Thanks for the extensive advice. I finally managed to get through it all and compose a list of how I want my jacket.
I'm very open to final advice.
There are a few things that I think are already standard on the Custom 'ROLA' jacket? For example the slit inside pocket, tapered fit, smaller zip and pocket buttons at the end of the pocket flap? Redundant requests would be very nice to have removed, as the sheer number of requests are more likely to create confusion and errors.
Heres the list:
-ROLA custom pattern
80's cut
soft dark brown goatskin (washed?)
Black/gunmetal sliders with X-box stitching
One piped inside pocket on the left breast.
Collar ending in the middle of the storm flap, rounded top corner on the storm flap
pockets about 16cm wide and 20cm high, pocket flap height 7cm, located 5cm from the bottom, right pocket 4cm from the zipper seam and left pocket 3cm from the storm flap
Extra reinforced handwarmer/side entry pocket entry stitchings
No. 5 nickel zip with small zipper pull extending as low as possible without the zipper pull showing
Side strap length 22cm
Action pleat depth 3,5cm <-- same as bi-swing pleat?
Arm seam located one inch below the yoke seam
Tapered sleeves and back panel, backpanel extending all the way to the arm seam
No leather facing on the zipper
Slit inside pocket, NOT piped
I can't decide on the lining, if I should go with cotton/satin combination, or go with full cotton (based on the original that was examined).
I also have a few points of doubt, that I would like some advise to incorporate into my requests. Taken from the post further up this tread:
4.The straps were attached within the seam of the jacket, which runs a few inches from the hand warmer slit, i.e. they were not attached right next to the hand warmer slit as with my Wested. A reinforcing length of stitching ran approximately ¼ inch from the seam on the side towards the hand warmer slit.
5.The rings were attached under the seam like the Wested, but were much more flush with the edge of the rear panel, i.e. they were barely visible unless the bi-swing pleat were opened.
7.The overall side strap attachment is slightly above the center of the hand warmer slit opening, NOT level with the bottom of the opening as with my Wested.
8.The length of the bi-swing pleat ran ½ inch above the attachment of the ring attachment to the rear panel. As such, the bi-swing pleat on the Wested needs to be appropriately longer.
9.One big surprise - there were gussets under the arms! They were made up of two panels, each ¾ inch wide. Together they were shaped like an elongated eye.
10.The collar attachment to the storm flap was correct in basic configuration, but the Wested is off in scale. The storm flap on the original was 3/4 inch narrower, and the collar band was only ¾ inch wide vs. 1 1/8 on the Wested.
11.The bi-swing pleat was 1 ½ inches deep, vs. 1 inch on my Wested. The extra ½ inch makes a big difference in the appearance of the pleat.
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