Club Obi Wan

I haven't seen a comparison between these 2, but I wanted to ask the members, specially those who have the fortune to posses both, which one is better? taking into account:

-Sizing
-Fit
-Durability
-S.A.
-Value for price
-Quality and construction

I have read a lot of positive comments about both, but you guys are the ones who know best. Thanks in advance!

Be curious to see a comparison of the two myself. I've experienced GB for years, but have not seen a USwings Legend in person. The bison they have looks appealing and the Schott quality along with the good things I hear about USwings makes it tempting as well.

If I could choose only one...G&B goat. It will last you a lifetime, all things considered. These jackets are made to fill needs in different segments of the market, though. In the $200 range, the USW Legend or Hero, and the US made to military specs. G&B, for $500. Currently, I like the choice of hides that US Wings is offering vs. possibly the toughest wearing, best made Indy jackets on the market in G&B. Fit is not an issue when you can size up or down accordingly.

Currently I'm saving up to buy one of these, but I'm leaning a bit more towards the G&B... My only problem is that I'm quite a small dude (5'4" 120 lbs, size 36) and I'm under the impression that G&B run quite large... wich doesn't really work on me...

I have 2 G&B's they don't run large. My 42 T is right on.

The Legend pockets seem to vary in size a bit. Some of them seem too large to me. The flap looks great, however.

My advice is to call them if you have a question regarding sizing.

mimesis wrote:Currently I'm saving up to buy one of these, but I'm leaning a bit more towards the G&B... My only problem is that I'm quite a small dude (5'4" 120 lbs, size 36) and I'm under the impression that G&B run quite large... wich doesn't really work on me...

It is possible to have G&B send you a 36R to try on for instance. Then you can decide if it is the right cut for you, if not-send it back? My experience has been that for the most part, they are a true size.

Still waiting to hear from the USW-US made, Schott folks....this would be more of a 1 to 1 comparison....

CM wrote:I have 2 G&B's they don't run large. My 42 T is right on.

The Legend pockets seem to vary in size a bit. Some of them seem too large to me. The flap looks great, however.

What's the chest size of your G&B CM? A 42 should be about 22" armpit to armpit, like a common 'Medium'. I bet the G&B is bigger.
Obviously, everyone's idea of what's big and what's small will differ, but it's hard to deny that the Expedition runs large, at least in the chest size.
There's an Expedition for sale in the Bazaar, a 44T, with an armpit to armpit measure of 26 inches! That's huge! 52 inches around!
Someone with an actual 44 inch chest would have 8 inches of room in that jacket. It'd be a tent.
What's your actual chest size too, if I may ask? Mines 40" exactly, and my 40R G&B is 46" around. That's 6 inches of wiggle room, and in my
opinion, makes it a jacket that runs large. Looks great on, mind you, and I wouldn't expect an Indy jacket to look like a tight, fitted Bike jacket.

I'll mention this just as an example. I was just in a transaction with another member. I'd heard about the sizing issues, so I decided to try one size down, a 42R. It was not the best fit for me, so I sent it back. I emailed him recently, and he said that he too was going to get another G&B, this time a 44R. Different strokes, I guess. Personal preference as to how a person wants a jacket to fit means alot.

Body shapes are different too, I guess.
What might fit ok in the chest area may be too tight around the mid-section for example, so yeah, I can understand why people may need to 'size-up' sometimes.
I'm just pointing out the cold measurements that pretty much show the Expedition runs large, in my opinion. I would call 6 inches+ of added room 'large'.
Others may not. Large, mind you, not 'unwearable'. Mine looks fine!
CM's had his G&B for years If I recall correctly, mine's only two years old. Perhaps they've changed their sizing.

I've been trying to figure out where that 26" pit to pit measurement came from myself. I, too, own a 44T G&B. I just measured mine, and pit to pit is 24".

I figured out that they measured to the outside of the gusset, which is the added material that allows for more movement for the arm. That accounts for the extra 2 inches as it allows an extra inch in the pit and sleeve area, but is not added to the chest measurement.

So, excluding gusset, the pit to pit measurement on a 44T G&B is right at 24 inches.

Regards! Michaelson

I just found an old post where CM reports his G&B 42T as 24 inches across the chest. Same as your 44 Michaelson..odd.
Sizing must have changed. Regardless, 6 inches oversize is surely considered a 'full-cut', and in no way 'true-to-size'.

Michaelson wrote: I figured out that they measured to the outside of the gusset, which is the added material that allows for more movement for the arm. That accounts for the extra 2 inches as it allows an extra inch in the pit and sleeve area, but is not added to the chest measurement.

So, excluding gusset, the pit to pit measurement on a 44T G&B is right at 24 inches.

Regards! Michaelson

Hmmm... this just got me thinking... could it be they measure it like that at G&B?

I don't know. What throws people off is G&B is one of the few that has the gussets, so they add that additional leather measurement into the 'across the chest' measurement.

So, in the size 42, was it measured below the gussets, to the inner edge of the gussets, middle of the gussets, or the outside edge of the gussets?

Oh, and I meant I measured to the center of the pit below where the gussets attach to the body of the jacket itself. If you go higher and include the gusset in the measurement, it adds several inches to your measurement. To my thinking, the gussets shouldn't be included in that measurement, but I can see where someone could pick that up if they have their jacket laying flat on a bed to take the measurement.

Regards! Michaelson

CM wrote:I have 2 G&B's they don't run large. My 42 T is right on.

If you don't mind my asking, what's the total sleeve length (from center back) on the 42T? If I'm reading the size chart right, it should be 34 1/2 inches (33 1/2 for 42 +1 for tall) but that's... pretty short? Leather jackets in the Large/42-44 tall range usually seem to come with 36-37 inch sleeves...

Kevin Anderson wrote:I just found an old post where CM reports his G&B 42T as 24 inches across the chest. Same as your 44 Michaelson..odd.
Sizing must have changed. Regardless, 6 inches oversize is surely considered a 'full-cut', and in no way 'true-to-size'.

Terms like full-cut or true to size cause a lot of grief. I almost always buy size 42 (I have been that size for 20 years and have not put on weight since 1990) and the G&B fits as well as any of them. Some of my size 42 jackets are in fact roomier than my G&B. I'm going by my experience, not some theoretical 'true to size' measurement system.

How true to size are the US wings Legends? I understand they're military cut, so they must be snug... Also, I believe someone said that the Imported jackets are a bit roomier... can anyone confirm any of this?

CM wrote:

Kevin Anderson wrote:I just found an old post where CM reports his G&B 42T as 24 inches across the chest. Same as your 44 Michaelson..odd.
Sizing must have changed. Regardless, 6 inches oversize is surely considered a 'full-cut', and in no way 'true-to-size'.

Terms like full-cut or true to size cause a lot of grief. I almost always buy size 42 (I have been that size for 20 years and have not put on weight since 1990) and the G&B fits as well as any of them. Some of my size 42 jackets are in fact roomier than my G&B. I'm going by my experience, not some theoretical 'true to size' measurement system.

I hear you and I agree CM, such terms can be misleading. 'Military Cut' is another one that doesn't really mean much.
I guess my point has always been, know your own body measurements, know the measurements of the jacket, know the sort of fit you're after, and you shouldn't go wrong.
Nobody likes taking a stab in the dark and hoping something will fit, knowing a few basic measurements can prevent lots of wasted time.

mimesis wrote:How true to size are the US wings Legends? I understand they're military cut, so they must be snug... Also, I believe someone said that the Imported jackets are a bit roomier... can anyone confirm any of this?

These measurements will help in this process: suit coat size: 40, 42, 44, etc. (for any custom jacket); measure across the pits-seam to seam, back length and sleeve length. The Legend jackets are OTR sizes (S,M,L...), a slimmer cut jacket than the Hero, but not overly so...so it's not like only a very slim guy can fit in one.

Kevin Anderson wrote:I hear you and I agree CM, such terms can be misleading. 'Military Cut' is another one that doesn't really mean much.

Actually, I've found it to mean quite a bit, depending on which vendor you're dealing with.

For example, using USW, I've found military cut to be quite a bit snugger than their standard sizing. The Legend series is military cut, and is definitely a more tailored fit than the 'Hero' style, for example.

From my experience, it means more tailored to the mid section.

Regards! Michaelson

Hey All,

I actually bought that 44T G&B goat, and the fit is perfect. I also have a 44R G&B lamb which does run an inch or so smaller. My chest is right at 44 and I couldn't be happier with the fit. I'll have to go re-measure the pit to pit tonight to confirm, but I sure wouldn't say I'm swimming in it. Typically I'd say a 44 should be right around 50 inches, but the little extra room in this one works for the style of jacket.
Anybody interested in a really nice G&B Lamp Expo?

Brian

Hey Guys,

I double checked the 44T at lunch and it is definitely 26" pit to pit, laid out flat and smoothed, but not stretched. I checked the 44R as well and it's about 1/2 narrower. Surprisingly, the shoulders are about 1/2 wider on the R compared to the T (20.5 compared to 20). This may be age related or just manufacturing tolerance, the 44R is in lamb and several years old, the 44T is goat and nearly new.

Brian

I just re-read Michaelson's post about where and how he measured his 44T. I measured right at the bottom of the gusset on the body, not including any part of the actual gusset, still came up with 26". It does appear to flare out just below the gusset, and if I moved the measurement downward an inch or two, I might loose that extra inch.

Brian

Interesting... That would give the jacket about... 8 inches of room?

I wonder if this is only in larger sizes and different in smaller ones... Has anyone got one of these in say... a 38?

interbak wrote:I just re-read Michaelson's post about where and how he measured his 44T. I measured right at the bottom of the gusset on the body, not including any part of the actual gusset, still came up with 26". It does appear to flare out just below the gusset, and if I moved the measurement downward an inch or two, I might loose that extra inch.

Brian

It should be a seam to seam measurement, where the front panel, side panel and gusset meet.

mimesis wrote:Interesting... That would give the jacket about... 8 inches of room?

I wonder if this is only in larger sizes and different in smaller ones... Has anyone got one of these in say... a 38?

Do you mean a 36 or 38? My other thought would be possibly a Todd's Std. You should be able to get a good fit with that jacket, and they are also 'durable' but light weight. If I were in your shoes though, I might be tempted to order a 36R with no customizations and see if it fits. You can always return it? Ideally, you want a little extra room, to allow for the dreaded expansion...the global gut gluttony , too much pizza, well you decide?... or for layering, wearing sweaters and the like.

Regardless the vendor, just give them your specs and they will take care of you.

I'm thinking I will get the G&B (Eventually, as soon as I finish saving up) in 36 (Still don't know if I'll get it in short or regular, 'cause the sleeves seem to be quite short even in tall sizes).

Now... as to quality construction and Durability... It has been said the Expedition is built like a tank, but I wonder... Could the same be said about the US Wings Legend in Vintage Cowhide or in Bison? Has anyone here got both a G&B and a Legend?

The USW Import, antique cowhide Legend is a fine jacket. Looks distressed right out of the box, and for $200, it is one of the best deals I have seen in awhile. Again, S, M, L, though. Though it is cowhide, it is not weighty, tailored, and really captures that adventure vibe.

I've got both the Legend in bison and the Expedition in goatskin.

First...they both look screen accurate to me because they both look like jackets that Indy wears when I put them on...'nuff said about that?

Second, the cut on the jackets is different. The medium Legend fits me like a very neat cut utility jacket from the 30s would have fit me. Very period accurate look, clean cut, tight to the body and through the shoulders...very nice! And the leather is just striking...very soft and supple, but tough and rugged at the same time. Size is medium.

The G&B, is fantastic, too. Cut neat, also, but with some built-in leeway for freedom of movement. The gussets work really well (and should NOT be included in the chest measurement), the action pleats have got the added benefit of an action pleat in the lining as well...and elastic installed in the action back to boot...very nice, and very functional. For all that, it honestly wears (on me, at least) in a size 42 (admittedly on the edge of what fits me) like a Last Crusade jacket.

All in all, each jacket is fantastic in its own way. I'm sure a 40 with extra long sleeves would fit me almost exactly like I want a jacket to fit...but, I'm also quite happy with both my jackets as they are..

If I HAD to pick one, though...hands down it would be the G&B.

Hope that helps!

Regards!
Indydawg

mimesis wrote:I'm thinking I will get the G&B (Eventually, as soon as I finish saving up) in 36 (Still don't know if I'll get it in short or regular, 'cause the sleeves seem to be quite short even in tall sizes).

Now... as to quality construction and Durability... It has been said the Expedition is built like a tank, but I wonder... Could the same be said about the US Wings Legend in Vintage Cowhide or in Bison? Has anyone here got both a G&B and a Legend?

Well, whatever you get, you've got to....Post 'em UP!

...that's the deal! Promise!

Texan Scott wrote:

mimesis wrote:I'm thinking I will get the G&B (Eventually, as soon as I finish saving up) in 36 (Still don't know if I'll get it in short or regular, 'cause the sleeves seem to be quite short even in tall sizes).

Now... as to quality construction and Durability... It has been said the Expedition is built like a tank, but I wonder... Could the same be said about the US Wings Legend in Vintage Cowhide or in Bison? Has anyone here got both a G&B and a Legend?

Well, whatever you get, you've got to....Post 'em UP!

...that's the deal! Promise!

Of Course I will!

Actually... I may have something to post in a week or so, If I'm lucky... I should have been clear, S.A. is not a concern to me, it's actually more like a "plus". A couple of weeks ago I went to a leather artisan and took some photos of "A jacket you have seen on a famous movie by a certain archeologist...", I got measured, chose the leather... you guys know the deal. So, It should be ready in about a week or so. Once it gets here, I'll post the pictures for you guys to see.