Club Obi Wan

I'm posting this as a new thread, so I can try to get the forum's help and advice. This information originally appeared under Pyroxene's thread about "Econo-whip mods".... To begin with, Pyro had a swivel-handled whip (about 8-feet, I would guess), that he wanted to modify so that it would at least be more utilitarian and not so much a semi-expensive decorative prop.

Pyroxene originally wrote:
1.) I cut the fall down to about 1 inch wide as suggested in Mark Allen's video. Razorblade Utility Knife $2.50.

2.) I removed the popper that came with it and added to the fall by adding a leather boot lace from Wal Mart $0.87.

3.) I added a smaller more flexable popper to the end of the fall. I used masonary string from the hardware dept at Wal Mart $3.00. (Ignore the big knot in the center of the popper. That happened during pratice. I have found that it's best to tie a knot every 3 inches or so.)

4.) I added a woodscrew to the knot of the handle to stop the swivel. Free, found one in a wall where a mirror used to hang.

Increasing the performance of your whip for under $10....priceless.


Pyro,

As I can't afford anything resembling a real whip, I've settled (probably because of Maryon's new 6-foot Strain in the house) to at least make do with an old 8-foot swivel-handled whip which I received as a gift from a friend back nearly 20 years ago. I've been trying to consult the archives about how to make this useable (it turns out mine never even had a cracker on it--I had been trying to crack it for years with nothing but a fall!). I've known that I need to stop the swivel action, and that a screw was needed, but exactly where did you insert it in the knot?. Were you able to tuck it underneath one of the plaits? I've trimmed the width of my fall down to no more than the narrowest width of the plaited portion, but with the addition of the leather boot lace on yours, how long is the overall "fall area" on yours now (fall + lace)? Also, how long is the cracker?

I've been practicing with this beast (pre-screw, post-fall narrowing and cracker addition), and the best I've been able to do is a clean circus crack which cracks louder behind me than in front (and neither very loud). My reverse is also (I think) good from a form standpoint, but has yet to make any sound beyond a dull leathery thud. Having now watched the Mark Allen video a good number of times, I think I'm using OK physical technique, but this piece doesn't crack worth a beaver's ###. Pyro, Sergei, Minnesota, any/everyone--HELP!

I know you get what you pay for in a whip, but what if you can't pay anything?!

Regards,

Henry Jones, Sr.

PM sent.

The Mark Allen videos are good for technique. I have them both. But I have to say my cracking improved leaps and bounds when I got Paul Stenhouse's DVD. I HIGHLY recommend it.

As for fixing up your whip:

1) Pyro said that the screw was inserted into the handle knot and he worked it between the strands so that the strands covered it back up when it was all the way in. be careful not to get a screw that is too long and will come out the other side!

2) The total length of the fall shouldn't really ever be any longer than 30" or so, although different people have different preferences. I like mine about 24" on a whip that is 6' or shorter. The cracker should be @8" long in total, but again, different strokes for different folks.

Hope that helps!!

The_Edge wrote:PM sent.

Edge:

PM replied to. Much obliged.

Regards,

Henry Jones, Sr.

PropReplicator wrote:The Mark Allen videos are good for technique. I have them both. But I have to say my cracking improved leaps and bounds when I got Paul Stenhouse's DVD. I HIGHLY recommend it.

As for fixing up your whip:

1) Pyro said that the screw was inserted into the handle knot and he worked it between the strands so that the strands covered it back up when it was all the way in. be careful not to get a screw that is too long and will come out the other side!

2) The total length of the fall shouldn't really ever be any longer than 30" or so, although different people have different preferences. I like mine about 24" on a whip that is 6' or shorter. The cracker should be @8" long in total, but again, different strokes for different folks.

Hope that helps!!

PropReplicator:

Thank yo so much for the tips! Between Maryon and I, we'll send off for the Stenhouse DVD ASAP!

Thanks also for the additional detail. This clarifies things greatly for me. You and The Edge have saved me! Thanks also to Pyro and Minnesota for getting me started down this road. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!

Beyond regards,

Henry Jones, Sr.

I put the screw here.



It was just a guess on the first whip but it worked a second whip I owned too. You have to muscle the strands apart slightly as you sink the screw head below the surface of the strands. This whip is now my "concrete or rain" whip that I will pratice with.

Pyro.

Henry Jones Sr. wrote:As I can't afford anything resembling a real whip, I've settled (probably because of Maryon's new 6-foot Strain in the house) to at least make do with an old 8-foot swivel-handled whip which I received as a gift from a friend back nearly 20 years ago.

I TOLD him he could use mine when I'm not using it....

Henry Jones Sr. wrote:Between Maryon and I, we'll send off for the Stenhouse DVD ASAP!

Already done...before you even wrote that post!
Regards--Maryon

I finally got my whip to work!!!!

I have an 8 ft Mexican, swivel handle whip, and I have never been able to crack it before. After reading these boards, I learned I was missing the cracker (duh), and that the swivel handle was affecting the whip. I'm currently using kitchen twine for my cracker (until my special order at the feed store comes in) and yesterday, I put some small nails in the top knot to stop the spinning. I'd use a screw, but there's a metal shaft running through the handle, and I would end up hitting it.

Success! I was able to do an over-the-head crack on the first try! Now, much to my wife's dismay, I've been playing for hours!