you do to much at once, you will end up slopping the stuff all over
the place.
Once you apply the Dressing to your part of the jacket that you are
doing, let it dry overnight, and then come back and use a towel to take
off any remaining Dressing. If you rub the jacket alot, you can get the
Dressing to form a slight shine. Its up to you if you want to do this. The
more you rub, the shinier it will get.
Flathead
- Michaelson
- Knower of Things
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Standard Pecards dressing can add a lot of extra physical weight, as you're replacing the removed oils to the leather fiber that was lost during the distressing process (whether natural OR artifically removed). That's why I (and now Pecards) strongly advise ever applying the standard dressing or jell to smooth skins such as lambskin, especially when that' s one of the main reasons folks buy lambskin jackets....they're light weight. Standard Pecards makes them feel about twice the original delivered weight.
If you want faster results in application of Pecards, though, hang your jacket on a form fitting wooden suit hanger (available from Lowes or WalMart) with the zipper zipped closed, then hang your jacket on your shower bar in your bathroom. Apply Pecards dressing, jell, or leather lotion (which ever you're using at the time) on the ENTIRE jacket, as you'll be able to turn the jacket around on the hanger at will, and have no fear of getting any product on anything but the jacket. You'll find that the bathroom is the best room for this job, as it seems to naturally be the warmest room in the house. Check the next morning to see if how much product has soaked in. Sometimes it requires at least 24 hours for the leather to absorb as much product as possible, but as Flathead says, once you've hit the level YOU want, towel off the excess with a clean dry cotton cloth, then buff with another clean dry cloth. I've found an old tee shirt to be the best medium. If you're REALLY wanting a glow, use some old panty hose and lightly buff the surface, and you're done. This takes me about 20 minutes to do apply for an entire jacket, and about 15 to finish when the product has soaked in.
If you've OVER done the application and have TO much Pecards leather dressing on your jacket (and this ONLY applies to the dressing), use a hairdryer on the lowest heat setting and hold over the areas you want to reduce the dressing at. You'll see the dressing liquify on the surface, then wipe off with that clean cotton tee shirt. You're done!
Regards. Michaelson
If you want faster results in application of Pecards, though, hang your jacket on a form fitting wooden suit hanger (available from Lowes or WalMart) with the zipper zipped closed, then hang your jacket on your shower bar in your bathroom. Apply Pecards dressing, jell, or leather lotion (which ever you're using at the time) on the ENTIRE jacket, as you'll be able to turn the jacket around on the hanger at will, and have no fear of getting any product on anything but the jacket. You'll find that the bathroom is the best room for this job, as it seems to naturally be the warmest room in the house. Check the next morning to see if how much product has soaked in. Sometimes it requires at least 24 hours for the leather to absorb as much product as possible, but as Flathead says, once you've hit the level YOU want, towel off the excess with a clean dry cotton cloth, then buff with another clean dry cloth. I've found an old tee shirt to be the best medium. If you're REALLY wanting a glow, use some old panty hose and lightly buff the surface, and you're done. This takes me about 20 minutes to do apply for an entire jacket, and about 15 to finish when the product has soaked in.
If you've OVER done the application and have TO much Pecards leather dressing on your jacket (and this ONLY applies to the dressing), use a hairdryer on the lowest heat setting and hold over the areas you want to reduce the dressing at. You'll see the dressing liquify on the surface, then wipe off with that clean cotton tee shirt. You're done!
Regards. Michaelson
- IndyBlues
- Museum Curator
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- Location: Inside a really nice jacket.
- Contact:
http://www.pecard.com/
Click here, and scroll down on the menu to the left, click on Indy Gear Fans.
Click here, and scroll down on the menu to the left, click on Indy Gear Fans.
- Michaelson
- Knower of Things
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- Joined: Tue Jun 25, 2002 12:55 pm
- Location: Out here knowing stuff and things and wishing I were with the family at Universal Studios Orlando
- IndyBlues
- Museum Curator
- Posts: 1523
- Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2003 8:27 pm
- Location: Inside a really nice jacket.
- Contact:
There are many souces to get a replica Indiana Jones jacket but there are generally just two different products you would use on them.
For the Wested lambskin jacket you would use the Leather Lotion since the leather is so absorbent and would be weighted down by the oil based Leather Dressing. All the other jackets would use the Leather Dressing.
What part didn't you understand?
For the Wested lambskin jacket you would use the Leather Lotion since the leather is so absorbent and would be weighted down by the oil based Leather Dressing. All the other jackets would use the Leather Dressing.
What part didn't you understand?
- Sergei
- Admin Emeritus
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Here's another tip for usage of the Standard Dressing product. You can really apply a super thin coat on your jackets without adding too much weight by laying out the Pecards in sunlight. In about 10 minutes, it will be liquid. Just lightly spread the liquified Pecards onto the Jacket. A little goes a long way.
-Sergei
p.s. Shhhhhh....BTW, I do the same technique for my whips. I don't want Michaelson to hear me or he'll give me so much @#$% for posting whip info on a jacket forum.... Shhhhh....
-Sergei
p.s. Shhhhhh....BTW, I do the same technique for my whips. I don't want Michaelson to hear me or he'll give me so much @#$% for posting whip info on a jacket forum.... Shhhhh....
- Michaelson
- Knower of Things
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I also just use jell on goatskin, and NEVER standard dressing, as I've found goatskin to be a much tighter grained leather, and therefore makes goatskin pretty tacky in feel after it's absorbed what it's going to absorb. You'll read that you can't cross lotion with any of the standards too, and for the most part that's correct, but I've discovered that I can apply lotion to a leather after using the jell with no problems. This isn't the case with standards dressing, as it contains beeswax, and will NOT allow the lotion to penetrate. Technically the jell shouldn't either, being a petroleum based product, but so far no problems for this writer. Regards. Michaelson
ps. Whips!!?? Did somebody say 'whips' in the jacket area??!!!!
ps. Whips!!?? Did somebody say 'whips' in the jacket area??!!!!
- Michaelson
- Knower of Things
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- Indiana Grendel
- Field Surveyor
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- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 12:38 pm
- Location: Lone Star Dig Site
Thanks for the walkthrough Michaelson!
I got my predistressed cowhide a few weeks ago, and put Pecard's dressing on it about 10 days ago. I put on too much, but went back each day to remove excess and massage it in. It's almost comepletely dry now, just a little tacky feeling. (We've had wet, cool weather here in my part of Texas, so I figured it would take a while.) If it's not completely dry soon, I may hit it with a hair dryer (after getting a hair dryer) to remove the last of it.
Thanks again for all the info!
IG
I got my predistressed cowhide a few weeks ago, and put Pecard's dressing on it about 10 days ago. I put on too much, but went back each day to remove excess and massage it in. It's almost comepletely dry now, just a little tacky feeling. (We've had wet, cool weather here in my part of Texas, so I figured it would take a while.) If it's not completely dry soon, I may hit it with a hair dryer (after getting a hair dryer) to remove the last of it.
Thanks again for all the info!
IG
- JerseyJones
- Vendor
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I opted to use a VERY VERY light, finger applied coating of regular dressing on my goat. It is presently hanging up in a warm room and shall for a day or two.
It went on shiny and once I had it all coated I buffed off any excess and it look essentially the same as when I got it.
I really want water resistance, being in the NE USA, and I actually LIKE a heavier jacket on my large frame.
But again the key words VERY VERY LIGHT ! :!: Less is more with any dressing/polish and you can almost always add over subtract.
Ken / JJ
It went on shiny and once I had it all coated I buffed off any excess and it look essentially the same as when I got it.
I really want water resistance, being in the NE USA, and I actually LIKE a heavier jacket on my large frame.
But again the key words VERY VERY LIGHT ! :!: Less is more with any dressing/polish and you can almost always add over subtract.
Ken / JJ