Club Obi Wan

Ok so this could be interesting, it's part for me, part as just a curiosity thing.

Ok so , I know most people construct indy whips differently, so unless there's people here that are keeping their internal

construction secret, I'd like you to describe basically measurements of your standard 8' 8" handle indy whip, and how many sq.

ft. of hide it typically takes you, as well as what type of hide you usually use.

I'm not only trying to find different idea's, but I think it would be interesting to see how everybody does it , and maybe the usuals

can try each other's methods.

Hi. I make them pretty much the same as most people do them: core and bolsters of a thin leather other than kangaroo, and the plaited parts in kangaroo; two 4 plait bellies and a 12-plait overlay.

I've read some people just use around 55-58 dm2 of kangaroo for an 8ft bullwhip, but when I tried to use that amount, I learned it wasn't enough. I used a 73dm2 hide for an 8 footer and ran short for the overlay. It ended up being around 7ft long. So, at least from my point of view, I'd go for some 80dm2 or more, if possible. You can make a 6 foot half plait kangaroo hide stockwhip (core and bolsters from some other leather) with 55dm2, and you get a small oval left, and stockwhips are way thinner than bullwhips.

Of course, it all depends on how thick you make the whip, how much you waste when cutting it out, etc. If this is your first whip, I'd recommend going for a larger amount of leather to avoid running short. I'm still figuring out how to make the least amount of waste, but I do prefer wasting more and getting things done correctly right now and not the other way around.

Hope that helps,

Aldo.

By the way, PM sent.

Aldo.

Marhala wrote:Hi. I make them pretty much the same as most people do them: core and bolsters of a thin leather other than kangaroo, and the plaited parts in kangaroo; two 4 plait bellies and a 12-plait overlay.

I've read some people just use around 55-58 dm2 of kangaroo for an 8ft bullwhip, but when I tried to use that amount, I learned it wasn't enough. I used a 73dm2 hide for an 8 footer and ran short for the overlay. It ended up being around 7ft long. So, at least from my point of view, I'd go for some 80dm2 or more, if possible. You can make a 6 foot half plait kangaroo hide stockwhip (core and bolsters from some other leather) with 55dm2, and you get a small oval left, and stockwhips are way thinner than bullwhips.

Of course, it all depends on how thick you make the whip, how much you waste when cutting it out, etc. If this is your first whip, I'd recommend going for a larger amount of leather to avoid running short. I'm still figuring out how to make the least amount of waste, but I do prefer wasting more and getting things done correctly right now and not the other way around.

Hope that helps,

Aldo.

Cool. I am about to do my first leather whip, though I have made a nylon, and two out of vinyl ( more practice than anything )

My leather splitter just came in yesterday and when I find some good leather ( I think i'll be using a cowhide side to get

more than one whip out of it, plus will be able to use it for a bolster ) I'll be buying some more stuff.

I'm wanting to cut out my strands by hand, but haven't found a video on it ( read Braiding Fine Leather by David Morgan )

but i'd like a visual aid, if anyone here is able to, could someone make a little video of cutting strands by hand. If all things

fail I'll just buy and aussie strander and cut with that for a while.

Thanks for the info in your pm also I liked it

Ditto than Marhalla.

You should ask Louie Foxx about this, he has made many cowhide bullwhips and could probably give you some good pointers.

Franco

Canuck Digger wrote:Ditto than Marhalla.

You should ask Louie Foxx about this, he has made many cowhide bullwhips and could probably give you some good pointers.

Franco

I'm just going to use cowhide until I get used to cutting and beveling strands. As well as just working with leather in general. After

that I plan on using kangaroo.

Here's an old video of me freehand cutting: http://youtu.be/58S3IOJRcOU

Honestly how I cut now looks nothing like that...it's much faster, my pulls are much longer, keep a lot more tension on the strand, etc.

Also for what it's worth veg tanned drum stuffed kangaroo is easier to cut and bevel than cow. So I recommend learning on that. I think of it like this, it's easier to learn to drive stick shift on a brand new car than a 1974 Datsun that's missing second gear. You can learn to do it on the Datsun, buy you'll learn faster with the new car.

Here's a little thing I wrote a while ago about cowhide vs kangaroo: http://bullwhips.org/?p=2200

Louie

louiefoxx wrote:Here's an old video of me freehand cutting: http://youtu.be/58S3IOJRcOU

Honestly how I cut now looks nothing like that...it's much faster, my pulls are much longer, keep a lot more tension on the strand, etc.

Also for what it's worth veg tanned drum stuffed kangaroo is easier to cut and bevel than cow. So I recommend learning on that. I think of it like this, it's easier to learn to drive stick shift on a brand new car than a 1974 Datsun that's missing second gear. You can learn to do it on the Datsun, buy you'll learn faster with the new car.

Here's a little thing I wrote a while ago about cowhide vs kangaroo: http://bullwhips.org/?p=2200

Louie

Roo is so much more expensive though... I plan on using roo eventually, and wish I could afford to learn on roo, but I think that

I'll learn on some cowhide.

thanks for the video though, Now I at least know what it looks like I'll order my hide, try some cutting on it, if after a

little while feel comfortable with it, I won't order my aussie strander.

Thanks again for the video