Club Obi Wan

Hi guys, I'm going to order my new Wested jacket soon and I want it to be my perfect jacket (how many of you think so when ordering a jacket ? ). And I want you to help me.
First of all, it is not necessary to be SA. It will be ROLA jacket, because I like this pattern most (LC is too baggy, for me looks good in very distressed leather only and I want to have it in possibly darkest leather, TOD also doesn't work for me, because of pockets and flat collar)
I'm posting photos of me wearing my washed goat jacket from Wested, to help you see, what I'm talking about.

MOD EDIT Sorry, but the images had to be removed, as we have received reports froma few members that they have clicked on the photos and received virus/worm attacks from the site.

1) It needs to be slim fitted jacket, as I'm slim and tall guy. I think 4 inches of room in chest and 4 inches of room in waist should be fine, don't they? I have 37" chest and I wear 32 size jeans, so 41-42" in chest and 36-37" in waist. What do you think?

2) I don't like the collar in that WG jacket, it's too flat, as you can see it lays on the shoulders. I would like to increase a bit the length of collar stand and width of the collar, so it falls more straight rather than lays. Look at Nowak's jackets, collars fall straight down.

3) I'm thinking about raising the armholes a bit. When I'm raising my hands, the whole jacket raises, and there is squirrel effect (was bigger when the jacket had more room in chest). And maybe bigger gussets.

4) Have a look at the backpanel. Isn't the top of it too wide? I think so. Also the pleats stick out, you don't see it clearly in photos, but they do. Should gaps between backpanel and seams help? The top of the backpanel would be automatically narrower. And more narrow pleats, like 1.25" instead of 1.5" in the WG jacket?

5) I want to have bigger pockets, so I'm increasing size of them from 7.3" x 6.2" to 8" x 6.5" (like in my HH raiders). Length of jacket would be the same as this one, so 27" (26.3" at the moment, maybe it has shrunken, maybe Wested cut it shorter, I don't know, I haven't measured the jacket after I recived it.) And the 7.3" x 6.2" pockets look too small for me, especially on jacket of that length.

I'd like to avoid my (and not only my) problems with Wested's oversized jackets, so I'm going to give them exact measurements of my future jacket. Anything more I should pay attention for?

I gotta be honest, I think you are looking for more customization than Wested cares for. Odds are, you won't get everything you ask for. I can't tell you how many times Peter has posted to remind everyone that he doesn't do "laundry lists" of requests. A few customers seem to get lucky with it, but not many. That's not to slight Wested or Peter, but rather to point out that you may be asking a chef to bake. His official policy is that the only options you have are on his website.

If you are a size 37" in the chest, you would want to order a 38". The extra 4-5 inches are built into the jacket. Rola custom would most likely fit you best, as it is more slim fitting. Definitely gussets. Smaller pleat width. Measure the back length from the bottom of the collar stand to the end of the jacket. Give them your bucket list and see if they will comply and if so, how much extra they will charge. Usually the longer the list the more costly it will be. Also the infamous hidden snap at the bottom of the storm flap is a great idea for the Raiders style.

Thanks, but as you may remember, I ordered this ROLA jacket in 38 size and with gussets. What I got was jacket with 6" of room in chest, so rather no 'slimmer 80's cut'. Now I want to give them exact measurements to avoid that problem.

Chewie, maybe you're right, but I'm not asking about super SA specs list like some members here, I just want it to be slimmer to fit me better.

I would ask for size smaller and regular,not Long..what I can see from the pics,back is a bit long...?!

tomek9210 wrote:Thanks, but as you may remember, I ordered this ROLA jacket in 38 size and with gussets. What I got was jacket with 6" of room in chest, so rather no 'slimmer 80's cut'. Now I want to give them exact measurements to avoid that problem.

.

80's cut is ONLY a slimmer and tapered waist. chest and shoulder are the same as full cut.

Now I know that, but for ages people wrote here that 80's cut should have 2" of room in chest. For me it's slim. And I got jacket with 6" of room. That's baggy.
Marq, I'm 193cm tall (that's 6ft 4") and I don't think it's too long for me. The jacket covers the belt.

well, they are wrong. no 2 inch in chest. 80's is normal full cut chest with slim waist. standard is full cut chest/full cut waist.

tomek9210 wrote:Thanks, but as you may remember, I ordered this ROLA jacket in 38 size and with gussets. What I got was jacket with 6" of room in chest, so rather no 'slimmer 80's cut'. Now I want to give them exact measurements to avoid that problem.

Chewie, maybe you're right, but I'm not asking about super SA specs list like some members here, I just want it to be slimmer to fit me better.

Your other option would be to order a size down, but you need to consider that if this was the perfect jacket world and you had one made to exactly your specs., there would be no room for expansion. There will be a tendency to put on weight as you get older. A jacket that fits perfectly now may not fit that way in the future. Will there be enough room inside the jacket to wear a sweater, for instance. Much to consider.

Also, when I clicked on your first photo yesterday, my computer was attacked by a virus, worm, etc. Anyone else had that problem?

Im with Tex on this one. one size up in case for layering or the weight you will put on eventually. weight doesn't neccess' mean fat, it can be muscles as well...

You're right guys, that's why I wrote I will order jacket with 4" of room. I hope I will gain some weight, so I finally will be not as slim as pencil I'm not aiming for culturistic shape like you Holt, but few inches in chest would be fine.
Thanks everyone for the input!

OK!!