Club Obi Wan

I was thinking I might stop messing around with less-expensive jackets and finally save up for one of the pricier ones I've wanted, narrowing it down to either a Magnoli or Expo. So, I've been reading around here about them but I have a couple questions on the Expo that I haven't found answers to.

I've seen threads saying/showing that the older veg-tanned goat Expos distressed beautifully and the newer chrome-tanned ones look new for years. But is it actually possible for the chrome-tanned ones to distress eventually? They aren't dyed all the way through or anything, are they? (I think I'll request some samples and try distressing them just to see what happens but I was wondering if anyone's chrome-tanned Expo has actually shown natural distressing yet, and how long it took)

Other question is, is there ever any noticeable loss of sleeve length for any reason (such as taking on permanent wrinkles)?

Regarding the distressing, here's a 4 page discussion about that very thing, and there are more on a search:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48537&hilit=distressing+Expedition" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As with any leather jacket, you're going to experience some sleeve loss in length at the elbows from regular use.

It all depends on how long your sleeves start out as to where the end of the cuffs will eventually end up from that loss.

Speaking for myself, I have not noticed or experienced any unusual or undue loss of length from wear, but then they started out a nice long length from the get-go, and that loss was un-noticable.

That's why it's always suggested to start out with sleeves that start out at your first knuckle of your thumb in length. When the sleeve rides up with regular wear, the cuff will end up being just below your wrist when your arm is bent, where it belongs.

All that rambling aside, the answer is 'no', there's nothing different about the Expedition that you don't experience with any other jacket out there. It depends on the length you start out with that results in where it ends up after regular wear.

Hope that made some kind of sense.

Regards! Michaelson

Just from what little I've seen, the chrome-tanned do, indeed, seem to be dyed all the way through...hence the fact that no matter how broken in they get, they seem to never look distressed.

Not so with the veg-tanned.

And I've not personally experienced any sleeve length loss either.

For what it's worth.

Oh, and FYI...there are a couple of Expos in the Bazaar right now

I have a chrome-tanned goatskin Expedition that's about 2 years old, and the only places that's started to show some natural distressing are the straps (I've lost weight and have had to tighten them quite a lot). I have taken some photos of the more worn strap. This is a fairly new camera, and I'm still working on finding the best settings, so apologies for the flash in this:

http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w325 ... G_0363.jpg
http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w325 ... G_0362.jpg

Also, you may have seen this thread on Expeditions, but it's worth a look. Check out page 3 with Canasta's jacket--I don't remember if it's a veg-tanned or chrome-tanned goatskin: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48537

I haven't experienced significant ride-up with the sleeves. Just now checking, with my arms at rest, the cuff comes down to the thumb knuckle closest to my wrist. When arms are up 90 degrees to the rest of my body, the cuffs are right at the wrist.

Hope this helps!

Best wishes,
Nebraska Schulte

Nebraska Schulte wrote:I haven't experienced significant ride-up with the sleeves. Just now checking, with my arms at rest, the cuff comes down to the thumb knuckle closest to my wrist. When arms are up 90 degrees to the rest of my body, the cuffs are right at the wrist.

Exactly as they should be!

Regards! Michaelson

I have never owned an Expo, but I have the A-2 and M-442A flight jackets from them and the quality is top shelf. Same to be said of my Magnoli X-men jacket, quality the same! Now it is just a flip of the coin or the wallet! Good luck

If you're the right size, there are a couple for sale in the classified ads right now for a LOT less than ordering a brand new one.

Regards! Michaelson

Let's look at it, Mag or G&B? I assume you want a Raiders styled jacket, since you are considering G&B?

Magnoli's Raiders jacket would be Version A. The base price of $499 will get you into one made of goatskin, $100 more for lamb and $200 more for cow. His leather technician does quality work, and will honor a list of your own specs.

To note, a member has put his up for sale at a bargain:
http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=52255" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

On the other hand, G&B. The Expedition is known for its rugged construction, real world reliability AND warranties to back it up. I would say that any member should consider owning one, at least once. I've owned three and two are still with me. This last goathide jacket tops them all.

Distressing. The Expedition is tough to distress, no doubt about it, but my lambskin jacket is naturally distressing quite well. Either way, a goathide jacket will be tough to distress in general.

Can't go wrong with either, just depends on what you are looking for?

Magnoli's work may well be good but it's outsourced in Asia. I would go American and get a G&B. Good to support the economy at this time.

The chrome dyed develops a nice sheen and softness that can't be captured in a photo. After 3 years mine is broken in and lovely. The dye has worn right off where I have rubbed against rough surfaces.

Thanks for all the answers...

Actually, though, if I go with Magnoli I'd probably get the LC style. That's part of the tough decision. Aargh!

The reason I want to know about the sleeve issue - I contacted G&B a while back about sleeves, when I had been thinking about saving for one (I've wanted one for a good while now). They told me that for my size (42) the sleeve length was 35.5 on the tall, and that for $90 more I could get extra-tall sleeves for a total of 37 inches. 37 would be just adequate, assuming they never shrank (I have long arms ). So, they did say sleeves longer than that could be had, but I'd have to pay the $200 full-custom fee, which seems a bit much for an extra inch or so in the sleeves and probably no other changes.

But, having the distressing issue clarified keeps it a tough decision in spite of the sleeves... (I don't want to artificially distress it but I do really like it when a leather jacket shows some distressed spots with wear).

PsychicsAndSwords wrote:Thanks for all the answers...

Actually, though, if I go with Magnoli I'd probably get the LC style. That's part of the tough decision. Aargh!

The reason I want to know about the sleeve issue - I contacted G&B a while back about sleeves, when I had been thinking about saving for one (I've wanted one for a good while now). They told me that for my size (42) the sleeve length was 35.5 on the tall, and that for $90 more I could get extra-tall sleeves for a total of 37 inches. 37 would be just adequate, assuming they never shrank (I have long arms ). So, they did say sleeves longer than that could be had, but I'd have to pay the $200 full-custom fee, which seems a bit much for an extra inch or so in the sleeves and probably no other changes.

But, having the distressing issue clarified keeps it a tough decision in spite of the sleeves... (I don't want to artificially distress it but I do really like it when a leather jacket shows some distressed spots with wear).

Keep in mind that with the Expedition, it also "falls off the shoulders", which may give more length. Here are a couple of examples:



Back zipped:


The tailoring that Magnoli's jackets get would certainly solve the problem. I've never handled any of Magnoli's jackets, but I've heard nothing but good things about the quality of them. I can only say that my Expedition has been by far the best jacket I've ever owned, and for what it's worth, I'd agree with _'s comments about the Expeditions being "heirloom-quality".

You are choosing between 2 great choices, and IMHO, I don't thing you can go wrong either way.

Best wishes,
Nebraska Schulte

In my experience, the sleeves on a G&B are too short (including long sizes) and the shoulders are too wide. If you have long arms, the Expedition is probably not for you. (I wear an off-the-rack 40L in jackets and a 35" sleeve in dress shirts, and both of my Expo 40Ls had sleeves that were too short -- a problem that only gets worse as the leather in the sleeves wrinkles up. This was true of both the lamb and goat.)

Tundy, you got that counter runnin' and I'm impressed!

...gotta back up the Lexol point. It really helps with softening goathide.

$90 and extra tall sleeves might be the way to go?

If I were to order a LC jacket again, I might be tempted to get it in lamb, and thickest possible, though. This jacket on the website (first photo) is one of the best I've ever seen in re-creating the LC vibe:

http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/adventu ... p-109.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

Pocket placement and size, shape & width of the flaps, collar config. and width of the storm flap play key roles in the overall look of the LC jacket. I look at the jacket on the website and all I would have changed on it would have been the width of the pocket flaps and position of the straps.

we're freaks aren't we...? Absolute freaks!

Texan Scott wrote:Tundy, you got that counter runnin' and I'm impressed!

...gotta back up the Lexol point. It really helps with softening goathide.

$90 and extra tall sleeves might be the way to go?

If I were to order a LC jacket again, I might be tempted to get it in lamb, and thickest possible, though. This jacket on the website (first photo) is one of the best I've ever seen in re-creating the LC vibe:

http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/adventu ... p-109.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

Pocket placement and size, shape & width of the flaps, collar config. and width of the storm flap play key roles in the overall look of the LC jacket. I look at the jacket on the website and all I would have changed on it would have been the width of the pocket flaps and position of the straps.

we're freaks aren't we...? Absolute freaks!

That pattern is said to have been traced off an actual LC production jacket so it should be accurate. I got to say in that photo it deosnt; look all that right to me pocket wise. Flap isn't deep enough IMO.