Club Obi Wan

I just noticed that Todd has updated his website and the revolver is back in stock.
I had read somewhere that there were two versions of this gun used in Raiders (one with the crest on the handle).
Can anyone tell me if this offering is accurate and a good buy?
I would rather have a metal airsoft model rather than a plastic kit, but would get a plastic kit (like the one WE offers) only if this airsoft version is not very SA.

there's a thread going around where a guy made his more SA and it looked REALLY REALLY good when he was finished. Stock out of the box is a close version, but nowhere near as accurate as the new one he's got posted on the threads that should be ready soon (search Bapty PFC)

The suitcase S&W is spot on, but he's out of stock of those apparently....

The airsoft version is made in Japan. I would prefer a gas powered airsoft version with metal parts - but if he has one like that, more accurate in the works then I will hold out.
Any links to that thread?

Todd's comin Bapty: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=44000&p=646053&hili ... fc#p646053

Here's the thread for the great modification job:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=32283&hilit=todd+s+revolver

Any video of this thing being fired??

I'd wait for Todd's actual HE2 airsoft. It should be around the same price as his current offerings, but won't require the modifications needed to make the "Cairo" airsoft look the part.

Personally, I think the M10 "suitcase" pistol might superficially look the part better, there's really no replacing how satisfying the larger framed actually feels in your hand.

WinstonWolf359 wrote:I'd wait for Todd's actual HE2 airsoft. It should be around the same price as his current offerings, but won't require the modifications needed to make the "Cairo" airsoft look the part.

Personally, I think the M10 "suitcase" pistol might superficially look the part better, there's really no replacing how satisfying the larger framed actually feels in your hand.

Agree 100% on EVERY point! The Bapty can't be beat. I saw the prototype when I was in his shop and it's something to hold (and BEHOLD) without a doubt (gave me one of those warm fuzzy feelings

Todds M1917 seems like a great deal at $219 for a blank firing gun. I have just one question about this thing. Now the caps for sale on his site are for an auto loader, does the M1917 come with the moon clips for these or is the gun made to fit them. It reads on the site that the S&W 1917 was precision engineered to use these exact caps. Just wondering

John

John Vaughan wrote:Todds M1917 seems like a great deal at $219 for a blank firing gun. I have just one question about this thing. Now the caps for sale on his site are for an auto loader, does the M1917 come with the moon clips for these or is the gun made to fit them. It reads on the site that the S&W 1917 was precision engineered to use these exact caps. Just wondering

John

The caps he has are for this particular cap gun. The gun includes the fake bullets. The gun is awesome and I am glad I waited for this particular replica of this gun. I have yet to fire it with the caps yet. There is a small hole in the back of each bullet for the caps. I can take some pictures when I get home of my S&W 1917 I got from Todd, awesome cap gun.

IndianaChris

Cool, can't wait for the pics, thanks Bro.

John

Here is a few pictures I took this morning, sorry for the delay, my camera's battery, I forgot to charge it. Here ya go.








IndianaChris

Cool, thank you very much for those, I think it's time to give Todd a visit!

John

I got one as well Nice replica. I darkened the grips, weathered the grip 'coin', removed the orange and added a little flame scoring to the end and it looks awesome.



You'll be happy with it!

jd, how did you darken the grips? I might put up a tutorial on your technique (with your permission, of course). It looks really good!

Puppetboy wrote:jd, how did you darken the grips? I might put up a tutorial on your technique (with your permission, of course). It looks really good!

That would be so cool, they do look great.

John

Thanks guys

Todd, sure, post away! What I didn't wasn't that hard and turned out well enough.

I popped out the S&W coins and little brass greeblie for the screw that holds the grips together. Take a brown 'woodish' color spray paint (I used Rust-oleum flat brown) and give it a couple good coats. After that dries, mix up a black acrylic wash and give it a wash coat. Keep giving it acrylic wash coats (letting it dry between each coat) until you get it to the darkness you desire. You can put a flat or gloss clear coat after all that dries if you'd like. I did a flat, but didn't like the overall finish that it gave. It looked too hazy.

I started a thread (viewtopic.php?f=4&t=46315) when I got the replica to see if anyone had any good ideas. Moviematt suggested something I'm probably going to try. Here's what he suggested:

moviematt1989 wrote:If your still itching for a woodish look, try re-doing the paint job like so

::

do a black underlayer.

Then with the correct brown paint, mix with tamyia paint thinner, very conservatively, then apply brown paint, let stand for 40 seconds, then whip with a tissue or brush to have the black undertones come through. then seal it with a clear coat. It's a modeling technique I've used and found works well.

Sounds like a great idea

For the coins, I took a q-tip with brass black on it, and rubbed it on there a little (like 5-10 seconds) then washed it off with water. I didn't want to leave it on TOO long since I didn't want it completely black. Got it all to the darkness I was happy with, then took 2000 grit sand paper and buffed off the raised parts. Just push all the brass bits back into place, and rescrew on the grips. It really makes the gun look better, bizarrely enough.

Hello.

It is the photograph of the gun which I remodeled.
These made it from the gun of the same model.
It is the gun of the toy.

I am poor at English. I'm sorry.

The lower photograph is a premium.

I sharpen resin and mold it.

I mold it with epoxy resin-related clay.

I glue a front site together.
It processes others.

It processes the clip.

I paint mat black.

I put on the bullet of the dummy.

I can put it on when I do processing to move a cylinder forward.

I mold a grip. If molding is completed, I paint it.
I remodeled it in this way.English is clumsy, and I'm sorry.

First and for most you're english is just fine bro. Very good job with the gun, love how ya made the moon clips.



John

Hello John.
Thank you for comment.
Probably I will think that it was an accident to have had oneself if there is comment from nobody.
Because the reason is because it cannot watch a genuine gun in Japan.
Thank you John.

moto

Moto,

WOW! What a great job! You have great painting skills! I love the dark rust effect on the modified revolver. How did you accomplish that so realistically? How did you move the cylinder forward to allow for the half moon clips?

You should be very proud of your work!

Hello Puppetboy.
Thank you for asking you a question.
About a cylinder.

A cylinder works forward when I sharpen two places of the part of the seal of the photograph.

I thicken the part of the seal of the photograph for dimensions same as a cylinder having moved.

I sharpen the part of the seal of the photograph and flatten it with a cylinder.
The gun operates definitely hereby.

About rust.
I use water-based paint for the wood painting.It is semitransparent paint.
For attention, dry time is long.
With the oily paint, the paint which I painted earlier begins to melt.

It is worry whether my clumsy English comes.

moto

Moto,

Your English is good! You are doing great. Thanks for the reply and the pictures!

Puppetboy wrote:Moto,

Your English is good! You are doing great. Thanks for the reply and the pictures!

See I'm not the only one, Be proud you can speak more than one language, your one up on me!

John

Thank you Puppetboy.

Thank you John.

I can get to know with you and feel very honored.

Very nice work, moto! You've produced two of the most accurate-looking Indy revolver replicas I've seen here on the forums - your painting/weathering techniques and modeling skills are top-notch.

I'm curious as to you guys removed the oragne piant off the front of the barrel, was it removed and the same finish as the rest of the gun the same?

And you english is just fine you've done nice work.

Croft

Thank you Solent MKIII.
I have you praise it and feel very honored.



Thank you Indiana Croft.
I answer it in the English range that can understand me. If it is a wrong answer, I'm sorry.

We do not have the orange painting to the toy gun sold in Japan.
A question judges it about a process of the painting and answers it.

I wipe off a dirt and fat with alcohol.
I dry it well after painting silver paint for guns.
I paint atrament for guns thinly next.
I polish it with abrasives for cars after drying.I repeat this process depending on need.
The part of a cylinder and the barrel must be gun blue.
However, there was not paint of good gun blue.
Therefore I put paint for plural cars and painted it.
Finally I study hard and give luster.
The process after it is a handwriting process with the writing brush.

moto

Wow, your really into this, to bad you can't do this and send em back. Oh well. Your work by the way is outstanding.

Croft

Hey moto, pleased to meet you and the honor is mine.
John