Club Obi Wan

Hi guys,

Wondering if you can help me here.

I've read a lot of info saying that the predistressed cowhide totally soaks up the Pecards (because the surface has already been broken on the jacket) but that the new finish cowhide doesn't soak it up much at all.

Does the normal cowhide need Pecards initally or is better to wait until the jacket is worn in/worn down a bit first ?

cheers,
Steve

Actually, that's not QUITE correct. ANY leather will absorb Pecards...it's just knowing when to quit as the leather reaches saturation. My answer is always 'yes', initially treat your jacket once you receive it. In your case, I recommend using one light coating of standard Pecards....allow to totally soak in over night, then buff with a clean old cotton tee shirt, and you're good to go for the season, short of a completely soaking in a rainstorm. Regards. Michaelson

Will do!

Thanks a lot.

cheers,
Steve

And does that apply to ANY leather conditioner on the cowhide? Letap for example?

Actually, that's not QUITE correct. ANY leather will absorb Pecards...it's just knowing when to quit as the leather reaches saturation. My answer is always 'yes', initially treat your jacket once you receive it.

I have a couple of jackets that are seemingly Pecards-proof. One is my Dad's 50+ year old steerhide and the other is a horsehide jacket I received on eBay. My guess is that there is an additional coating on these jackets that prevents absorption (maybe a waterproofing?), but I have read that horsehide is almost waterproof itself

I was going to try to break down the eBay jacket coating with acetone and then try Pecards. Both of these jackets are old though and I hate to ruin them. They are also both black, if that matters. Any advice here?

Hi Rick,

I also have a horsehide jacket, although it's new. When I first got it, the jacket just repelled both the standard dressing and the jell. I then dosed a rag with the shoe oil and rubbed the jacket down with that a few times. It seemed to open the jacket up to further applications of the jell.

Start slowly with the oil; it is the active ingredient in the jell, and a little goes a long way. Pecard's recommends applying it with a rag, rather than pouring it directly on the jacket. Otherwise, you may stain the jacket. Also, it can really penetrate and soak the jacket through, so many light coats rather than one heavy coat.

My guess would be to stay away from the acetone unless you want to remove the color as well. Perhaps rubbing alcohol would be better?

Best to all,

plynck

This is what I do to my jackets and whips. I discovered this by accident, but it really works. I just lay out the standard Pecards in the sun. It turns into a liquid. Just gently and THINLY apply Pecards to the jacket. A little goes a LONG WAY. The combination of the Pecards being in a warm and liquid state really penetrates into the leather. I even tried this on my HH A-2. And wow, is it soft now. REally works great on whips.

But word of warning, a LITTLE goes a long way. That's another reason to use it. Because the application of Pecards is so thin, it won't weigh down the jacket with greasy, unabsorbed Pecards. The absorption is almost instaneous.

Try it...

-Sergei

Plynk & Sergei,

I use my "special" leather scented oil on my jackets when I treat them. You remember the stuff, Sergei? Actually, I use the oil on all of my jackets - including my authentic lamb. It doesn't go anywhere on these horsehides. I have tried plain and unscented in case there was something in the scent that I add that prevented absorption. No dice.

Just found a similar A-2 style jacket that I think is horsehide. It is stiff and heavy. I ripped the liner to ensure it was actually leather and not thick vinyl, I was so disgusted. This is a predistressed jacket and I thought maybe the company that made them treated the jacket after the predistressing.

I am so frustrated, it is not funny. The oil just sat on the jacket for 2 days.